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Mt. WHITNEY Route: Hairline (5.10d C2+, 2000', 12p)

Category: California      Trip Report ####
Partner: xxx
Rock Type: Granite
Summit Elev: 
14,505 ft

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TRIP REPORT TEMPLATE
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INTRO

from Summitpost:
Hairline was rebolted in August 2004 by the ASCA. 3/8" bolts replaced the old 1/4" bolts on the free climbing of pitch 1, and most belay anchors were upgraded as well.

One attached photo shows the ASCA party in action, looking up at the 10th and 11th pitches of Hairline from where it crosses the East Face Route. The big roof near the top center of the photo is midway up pitch 11.

Established in 1987, this route was at the time the hardest route on Mt. Whitney. With the increase in standards since that time, Hairline is now well within reach of many backcountry climbers. 

The length, quality and difficulty are comparable to the Prow on Washington Column in Yosemite, with a few exceptions which old5ten points out below --

"There are a few distinct differences that make 'Hairline' harder, some that make it easier. Overall 'Hairline' is a more serious undertaking. 

Harder: 
1.) The approach to 'Hairline' is longer and much more sustained. 
2.) The approach, climb, and descent are at significantly higher altitude. 
3.) Most of the pitches on 'Hairline' are longer. 
4.) This is not YOSAR country (although we did have climbers camped at nearby Iceberg Lake yell and ask if we were 'stuck' and needed help as we're rapping back to Frisbee Ledge after fixing lines). 
5.) 'Hairline' has some hooking and the 'Lasso' - technically slightly more challenging than the 'Prow.' 

Easier: 
There's relatively little aid (3 pitches) and much moderate (5.9-10a) free climbing."

from MP:
Hairline tackles the line of highest resistance up the steepest portion of Mt Whitney's full East Face. Brutus of Wide claimed this was his "proudest first ascent", but even with these grand accolades the route has seen little traffic since the late 80's FA. The logistics of technical big-walling at 14,000' and the heavy aid rack has likely kept many potential suitors at bay. The topo does an excellent job of describing the route, so I will keep things minimal to preserve the adventure. 2 pitches of free climbing lead to the crux of the route - 3 pitches of dramatically and continuously overhanging clean aid. Above P5, sustained and quality crack climbing are the name of the game. The route crosses the standard East Face line at the end of P9, and there is some rockfall hazard below that point from parties above. The route was rebolted by the ASCA in 2004 during the second ascent. 

Steepest, blankest portion of Whitney's full East Face. Descend the Mountaineers Route back to your camp below.
Double cams from tiny to 3", single 4-6". Set of stoppers including micros, 1 each talon, beak, skyhook and camhook


TIME STATS

Car to camp: x hours x minutes
Camp to base of route: x hours x minutes
Climb route: x hours x minutes
Descent top to camp: x hours x minutes
Camp to car: x hours x minutes


OVERLAY



PHOTOS FROM CLIMB

We did the climb in __ pitches...


Photos:
Photo descriptions:
Approach 

1.    
1. xxx
2. xxx
3. xxx
4. xxx
5. xxx
6. xxx
7. xxx
8. xxx
9. xxx
10. xxx
11. xxx

12. xxx
13. xxx
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22. xxx
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30. xxx
31. xxx

32. xxx
33. xxx
34. xxx
35. xxx
36. xxx
37. xxx
38. xxx
39. xxx
Pitch 
1
5.10d or 5.9 A0

2. xxx

Pitch 
2
5.9
   
3. xxx
Pitch 
3
C1F or A2
   
4. xxx
Pitch 
4
5.7 A1 or C2+
   
5. xxx
Pitch 
5
5.9 C2?
 
6. xxx
Pitch 
6
5.9
   
10. xxx
Pitch 
7
5.7
   
10. xxx
Pitch 
8
5.10a
   
10. xxx
Pitch 
9
5.9
   
10. xxx
Pitch 
10
5.8
   
10. xxx
Pitch 
11
5.9 C1
   
10. xxx
Pitch 
12
5.8
   
10. xxx
Top! 
Several hundred feet of 3rd-4th to top
   
13. xxx
Top! 
14,505'
   
13. xxx
Descent 
xxx
   
13. xxx


OTHER PHOTOS

Photos:
Photo descriptions:
1.    
1. xxx