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Mt. LOUIS Route: Kain Route (5.8, 15p) or Gmoser Route (5.9, 15p) or Homage to the Spider (5.10a, 6p)

Category: British Columbia/Alberta      Trip Report #xxx
Partner: xxx
Rock Type: Limestone
Summit Elev: 2,667 m / 8,750 ft

xxx



TRIP REPORT TEMPLATE
for when I climb this route






















INTRO

Mt. Louis is an impressive tower of Palliser limestone towering above Banff to the northwest. Unlike many summits in the Rockies, there is no walk-up to the top. This is a peak you have to climb. THough there are many routes on Mt. Louis, most of the climbing activity is concentrated on three routes: Kain Route, Gmoser Route, and Homage to the Spider.

I'd wanted to climb Mt. Louis ever since I flew past it doing aerial photography with John Scurlock in May 2012.


Kain Route (5.8, 15p)
The original route on Mount Louis, put up in a very casual manner when Kain was accompanying MacCarthy and some friends on a "day's picnic to view the scenery." Begins on the northeast face, traverses by a short rappel onto the southeast face, and finished up a series of corners and ribs directly to the summit. Most of the route is fourth class and easy fifth, with a few very short sections of 5.5 or 5.6. 

OVERLAY



PHOTOS


Photos:
Photo descriptions:
Approach 
xxx
1.    
1. xxx
Pitch 
1
xxx

2. xxx

Pitch 
2
5.x
   
3. xxx
Pitch 
3
5.x
   
4. xxx
Pitch 
4
5.x
   
5. xxx
Pitch 
5
5.x
   
5. xxx
Pitch 
6
5.x
   
5. xxx
Pitch 
7
5.x
   
5. xxx
Pitch 
8
5.x
   
5. xxx
Pitch 
9
5.x
   
5. xxx
Pitch 
10
5.x
   
5. xxx
Pitch 
11
5.x
   
5. xxx
Pitch 
12
5.x
   
5. xxx
Pitch 
13
5.xxxxx
   
5. xxx
Pitch 
14
5.xxxxx
   
5. xxx
Pitch 
15
5.xxxxx
   
5. xxx
Top! 
xxx
   
13. xxx
Descent 
10 single rope rappels from bolted anchors on N side of peak.
   
13. xxx




Gmoser Route (5.9, 15p)
This route climbs the southeast face of the peak, starting on slabs to a prominent corner, and then finishing on the best pitches of the Kain Route to the top. Ths route is one of the best moderate alpine rock routes in the Banff area, the rock is typically clean and reasonably consistent at 5.5-5.6 except for the steep corner system in the lower third. 

OVERLAY



PHOTOS


Photos:
Photo descriptions:
Approach 
xxx
1.    
1. xxx
Pitch 
1
5.7

2. xxx

Pitch 
2
5.5
   
3. xxx
Pitch 
3
5.5
   
4. xxx
Pitch 
4
5.6
   
5. xxx
Pitch 
5
5.9
   
5. xxx
Pitch 
6
5.6
   
5. xxx
Pitch 
7
5.6
   
5. xxx
Pitch 
8
5.6
   
5. xxx
Pitch 
9
5.6
   
5. xxx
Pitch 
10
5.5
   
5. xxx
Pitch 
11
5.6
   
5. xxx
Pitch 
12
5.5
   
5. xxx
Pitch 
13
5.0
   
5. xxx
Pitch 
14
5.8
   
5. xxx
Pitch 
15
5.7
   
5. xxx
Top! 
xxx
   
13. xxx
Descent 
10 single rope rappels from bolted anchors on N side of peak.
   
13. xxx









Homage to the Spider (5.10a, 6p)
This climb ascends a prominent system of corners on the steep face on the east side of the NE ridge of the mountain, offering 6 pitches of steep climbing on some of the best rock found on the mountain. 

OVERLAY



PHOTOS


Photos:
Photo descriptions:
Approach 
xxx
1.    
1. xxx
Pitch 
1
5.9

2. xxx

Pitch 
2
5.9
   
3. xxx
Pitch 
3
5.8
   
4. xxx
Pitch 
4
5.10a
   
5. xxx
Pitch 
5
5.9
   
5. xxx
Pitch 
6
5.6
   
5. xxx
Top! 
xxx
   
13. xxx
Descent 
10 single rope rappels from bolted anchors on N side of peak.
   
13. xxx