California CLIMBING/HIKING/FLYING TRIP REPORTS


This page provides links to my climbing trip reports in California. Drawn by the the splitter granite cracks and stable weather, I've made several road trips to California over the years, climbing in Yosemite, Tuolumne, the High Sierra, Whitney Portal, Tahoe area, the Needles, Joshua Tree, and the South Cascades. 
You can access the trip reports by clicking on the interactive map below, scrolling to the list below that, or using the sidebar to the left.


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KEY:
ROUTES: Favorites are in red.
LINKS: SummerFallWinterSpring conditions.

JOSHUA TREE NATIONAL PARK
TRIP ROUTES DATE / LINK
• Winter break 2016 (5.5 days and 40+ climbs) The Mikado, Duchess, Duchess Right, The Castrum, Marchesa, Swishbah, Coyote in the Bush, Tranquility, Frosty Cone, Scrumdillyishus, The Chief, Pops Goes Hawaiian, Fender Bender, Love Shack, Mike's Books, The Waterchute, Underpass, Hands Off, Double Cross, Toe Jam, Gem, Spiderman, Colorado Crack, Boulderado, Fool's Gold, Take Five, The Morning After, Maiden Voyage, Popular Mechanics, Ace of Spades, Card Chimney, Jack of Hearts, Unnamed, The Flake, The Eye, White Lightning, Poodles Are People Too, Overseer, Overseer Direct, Hernie Hernie Hernie Dec'16
• Winter break 2017 (climbing with my sister, 5 days and 30+ climbs) Breakfast of Champions, Solid Gold, Unconscious Obscenity, Dazed and Confused, Mental Physics, Creeping Jew, Sail Away, Wild Wind, No Calculators Allowed, Chocolate is Better Than Sex, Count on Your Fingers, Congratulations, Ain't Nothing but a J-Tree Thing, The Great Chasm aka Chasm of Doom, Nurn's Romp, Exorcist, Lazy Day, Dog Day Afternoon, Heart of Darkness, Southwest Corner, CrypticHeart and Sole, Quick Draw McGraw, The Falcon & The Snowman, Touch and Go, The Gold Hunk, Effigy Too, Hatfields and McCoys, Wangerbanger, O'Kelley's Crack, Bird on a Wire, Circus, E.B.G.B.'s Dec'17

NEEDLES
Map of Needles I put together when planning my 2017 trip there.
SUMMIT / AREA ROUTE DATE / LINK
 The CHARLATAN 1. Fancy Free (5.10b, 3p, 400')
2. Spooky (5.9, 2p, 175')
3. Summit spire, aka Our Lady of the Needles (5.7, 1p, 45')
1.  Jul'17
2.  Jul'17
     Jun'18
3. 
 Jul'17
     Jun'18
• DOME Rock 1. Tobin's Dihedral (5.10+, 1p, 160')
2. Arch Bitch-Up (5.8, 3p, 450')
1.  Jul'17
2.  Jul'17
• HERMIT Spire • South Face Route (5.8+, 6p, 950')
Jul'17
• The NECROMANCER • Silver Threads (5.10b, 3p, 400')
 Jun'18
 The SORCERER 1. Atlantis (5.11c, 4p, 500')
2. Don Juan Wall Pitches 1-2 (5.11, 5p, 500')
3. Lost at Sea (5.10d, 1p, 80')
4. Thin Ice (5.10b, 2p, 450')
1.  Jun'18
2.  Jun'18
3.  Jun'18
4.  Jun'18
• The WITCH 1. Airy Interlude (5.10a, 3p, 400')
2. Igor Unchained (5.9, 4p, 400')
3. Inner Sanctum (5.9, 3p, 500')
4. Spook Book (5.10d, 3p, 500')
1.  Jul'17
2.  Jul'17
3.  Jun'18
4. 
 Jun'18
 The WARLOCK 1. The Howling (5.10a, 2p, 250')
2.
Imaginary Voyage (5.9, 4p, 600')

3. S Crack (5.10, 7-8p, 800')
4. South Face Route w/ S Crack start variation (5.9+, 8p, 800')
1.  Jun'18
2. 
 Jul'17
3.  Jul'17
4.  Jul'17
• The WITCH 1. Airy Interlude (5.10a, 3p, 400')
2. Igor Unchained (5.9, 4p, 400')
1.  Jul'17
2.  Jul'17
• The WIZARD • Yellow Brick Road (5.9, 3p, 300')  Jul'17

SIERRA
SUMMIT ROUTE DATE / LINK
(Alpine) Climbs
• BEAR CREEK Spire North Arête (5.8, 800') Aug'13
 CARDINAL Pinnacle 1. Crack Kingdom (5.10c, 5p, 550')
2. V8 Crack (5.10d, 1p, 80')
3. West Face (5.10a, 4p, 500')
1.  Aug'15
2.  Aug'15
3.  Sep'13
• CLYDE Minaret Southeast Face w/ direct start (5.10a, 1400') Jul'15
• Mt. CONNESS 1. North Ridge (5.6, 80', solo descent)
2. SW Face (Harding Route) (5.10c, 1200')
3. West Ridge (5.6, 1500', solo ascent)
1.  Aug'15
2.  Aug'15
3.  Aug'15
• Mt. GOODE North Buttress (5.9, 800') Aug'15
• INCREDIBLE HULK 1. Red Dihedral (5.10b, 1200', car-to-car in 2015)
2. Positive Vibrations (5.11a, 1500')
1. Sep'13/ Aug'15
2. Sep'13
• KEELER Needle Harding Route (5.10c, 1500') Jun'18
• LONE PINE Peak North Ridge (5.5) Jul'18
• MERRIAM Peak North Buttress (5.10b, 1000') Sep'13
• NORMAN CLYDE Peak 1. Firebird Ridge (5.9)
2. Twilight Pillar (5.9)
1.  Jun'13
2.  Jun'13
• OUTGUARD Spire East Face Direct (5.10d, 800', 6p) Sep'16
• PALISADE Crest North to South (IV, 5.8) Jun'13
• Mt. RITTER from Ediza Lake (3rd) Oct'05
• ROSY FINCH Peak North Ridge (4th) Nov'05
 Mt. RUSSELL 1. Bloody Corner (5.10+, 800')
2. 
Fishhook Arête (5.9, 700')
3. Mithral Dihedral (5.9+, 700')
4. Star Trekkin' (5.10-, 700')
5. Western Front (5.10+, 900')
1.  Aug'15
2.
  Aug'13
3.  Jul'15
4.  Aug'15
5.  Jul'15
• SPLIT Mountain North Ridge (3rd) Sep'05
• TEMPLE CRAG Dark Star (V, 5.10c, 2000') Jul'15
• THIRD PILLAR of DANA Regular Route (5.10b, 5p, 600') Jun'13/ Aug'15
 Mt. WHITNEY 1. East Buttress (5.7, 1000')
2. East Face (5.7, 1000')
3. via JMT trail (2nd)
1.  Jul'15
2.  Jul'15
3.  Sep'05
 WHITNEY PORTAL Area 1. Bony Fingers (5.10c, 2-3p, 350')
2. No Country For Old Men (5.10c, 8p, 1250')
1.  Jun'18
2.
  Jun'18
Multi-Day/Peak Expeditions
• EVOLUTION Traverse Peak 13,360 - MENDEL - DARWIN - Peak 13,332 - HAECKEL - WALLACE - FISKE - WARLOW - HUXLEY Jul'17
• JOHN MUIR Trail North to South, 222 miles Sep'05
• PALISADE Traverse THUNDERBOLT-STARLIGHT-N PALISADE-[POLEMONIUM-SILL not reached] (5th) Jun'10
 Tour de PALISADES NORMAN CLYDE Peak Firebird Ridge (5.9), NORMAN CLYDE Peak Twilight Pillar (5.9), PALISADE CREST (5.8) Jun'13

SOUTH CASCADES
SUMMIT / AREA ROUTE DATE / LINK
Aerial Adventure
• CASCADE VOLCANOES Aerial Photography Tour (winter conditions)
Rainier, Adams, Hood, Jefferson, Three Sisters, Crater Lake, Shasta, Lassen, St. Helens, and more! Jan'13
Alpine Climbs
• Mt. SHASTA 1. Casaval Ridge (snowy 3rd)
2. Green Butte/Sergeant's Ridge (snowy 3rd)
1. Apr'05/ May'05
2. May'05

TAHOE AREA
SUMMIT / AREA ROUTE DATE / LINK
• 5 Days at Lover's Leap (10 routes) 1. Surrealistic Pillar (w/ Direct start) (5.10b, 2-3p, 270')
2.Traveler Buttress (5.9, 4p, 500')
3. The Line (5.9, 2-3p, 400')
4. Eagle Buttress, Right (5.10a, 4-5p, 600')
5. Hospital Corner (5.10a, 2p, 240')
6. Vanishing Point (5.10b, 2p+, 250')
7. Tombstone Terror (5.10c, 1-2p, 80-160')
8. Eeyore's Enigma (5.10, 4p, 500')
9. Scimitar (5.9R, 3p, 300')
10. Fantasia (5.9R, 3p, 300')
Aug'15

TUOLUMNE
SUMMIT / AREA ROUTE DATE / LINK
Climbs
• CATHEDRAL Peak • SE Buttress (5.6, 700')  Jun'13 
Aug'13
• COCKSCOMB • via Cathedral Traverse, 4th Jun'13
• DRUG Dome 1. Crystal Meth (5.8 R-, 3p, 300')
2. 
Oz (5.10d, 4p, 500')
1.  Jul'15
2.  Jun'07
     Jul'15
• ECHO Peaks • via Cathedral Traverse, 3rd to 5.7 Jun'13
• EICHORN Pinnacle 1. North Face (5.4, 100')
2. West Pillar direct (5.10b, 700')
1.  Jun'13
2.
  Aug'15
 FAIRVIEW Dome 1. Lucky Streaks (5.10d, 6p, 600')
2. North Face aka Regular Route (5.9, 5-12p, 900')
1.  Jun'07
2. 
 Aug'13
 LAMB Dome 1. Little Sheeba (5.10a, 1p, 90')
2. On the Lamb (5.9, 4p, 500') with Sleeper P3 (5.8 R) / Jailbreak P4 (5.9 R-) finish
1.  Jul'15
2.  Jul'15
• LEMBERT Dome 1. Direct Northwest Face (5.10b, 4p, 400')
2. Truck'N Drive (5.9 R, 3p, 300')
1.  Jul'15
2.  Jul'15
• MARIUOLUMNE Dome 1. Hobbit Book (5.7 R, 4p, 500')
2. Serrated Edge (5.10b, 4p, 500')
1.  Jul'15
2.  Jul'15
• MATTHES Crest South to North (5.7, 1 mile) Aug'13
• MOUNTAINEERS Dome American Wet Dream (5.10b R, 5p, 500') Jul'15
• PYWIACK Dome 1. Aqua Knobby (5.9, 4p, 400')
2. Dike Route (5.9, 4.5-6p, 450-600')
1.  Jul'15
2. 
 Jul'15
• TENAYA Peak • NW Buttress (5.5, 1500') Aug'13
• UNICORN Peak • via Cathedral Traverse, 4th Jun'13
Multi-Day/Peak Expeditions
 CATHEDRAL Traverse CATHEDRAL Peak SE Buttress (5.6, 700') - EICHORN Pinnacle N Face (5.4) - ECHO Peaks (3rd to 5.7) - ECHO Ridge (3rd) - COCKSCOMB (4th) - UNICORN Peak (4th) Jun'13
 "TMC Linkup" TENAYA Peak NW Buttress (5.5, 1500') - MATTHES Crest (5.7, 1 mile) - CATHEDRAL Peak SE Buttress (5.6, 700') Aug'13

YOSEMITE
SUMMIT / AREA ROUTE DATE / LINK
• ARCH Rock 1. Gripper (5.10b, 2p, 300')
2. New Dimensions (5.11a, 4p, 400')
Jun'07
• CHURCH Bowl • Cragging: Bishop's Terrace (5.8, 1p, 195'), Church Bowl Lieback (5.8, 1p, 130'), Pole Position (5.10a, 1p, 130')  Jun'18
 EL CAPITAN 1. East Buttress (5.10b, 13p, 1400')
2. The Nose in 3 days (14a or 5.9 C2, 28+p, 2900')
3. Cragging at Base (La Cosita Left, La Cosita Right, Sacherer Cracker, Moby Dick, Little John Left)
1.  Sep'16
2.  Jun'17
3.  Jun'17
     Jun'18
• FIVE OPEN BOOKS 1. Commitment (5.9, 3p, 350')
2. Selaginella (5.8, 4p, 450')
Jun'17
• HALF Dome Regular NW Face (5.9 C2, 24p, 2200') Jun'07 
Jun'17
• HIGHER CATHEDRAL Rock 1. Braille Book (5.8, 6p, 700')
2. Northeast Buttress (5.9+, 11p, 900')
1.  Oct'05
     Jun'17
2.  Sep'16
• HIGHER CATHEDRAL Spire • Regular Route (5.9, 5p, 300') Jun'07 
Jun'17
• LOWER BROTHER 1. Absolutely Free (5.9, 3p, 400')
2. Positively 4th Street (5.9, 1p, 150')
Jun'17
• MANURE PILE Buttress Nutcracker (5.8, 5p, 600') Sep'16
 MIDDLE CATHEDRAL Rock 1. Central Pillar of Frenzy (5.9, 5p, 550')
2. East Buttress (5.10c or 5.9 A0, 11p, 1100')
3. Ho Chi Minh Trail (5.11, 20p, 2000')
4. Kor-Beck (5.9, 5p, 600')
1. Jun'07
     Jul'15
     Jun'17
2.  Sep'16
3. Jun'07
4.  Jun'17
• REED'S Pinnacle Area Cragging: Reed's Pinnacle Direct (5.10a, 3p, 300'), Bong's Away, Left (5.8, 1p, 90'), Lunatic Fringe (5.10c, 1p, 140'), Stone Groove (5.10b, 1p, 80') Jun'07
 Jun'18
 ROYAL Arches Area 1. Royal Arches (5.7, 16p, 1400')
2. Serenity Crack (5.10d, 3p, 400')
3. Sons of Yesterday (5.10a, 5p, 500')
4. Super Slide (5.9, 5p, 500')
1. Dec'05
2.  Jun'07
     Jul'15
3.  Jul'15
4.  Jun'18
• SCHULTZ'S Ridge The Moratorium Pitches 1-2 (5.11d, 3-4p, 350-500') Jun'18
• SENTINEL 1. Chouinard-Herbert (5.11c or 5.9 C2, 12p, 1400')
2. 
Steck-Salathe (5.10b, 15p, 1600')
1.  Jun'17
2. 
Jun'07

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