THE CHIEF, Ultimate Everything (Squamish) (5.9 A0 (or 11b), 23 pitches)

Category: British Columbia/Alberta      Trip Report #: 24
Partner: Jason Cullum

With the rain of BC, I had not been able to do much climbing in nearby Squamish, so the first decent weekend my friend and I made the 2 hour drive to the Chief, with plans to climb the Ultimate Everything, a 23 pitch route up the left of the Chief. The route began with the slabby gear route called Banana Peel (5.6) on the Apron, then jumped onto the fun 2-pitch Broomstick Crack (5.7), and then followed a trail to the beginning of the final 10 pitches to the summit. These pitches ranged from 5.7 to 5.9, and were a mix of gear and bolts. A couple of the pitches were pretty wet still, making climbing interesting. The final pitch had an 11b move that we aided (ie. pulled on a draw) to get past, although given fresh fingers, a few tries, a bit of thought, and no heavy pack, I think I could do this move clean. Next objective on the Chief: the Grand Wall.....

The tortuous 23 pitch Ultimate Everything route up the Chief.