<-- Map of summer 2019
     climbing roadtrip 
     (click to enlarge)

The DIAMOND (on LONGS Peak)
Route: D7 Pitches 1&2 (5.10b, 2p) + Black Dagger (5.11a, 3p) 

AUG
2
2019
TR #: 357

Category: Colorado       Elev: 14,255 ft (Longs Peak); 13,700 ft (Table Ledge at top of route)         Rock Type: Granite

Partner: Kishen Mangat

17 hours Boulder to Boulder and perhaps my favorite route yet on the Diamond.


LINK TO MY DIAMOND BETA PAGE!

Before I get to the trip report, here are links to useful beta page I have compiled for the Diamond....


The trip report on this page represents the fifth route I have climbed on the Diamond. 

As of August 2019, I've climbed the Diamond via six routes. I have put together a DIAMOND BETA PAGE summarizing the main methods of approach and descent as well as summarizing/comparing the time stats of the various approaches and descents I have taken. Check it out by clicking any of the links below!  




INTRO FOR TRIP REPORT FOR D7 P1&P2 + BLACK DAGGER

At noon on Thursday, August 1, I arrived back in Boulder, after a successful 10-day roadtrip involving the Tetons (Direct South Buttress of Moran), Wind Rivers (Cirque Traverse), and Elephant's Perch (Myopia and Astro Elephant). I planned to spend the remaining two weeks of my summer before school started based in Boulder and focusing on climbing in Colorado. Top priority was a route on the Diamond. I had climbed the Diamond via four routes already (ArianaYellow Wall + Forrest FinishPervertical Sanctuary, and Casual Route), and the Black Dagger route was high on my list of routes to climb up there next. The Black Dagger route is named for and climbs through the deep, 100-foot long, dagger-shaped chimney that starts a few hundred feet above the base of the Diamond and ends half a pitch from Almost Table Ledge. To get there, you can climb either the first three pitches of Yellow Wall or the first two long pitches of D7 to Crossover Ledge. 

I was in the midst of unpacking from my roadtrip and thinking about planning my next climb when I got an email from Kishen asking if I was interested in climbing the Diamond the next day (his partner had a work emergency). It took me all of 2 seconds to decide. Even better, Kishen was flexible on route choice (he had climbed several routes on the Diamond already and was more interested in just a day of climbing than attempting a new route). So we made plans to climb the Black Dagger, which he felt was one of the better routes he had done up there.

We left Boulder at 2:15 am and were on the trail by 3:29 am. Since Kishen had not used the Chasm View Rappels in years, we decided to approach via Chasm View, which is my preferred approach anyway, since it avoids the North Chimney bowling alley. We were starting up the first pitch of D7 five hours after we left the trailhead. And five hours after that, we were at the top of the route on Almost Table Ledge. The pitches were long with sustained difficulty and awesomeness. Nowhere else (that I've yet climbed at least) can you get hundreds of feet of vertical crack climbing up such a vast expanse of granite. Plus, it was pretty cool to be the only party climbing on the entire Diamond (there was one other party who started up Pervertical, but they bailed two pitches up). We descended via the Diamond Rappel Route, and were back in Boulder by 7:15pm. Due to an efficient pace, lack of crowds, dry rock, and no real issues to take up our time, we were car-to-car in 14.5 hours and Boulder to Boulder in 17 hours; Kishen has probably done it a bit faster, but this is my personal best car-to-car time for a single route so far.

Thanks Kishen for asking me to join. And for being willing to repeat the Black Dagger. It was awesome day on the Diamond!

This page gives a trip report from our climb, including a route overlay, time stats from the climb, and lots of photos. Enjoy! 


ROUTE OVERLAY FOR D7 P1&P2 + BLACK DAGGER



TIME STATS FOR D7 P1&P2 + BLACK DAGGER

Approach Option 2: Chasm View Raps
Descent
 Option 1Diamond Rappel Route

14.5 hours car to car
17 hours Boulder to Boulder

Leave Boulder: 2:15 am

Leave trailhead: 3:29 am
Chasm View: 6:42 am
Base of D7 on Broadway Ledge: 8:10 am 
(Trailhead to base of route: 4:40)

Start climbing D7 Pitch 1: 8:28 am 
Finish Black Dagger (Table Ledge): 1:25 pm 
(Climb D7 P1&P2 + Black Dagger: 4:57)

Begin rappels from Table Ledge: 1:40 pm
Broadway Ledge: 2:25 pm (0:45)
Base of rappels below N Chimney: 3:30 pm (1:50)
Trailhead: 6:06 pm 
(Table Ledge to trailhead: 4:26)

Boulder: 7:15 pm 


PHOTOS FOR D7 P1&P2 + BLACK DAGGER

Photos:
Photo descriptions:
Approach
We approached via the CHASM VIEW RAPPELS to Broadway Ledge.
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1. Getting ready at the trailhead. It's a Friday, and the trailhead is already full of cars of Keyholers.
2. Morning colors on the horizon as we neared the Boulderfield.
3. In the Boulderfield headed up to the Chasm View raps. It was a really beautiful morning.
4. Morning glow on the Diamond as the clouds start to burn off.
5. Beta photo showing the location of the Chasm View rappels as seen from the Boulderfield.
6. Almost at the Chasm View notch. Photo by Kishen.
7. Almost at the Chasm View notch. Photo taken looking down from where I am in the previous photo.
8. Beta photo showing the first rap anchor.
9. Setting up the first rappel. 
10. Beta photo looking down the first rappel.
11. Looking down at Broadway Ledge. 

12. Beta photo showing locations of the three rappels.
13. Beta photo looking up from final rappel anchor. This final rappel anchor can be a bit tricky to spot.
14. The final rappel. You could downclimb this one, but it is often wet and it is nice to rap past the small snowfield at the base.
15. Looking across Broadway Ledge.
16. Beta photo showing the traverse across the top of North Chimney. It's exposed 3rd class. Be careful not to kick rocks off on anyone ascending the North Chimney.
17. Looking up at the towering walls of the Diamond. A nice morning! Photo by Kishen.
18. The 4th class scramble to the base of the route.

The photos with the annotations are from the previously-referenced beta section I have put together to summarize the various approach and descent options for the Diamond. I had created this beta section the previous summer, but I added several photos to it after this trip report.
Pitch 
1
D7 PITCH 1. 5.9. Climb the left-facing corner to a good ledge, and continue up to a higher ledge. This is a long pitch (~165 feet). There are lots of fixed pins.
 
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19. Kishen starting the long lead of Pitch 1. A nice warmup for harder stuff above. Best way to identify this pitch is to look for the corner with enough pins to make you feel you could climb it with just a rack of draws!
20. Taken midway up the pitch. The pitch keeps going on and on!


Pitch 
2
D7 PITCH 2. 5.10b. Start in a left-facing corner and then follow thin corners and cracks to Crossover Ledge. This is another long pitch (~155 feet). To continue on to Black Dagger, belay on the right side of Crossover Ledge.
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21. Start of Pitch 2.
22. Looking down from belay at top of Pitch 2, on right side of Crossover Ledge. As you might gather from my final piece of protection on the pitch, I ran out of slings but still had lots of cams (there are so many fixed pins to clip).


Pitch 
3
BLACK DAGGER PITCH 1. 5.11a. Starting in a left-facing corner and then either climb up the lot or face climb on the right. Then ascend the crack system dropping down from the Black Dagger chimney above, following a splitter crack to a ledge. 
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23. Kishen starting up Pitch 3. This is the first pitch of the Black Dagger route.
24. Splitter crack just before the belay at the top of Pitch 3.

Pitch 
4
BLACK DAGGER PITCH 2. 5.11a. Begin with steep finger jams, heading for the base of the Black Dagger chimney. The crux is grunting your way through a squeeze / slot below the chimney. The 80-foot chimney ("elevator shaft") is enjoyable 5.7, but can sometimes be a bit wet. Belay at the top of the chimney below a large, ominous roof. 
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25. The start of Pitch 4. This is the second pitch of the Black Dagger route.
26. Awesome crack climbing.
27. A healthy bush at the base of the Black Dagger chimney system, fed by all of the runnoff from the chimney during snowmelt and storms.
28. Looking up the 80-foot elevator shaft that is the Black Dagger chimney.
29. Looking out.

Pitch 
5
BLACK DAGGER PITCH 3. 5.10b. Climb out the right side of the roof at the top of the Black Dagger chimney (tricky, and use long runners and set a directional to avoid pinching rope at crack at corner of roof). Traverse right about six feet and follow a crack up to Almost Table Ledge.
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30. Kishen working out the perplexing exit from the Black Dagger chimney on Pitch 3. The roof is rated 10a, but it was the crux of the route for me. 
31. Kishen pulling around the roof. Nice job!

32. A closer view of the roof at the top of Black Dagger chimney, taken as I followed the pitch.
33. The cracks above the Black Dagger chimney. The guidebook says 10b, but I thought this was much easier than exiting the chimney.
34. Kishen at the belay at the top of the route. On Almost Table Ledge.

Descent
Almost Table Ledge is the top of the route. From here we rappelled via the DIAMOND RAPPEL ROUTE back to Broadway Ledge (5 raps with double ropes) and then from Broadway Ledge down to the snowfield. We then hiked out around Chasm Lake. 
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35. Looking up above the top of Pitch 5. Someday I would like to climb the section of wall above Table Ledge just to climb the entire wall from Broadway to summit. This section shown in this photo (the final 2 pitches of Yellow Wall) would be a good option.
36. Beta photo showing the location of the first rappel of the Diamond Rappel Route.
37. Taken midway down the rappels.
38. The final rappel to Broadway Ledge.
39. Beta photo showing the location of the first rappel below Broadway Ledge.
40. Beta photo showing the location of the first rappel below Broadway Ledge.
41. Taken midway down the rappels below Broadway Ledge.
42. Beta photo looking up from the base of the final rappel to the snowfield, showing the locations of the rappels.
43. Slogging out.
44. "The Hilton" bivy cave.
45. Beginning the traverse through boulders around Chasm Lake. This seemed much easier this time than the last time I had done it. But the last time I had done it we were a bit more tired from having climbed two routes back-to-back on the Diamond and we lot the path in the darkness.
46. A view back towards the Diamond. Some light rain settled in around 4:30pm.
47. Marmot spending the evening making a cozy bed.
48. Rocky Mountain Columbine aloing the trail.

The photos with the annotations are from the previously-referenced beta section I have put together to summarize the various approach and descent options for the Diamond. I had created this beta section the previous summer, but I added several photos to it after this trip report.