British Columbia and Alberta CLIMBING/FLYING TRIP REPORTS




This page provides links to my climbing trip reports in British Columbia and Alberta. Since much of my life I have lived less than 50 miles from the BC-WA border, I've climbed numerous times in the Canadian Rockies, Selkirks, Bugaboos, Valhallas, Squamish, Coast Mountains, and North Cascades; but there is so much terrain up there and still so much more to do. I've also gone on a few incredible aerial photography adventures encompassing spectacular areas of the Canadian Rockies, Columbia Mountains, and Coast Mountains. 
You can access the trip reports by clicking on the interactive map below, scrolling to the list below that, or using the sidebar to the left.

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KEY:
ROUTES: Favorites are in red.
LINKS: SummerFallWinterSpring conditions.

BUGABOOS (BC)
SUMMIT ROUTE DATE / LINK
Aerial Adventure
• Bugaboos in a Day (winter aerial photography adventure)
Bugaboos, Valhallas, and more!
Mar'13
Alpine Climbs
• BUGABOO Spire 1. Kain Route (5.6, 1500')
2. NE Ridge (5.8, 1500')
1. Aug'06
2.  Aug'06
     Jul'16
• HOUND'S TOOTH NW Face (Bugaboo Glacier Route) (3rd) Aug'07
• PIGEON Spire West Ridge (5.4, 1500') Aug'06
 SNOWPATCH Spire 1. Snowpatch Route (aka SE Corner aka Wiessner's Route) (5.8, 1500')
2.
Sunshine Crack (5.11-, 900')
3. Surf's Up (aka SW Ridge) (5.9, 700')

1.  Aug'07
2.  Jul'16
3.  Jul'16
• SOUTH HOWSER Tower Beckey-Chouinard (5.10, 2000') Aug'07 
 Jul'16

CANADIAN ROCKIES (BC and AB)
SUMMIT ROUTE DATE / LINK
Aerial Adventure
• Airplane Camping & Aerial Photography in the Canadian Rockies (and nearby) (BC/AB) Mt. Robson, Kakwa, Columbia Icefield, Valhallas, Bugaboos, Mt. Assiniboine
Sep'11
• Airplane Camping & Aerial Photography - a Grand Canadian Mountain Tour (BC/AB) Sir Donald, Sir Sandford, Adamants, Tonqun Valley, Edith Cavell, Fryatt, Hoker, Bras Croche, Clemenceau, Tsar, Bryce, Forbes, Lyell, Assiniboine, Louis, Temple, Bugaboos, Leaning Towers, Valhallas, and more
May'12
Alpine Climbs
• CASTLE Mountain (AB) Super Brewers Buttress (5.9, 2000', 14-21p) = Ultra Brewers + Brewers Buttress Aug'17
• EDITH CAVELL (AB) East Ridge (5.3, 5000') Aug'17
 GRAND SENTINEL (AB) 1. Cardiac Arête (5.10d, 350', 4p)
2. South Face (5.9, 350', 4p)
1.  Aug'17
2.  Aug'17
• Mt. HUBER (BC/AB) Huber Ledges to NE Ridge (II, 3rd) Aug'10
• HUNGABEE Mtn (BC/AB) West Ridge (III, 5.4) Aug'10
• Mt. KIDD (AB) The Fold (5.8, 1300', 11p) Aug'17
• Mt. LOUIS (AB) Homage to the Spider (5.10a, 1000', 6p) Aug'17
• TAKAKKAW Falls (BC) Takakkaw Falls (5.7, 12p, 1260') Aug'17
 Mt. TEMPLE (AB) 1. Greenwood-Jones aka Northeast Buttress (V, 5.10, 4500')
2. 
SW Ridge (I, 3rd)
1.  Aug'17
2.  Aug'10
• YUKNESS Mtn (BC) W/NW Side (I, 3rd) Aug'10

CANADIAN CASCADES (BC)
SUMMIT ROUTE DATE / LINK
• The DEACON
North to south (3rd) Jul'16
• ELK Mountain
snow-covered trail Jan'19
• The FLATIRON
 snow-covered trail Jan'19
• LLAMA Peak
 snow-covered trail, traverse from Zupjok Peak Mar'19
• LES CORNES Peak
Springbok Arête (/w direct start) (5.11a, 1600', ~13p) Aug'16
• NORTH NESAKWATCH Spire
SW Ridge (5.9, 700') Aug'16
• SOUTH NESAKWATCH Spire
Dairyland (5.10d, 700')
Aug'16
• Mt. REXFORD
West Ridge (5.5, 700') Aug'16
 Mt. SLESSE
NE Buttress (5.9-10a, 2500') Sep'07 
 Jul'17


• SNOW CAMP Mountain
snow-covered Skyline trail Nov'18
• Mt. THURSTON
snow-covered trail, traverse from Elk Mountain Jan'19
• WINDY JOE Mountain / Fire Lookout
 snow-covered trail Feb'19
• YAK Peak
Yak-Check (5.10a, 1500', 10-14p) Jul'17
• ZOA Peak
 snow-covered trail Feb'19
• ZUPJOK Peak
 snow-covered trail Mar'19

CHEHALIS RANGE (BC)
SUMMIT ROUTE DATE / LINK
• VIENNESE-CLARKE Traverse
East to West (5.8, 4+ km ridgeline) Jul'17

COAST MOUNTAINS (BC)
SUMMIT ROUTE DATE / LINK
Aerial Adventure
• Mt. Waddington & Company Aerial Photography Adventure Waddington, Combatant, Tiedmann, Asperity, Serras, Bell, Queen Bess, Homathko Icefield, Grenville, Bute, and more!
Mar'12
Alpine Climbs
• Mt. MATIER East Ridge (snowy low 5th) Oct'07
• MOUSE'S TOOTH Mighty Mouse (5.11a, 8p) Aug'18

SELKIRKS (BC)
SUMMIT ROUTE DATE / LINK
• Mt. SIR DONALD NW Arête (5.2) Aug'06
• SIR DONALD RANGE Traverse  MACDONALD - AVALANCHE - EAGLE - UTO - SIR DONALD - TERMINAL (5.8, ~12km ridgeline, 2.5 days) Aug'18

SKAHA BLUFFS (BC)
SUMMIT ROUTE DATE / LINK
• SKAHA BLUFFS Climbing
1. A weekend at Skaha: Preface, Assholes of August, Doctor Crow, Malpractice, Grin and Bear It, Flying Flowers, 'Spro Dog, Assistor, Sainthood, Villainous, Supercharger, Black Acid
2. Memorial Day weekend at Skaha: Short Claim Jumpers, White Knuckle Express, Profession Belay Slaves, Grassy Glades, Brilliant Pebbles, Let's Get Ready to Rumble, I'm Not Too Sure, Still Under the Moon, Neddy Seagoon, Tan, Tethera, Ready to Strike, Easy Prey, Rattle and Hum, Cytotoxic, Sidewinder, Bite Me Not, Tree Amigos, Toejam, Banana Caliente, Batgirl, Nemesis, Danceannette, Double Exosure, Basement Abortion, Lichen in My Bellybutton, Bolt Wars, Granola Bar, All Along the Watchtower, Driza-Bone, Black Widow, Conductress on the Number 19 Pitch 1

* Other routes I've climbed at Skaha
1.  Sep'18
2.
  May'19

 2006

SQUAMISH (BC)
SUMMIT / AREA ROUTE DATE / LINK
 The CHIEF 1. APRON TO FIRST PEAK LINK-UP: Rambles + Diedre + Boomstick Crack + (lower) Squamish Buttress + Butt Lite (5.9, 18p) 
2. APRON TO FIRST PEAK LINK-UPRock On (10c, 4p) + Squamish Buttress (10c, 5p)
3. APRON TO FIRST PEAK LINK-UP: St. Vitus' Dance / South Arête + Karen's Math + Memorial Crack + Squamish Buttress (5.9-10c, 13p)
4. APRON TO SECOND PEAK LINK-UP: Banana Peel + Boomstick Crack + Ultimate Everything (5.10b or 5.9 A0, 20p) 
5. BASE TO SECOND PEAK: Angel's Crest (10c, 13p) 
6. 
BASE TO SECOND PEAK LINK-UP: Borderline (10d, 6p) + (upper) Angel's Crest (10a, 13p) 
7. BASE TO BELLYGOOD LEDGE: Grand Wall (11a A0, 10p)
8. BASE TO TOP OF TANTALUS WALL: Milk Road (11a A0, 9p) 
9. BASE TO THIRD PEAK LINK-UP: New Life (11b, 5p) + Parallel Passages (10b, 6p)
10. BASE TO BELLYGOOD LEDGE: Sunset Strip (10d, 12p) 
11. BASE TO FIRST PEAK LINK-UP: Sunset Strip + Upper Black Dyke + Mr. Ciechanowski + Ladies First (5.9-10d, 18p)
12. FLUFFY KITTEN WALL: The Wonderful Thing About Tiggers (11a or 10c A0, 7p)
1.  May'19
2.  May'16
3.  Jun'17
4.  Jun'06 
5. 
 May'14/ May'19/May'19
6. 
 May'17
7. 
 May'07/ Jun'14/ May'16
8.  May'15
9.  Aug'18
10.
  May'15
11.  May'19
12.  Jul'17

 OTHER Multipitch Cragging on the CHIEF, SLHANAY/SQUAW, The PAPOOSE, The MALAMUTE, SHANNON Falls, GALAXY Buttress * Other multipitch routes on my Squamish page with no trip reports:
- Birds of Prey
- Blazing Saddles
- Bottom Line, The
- Bulletheads East
- Calculus Crack 
- Chewbacca
- Diedre
- Enlightened
- Exasperator
- Great Drain, The

- Great Game, The
- Grub Street Complex
- Hairpin
- High Plains Drifter
- Krimo Gold
- Long Time No See
- Milk Run
- Over the Rainbow
- Peasant's Route
- Quagmire Crack link-up
- Read Between the Lines
- Right Wing

- Skywalker
- Slot Machine

- Snake
- Star Chek
- Sunblessed
- Sunshine Breakfast
Unfinished Symphony
- Upper Tantalus Wall
 2006-2019

VALHALLAS (BC)
SUMMIT ROUTE DATE / LINK
Aerial Adventure
• Bugaboos in a Day (winter aerial photography adventure)
Bugaboos, Valhallas, and more!
Mar'13
Alpine Climbs
• ASGARD South Face (Left) (5.8+) Aug'09
 GIMLI 1.  South Ridge (5.8+)
2.  NE Buttress (5.6)
1.  Aug'09
2.  Aug'09
• GLADSHEIM West Ridge Trieme Wall (5.6) Aug'09
• NISELHEIM East Ridge (5.7) Aug'09

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