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Mt. TEMPLE Route: Northeast Buttress (aka Greenwood-Jones) (5.10, 4500', Grade V)  or East Ridge (5.7-5.9, 3500')

Category: British Columbia/Alberta      Trip Report #xxx
Partner: xxx
Rock Type: Shale, Quartzite, & Limestone
Summit Elev: 3,543 m / 11,630 ft

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TRIP REPORT TEMPLATE
for when I climb this route






















INTRO

I'd wanted to climb Mt. Temple ever since I flew past it doing aerial photography with John Scurlock in May 2012.

Mt. Temple is the "Eiger of the Canadian Rockies", on account of its impressive mile-high north face, which can be seen from the Lake Louise area and the Trans-Canada Highway. The walk-up route up the SW Ridge — which I had done in 2010 — is one of the most travelled routes in the Rockies.

The East Ridge is a classic outing and a quintessential moderate ridge route of the Canadian Rockies. It is longer and more difficult than the East Ridge of Edith Cavell. Its "Big Step" start is a real Rockies treat with the hardest climbing on a wall of excellent quartzite. Its modern popularity is in part due to its inclusion in Steck and Roper's Fifty Classic Climbs on North America.


East Ridge (5.7-5.9, 3500')

OVERLAY



PHOTOS

Photos:
Photo descriptions:
Approach 
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Climb - Lower Ridge
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Climb - Upper Ridge
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Descent: SW Ridge to Sentinel Pass and trail
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The north face routes are the big prizes on Mt. Temple. Unformutaely, several of them are exposed to high objective hazards posed by collapsing seracs of the N glacier and rockfall from the upper face. The Greenwood-Jones route (aka Northeast Buttress) takes the rib that delineates the boundary between the N and NE faces and provides the safest route on this side of the mountain. The rock rib ends on the lower east corner of the summit glacier, so crampons and ice axe are needed for the final summit snowfield. The climb starts out easy and becomes professively harder, culmnating in the sensationally exposed exit pitches, and finishes with a walk in the sky along the last section of the east ridge.

Northeast Buttress (aka Greenwood-Jones) (5.10, 4500')

OVERLAY



PHOTOS

Photos:
Photo descriptions:
Approach 
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Climb
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Descent: SW Ridge to Sentinel Pass and trail
   
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