Elev: 100-2,000 ft / 30-600 m
Rock Type: Granite
2006 - 2018


Squamish is a world-class climbing destination, featuring everything from cragging to 1000-foot multipitch granite climbing right off the road. Squamish is a mere 2 hour drive from my home, and I try to make it my go-to (whenever it's dry) weekend destination in the spring. Even so, I've only scratched the surface there.

The Grand Wall on The Chief, one of THE routes at Squamish.

Left: View towards Squamish from high up on the Chief (taken on 2007 climb of The Grand Wall).
Right: One of many Squamish crack pitches (do you recognize this popular crack climb?).

This page gives a list of all of the climbs I've done at Squamish. After the list, I have nearly a dozen short trip reports from some of the longer climbs I’ve done in Squamish. (My "rule" is that I write a trip report if the climb goes to the top of The Chief). Of course, there are hundreds of awesome climbs at Squamish that do not involve topping out on the The Chief. The end of the page contains some random photos from other climbs I've done at Squamish.

List of Multi-Pitch Climbs I've done at Squamish
(with links to photos or trip reports) 

(Alphabetical order)
(trip reports for ones with photo) ROUTE/LINK DIFFICULTY AREA

On the Chief:
   =Grand Wall Area
=The Apron, Squamish Buttress, Echelon Wall
   =The Bulletheads, Tantalus Wall, Western Dihedrals, The Solarium
   =The North Walls, Sheriff's Badge
Not on the Chief:
   =Fluffy Kitten Wall
   =The Malamute,
Murrin Park, The Papoose, Shannon Falls



Angel's Crest 5.10b, 13p Sheriff's Badge

 TR #: 165

Birds of Prey 5.10b, 6p Slhanay/Squaw  May 2017

Blazing Saddles 5.10b, 2p Sheriff's Badge June 2016
Borderline + (upper) Angel's Crest 5.10d, 6p + 5.10a, 7p Sheriff's Badge 

 TR #: 246

Bottom Line, The 5.9, 3p The Apron  June 2014

Bulletheads East 5.10b/c, 4p The Bulletheads June 2014 & June 2017

Calculus Crack 5.8, 6p The Apron June 2016

Chewbacca 5.10-, 3p Shannon Falls May 2018

Diedre 5.8, 6p The Apron May 2006

Enlightened 5.10c, 3p The Solarium May 2007 & May 2017

Exasperator 5.10c, 2p Grand Wall base area Sept 2006, May 2015, & June 2017
Grand Wall, The 5.11a, 10p
Grand Wall area 

  TR #: 42

 TR #: 166

 TR #: 219

Great Game, The 5,10d, 4p Slhanay/Squaw  May 2016

Grub Street Complex 5.10c, 4p The Malamute June 2016

Hairpin 5.10a, 5p
The Papoose  May 2016
Milk Road 5.10d A0, 9p Tantalus Wall 

 TR #: 187

Milk Run 5.10c A0, 4p
Tantalus Wall  May 2007
New Life + Parallel Passages 5.11b, 5p / 5.10b, 6p The North Walls

 TR #: 311

Over the Rainbow 5.10a, 6p The Apron  June 2014

Parallel Passages (Pitches 5-10) 5.10b, 6p The North Walls Aug 2018

Peasant's Route 5.10c, 6p Grand Wall base area  June 2017

Right Wing 5.10d,4- 6p Slhanay/Squaw  Aug 2018
Rock On + Squamish Buttress 5.10c, 4p + 5.10c, 5p The Apron to Squamish Buttress area 

 TR #: 220
St. Vitus' Dance / South Arete + Karen's Math + Memorial Crack + Squamish Buttress 5.10a, 3p + 5.9, 3p + 5.10a, 1p + 5.9, 1p + 5.10c, 5p The Apron to Squamish Buttress area

 TR #: 247

Skywalker 5.8, 5p Shannon Falls May 2018

Slot Machine 5.9, 2p The Bulletheads June 2014

Snake  5.9, 5p The Apron May 2014

Squamish Buttress 5.10c, 5p Squamish Buttress area  May 2016 & May 2017

Sunblessed 5.10b, 4p The Solarium May 2007 & May 2017
Sunset Strip 5.10d, 9-12p Western Dihedrals

 TR #: 186

Sunshine Breakfast 5.9, 3p The Solarium May 2017
Ultimate Everything 5.9 A0, 23p Echelon Wall

  TR #: 24

Unfinished Symphony 5.11b, 5p
The Apron May 2007

Upper Tantalus Wall 5.11b A0, 4p
Tantalus Wall  May 2007
Wonderful Thing About Tiggers,The 5.10c A0, 7p Fluffy Kitten Wall 

 TR #: 257

List of Single-Pitch Climbs I've done at Squamish
(with links to photos) 

(Alphabetical order)

=The Apron
   =The Malamute,
Murrin Park,
The Papoose,
Shannon Falls

   =Smoke Bluffs
   =Chek Canyon

Backslapper Crack 5.10c, 1p Smoke Bluffs June 2018
Burning Down the Couch 5.11+ or 5.9 A0, 1p Murrin Park  Sept 2017
Cat Crack 5.7+, 1p Smoke Bluffs Aug 2005
Clandestine Affair 5.9, 1p Smoke Bluffs May 2018
Cold Comfort 5.9, 1p Smoke Bluffs May 2016
Cornflakes 5.7, 1p Smoke Bluffs May 2018
Dark Don't Lie 5.11a, 1p Cheakamus Canyon June 2018
Dr. Watts 5.10b, 1p Shannon Falls May 2018
Erica 5.10b, 1p Smoke Bluffs June 2018
EPB 5.10a, 1p Shannon Falls May 2018
Flying Circus 5.10a, 1p Smoke Bluffs May 2018
Gift, The 5.6, 1p Smoke Bluffs June 2018
GMB, The 5.10a, 1p Smoke Bluffs June 2018
Grub Street 5.11a, 1p The Malamute June 2016
Heavy Petting Action 5.10b, 1p Murrin Park  Sept 2017
High Mountain Woody 5.9, 1p The Malamute June 2016
Jump to Light Speed 5.10c, 1p Shannon Falls May 2018
Karen's Math 5.10a, 1p The Apron  June 2016, June 2017
Kigijiushi 5.10c, 1p Cheakamus Canyon June 2018
Layback Flake 5.9, 1p Smoke Bluffs May 2018
Loony Fringe 5.10c, 1p Smoke Bluffs June 2018
Memorial Crack 5.9, 1p The Apron June 2017
Mercury Vapour 5.10a, 1p
The Papoose  May 2016
More than Just a Pretty Face 5.10c, 1p Murrin Park  Sept 2017
Mosquito 5.8, 1p Smoke Bluffs June 2014
Mushroom 5.9, 1p
The Papoose  May 2016
Neat and Cool 5.10a, 1p Smoke Bluffs Aug 2005, May 2018
Paul's Crack 5.10a, 1p The Malamute June 2016
Penny Lane 5.9, 1p Smoke Bluffs May 2018
Picket Line 5.9, 1p Smoke Bluffs May 2016, June 2018
Pop Eye and the Raven 5.10c, 1p Smoke Bluffs May 2018
Poultry in Motion 5.10d, 1p Shannon Falls May 2018
Power Windows 5.11a, 1p Smoke Bluffs May 2018
Quarryman 5.8, 1p Smoke Bluffs May 2018
Reacharound, The 5.9, 1p Murrin Park  Sept 2017
Savage Beagle 5.10a, 1p Cheakamus Canyon June 2018
Slap and Tickle 5.10b, 1p The Malamute June 2016
Supervalue 5.10c, 1p Smoke Bluffs June 2018
Twenty-Minute Workout 5.10b, 1p Smoke Bluffs June 2018
Under the Mercy 5.9, 1p The Malamute June 2016
Up, Up, and Away 5.9, 1p Smoke Bluffs May 2018
Witch Doctor's Apprentice 5.9, 1p Smoke Bluffs May 2018
World's Toughest Milkman, The 5.9, 1p Murrin Park  Sept 2017

And here are trip reports for about a dozen of the longer climbs I've done at Squamish. (My "rule" for Squamish is that I write a trip report if the climb goes to the top of The Chief). Of course, there are hundreds of awesome climbs at Squamish that do not involve topping out on the The Chief. The end of the page contains some random photos from other climbs I've done at Squamish.

Echelon Wall, The CHIEF
Route: Ultimate Everything   
(23 pitches, 5.9 A0)    

Date: June 11, 2006       Partner: Jason Cullum

The rambling 23 pitch Ultimate Everything route up the Chief.
Brief trip report: 
With the rain of BC, I had not been able to do much climbing in nearby Squamish, so the first decent weekend my friend and I made the 2 hour drive to the Chief, with plans to climb the Ultimate Everything, a 23 pitch route up the left of the Chief. The route began with the slabby gear route called Banana Peel (5.6) on the Apron, then jumped onto the fun 2-pitch Broomstick Crack (5.7), and then followed a trail to the beginning of the final 10 pitches to the summit. These pitches ranged from 5.7 to 5.9, and were a mix of gear and bolts. A couple of the pitches were pretty wet still, making climbing interesting. The final pitch had an 11b move that we aided (ie. pulled on a draw) to get past, although given fresh fingers, a few tries, a bit of thought, and no heavy pack, I think I could do this move clean. Next objective up the Chief: the Grand Wall.....

Grand Wall area, The CHIEF
Route: The Grand Wall   (10 pitches: 10b, 10b, 5.8, 5.9, 10b A0, 10b, 11a A0, 11a, 10b, 10c)    

Date: May 11, 2007       Partner: Ross Peritore
Date: June 7, 2014       Partners: Tobias Tillemans, Jessica Todd, Geoff Georges
Date: May 7, 2016      Partner: John Plotz
Trip report: 

The first recorded rock climbs on The Chief were done in the late 50’s, but it was not until 1961 that the Grand Wall was finally climbed by Jim Baldwin and Ed Cooper in an epic 40 day siege. Since then, the Grand Wall has become THE route on the Chief. It has is all: perfect rock, great setting, runout slab, stellar crack, strenuous laybacking, delicate face, and many variations. I first climbed The Grand Wall in May 2007 with my friend Ross, and finally got a chance to climb it again seven years in June 2014 with my friends Tobias, Jessica, and Geoff (as two rope teams) and then again in 2016 with John Plotz (the route seemed harder the third time, which was pretty humbling). The following description contains my original 2007 trip report, where I've added some some photos, notes, and an improved route overlay from my subsequent climbs. (The 2014 and 2016 additions are in blue.)

A couple of random words of advice on this route: Advice #1: Start early or late to avoid crowds. In 2007, we started up at 10:49 am and never encountered another party on our pitches. In 2014, we arrived at the base of the route at 8 am, as did two other parties. Murphy's Law dictates that the first party on the route is usually not the fastest. Also, the Split Pillar and Sword slow even competent parties down. We ended up sitting at chilly belays for a few hours worth before we got to the Split Pillar. We could have started at 11 am and topped out at the same time. In 2016, we arrived at the base around 7 am and were the first party on route. Three other parties climbed the route that day. Advice #2: We did not bring a #4 cam and determined we never really needed it. But bring at least two #3 cams, or three if you don't want to walk your cams too much on the Split Pillar (this is the pitch that requires the most wide gear). 

Route overlay for The Grand Wall (created in 2007).
Route overlay for The Grand Wall (created in 2014).

A pitch-by-pitch description of The Grand Wall is below, with photos from my 2007 and 2014 climbs.

2007 Climb Pitch-by-Pitch Description 2014 Climb
(some 2016 photos as well)
Getting the gear ready, stalling to maximize our time in the sun.

Beta photo: the first half of the route as seen from the base.

PITCH 0 - Getting to the base

difficulty: easy if you stick to the trail

• start time: 10:49 am (2007)

We slept in until 8am, and spent a leisurely morning reading in lawn chairs in the sun outside a local coffee shop. It was sunny, but the air temperature was cool, and we knew the sun wouldn't hit the route until around 1pm. By mid-morning the caffeine began to kick in and off we headed to tackle the Grand Wall. There were 2 parties ahead of us on the route. One party was already at the top of the Split Pillar when we began to organize our gear – must have been a cold start for them!

The Split Pillar, Sword, and Perry's Layback as seen from the base of the route.
A pumpy and fun warm up pitch to begin the route.

PITCH 1 - Apron Strings I

• difficulty: 5.10b

• start time: 11:24 am (2007)

There are several variations of the first half of the route up to the Split Pillar. We chose to link up Apron Strings (a fun 2-pitch 10b) and Merci Me (a 2-pitch 5.8 on a dike) and traverse under a roof to the base of the Split Pillar.

The first pitch of Apron Strings is a rather pumpy laybacking start on a stellar 10b crack/flake.

Geoff, the master stuck-gear-cleaner.
This one had been in there awhile.
Ross leading up the second pitch of Apron Strings, the first of the many right-facing corners.

PITCH 2 - Apron Strings II

• difficulty: 5.10b

• start time: 11:50 am (2007)

The second pitch of Apron Strings is another 10b crack up to a tree belay, quite cruiser now that we were warmed up.

Great climbing.
The anchors on the route are all bolted, which makes for quick transitions and allows for possible bailing if needed.
In this photo, the Split Pillar is on the right, just left and up of the tree. Pitch 5 involves a short section of A0 aid to reach the belay near the tree.

PITCH 3 - Merci Me I

• difficulty: 5.8

• start time: 12:15 pm (2007)

From the top of Apron Strings, we climbed the first 1.5 pitches of Merci Me, splitting off halfway through the second pitch to traverse rightwards towards the Split Pillar. Merci Me follows a runout bolted 5.8 dike with several face holds.

Easy face climbing, but runout! Runout is not my style...
Ross at the chains below the roof. A bit chilly in the shade.

PITCH 4 - Merci Me II

• difficulty: 5.9

• start time: 12:40 pm (2007)

The first half of this pitch followed the bolted dike of Merci Me, and then split off to the right to traverse to a chain anchor at the base of the obvious roof. This traverse was conveniently wet and slimy at the crux reachy 5.9 move right before the anchor.

Jessica making the final rather committing traverse step to the anchor. It's often a bit wet here.
An airy traverse of steep flakes starts off the pitch.


• difficulty: 5.10b A0

• start time: 1:06 pm (2007)

From the chain anchor, we traversed down and right through some flakes, and then had to do some pulling/standing in slings on a short bolt ladder to the belay at a tree at the base of the Split Pillar. This was a fun airy traverse pitch, and good practice on my A0 aiding techniques.

Jessica just after the 10b crux.
Geoff leading the A0 bolt section. We split Pitch 5 into two sections because a backup of parties at the anchor directly below the Split Pillar.
An old piton below the Split Pillar.
Ross leading up the nearly vertical Split Pillar. What a pitch!
Steph climbing up the Split Pillar.

PITCH 6 - Split Pillar

• difficulty: 5.10b

• start time: 2:02 pm (2007)

The heart of The Grand Wall route begins with The Split Pillar, continues onto The Sword, and then to Perry’s Layback. The fame of these pitches is well deserved.

The Split Pillar is an amazing right-facing layback. Super pumpy! Ross didn’t even break a sweat though….

Geoff nearing the top of the Split Pillar.
He decided to go inside the chimney at the top, while the rest of us did an airy step to a ledge on the outside of the pillar.
The Split Pillar pitch is the wide gear-hog of the route. We had two #3 cams and one #4 cam with us. This was sufficient for the Split Pillar, with a little walking of the #3 cams. Only one #4 is needed for the route. (This photo is of my old Chouinard #3 cam, which my friend cleaned off The Nose on El Cap and sold to me, and I've since retired due to hairline fractures in the stem attachment area.)
Looking up the steep Sword pitch. Fun stuff.

PITCH 7 - The Sword

• difficulty: 5.11a A0

• start time: 2:54 pm (2007)

Just when you thought it couldn’t get any better, the steep granite of The Sword looms above. This was another pumpy pitch. We linked this with some more A0 bolt laddering to the base of Perry’s Layback.

Geoff nearing the top of the Sword pitch. This is the technical crux pitch of the route.
Looking up at Tobias leading the bolt ladder at the top of the Sword pitch. We broke Pitch 7 into two sections because a backup at the anchor directly below Perry's Layback.
An old bolt beside the bolt ladder.
Jessica leading the bolt ladder just above the Sword. Having fun!
Another photo of Jessica leading the bolt ladder just above the Sword.
Perry's Layback. Unless you want to run it out or lug up some heavy cams, the bolts are a welcome sight. Super pumpy but fun.

PITCH 8 - Perry's Layback

• difficulty: 5.11a

• start time: 4:03 pm (2007)

And just when you thought it couldn’t possibly get any more pumpy, another right facing layback appears, named after Perry Beckham who first freed this pitch in 1980 (with his ex-wife belaying, Perry drilled eight Rawls into the rock below a wide horizontal crack to protect the route and then freed the pitch, Perry’s Layback was born). There is a cool much-needed no-hands airy rest at the top of the layback, by leaning against the block at the top. The pitch ends at the flat ledge above.

Tobias on Perry's Layback (more like Perry's Giant Undercling). Although short, this is probably the most strenuous pitch of the route, especially since it occurs high on the route. The bolts are quite welcome here. 
Right and up from the flat ledge.


• difficulty: 5.10b

• start time: 4:42 pm (2007)

From the flat ledge, there are a couple of variations to the next pitch. We climbed up and right on face holds and past a reachy 10b crux to the belay. It looks like it might be wet in the photo, but the pitch was almost all dry (overall, the entire route was pretty dry, with only a couple of seeping sections).

Tobias on the traverse to the right at the start of the pitch. We found the climbing on this pitch to be slightly unnerving but perhaps just because we were tired.
Nice exposure!
An old bolt on Pitch 9.
Ross climbing the tree at the beginning of the final pitch.

Ross at the end of the undercling, just before a short layback section and then overcling back left. The route tops out on Bellygood Ledge at the notch between the two trees.


• difficulty: 5.10c

• start time: 5:12 pm (2007)

The final pitch below Bellygood Ledge begins with some tree-climbing (wouldn't be Squamish without a bit of tree-climbing on a route!), and then follows a 10c undercling and overcling to the top. A pretty short and fun pitch.

Tobias on the cool undercling-overcling section. The undercling portion is about 10c.
The overcling portion is a fun finish! But it seems hard for 5.7 after you've climbed the entire Grand Wall to get to it....
Bellygood Ledge. 2 feet across, 1500+ feet straight down...

Looking down at the trees 1500+ft below.

DESCENT - via Bellygood Ledge

• start time: 5:36 pm (2007)

For those with time/energy/desire, you can continue to climb a few more pitches upwards via Roman Chimneys or the Upper Black Dike, or (like most people), you can end the route here and traverse to the trail via Bellygood Ledge. This is what we chose to do since, at least to me, a pint of Ben and Jerry’s and a campfire was looking mighty appealing. Bellygood Ledge is an amazing feature cutting across the rock. It’s pretty exposed (a 50-ft section is a 2-foot ledge with sheer vertical walls on either side, protected by a bolt at either end), so a good idea to stay roped up until you reach the trail at the end.

Back to the car at 6:35 pm (2007), a little under 8 hours since we left it. What a Grand adventure! Thanks Ross for being psyched to climb it again!

Bellygood Ledge just right of the top of the Grand Wall route.
The first (of three) exposed sections on Bellygood Ledge. You can set up a tension traverse here on fixed rings on either side.
The second exposed section. Crawl or undercling.
The third exposed section. A spicy finish to a great day.

Sheriff's Badge, The CHIEF
Route: Angel's Crest (13 pitches: 10b, 10b, 10b, 5.6, 10a, 5.5, 10a, 5.9, 5.5, 5.8, 5.7, 10a, 5.8)   

Date: May 31, 2014       Partners: Jessica Todd & Geoff Georges
(Upper half only:   Date: May 29, 2017     Partner: DR)

Angel's Crest in morning light, from Squamish. Photo and overlay by Steph Abegg.

Route overlay of Angel's Crest. From Squamish Rock Guides website.

Beckey's topo. From climbing.com.
Brief trip report:
This was my third time climbing to the top of the Chief, and definitely a fun and athletic adventure with a great position. This route has a lot of enjoyable moderate climbing on the crest interspersed with a few steep and cruxy sections, lush forests (how do the trees get so big on such a steep rock formation?), and comfortable belays. Despite being a group of three, we climbed relatively quickly (usually the second could tie in just shy of the middle mark, so rarely were both of the followers climbing for more than a few moves). After a late lunch of the south summit, we hiked back down towards the parking lot, taking a three hour detour to climb The Snake (6p, 5.9) sans crowds and making the day's total 19 or so pitches. Chief and a Half! 

Three years later I climbed the upper half of Angel's Crest again, as part of a link-up with Borderline.


Western Dihedrals, The CHIEF
Route: Sunset Strip (9-12 pitches: 10c, 10a, 10b, 10c, 5.9, 10b, 10a, 5.8, 10d, 10a, 10d, 5.9)   

Date: May 30, 2015      Partner: Jon Pobst

Western Dihedrals from the parking lot below the Grand Wall. Sunset Strip runs up the center of the photo.

Brief trip report:
I'd had my eye on the 12-pitch Sunset Strip since I became aware of its existence in late 2013 (I think the route was established around this time, or perhaps the previous season). The route uses sections of other climbs, Sticky Fingers, Millennium Falcon, Crap Crags, and The Gauntlet, with about 70% new terrain to create a very direct and interesting line up the ChiefMost of the pitches are rated in the 5.10 range. I climbed the route with Jon Pobst in May 2015. We found the climbing to be more mellow than expected (not quite the  "very sustained 5.10" in the online route description and the pitches were so short it didn't feel like a 12 pitch route), but it is an excellent route and we had a fun day on the textured Squamish granite. 

Below are some photos from our climb. For more route beta and a great route topo, see http://squamishclimbingsource.com/sunset-strip/

Photo descriptions:
a. Western Dihedrals from the parking lot below the Grand Wall. Sunset Strip runs up the center of the photo. 
b. Looking up from the base of the route. 12 pitches of 5.10ish climbing ahead!
c. Jon leading off Pitch 2, a fun 10a layback.
d. Jon leading off Pitch 4, a 10c off-fingers splitter crack. We agreed that this section of climbing seemed to be the crux section of the route, harder than the supposed 10d cruxes on a couple of the other pitches.
e. Looking up Pitch 5, a 5.9 box corner. I led this pitch. Fun climbing.
f. Jon nearing the top of Pitch 7, which has a fun 10a undercling near the top of the pitch.
g. Looking down at climbers (my friends Jess and Geoff actually!) on Pitch 10. This was a splitter hand/fist crack. I walked my #4 through the first 20 feet or so until the first bolt.
h. Jon 
starting off Pitch 11, which traverses right along underclings and face holds. There is a 10d crux move right before the anchor but it didn't seem too hard. This pitch is very well bolted and the exposure is great.
i. Jon in the 5.9 chimney of Pitch 12. Jon cruised on upward. This pitch was perhaps the most difficult pitch on the route for me.
Picturesque Squamish as seen from high on the Chief.
k. We finished off the day by doing laps on the first pitch of Exasperator, a classic finger crack test piece.
l. Shadow climbing on Exasperator.

Tantalus Wall, The CHIEF
Route: Milk Road    (9 pitches: 5.9 A0 or 11b, 10c A0 or 11d, 10b, 10d, 10b, 5.8, 10a, 10c, 5.0)   

(Lower half only:   Date: May 12, 2007     Partner: Ross Peritore)
 May 31, 2015       Partner: Jon Pobst

Jon leading off the second pitch of Milk Run corner, which is Pitches 3-4 of Milk Road.

Brief trip report: 
I'd climbed Milk Run+Upper Tantalus Wall in 2007 with Ross Peritore. This link-up ascended the lower half of the Milk Road route and then continued up right to Upper Tantalus Wall.  The pitches up Milk Run corner had been particularly excellent, and I was always curious about the rest of the Milk Road route that continues up to the left. So for our second day of climbing in Squamish (we'd climbed Sunset Strip the previous day), Jon and I decided to climb Milk Road. Below are some photos from our climb. Jon and I found Milk Road to be a high-quality climb that involves a satisfying amount of sustained 5.10 crack climbing. We really enjoyed this route.

Photo descriptions:
a. Milk Road follows the best three pitches of Milk Run (the obvious left-facing corner in the photo) before following cracks above and a final dyke finish).
b. Looking up the route from the base. In this photo Jon is near the crux 11b (or A0) bolt-protected slab section of Pitch 1. He decided to attempt the moves free, and onsighted it. Impressive.
c. Jon leading off Pitch 2, which starts with some great climbing up an arching flake. 
d. Pitch 2 f
inishes with an A0 (or 11d) bolted traverse.
e. Looking up the Milk Run corner which comprises Pitches 3 and 4 of Milk Road. The first pitch is 10b while the second is 10d or 11a depending on the source. Excellent climbing ahead!
f. Looking down during my lead up the first Milk Run Corner pitch. 
g. Jon at the top of the first 
Milk Run Corner pitch.
h. Jon led the second 
Milk Run Corner pitch. The second corner pitch is a bit steeper than the first and even more excellent. 
i. I led the "Changing Corners" Pitch 5. It was a bit dirty but I really enjoyed the steep and juggy climbing.
j. Looking up the "Crescent Tower" chimney of Pitch 7. I had gotten into the leading mode and led this one as well. This pitch features a variety of 5.10a climbing: chimney to hand crack to finger traverse.
k. The last real pitch of the route is an airy and delicate foot traverse along a dike ("Crescent Dike"). "Spooky fun" for the leader, "this is cool! fun" for the follower.

The Apron to Squamish Buttress Area, The CHIEF
Route: Rock On (DIRECT START) + Squamish Buttress 
(Rock On: 4 pitches: 10a, 10c, 10a, 5.7;  Squamish Buttress: 5 pitches: 5.8, 5.7, 5.9, 10c, 5.6)   

Date: May 14, 2016       Partner: Jon Pobst

Overlay of our link-up. 
Brief trip report:
This link-up is a fun way to the summit of the First Peak of the Chief, involving 4 pitches of 5.10 climbing and 5 pitches of moderate (5.6-5.9) climbing. We were happy to find Rock On mostly dry, as this route is notorious for being wet in the spring.

Photo descriptions (first to last):
- Pitch 1 of Rock On.
- Crux 10c pitch of Rock On Direct.
- Crux 10c pitch of Squamish Buttress.
- Welcome to the top of the First Peak!

The Sheriff's Badge, The CHIEF 
Route: Borderline + (UPPER) Angel's Crest
(Borderline: 6 pitches: 10b, 5.8, 10d, 10a, 10a, 10d;  Angel's Crest: Pitches 7-13: 10a, 5.9, 5.5, 5.8, 10a, 10a, 5.8)   

Date: May 29, 2017       Partner: DR
Route overlay of Borderline. From Squamish Rock Guides website.

Route overlay of Angel's Crest. From Squamish Rock Guides website.

Brief trip report: 
This is a great 13-pitch link-up, with half the pitches at the 5.10 level. It was a hot day, but we stayed mostly in the shade until we popped onto the South Summit at 3pm. Fun day!

Photo descriptions:
a. Looking up from base of route. A sort of grungy start to good stuff above.
b. The corner on the second half of Pitch 1.
c. 5.8 corner of Pitch 2.
Bolted 10d face on Pitch 3.
e. Finger crack above the face on on Pitch 3.
f. Looking up the offwidth. 
Looking down the offwidth.
h. 10d face climbing on Pitch 6

i. The end of the route at the top of Pitch 6. From here, you can either rap the route (2 ropes) or go left about 300 feet to join Angel's Crest and climb to the top of The Chief (which is what we did). 
j. The grungy 5.8 between the end of Borderline and Angel's Crest. The climbing is pretty easy and it's actually not too dirty by Squamish off-route standards.
k. The offwidth variation on Pitch 8 of Angel's Crest. Someday I'd like to climb this pitch, but it would involve lugging a #6 up the route....
l. The standard 5.9 route on Pitch 8. Good climbing.
The Acrophobes (Pitch 9).
The Acrophobes (Pitch 9).
o. A 10a variation on Pitch 11.
p. The steep 10a crack on Pitch 12.
q. On top!

The Apron to Squamish Buttress area, The CHIEF
Route: St. Vitus' Dance (DIRECT VARIATION) South Arete + Karen's Math  + Memorial Crack  + Squamish Buttress  
(3p: 5.7, 10a, 5.8;  3p: 5.9, 5.9, 5th;  1p: 10a;  1p: 5.9;  5p: 5.8, 5.7, 5.9, 10c, 5.6)     

Date: June 4, 2017       Partner: Cindy Beavon
Overlay of our link-up.
Brief trip report: 
This link-up is a fun way to the summit of the First Peak of the Chief, involving a lot of moderate (5.7-5.9) climbing with lots of variety with the
occasional challenging (5.10) section. Cindy and I had a great day.

Photo descriptions (first to last):
- Awesome crack on Pitch 3 of St. Vitus' Dance.
- Slabby climbing on South Arete route.
- Unique flake feature on Karen's Math.
- Memorial Crack.
- The stellar 10c pitch on Squamish Buttress.
- On top of the First Peak.

Route: The Wonderful Thing About Tiggers  
(7 pitches: 5.9, 5.8, 5.7, 10b, 10a, 11a or 10c A0, 5.9)   

Date: July 30, 2017       Partner: Chris Oleson

The 600-ft Fluffy Kitten Wall (left wall) from the road. The Wonderful Thing About Tiggers, shown in red, goes to the top.

Brief trip report: 
For some reason (perhaps the somewhat rough road — my Subaru was just find though — and 40 minute uphill approach), this route does not get much traffic. But it is a superb route, featuring 600 feet of super solid granite and well-protected splitter cracks and corners and flakes. The pitches are not strenuous or stressful, just long and enjoyable. Being north facing, it is an excellent choice for a hot summer day. Thanks Chris for responding to my MP post and climbing this route with me!

Photo descriptions:
a. To get to Fluffy Kitten Wall, drive up Mamquam FS Road and then up the road marked Stawamus Community Watershed.
b. Sign for Fluffy Kitten Wall where we parked at a large washout.
c. Rope bridge crossing creek between the road and the hillside leading up to Fluffy Kitten Wall.
d. Chris crossing the rope bridge.
e. Steep but easy-to-follow trail.
f. Fixed rope leading up to Tigger Ledge at the base of the route.
g. Chris starting off Pitch 1, which climbs the corner in the background.
h. Looking down Pitch 1.
i. Pitch 2.
j. Pitch 3.
k. Pitch 3.
l. Pitch 4.
m. Pitch 4.
n. Pitch 4
o. Pitch 5.
p. Pitch 6.
q. Pitch 6.
r. Pitch 7.
s. The final corner of Pitch 7 is kind of dirty. I think it gets runoff from above.
t. Blueberries on Pitch 7.
u. The view from the top of the route.
v. Looking down on where we parked at a large washout.

The North Walls, The CHIEF 
Route: New Life + Parallel Passages  
(New Life: 5 pitches: 10b, 11b, 10c, 11b, 10b;  Parallel Passages: Top 6 pitches: 10b A0, 10a, 10b, low 5th, 10b+10a, 10b) 

Date: August 15, 2018       Partner: Chris Cox

Route overlays for New Life + Parallel Passages.

Brief trip report: 
Chris and I combined New Life (a Top 100 climb) with the upper half of Parallel Passages (apparently the better pitches on the route, especially since the 2015 rockfall damaged the lower pitches) for a full day of climbing to the top of the North Walls. Every pitch is 5.10 or higher, with a fair bit of wide and burly climbing. Being on the shady North Walls, these routes are a great choice for a summer day. But it was an unusually humid day, so we were usually drenched in sweat by the time we finished each pitch. Still, it was an awesome day of climbing and I highly recommend this link-up.

Photo descriptions:
a. These signs were useful.
b. Looking up the start of New Life.
c. Pitch 1 of New Life.
Pitch 2 of New Life.
e. Pitch 3 of New Life..
f. Pitch 4 of New Life..
Pitch 5 of New Life.
h. Fixed lines between the top of New Life and Astro Ledge.
i. Pitch 5 of Parallel Passages (just above Astro Ledge).
j. Pitch 6 of Parallel Passages.
Pitch 7 of Parallel Passages. A #5 was nice to have on this route.
l. Pitch 8 of Parallel Passages..
Pitch 9 of Parallel Passages.
n. Pitch 9b of Parallel Passages (we broke Pitch 9 as described in the guidebook into 2 pitches, which seemed to make sense, especially since there was a bolted anchor on a nice ledge mideay through the pitch).
o. Pitch 10 of Parallel Passages.