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AUG
14
2018

MOUSE'S TOOTH Route: Mighty Mouse (5.11a, 8p)

Category: British Columbia/Alberta      Trip Report #311
Partner: Chris Cox
Rock Type: Granite
Elev:
Summit: ~1900 m / 6230 ft; Top of Pitch 8: ~1800m / 5900 ft

Some of the best granite splitters I've climbed in the alpine.


INTRO

It seemed like I couldn't go climbing in WA or BC without hearing someone mention this climb called "Mighty Mouse". After about the third partner in a row to comment that this was "the best crack climb ever" (in the area), I decided I must check it out. Established circa 2011, Mighty Mouse climbs up the east face of Mouse's Tooth just northwest of Joffre in the Coast Range (about 1.5 hours drive north of Squamish). The climb features pitch after pitch of laser cut granite splitters in the 5.10-5.11- range, on clean stone in a beautiful alpine setting.

Finally I found a partner who had not yet climbed it and was psyched to get on it. Chris and I climbed Mighty Mouse as the first day of a three-day trip to the Squamish area. We agreed that the route is excellent and lives up to every bit of its hype. 

The following page gives a trip report for Mighty Mouse. What a Mice climb. 

(If you are wondering why the lighting in the photos looks a bit flat, it's because of smoke/haze from forest fires in BC...)


TIME STATS

Hike to base: ~2 hours
Climb: ~6 hours
Rappel route: ~2.5 hours (we lost an hour by trying to rap to anchors at top of P1, could not pull rope)
Hike to car: ~ 2 hours
Total car-to-car: ~13 hours


MAPS



ROUTE OVERLAY



PITCH BY PITCH PHOTOS

Photos:
Photo descriptions:
Approach
Approach involves a short drive of a logging road off HWY 99 between Pemberton and Lillooet, and a couple of hours of hiking to the base of the route. A pleasantly moderate approach for an alpine-ish climb. See the mountianproject description for details.
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1. Bridge on road just after turning off HWY 99.
2. Starting hike from end of road.
3. The path is flagged and easy to follow.
4. In the upper basin. Mouse's Tooth is at the head of the basin on the left.
5. Approaching Mouse's Tooth.
6. Zoomed in on splitter crack systems on upper headwall. Mighty Mouse just follows one of these. 


Pitch 
1
5.10c. Climb the left arete. A couple of bolts. Steep and bouldery climbing. 
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7. Pitch 1 climbs the arete.
8. There are a few bolts on Pitch 1.


Pitch 
2
5.10a. Climb the face just right of the left arete on left skyline. A couple of bolts. Continue up vegetated ledges to a bolted anchor.
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9. Pitch 2 continues up the arete and then goes up easy terrain to the base of the steeper headwall.
10. A splitter on the left arete, left of Mighty Mouse. Viewed from anchors at top of Pitch 2. Seems like there is lots of potential for routes on this feature.



Pitch 
3
5.9+. Traverse right, go up, stem between a pillar and corner, and climb splitter. 
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11. Looking down Pitch 3.
12. Another crack system off to the left of Mighty Mouse.


Pitch 
4
5.10d. Start in crack just right of belay, eventually moving left into twin finger cracks. Crux is near the top of the double cracks.
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13. Chris starting up Pitch 4.
14. And the splitters have officially begun.
15. Double splitters.


Pitch 
5
5.10d. Climb splitter to left of belay. Crux is the steep off-finger start but then crack eases to pure fun. When even with roofs, traverse right (5.8) under roof on hand and foot rails and no pro.
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16. The steep splitter that starts Pitch 5. It starts as off-fingers (0.5-size, the 10d crux), then widens to 0.75, then 1, then 2, then 3.
17. Looking down midway up Pitch 5. Yep, splitter.
18. The airy 5.8 traverse at the top of Pitch 5. I got in a couple of cams that were unlikely to hold a fall.


Pitch 
6
5.10a. Move right off belay and pull roof and climb the 3-inch splitter for 30M. At least triple #3s are nice to have.
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19. Me pulling over the roof at the start of Pitch 6, and seeing....
20. ....a 30-m 3-inch splitter.
21. Looking down the Pitch 6 splitter awesomeness. 

22. Chris at the top of the 3-inch splitter. There is a bolted station and a nice ledge here. Pitches 6-7 can be combined into a rope-stretching lead.
23. You can continue and link Pitches 6+7, but this belay ledge at the top of the 3-inch splitter between the two sections is too tempting. The route is full of nice ledges like this.


Pitch 
7
5.11a. Climb up the finger crack above. Crux is near end as finger crack flares.
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24. The crux of Pitch 7 is at the end where the finger crack flares.


Pitch 
8
5.11-. Thin slightly-flaring right-trending crack/seam up steep slab. This is the crux of the route, and a heady lead. Pro is tricky, but small offset nuts/RPs work well.
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25. Looking up Pitch 8.
26. The climbing on this pitch is face climbing around this seam. The seam takes good offset nuts.
27. Looking down the seam.


To the top....
~5.8. The steep headwall ends and five easier lower angle pitches lead to summit. Most parties rappel from here.
28.  28. Looking up above Pitch 8. Most parties rap from here.


Descent
From top of Pitch 8, rap the route (bolted anchors) with double ropes as follows:
 1. Top of P8.
 2. Top of P7.
 3. Top of P5.
 4. Top of P2. (do NOT rap to top of P1, instead rap towards gully)
 5. Bolted station above gully.
I am not sure what the rap situation is above Pitch 8.
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29. Rap anchor at top of Pitch 2. Rappel towards gully rather than towards the anchors at the top of Pitch 1. (We rappelled to the top of Pitch 1, and could not pull the rope. )
30. The final rappel to the ground. This is off a bolted anchor midway between the Pitch 2 anchors and the gully floor.