(LIST OF CLIMBS + 1 "TRIP REPORT")
Category: Colorado
Elev: ~7000 ft
Rock Type: Granite
 
2018-2019
 

BOULDER CANYON Climbing


Boulder Canyon is located mere minutes west of Boulder. The rock is granite, smooth in places but for the most part highly textured. The canyon has a wide variety of climbing types, both sport and trad, and nice scenery above the highway. The soaring granite walls of Upper Dream Canyon off the Sugarloaf Road provide some of the areas longest routes and a good mix of sport and trad in a seemingly remote setting high above the Boulder Canyon floor.


The crags rise right above the highway.

The first time I climbed in Boulder Canyon was in July 2018, for one day, in between bigger objectives in RMNP.  I didn't know it at the time, but a year later I would be living in Boulder and the climbs in Boulder Canyon would be a mere half hour from my home. 

Since Boulder Canyon is now my local crag, I just keep a list of the climbs I've done there (on this page). Below the list, I've also included my original trip report from the first day I climbed here.



ON THIS PAGE:

LINK
List of climbs I've done in Boulder Canyon
2018 trip report (1st trip to Boulder Canyon: 1 day of cragging)
JULY
13
2018

  TR #: 298
Other random photos from cragging in Boulder Canyon



(Pitifully small)List of climbs I've done in Boulder Canyon

(Alphabetical order)
CLIMB DIFFICULTY AREA

Color-coded:
   =Boulder Canyon East North Side (sunny)
   =Boulder Canyon West North Side (sunny)
   =Boulder Canyon East South Side (shady, must cross creek)
   =Boulder Canyon West South Side (shady, must cross creek)
   =Lower Dream Canyon (sun & shade)
   =Upper Dream Canyon (sun & shade)
DATE CLIMBED

Color-coded: 
Spring
Summer
Fall
Winter
Cosmosis 5.10a, 1p, trad Bell Buttress July 13, 2018
Deep, The 5.11c, 1p, sport Oceanic Wall July 16, 2019
Empor 5.7+, 2-3p, trad Cob Rock July 13, 2018
Hunky Monkey /w variations 5.10, 4p, sport Lost Angel Wall July 16, 2019
In Your Dreams 5.11a, 1p, sport Oceanic Wall July 16, 2019
West Crack 5.9+, 1p, trad Bell Buttress July 13, 2018
West Face 5.9+, 1p, trad Bell Buttress July 13, 2018
Wrinkles in Time 5.9, 1p, sport Dream Dome July 16, 2019

Original trip report for 1st visit to Boulder Canyon....


July 2018 Trip Report to Boulder Canyon
1 Day: Cragging

Date: July 13, 2018
Partner: Annie Hines

 
<-- Map of summer 2018
     climbing 
roadtrip 
     (click to enlarge)

Intro

I had planned a 4-day climbing trip in the Rocky Mountain National Park area with Annie Hines, but the first day of our planned trip was forecasting "60% thundershowers after 1pm" in the Park. We tossed around the ideas of Lumpy Ridge, Eldorado Canyon, and Boulder Canyon. I had climbed the last 2 days at Lumpy and had already climbed at Eldorado Canyon, but had never climbed at Boulder Canyon. Neither had Annie, so we were both eager to check it out. So Boulder Canyon it was!

Boulder Canyon is just west of Boulder. The rock is granite, smooth in places but for the most part highly textured. The canyon has a wide variety of climbing types, both sport and trad, and nice scenery above the highway. At the recommendation of an Estes Park local, Annie and I started off the day by doing laps on three popular routes at Bell Buttress: Cosmosis, West Face, and West Crack. We finished the day by climbing a 2-pitch route on the cool-looking Cob Rock ("that rock looks cool, lets climb something on it"). The tyroleans across Boulder Creek to access Bell Buttress and Cob Rock were a unique treat to climbing on the south side of the highway. We finished early, but we needed to get ready for a climb in RMNP the next day.

Climbs / Photos

1. Cosmosis, Bell Buttress (5.10a, 1p)
2. West Face, Bell Buttress (5.9+, 1p)
3. West Crack, Bell Buttress (5.9+, 1p)
4. Empor, Cob Rock (5.7+, 2-3p)

Photos:
a.   
b.   
c.   
d.   
e.   
f.   
g.   
h.   
Photo descriptions:
a. Cosmosis, an awesome corner climb. On lead, it seemed quite stout for 10a, but after toproping it a couple of times, 10a seemed quite fair. The crux was pulling a committing move above tiny brass offset nuts (which were pretty good though).
b. Looking up West Crack (left) and West Face (right). Both super fun.
c. Looking down West Crack and West Face.
d. Boulder Canyon as seen from Bell Buttress.
e. Cob Rock.
f. Annie starting up the first pitch of Empor. She linked this easily with Pitch 2.
g. Fun corner crack on 2 of Empor, easily liked with Pitch 1.
h. The tyroleans across Boulder Creek were a unique treat to climbing on the south side of the highway.

Some random photos from other days of cragging in Boulder Canyon.....

Color coded by area:
   =Boulder Canyon East North Side (sunny)
   =Boulder Canyon West North Side (sunny)
   =Boulder Canyon East South Side (shady, must cross creek)
   =Boulder Canyon West South Side (shady, must cross creek)
   =Lower Dream Canyon (sun & shade)
   =Upper Dream Canyon (sun & shade)


Pitch 1 of Hunky Monkey, Upper Dream Canyon
Pitch 1 of Hunky MonkeyUpper Dream Canyon.
Pitch 2 of Hunky MonkeyUpper Dream Canyon.

Pitch 3 (variation) of Hunky Monkey, Upper Dream Canyon.
The popular Wrinkles in TimeUpper Dream Canyon.
Doug avoding the high water between the base of Lost Angel Wall and Dream Dome in Upper Dream Canyon.
Oops, got wet anyway. Upper Dream Canyon
Oceanic Wall in Upper Dream Canyon.