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CHIEFS HEAD Peak Route: Birds of Fire (5.11a R, 9p)

Category: Colorado      Trip Report ####
Partner: xxx
Rock Type: Granite
Summit Elev: 
13,579 ft

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TRIP REPORT TEMPLATE
for future trip report


























INTRO



TIME STATS

Hike to base: 27 minutes
Climb: 1 hour 58 minutes
Rappel route: 55 minutes
Hike to car: 20 minutes
Total car-to-car: 4 hours 30 minutes


OVERLAY



PHOTOS



Photos:
Photo descriptions:
Approach 
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Pitch 
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P1. This is not so great actually, but good, and at least it gets you away from that wet sloppy white stuff. Save a hand-size cam or two for the belay. 

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Pitch 
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P2. After some initial thin moves right by the belay, there is a thin runout slab with inobvious moves, before a long and unprotected traverse left (5.7X) on a big ledge system. This pitch introduces you to the delights in store above. 
   
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Pitch 
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P3. The meat! After some thin moves at moderate 5.10 past a couple bolts, traverse left, very thin, to a bolt, from where committing 5.10 moves lead up, up and up into apparent blankness. The ropework on this pitch alone dictates use of double ropes. This pitch also ends up wildy runout toward the top, with many opportunities for getting irreversibly stuck offroute. 
   
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Pitch 
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P4. (5.10) More of the same. By now you should be used to the nature of the climbing. There are just enough bolts to tip the balance in favor of continuing upwards, but vegan-fed, neurotic, Sport Park regulars will need to bring a change of underwear. 
   
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Pitch 
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P5. If pitch three is the meat course, this is the dessert, a Creme Brulee delight of face knobs and bullet edges up the White Streak. This maintains a heavenly 5.9 standard for the whole ropelength up this perfect boilerplate face. This pitch is comparatively well-protected, but divide six bolts into 150 feet and you get, um, well you still get a pitch not to be trifled with. By the time you reach the lonely belay foothold at the end of this pitch, it should be more or less raining, so you may be feeling that you can retreat without shame from the end of the fifth pitch. Above here, there are two more good sections, but a lot of filler, so you may be right. 
 
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Pitch 
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P6. After yet another runout on thin face (surprise!) past a couple more bolts, you gain merely good 5.7 climbing in a dihedral. 
   
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Pitch 
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P7. This is a short, nondescript pitch. 
   
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Pitch 
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P8. This is the after-dinner port. If the rain has not set in yet, this pitch is actually real good, with tenuous 5.10 laybacking up a sharp arete. Plus the bolts seem closer together here than usual. 
   
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Pitch 
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Unfortunately this section runs out all too soon, and unless you want to lower off a single bolt at this point (the fifth bolt on this pitch), you have to wallow up another one and a-half pitches of mank (at least compared to the rest of the route) to gain another set of rap bolts at the top of the cliff. This is worth it for first-timers. Ahhh, roll on next summer. . . .
   
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Top! 
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Descent 
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