(LIST OF CLIMBS + SHORT REPORTS)
 
2006 - 2018
 
Rock Type: Granite
Elev: 100-2,000 ft / 30-600 m

SQUAMISH Climbing


Squamish is a world-class climbing destination, featuring everything from cragging to 1000-foot multipitch granite climbing right off the road. Squamish is a mere 2 hour drive from my home, and I try to make it my go-to (whenever it's dry) weekend destination in the spring. Even so, I've only scratched the surface there.

The Grand Wall on The Chief, one of THE routes at Squamish.

 
Left: View towards Squamish from high up on the Chief (taken on 2007 climb of The Grand Wall).
Right: One of many Squamish crack pitches (do you recognize this popular crack climb?).

This page features some "short reports" from some of the climbs I’ve done in Squamish, which includes the Grand Wall (the iconic route of Squamish, ascending the vertical face of the Chief). Most of the following trip reports do not give a wide photo selection, but they do provide some route beta and interesting details. 



ON THIS PAGE:

List of Multi-Pitch Climbs I've done at Squamish
(with links to photos) 
(Alphabetical order)
(trip reports for ones with photo) ROUTE/LINK DIFFICULTY AREA
On the Chief:
   =Grand Wall Area
   
=The Apron, Squamish Buttress, Echelon Wall
   =The Bulletheads, Tantalus Wall, Western Dihedrals, The Solarium
   =The North Walls, Sheriff's Badge
Not on the Chief:
   =Slhanay/Squaw
   =Fluffy Kitten Wall
   =The Malamute, Murrin Park, The Papoose, Shannon Falls
DATE CLIMBED

Color-coded: 
Spring
Summer

Angel's Crest 5.10b, 13p Sheriff's Badge
MAY
31
2014


Birds of Prey 5.10b, 6p Slhanay/Squaw  May 2017

Blazing Saddles 5.10b, 2p Sheriff's Badge June 2016
Borderline + (upper) Angel's Crest 5.10d, 6p + 5.10a, 7p Sheriff's Badge 
MAY
29
2017


The Bottom Line 5.9, 3p The Apron  June 2014

Bulletheads East 5.10b/c, 4p The Bulletheads June 2014 & June 2017

Calculus Crack 5.8, 6p The Apron June 2016

Chewbacca 5.10-, 3p Shannon Falls May 2018

Diedre 5.8, 6p The Apron May 2006

Enlightened 5.10c, 3p The Solarium May 2007 & May 2017

Exasperator 5.10c, 2p Grand Wall base area Sept 2006, May 2015, & June 2017
The Grand Wall 5.11a, 10p
Grand Wall area 
MAY
11
2007

JUNE
7
2014

MAY
7
2016


The Great Game 5,10d, 4p Slhanay/Squaw  May 2016

Grub Street Complex 5.10c, 4p The Malamute June 2016

Hairpin 5.10a, 5p
The Papoose  May 2016
Milk Road 5.10d A0, 9p Tantalus Wall 
MAY
31
2015


Milk Run 5.10c A0, 4p
Tantalus Wall  May 2007
New Life + Parallel Passages 5.11b, 5p / 5.10b, 6p The North Walls
AUG
15
2018


Parallel Passages (Pitches 5-10) 5.10b, 6p The North Walls Aug 2018

Over the Rainbow 5.10a, 6p The Apron  June 2014

Peasant's Route 5.10c, 6p Grand Wall base area  June 2017

Right Wing 5.10d,4- 6p Slhanay/Squaw  Aug 2018
Rock On + Squamish Buttress 5.10c, 4p + 5.10c, 5p The Apron to Squamish Buttress area 
MAY
14
2016


Skywalker 5.8, 5p Shannon Falls May 2018

Slot Machine 5.9, 2p The Bulletheads June 2014

Snake  5.9, 5p The Apron May 2014
St. Vitus' Dance / South Arete + Karen's Math + Memorial Crack + Squamish Buttress 5.10a, 3p + 5.9, 3p + 5.10a, 1p + 5.9, 1p + 5.10c, 5p The Apron to Squamish Buttress area
JUNE
4
2017


Squamish Buttress 5.10c, 5p Squamish Buttress area  May 2016 & May 2017

Sunblessed 5.10b, 4p The Solarium May 2007 & May 2017

Sunshine Breakfast 5.9, 3p The Solarium May 2017
Sunset Strip 5.10d, 9-12p Western Dihedrals
MAY
30
2015

Ultimate Everything 5.9 A0, 23p Echelon Wall
JUNE
11
2006


Unfinished Symphony 5.11b, 5p
The Apron May 2007

Upper Tantalus Wall 5.11b A0, 4p
Tantalus Wall  May 2007
The Wonderful Thing About Tiggers 5.10c A0, 7p Fluffy Kitten Wall 
JULY
30
2017


List of Single-Pitch Climbs I've done at Squamish
(with links to photos) 
(Alphabetical order)

ROUTE/LINK DIFFICULTY AREA
   
=The Apron
   =The Malamute, Murrin Park, The Papoose, Shannon Falls
   =Smoke Bluffs
   =Chek Canyon
DATE CLIMBED

Color-coded: 
Spring
Summer

Backslapper Crack 5.10c, 1p Smoke Bluffs June 2018

Burning Down the Couch 5.11+ or 5.9 A0, 1p Murrin Park  Sept 2017

Cat Crack 5.7+, 1p Smoke Bluffs Aug 2005

Clandestine Affair 5.9, 1p Smoke Bluffs May 2018

Cold Comfort 5.9, 1p Smoke Bluffs May 2016

Cornflakes 5.7, 1p Smoke Bluffs May 2018

Dark Don't Lie 5.11a, 1p Cheakamus Canyon June 2018

Dr. Watts 5.10b, 1p Shannon Falls May 2018

Erica 5.10b, 1p Smoke Bluffs June 2018

EPB 5.10a, 1p Shannon Falls May 2018

Flying Circus 5.10a, 1p Smoke Bluffs May 2018

The Gift 5.6, 1p Smoke Bluffs June 2018

The GMB 5.10a, 1p Smoke Bluffs June 2018

Grub Street 5.11a, 1p The Malamute June 2016

Heavy Petting Action 5.10b, 1p Murrin Park  Sept 2017

High Mountain Woody 5.9, 1p The Malamute June 2016

Jump to Light Speed 5.10c, 1p Shannon Falls May 2018

Karen's Math 5.10a, 1p The Apron  June 2016, June 2017

Kigijiushi 5.10c, 1p Cheakamus Canyon June 2018

Layback Flake 5.9, 1p Smoke Bluffs May 2018

Loony Fringe 5.10c, 1p Smoke Bluffs June 2018

Memorial Crack 5.9, 1p The Apron June 2017

Mercury Vapour 5.10a, 1p
The Papoose  May 2016

More than Just a Pretty Face 5.10c, 1p Murrin Park  Sept 2017

Mosquito 5.8, 1p Smoke Bluffs June 2014

Mushroom 5.9, 1p
The Papoose  May 2016

Neat and Cool 5.10a, 1p Smoke Bluffs Aug 2005, May 2018

Paul's Crack 5.10a, 1p The Malamute June 2016

Penny Lane 5.9, 1p Smoke Bluffs May 2018

Picket Line 5.9, 1p Smoke Bluffs May 2016, June 2018

Pop Eye and the Raven 5.10c, 1p Smoke Bluffs May 2018

Poultry in Motion 5.10d, 1p Shannon Falls May 2018

Power Windows 5.11a, 1p Smoke Bluffs May 2018

Quarryman 5.8, 1p Smoke Bluffs May 2018

The Reacharound 5.9, 1p Murrin Park  Sept 2017

Savage Beagle 5.10a, 1p Cheakamus Canyon June 2018

Slap and Tickle 5.10b, 1p The Malamute June 2016

Supervalue 5.10c, 1p Smoke Bluffs June 2018

Twenty-Minute Workout 5.10b, 1p Smoke Bluffs June 2018

Under the Mercy 5.9, 1p The Malamute June 2016

Up, Up, and Away 5.9, 1p Smoke Bluffs May 2018

Witch Doctor's Apprentice 5.9, 1p Smoke Bluffs May 2018

The World's Toughest Milkman 5.9, 1p Murrin Park  Sept 2017


The following trip reports are listed in chronological order (see above list for alphabetical order).

The Smoke Bluffs
CRAGGING AT
THE SMOKE BLUFFS  
Routes:
CAT CRACK (5.7, 1p), NEAT AND COOL (10a, 1p), + a few other routes I can't remember 

Date: August 2005     Partner: Jenny Abegg

(no trip report)


The Apron, The Chief
Route:
 DIEDRE  (6 pitches: 5.7, 5.6, 5.8, 5.8, 5.7, 5.8)  

Date: May 31, 2006      Partner: Jason Cullum

Pitch 4 of Diedre.
(no trip report)


Echelon Wall, The Chief
Route:
 ULTIMATE EVERYTHING  (23 pitches, 5.9 A0)   

Date: June 11, 2006    Partner: Jason Cullum

Trip Report #: 24

The rambling 23 pitch Ultimate Everything route up the Chief.
Brief trip report: With the rain of BC, I had not been able to do much climbing in nearby Squamish, so the first decent weekend my friend and I made the 2 hour drive to the Chief, with plans to climb the Ultimate Everything, a 23 pitch route up the left of the Chief. The route began with the slabby gear route called Banana Peel (5.6) on the Apron, then jumped onto the fun 2-pitch Broomstick Crack (5.7), and then followed a trail to the beginning of the final 10 pitches to the summit. These pitches ranged from 5.7 to 5.9, and were a mix of gear and bolts. A couple of the pitches were pretty wet still, making climbing interesting. The final pitch had an 11b move that we aided (ie. pulled on a draw) to get past, although given fresh fingers, a few tries, a bit of thought, and no heavy pack, I think I could do this move clean. Next objective up the Chief: the Grand Wall.....


Grand Wall base area, The Chief
Rou
te: EXASPERATOR  (2 pitches: 10a, 10c)    

Date: September 15, 2006     Partner: Darko Sarenac
Date: May 30, 2015    Partner: Jon Pobst
Date: June 3, 2017     Partner: Cindy Beavon


L: Looking down the awesome 10a crack on Pitch 1; R: Pitch 2.
(no trip report)


The Apron, The Chief 
Route:
 UNFINISHED SYMPHONY  (5 pitches: 5.9, 10a, 10d, 10d, 11b)   

Date: May 10, 2017     Partner: Ross Peritore

Route overlay for Unfinished Symphony.
(no trip report)


Grand Wall area, The Chief
Route:
 THE GRAND WALL  (10 pitches: 10b, 10b, 5.8, 5.9, 10b A0, 10b, 11a A0, 11a, 10b, 10c)  

Date: May 11, 2007    Partner: Ross Peritore
Date: June 7, 2014    Partners: Tobias Tillemans, Jessica Todd, Geoff Georges
Date: May 7, 2016    Partner: John Plotz

Trip Report #'s: 42166219
Trip report: 

The first recorded rock climbs on The Chief were done in the late 50’s, but it was not until 1961 that the Grand Wall was finally climbed by Jim Baldwin and Ed Cooper in an epic 40 day siege. Since then, the Grand Wall has become THE route on the Chief. It has is all: perfect rock, great setting, runout slab, stellar crack, strenuous laybacking, delicate face, and many variations. I first climbed The Grand Wall in May 2007 with my friend Ross, and finally got a chance to climb it again seven years in June 2014 with my friends Tobias, Jessica, and Geoff (as two rope teams) and then again in 2016 with John Plotz (the route seemed harder the third time, which was pretty humbling). The following description contains my original 2007 trip report, where I've added some some photos, notes, and an improved route overlay from my subsequent climbs. (The 2014 and 2016 additions are in blue.)

A couple of random words of advice on this route: Advice #1: Start early or late to avoid crowds. In 2007, we started up at 10:49 am and never encountered another party on our pitches. In 2014, we arrived at the base of the route at 8 am, as did two other parties. Murphy's Law dictates that the first party on the route is usually not the fastest. Also, the Split Pillar and Sword slow even competent parties down. We ended up sitting at chilly belays for a few hours worth before we got to the Split Pillar. We could have started at 11 am and topped out at the same time. In 2016, we arrived at the base around 7 am and were the first party on route. Three other parties climbed the route that day. Advice #2: We did not bring a #4 cam and determined we never really needed it. But bring at least two #3 cams, or three if you don't want to walk your cams too much on the Split Pillar (this is the pitch that requires the most wide gear). 

Route overlay for The Grand Wall (created in 2007).
Route overlay for The Grand Wall (created in 2014).


A pitch-by-pitch description of The Grand Wall is below, with photos from my 2007 and 2014 climbs.

2007 Climb Pitch-by-Pitch Description 2014 Climb
(some 2016 photos as well)
Getting the gear ready, stalling to maximize our time in the sun.

Beta photo: the first half of the route as seen from the base.

PITCH 0 - Getting to the base

difficulty: easy if you stick to the trail

• start time: 10:49 am (2007)

We slept in until 8am, and spent a leisurely morning reading in lawn chairs in the sun outside a local coffee shop. It was sunny, but the air temperature was cool, and we knew the sun wouldn't hit the route until around 1pm. By mid-morning the caffeine began to kick in and off we headed to tackle the Grand Wall. There were 2 parties ahead of us on the route. One party was already at the top of the Split Pillar when we began to organize our gear – must have been a cold start for them!

The Split Pillar, Sword, and Perry's Layback as seen from the base of the route.
A pumpy and fun warm up pitch to begin the route.

PITCH 1 - Apron Strings I

• difficulty: 5.10b

• start time: 11:24 am (2007)

There are several variations of the first half of the route up to the Split Pillar. We chose to link up Apron Strings (a fun 2-pitch 10b) and Merci Me (a 2-pitch 5.8 on a dike) and traverse under a roof to the base of the Split Pillar.

The first pitch of Apron Strings is a rather pumpy laybacking start on a stellar 10b crack/flake.

Geoff, the master stuck-gear-cleaner.
This one had been in there awhile.
Ross leading up the second pitch of Apron Strings, the first of the many right-facing corners.

PITCH 2 - Apron Strings II

• difficulty: 5.10b

• start time: 11:50 am (2007)

The second pitch of Apron Strings is another 10b crack up to a tree belay, quite cruiser now that we were warmed up.

Great climbing.
The anchors on the route are all bolted, which makes for quick transitions and allows for possible bailing if needed.
In this photo, the Split Pillar is on the right, just left and up of the tree. Pitch 5 involves a short section of A0 aid to reach the belay near the tree.

PITCH 3 - Merci Me I

• difficulty: 5.8

• start time: 12:15 pm (2007)

From the top of Apron Strings, we climbed the first 1.5 pitches of Merci Me, splitting off halfway through the second pitch to traverse rightwards towards the Split Pillar. Merci Me follows a runout bolted 5.8 dike with several face holds.

Easy face climbing, but runout! Runout is not my style...
Ross at the chains below the roof. A bit chilly in the shade.

PITCH 4 - Merci Me II

• difficulty: 5.9

• start time: 12:40 pm (2007)

The first half of this pitch followed the bolted dike of Merci Me, and then split off to the right to traverse to a chain anchor at the base of the obvious roof. This traverse was conveniently wet and slimy at the crux reachy 5.9 move right before the anchor.

Jessica making the final rather committing traverse step to the anchor. It's often a bit wet here.
An airy traverse of steep flakes starts off the pitch.

PITCH 5

• difficulty: 5.10b A0

• start time: 1:06 pm (2007)

From the chain anchor, we traversed down and right through some flakes, and then had to do some pulling/standing in slings on a short bolt ladder to the belay at a tree at the base of the Split Pillar. This was a fun airy traverse pitch, and good practice on my A0 aiding techniques.

Jessica just after the 10b crux.
Geoff leading the A0 bolt section. We split Pitch 5 into two sections because a backup of parties at the anchor directly below the Split Pillar.
An old piton below the Split Pillar.
Ross leading up the nearly vertical Split Pillar. What a pitch!
Steph climbing up the Split Pillar.

PITCH 6 - Split Pillar

• difficulty: 5.10b

• start time: 2:02 pm (2007)

The heart of The Grand Wall route begins with The Split Pillar, continues onto The Sword, and then to Perry’s Layback. The fame of these pitches is well deserved.

The Split Pillar is an amazing right-facing layback. Super pumpy! Ross didn’t even break a sweat though….

Geoff nearing the top of the Split Pillar.
He decided to go inside the chimney at the top, while the rest of us did an airy step to a ledge on the outside of the pillar.
The Split Pillar pitch is the wide gear-hog of the route. We had two #3 cams and one #4 cam with us. This was sufficient for the Split Pillar, with a little walking of the #3 cams. Only one #4 is needed for the route. (This photo is of my old Chouinard #3 cam, which my friend cleaned off The Nose on El Cap and sold to me, and I've since retired due to hairline fractures in the stem attachment area.)
Looking up the steep Sword pitch. Fun stuff.

PITCH 7 - The Sword

• difficulty: 5.11a A0

• start time: 2:54 pm (2007)

Just when you thought it couldn’t get any better, the steep granite of The Sword looms above. This was another pumpy pitch. We linked this with some more A0 bolt laddering to the base of Perry’s Layback.

Geoff nearing the top of the Sword pitch. This is the technical crux pitch of the route.
Looking up at Tobias leading the bolt ladder at the top of the Sword pitch. We broke Pitch 7 into two sections because a backup at the anchor directly below Perry's Layback.
An old bolt beside the bolt ladder.
Jessica leading the bolt ladder just above the Sword. Having fun!
Another photo of Jessica leading the bolt ladder just above the Sword.
Perry's Layback. Unless you want to run it out or lug up some heavy cams, the bolts are a welcome sight. Super pumpy but fun.

PITCH 8 - Perry's Layback

• difficulty: 5.11a

• start time: 4:03 pm (2007)

And just when you thought it couldn’t possibly get any more pumpy, another right facing layback appears, named after Perry Beckham who first freed this pitch in 1980 (with his ex-wife belaying, Perry drilled eight Rawls into the rock below a wide horizontal crack to protect the route and then freed the pitch, Perry’s Layback was born). There is a cool much-needed no-hands airy rest at the top of the layback, by leaning against the block at the top. The pitch ends at the flat ledge above.

Tobias on Perry's Layback (more like Perry's Giant Undercling). Although short, this is probably the most strenuous pitch of the route, especially since it occurs high on the route. The bolts are quite welcome here. 
Right and up from the flat ledge.

PITCH 9

• difficulty: 5.10b

• start time: 4:42 pm (2007)

From the flat ledge, there are a couple of variations to the next pitch. We climbed up and right on face holds and past a reachy 10b crux to the belay. It looks like it might be wet in the photo, but the pitch was almost all dry (overall, the entire route was pretty dry, with only a couple of seeping sections).

Tobias on the traverse to the right at the start of the pitch. We found the climbing on this pitch to be slightly unnerving but perhaps just because we were tired.
Nice exposure!
An old bolt on Pitch 9.
Ross climbing the tree at the beginning of the final pitch.

Ross at the end of the undercling, just before a short layback section and then overcling back left. The route tops out on Bellygood Ledge at the notch between the two trees.

PITCH 10

• difficulty: 5.10c

• start time: 5:12 pm (2007)

The final pitch below Bellygood Ledge begins with some tree-climbing (wouldn't be Squamish without a bit of tree-climbing on a route!), and then follows a 10c undercling and overcling to the top. A pretty short and fun pitch.

Tobias on the cool undercling-overcling section. The undercling portion is about 10c.
The overcling portion is a fun finish! But it seems hard for 5.7 after you've climbed the entire Grand Wall to get to it....
Bellygood Ledge. 2 feet across, 1500+ feet straight down...

Looking down at the trees 1500+ft below.

DESCENT - via Bellygood Ledge

• start time: 5:36 pm (2007)

For those with time/energy/desire, you can continue to climb a few more pitches upwards via Roman Chimneys or the Upper Black Dike, or (like most people), you can end the route here and traverse to the trail via Bellygood Ledge. This is what we chose to do since, at least to me, a pint of Ben and Jerry’s and a campfire was looking mighty appealing. Bellygood Ledge is an amazing feature cutting across the rock. It’s pretty exposed (a 50-ft section is a 2-foot ledge with sheer vertical walls on either side, protected by a bolt at either end), so a good idea to stay roped up until you reach the trail at the end.

Back to the car at 6:35 pm (2007), a little under 8 hours since we left it. What a Grand adventure! Thanks Ross for being psyched to climb it again!

Bellygood Ledge just right of the top of the Grand Wall route.
The first (of three) exposed sections on Bellygood Ledge. You can set up a tension traverse here on fixed rings on either side.
The second exposed section. Crawl or undercling.
The third exposed section. A spicy finish to a great day.



Tantalus Wall, The Chief
Route:
 MILK RUN + UPPER TANTALUS WALL  (8 pitches: 5.8, 10c A0, 10c, 10c, 11b A0, 11b, 11a A0, 11a A0)    

Date: May 12, 2007     Partner: Ross Peritore

Route overlay for Milk Run + Upper Tantalus Wall.
(no trip report)


The Solarium, The Chief
Routes:
 SUNBLESSED (4 pitches: 10a, 10a, 5.6, 10b) + ENLIGHTENED (3 pitches: 10a, 10c, 10a) + SUNSHINE BREAKFAST (3 pitches: 5.9, 5.9, 5.8)      

Date: May 13, 2007 (Sunblessed & Enlightened)     Partner: Ross Peritore
Date: May 27, 2017 (Sunblessed & Enlightened & Sunshine Breakfast)     Partner: DR
       
Photos (L to R): Splitter thin hand crack on Pitch 2 of Sunblessed (photo taken from Enlightened); awesome corner on Pitch 3 of Enlightened; cool flake feature on Pitch 1 of Sunshine Breakfast.
(no trip report)


Sheriff's Badge, The Chief
Route:
 ANGEL'S CREST  (13 pitches: 10b, 10b, 10b, 5.6, 10a, 5.5, 10a, 5.9, 5.5, 5.8, 5.7, 10a, 5.8) 

Date: May 31, 2014 (entire route)    Partners: Jessica Todd & Geoff Georges
Date: May 29, 2017 (upper half)    Partner: DR

Trip Report #: 165

Angel's Crest in morning light, from Squamish. Photo and overlay by Steph Abegg.

Route overlay of Angel's Crest. From Squamish Rock Guides website.

Beckey's topo. From climbing.com.
Brief trip report: This was my third time climbing to the top of the Chief, and definitely a fun and athletic adventure with a great position. This route has a lot of enjoyable moderate climbing on the crest interspersed with a few steep and cruxy sections, lush forests (how do the trees get so big on such a steep rock formation?), and comfortable belays. Despite being a group of three, we climbed relatively quickly (usually the second could tie in just shy of the middle mark, so rarely were both of the followers climbing for more than a few moves). After a late lunch of the south summit, we hiked back down towards the parking lot, taking a three hour detour to climb The Snake (6p, 5.9) sans crowds and making the day's total 19 or so pitches. Chief and a Half! 

Three years later I climbed the upper half of Angel's Crest again, as part of a link-up with Borderline.

Photos:


The Apron, The Chief
Route:
 SNAKE  (5 pitches: 5.7, 5.9, 5.9, 5.9, 5.7)   

Date: May 31, 2014    Partner: Jessica Todd & Geoff Georges

Climbing The Snake.
(no trip report)


The Bulletheads, The Chief 
Routes:
 BULLETHEADS EAST  (4 pitches: 5.9, 10b/c, 10a/b, 10b)   SLOT MACHINE  (2 pitches: 5.9, 5.6)   

Date: June 1, 2014 (Bulletheads East + Slot Machine)     Partners: Jessica Todd & Geoff Georges
Date: June 3, 2017 (Bulletheads East)     Partner: Cindy Beavon
 
L to R: Jessica nearing the top of Pitch 1; Cindy starting up Pitch 2; Looking down the stembox of Pitch 3; Looking up Pitch 4.
Jessica starting up the classic first pitch of Slot Machine.
(no trip report)


The Apron, The Chief 
Routes:
 THE BOTTOM LINE (3 pitches: 5.9, 5.9, 5.8) & OVER THE RAINBOW (6 pitches: 5.9, 5.8+, 5.9, 10a, 10a, 5.6)   

Date: June 8, 2014      Partners: Jessica Todd & Geoff Georges

Slabbing up Over the Rainbow.
(no trip report)


The Smoke Bluffs
CRAGGING AT THE SMOKE BLUFFS  

Routes: MOSQUITO (5.8, 1p) + a few other routes I can't remember

Date: June 8, 2014      Partners: Jessica Todd & Geoff Georges

(no trip report)


Western Dihedrals, The Chief 
Route:
 SUNSET STRIP  (9-12 pitches: 10c, 10a, 10b, 10c, 5.9, 10b, 10a, 5.8, 10d, 10a, 10d, 5.9)

Date: May 30, 2015    Partner: Jon Pobst

Trip Report #: 186

Western Dihedrals from the parking lot below the Grand Wall. Sunset Strip runs up the center of the photo.

Brief trip report: I'd had my eye on the 12-pitch Sunset Strip since I became aware of its existence in late 2013 (I think the route was established around this time, or perhaps the previous season). The route uses sections of other climbs, Sticky Fingers, Millennium Falcon, Crap Crags, and The Gauntlet, with about 70% new terrain to create a very direct and interesting line up the ChiefMost of the pitches are rated in the 5.10 range. I climbed the route with Jon Pobst in May 2015. We found the climbing to be more mellow than expected (not quite the  "very sustained 5.10" in the online route description and the pitches were so short it didn't feel like a 12 pitch route), but it is an excellent route and we had a fun day on the textured Squamish granite. 

Below are some photos from our climb. For more route beta and a great route topo, see http://squamishclimbingsource.com/sunset-strip/

Photos:
a.    
b.    
c.    
d.    
e.    
f.    
g.    
h.    
i.    
j.    
k.    
l.    
Photo descriptions:
a. Western Dihedrals from the parking lot below the Grand Wall. Sunset Strip runs up the center of the photo. 
b. Looking up from the base of the route. 12 pitches of 5.10ish climbing ahead!
c. Jon leading off Pitch 2, a fun 10a layback.
d. Jon leading off Pitch 4, a 10c off-fingers splitter crack. We agreed that this section of climbing seemed to be the crux section of the route, harder than the supposed 10d cruxes on a couple of the other pitches.
e. Looking up Pitch 5, a 5.9 box corner. I led this pitch. Fun climbing.
f. Jon nearing the top of Pitch 7, which has a fun 10a undercling near the top of the pitch.
g. Looking down at climbers (my friends Jess and Geoff actually!) on Pitch 10. This was a splitter hand/fist crack. I walked my #4 through the first 20 feet or so until the first bolt.
h. Jon 
starting off Pitch 11, which traverses right along underclings and face holds. There is a 10d crux move right before the anchor but it didn't seem too hard. This pitch is very well bolted and the exposure is great.
i. Jon in the 5.9 chimney of Pitch 12. Jon cruised on upward. This pitch was perhaps the most difficult pitch on the route for me.
j. 
Picturesque Squamish as seen from high on the Chief.
k. We finished off the day by doing laps on the first pitch of Exasperator, a classic finger crack test piece.
l. Shadow climbing on Exasperator.


Tantalus Wall, The Chief 
Route:
 MILK ROAD  (9 pitches: 5.9 A0 or 11b, 10c A0 or 11d, 10b, 10d, 10b, 5.8, 10a, 10c, 5.0) 

Date: May 31, 2015    Partner: Jon Pobst

Trip Report #: 187

Jon leading off the second pitch of Milk Run corner, which is Pitches 3-4 of Milk Road.

Brief trip report: I'd climbed Milk Run+Upper Tantalus Wall in 2007 with my friend Ross. This link-up ascended the lower half of the Milk Road route and then continued up right to Upper Tantalus Wall.  The pitches up Milk Run corner had been particularly excellent, and I was always curious about the rest of the Milk Road route that continues up to the left. So for our second day of climbing in Squamish (we'd climbed Sunset Strip the previous day), Jon and I decided to climb Milk Road. Below are some photos from our climb. Jon and I found Milk Road to be a high-quality climb that involves a satisfying amount of sustained 5.10 crack climbing. We really enjoyed this route.

Photos:
a.    
b.    
c.    
d.    
e.    
f.    
g.    
h.    
i.    
j.    
k.    
Photo descriptions:
a. Milk Road follows the best three pitches of Milk Run (the obvious left-facing corner in the photo) before following cracks above and a final dyke finish).
b. Looking up the route from the base. In this photo Jon is near the crux 11b (or A0) bolt-protected slab section of Pitch 1. He decided to attempt the moves free, and onsighted it. Impressive.
c. Jon leading off Pitch 2, which starts with some great climbing up an arching flake. 
d. Pitch 2 f
inishes with an A0 (or 11d) bolted traverse.
e. Looking up the Milk Run corner which comprises Pitches 3 and 4 of Milk Road. The first pitch is 10b while the second is 10d or 11a depending on the source. Excellent climbing ahead!
f. Looking down during my lead up the first Milk Run Corner pitch. 
g. Jon at the top of the first 
Milk Run Corner pitch.
h. Jon led the second 
Milk Run Corner pitch. The second corner pitch is a bit steeper than the first and even more excellent. 
i. I led the "Changing Corners" Pitch 5. It was a bit dirty but I really enjoyed the steep and juggy climbing.
j. Looking up the "Crescent Tower" chimney of Pitch 7. I had gotten into the leading mode and led this one as well. This pitch features a variety of 5.10a climbing: chimney to hand crack to finger traverse.
k. The last real pitch of the route is an airy and delicate foot traverse along a dike ("Crescent Dike"). "Spooky fun" for the leader, "this is cool! fun" for the follower.



The Papoose
CRAGGING AT THE PAPOOSE   

Routes: HAIRPIN (5 pitches: 5.8, 10a, 5.9, 5.6, 10a), MUSHROOM (5.9, 1p), & MERCURY VAPOUR (10a, 1p)

Date: May 8, 2016      Partner: John Plotz

Photos (L to R): Pitch 1 of Hairpin, looking down Mushroom, looking up at Mercury Vapour from the base.
(no trip report)


The Apron to Squamish Buttress Area
Route:
 ROCK ON (DIRECT START) (4 pitches: 10a, 10c, 10a, 5.7)  + SQUAMISH BUTTRESS (5 pitches: 5.8, 5.7, 5.9, 10c, 5.6)   

Date: May 14, 2016    Partner: Jon Pobst

Trip Report #: 220

Overlay of our link-up. 
Brief trip report: This link up is a fun way to the summit of the First Peak of the Chief, involving 4 pitches of 5.10 climbing and 5 pitches of moderate (5.6-5.9) climbing. We were happy to find Rock On mostly dry, as this route is notorious for being wet in the spring.

Photos:
           
Photo descriptions (first to last):
- Pitch 1 of Rock On.
- Crux 10c pitch of Rock On Direct.
- Crux 10c pitch of Squamish Buttress.
- Welcome to the top of the First Peak!


The Smoke Bluffs
CRAGGING AT THE SMOKE BLUFFS   

Routes: PICKET LINE (5.9, 1p), COLD COMFORT (5.9, 1p)

Date: May 14, 2016      Partner: Jon Pobst
 
Photo: Picket Line.
(no trip report)


Slhanay (The Squaw)
Route:
 THE GREAT GAME  (4 pitches: 10d, 5.7, 10c, 10c)

Date: May 15, 2016      Partner: Jon Pobst

Photos: L: Pitch 1 as seen from Birds of Prey; 
R: the 10c corner of Pitch 3 goes left while Great Drain goes right.
(no trip report)


The Sheriff's Badge, The Chief
Route:
 BLAZING SADDLES (Borderline: 2 pitches: 10b, 5.8; Blazing Saddles: 2 pitches: 10a, 10b)   

Date: June 4, 2016      Partner: Todd Anderson
 
Pitch 2 of Blazing Saddles.
(no trip report)


The Apron, The Chief
Routes:
 CALCULUS CRACK (6 pitches: 5.7, 5.8, 5.6, 5.8, 5.7, 5.0) + KAREN'S MATH (1 pitch: 10a)   

Date: June 4, 2016      Partner: Todd Anderson
   
Photos: L: Todd nearing the top of Pitch 3 of Calculus Crack (you know it's steep when the road is vertical!); R: the fun 10a flake of Karen's Math (which you can tack onto Calculus Crack to get to Memorial/Broadway Ledge).
(no trip report)


The Malamute
CRAGGING AT THE MALAMUTE   

Routes: GRUB STREET COMPLEX (4 pitches: 5.9, 10a, 10c, 5.8), GRUB STREET PITCH 1 (11a, 1p), HIGH MOUNTAIN WOODY (5.9, 1p), SLAP AND TICKLE (10b, 1p), PAUL'S CRACK (10a, 1p), UNDER THE MERCY (5.9, 1p)

Date: June 5, 2016      Partner: Todd Anderson
     
Photos: L: Looking up Grub Street Complex from the base (starts in corner on the left); R: Awesome 5.9 climbing on High Mountain Woody
(no trip report)


Slhanay (The Squaw)
Route: BIRDS OF PREY (4-6 pitches: 5.8/5.8, 10b, 5th, 10b/5.8)  

Date: May 28, 2017      Partner: DR
     
Photos: L: Slhanay; R: DR leading up the corner on Pitch 3 of Birds of Prey (this corner was my favorite section of the route, but the part just above the corner (hard with a pendulum fall potential) was my least favorite).
(no trip report)


The Sheriff's Badge, The Chief 
Route:
 BORDERLINE + (UPPER) ANGEL'S CREST (Borderline: 6p: 10b, 5.8, 10d, 10a, 10a, 10d;  Angel's Crest Pitches 7-13: 10a, 5.9, 5.5, 5.8, 10a, 10a, 5.8)

Date: May 29, 2017    Partner: DR

Trip Report #: 247
Route overlay of Borderline. From Squamish Rock Guides website.

Route overlay of Angel's Crest. From Squamish Rock Guides website.

Brief trip report: This is a great 13-pitch link-up, with half the pitches at the 5.10 level. It was a hot day, but we stayed mostly in the shade until we popped onto the South Summit at 3pm. Fun day!

Photos:
a.    
b.    
c.    
d.    
e.    
f.    
g.    
h.    
i.    
j.    
k.    
l.    
m.    
n.    
o.    
p.    
q.    
Photo descriptions:
a. Looking up from base of route. A sort of grungy start to good stuff above.
b. The corner on the second half of Pitch 1.
c. 5.8 corner of Pitch 2.
d. 
Bolted 10d face on Pitch 3.
e. FInger crack above the face on on Pitch 3.
f. Looking down the offwidth. 
g. Joxxx
.
h. 10d face climbing on Pitch 6

i. The end of the route at the top of Pitch 6. From here, you can either rap the route (2 ropes) or go left about 300 feet to join Angel's Crest and climb to the top of The Chief (which is what we did). 
j. The grungy 5.8 between the end of Borderline and Angel's Crest. The climbing is pretty easy and it's actually not too dirty by Squamish off-route standards.
k. The offwidth variation on Pitch 8 of Angel's Crest. Someday I'd like to climb this pitch, but it would involve lugging a #6 up the route....
l. The standard 5.9 route on Pitch 8. Good climbing.
m. 
The Acrophobes (Pitch 9).
n. 
The Acrophobes (Pitch 9).
o. A 10a variation on Pitch 11.
p. The steep 10a crack on Pitch 12.
q. On top!


Grand Wall base area, The Chief
Rou
te: PEASANT'S ROUTE  (6 pitches: 10a, 10c, 10a, 5.5, 5.8, 10b)    

Date: June 3, 2017      Partner: Cindy Beavon

Looking up Pitch 1. The first 50 feet of the route often seep but the rest of the route stays drier.
(no trip report)


The Apron to Squamish Buttress area, The Chief
Route:
 ST. VITUS' DANCE (DIRECT VARIATION) (3 pitches: 5.7, 10a, 5.8)  SOUTH ARETE (3 pitches: 5.9, 5.9, 5th)  + KAREN'S MATH (1 pitch: 10a)  + MEMORIAL CRACK (1 pitch: 5.9)  + SQUAMISH BUTTRESS (5 pitches: 5.8, 5.7, 5.9, 10c, 5.6)   

Date: June 4, 2017    Partner: Cindy Beavon

Trip Report #: 248
  
Overlay of our link-up.
Brief trip report: This link up is a fun way to the summit of the First Peak of the Chief, involving a lot of moderate (5.7-5.9) climbing with lots of variety with the occasional challenging (5.10) section. Cindy and I had a great day.

Photos:
                     
Photo descriptions (first to last):
- Awesome crack on Pitch 3 of St. Vitus' Dance.
- Slabby climbing on South Arete route.
- Unique flake feature on Karen's Math.
- Memorial Crack.
- The stellar 10c pitch on Squamish Buttress.
- On top of the First Peak.


Fluffy Kitten Wall, Mamquam FSR
Route:
 
THE WONDERFUL THING ABOUT TIGGERS  (7 pitches: 5.9, 5.8, 5.7, 10b, 10a, 11a or 10c A0, 5.9)

Date: July 30, 2017    Partner: Chris Oleson

Trip Report #: 258

The 600-ft Fluffy Kitten Wall (left wall) from the road. The Wonderful Thing About Tiggers, shown in red, goes to the top.

Brief trip report: For some reason (perhaps the somewhat rough road — my Subaru was just find though — and 40 minute uphill approach), this route does not get much traffic. But it is a superb route, featuring 600 feet of super solid granite and well-protected splitter cracks and corners and flakes. The pitches are not strenuous or stressful, just long and enjoyable. Being north facing, it is an excellent choice for a hot summer day. Thanks Chris for responding to my MP post and climbing this route with me!

Photos:
a.    
b.    
c.    
d.    
e.    
f.    
g.    
h.    
i.    
j.    
k.    
l.    
m.    
n.    
o.    
p.    
q.    
r.    
s.    
t.    
u.    
v.    
Photo descriptions:
a. To get to Fluffy Kitten Wall, drive up Mamquam FS Road and then up the road marked Stawamus Community Watershed.
b. Sign for Fluffy Kitten Wall where we parked at a large washout.
c. Rope bridge crossing creek between the road and the hillside leading up to Fluffy Kitten Wall.
d. Chris crossing the rope bridge.
e. Steep but easy-to-follow trail.
f. Fixed rope leading up to Tigger Ledge at the base of the route.
g. Chris starting off Pitch 1, which climbs the corner in the background.
h. Looking down Pitch 1.
i. Pitch 2.
j. Pitch 3.
k. Pitch 3.
l. Pitch 4.
m. Pitch 4.
n. Pitch 4
o. Pitch 5.
p. Pitch 6.
q. Pitch 6.
r. Pitch 7.
s. The final corner of Pitch 7 is kind of dirty. I think it gets runoff from above.
t. Blueberries on Pitch 7.
u. The view from the top of the route.
v. Looking down on where we parked at a large washout.



Murrin Park
CRAGGING AT MURRIN PARK

Routes: MORE THAN JUST A PRETTY FACE (10c, 1p), THE REACHAROUND (5.9, 1p), UNNAMED TO RIGHT OF REACHAROUND (11+ or 5.9 A0, 1p), BURNING DOWN THE COUCH (11d, 1p), HEAVY PETTING ACTION (10b, 1p), THE WORLD'S TOUGHEST MILKMAN (5.9, 1p)

Date: Sept 3, 2017      Partners: Kevin Piarulli, Hayley Piarulli, & Jake Dontknowlastname
     
Photos: L: Kevin leading The Reacharound; R: Looking down the flake feature on The World's Toughest Milkman.
(no trip report)


Shannon Falls
CRAGGING AT SHANNON FALLS

Routes: SKYWALKER (5 pitches: 5.7, 5.8, 5.7, 5.6, 5.4), EPB (10a, 1p), DR. WATTS (10b, 1p), JUMP TO LIGHT SPEED (10c, 1p), POULTRY IN MOTION (10d, 1p), CHEWBACCA (3 pitches: 10-, 5.9, 10-) 

Date: May 12, 2018      Partner: DR
Photos (L to R): Pitch 2 of Skywalker, Let the Force Be With You at the top of Pitch 3 of Skywalker, looking down Jump to Light Speed, Pitch 1 of Chewbacca.
(no trip report)


The Smoke Bluffs
CRAGGING AT THE SMOKE BLUFFS   

Routes: PENNY LANE (5.9, 1p), QUARRYMAN (5.8, 1p), POP EYE AND THE RAVEN (10c, 1p), CLANDESTINE AFFAIR (5.9, 1p), UP UP AND AWAY (5.9, 1p), WITCH DOCTOR'S APPRENTICE (5.9, 1p), POWER WINDOWS (11a, 1p), CORNFLAKES (5.7, 1p), LAYBACK FLAKE (5.9, 1p), FLYING CIRCUS (10a, 1p), NEAT AND COOL (10a, 1p)

Date: May 13, 2018      Partner: DR
Photos (L to R): Penny Lane, Quarryman, Morning light on Squamish from Smoke Bluffs, Witch Doctor's Apprentice, Layback Flake and Cornflakes, Flying Circus. 
(no trip report)


Cheakamus Canyon - Chek
CRAGGING AT CHEK   

Routes: SAVAGE BEAGLE (10a, 1p), KIGIJIUSHI (10c, 1p), DARK DON'T LIE (11a, 1p)

Date: June 2, 2018      Partner: Noah Besen
Looking down from the top of Savage Beagle on The Main Event.
(no trip report)


The Smoke Bluffs
CRAGGING AT THE SMOKE BLUFFS   

Routes: SUPERVALUE (10c, 1p), PICKET LINE (5.9, 1p), ERICA (10b, 1p), THE GMB (10a, 1p), BACKSLAPPER CRACK (10c, 1p)TWENTY-MINUTE WORKOUT (10b, 1p), LOONY FRINGE (10c, 1p), THE GIFT (5.6, 1p)

Date: June 2, 2018      Partner: Noah Besen
Photos (L to R): Supervalue, The GMB, Backslapper Crack, Twenty-Minute Workout.
(no trip report)


The North Walls, The Chief
Route:
 
NEW LIFE (5 pitches: 10b, 11b, 10c, 11b, 10b) + PARALLEL PASSAGES  (Top 6 pitches: 10b A0, 10a, 10b, low 5th, 10b+10a, 10b)     

Date: Aug 15, 2018    Partner: Chris Cox

Trip Report #: 312

Route overlays for New Life + Parallel Passages.

Brief trip report: Chris and I combined New Life (a Top 100 climb) with the upper half of Parallel Passages (apparently the better pitches on the route, especially since the 2015 rockfall damaged the lower pitches) for a full day of climbing to the top of the North Walls. Every pitch is 5.10 or higher, with a fair bit of wide and burly climbing. Being on the shady North Walls, these routes are a great choice for a summer day. But it was an unusually humid day, so we were usually drenched in sweat by the time we finished each pitch. Still, it was an awesome day of climbing and I highly recommend this link-up.

Photos:
a.    
b.    
c.    
d.    
e.    
f.    
g.    
h.    
i.    
j.    
k.    
l.    
m.    
n.    
o.    
Photo descriptions:
a. These signs were useful.
b. Looking up the start of New Life.
c. Pitch 1 of New Life.
d. 
Pitch 2 of New Life.
e. Pitch 3 of New Life..
f. Pitch 4 of New Life..
g. 
Pitch 5 of New Life.
h. Fixed lines between the top of New Life and Astro Ledge.
i. Pitch 5 of Parallel Passages (just above Astro Ledge).
j. Pitch 6 of Parallel Passages.
k. 
Pitch 7 of Parallel Passages. A #5 was nice to have on this route.
l. Pitch 8 of Parallel Passages..
m. 
Pitch 9 of Parallel Passages.
n. Pitch 9b of Parallel Passages (we broke Pitch 9 as described in the guidebook into 2 pitches, which seemed to make sense, especially since there was a bolted anchor on a nice ledge mideay through the pitch).
o. Pitch 10 of Parallel Passages.


Slhanay (The Squaw)
Route:
 
RIGHT WING  (4-6 pitches: 5.8+5.8, 10c, 10d+10d, 10c or 10d)     

Date: Aug 16, 2018      Partner: Chris Cox

Right Wing climbs the obvious arching corner up the center of Slhanay. "The Filibuster. A blockbuster lead, going through all the sizes. Not a move harder than 10b, not a move easier than 10a... for 58m. Prepare for battle." (We led the corner as 2 pitches: I led the first half while Chris led the second half.)
(no trip report)

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