The DIAMOND (on LONGS Peak)
Route: D7 (5.11c, 5p) + Kiener's Route (3rd/4th to summit)

SEPT
2
2019
TR #: 365

Category: Colorado       Elev: 14,255 ft (Longs Peak); 13,700 ft (Table Ledge at top of route)         Rock Type: Granite

Partner: Nathan Arganbright

T-shirts, one of the best routes on the Diamond, and a summit. Doesn't get much better than this.


LINK TO MY DIAMOND BETA PAGE!

Before I get to the trip report, here are links to useful beta page I have compiled for the Diamond....


The trip report on this page represents the seventh time I have climbed on the Diamond.

As of September 2019, I've climbed on the Diamond seven times. I have put together a DIAMOND BETA PAGE summarizing the main methods of approach and descent as well as summarizing/comparing the time stats of the various approaches and descents I have taken. Check it out by clicking any of the links below!  




INTRO FOR TRIP REPORT FOR D7

It seems appropriate that my 7th route on the Diamond was D7. It was also probably the best route I had climbed so far on the Diamond. D7 features beautiful, solid rock and good cracks all the way up. It was originally an aid climb, so there are lots of pins. 

I climbed D7 with Nate Arganbright. We'd had an adventurous day on D1 the previous weekend, and it was nice to return the following weekend (Labor Day Monday in fact) for another day on the Diamond. Nate climbs D7 at least a few times a year and has climbed the route in all conditions (soaking wet, filled with ice, ...), so he was easily convinced to add another lap to the year's tally. We climbed the route in just under 4 hours, with me leading the odd pitches and Nate leading the even pitches (Pitch 4 is by far the hardest pitch of the route, involving pretty sustained 5.11-ish climbing and an 11c crux section). It was one of those unusually warm and calm days on the Diamond, and we climbed in t-shirts as we managed to stay in the sun the entire time. It was not yet noon when we reached Table Ledge, so we decided to continue up to the summit via Kiener's Route (we had not left any gear on Broadway Ledge to give the option of continuing upwards). We descended via the Cables Route and then down Camel Gully back into Chasm Lake Cirque. This was the first time I had been down Camel Gully, so I enjoyed the opportunity to collect some photos of this connector option between Chasm View area and Chasm Lake area. 

All in all, probably my favorite route and most enjoyable day on the Diamond to date. Thanks Nate for being psyched to climb this route again! 

This page gives a trip report from our climb, including a route overlay, time stats from the climb, and lots of photos. Enjoy! 


ROUTE OVERLAY FOR D7



TIME STATS FOR D7 + KIENER'S ROUTE TO SUMMIT

Approach Option 1: North Chimney
Descent
 Option 2Cables Route from summit + Camel Gully

12.25 hours car to car
14.25 hours Boulder to Boulder

Leave Boulder: 3:05 am

Leave trailhead: 4:05 am
Base of North Chimney: 6:43 am
Base of D7 on Broadway Ledge: 7:32 am
(Trailhead to base of route: 3:27) 

Start climbing: 7:47 am
Finish route (Table Ledge): 11:45 am 
(Climb route: 3:58)

Summit (via Kiener's Route): 12:25 pm (0:41)
Chasm View (via Cables Route): 1:06 pm (0:41)
Chasm Lake Cirque (via Camel Gully): 2:05 pm (0:59)
Trailhead: 4:20 pm (2:15)
(Summit to trailhead: 3:55)
(Table Ledge to trailhead: 4:35)

Boulder: 5:20 pm 


PHOTOS FOR D7 + KIENER'S ROUTE TO SUMMIT

Photos:
Photo descriptions:
Approach
We approached via the NORTH CHIMNEY to Broadway Ledge.
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1. Morning sun on the Diamond.
2. Approaching the North Chimney. 
3. Ascending the North Chimney. Our least favorite (and most dangerous) part of the day. The party above us was roped up, and they ended up kicking off (or their rope kicked off) some giant rocks as we were ascending below them. We were just lucky to be a bit right of the path of the rocks. 


Pitch 
1
D7. 5.9. Climb the left-facing corner to a good ledge, and continue up to a higher ledge. This is a long pitch (~165 feet). There are lots of fixed pins.
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4. Looking up Pitch 1.
5. Midway up Pitch 1.
6. Upper stretch of Pitch 1.


Pitch 
2
D7. 5.10b. Start in a left-facing corner and then follow thin corners and cracks to Crossover Ledge. You can belay on the left side of Crossover Ledge or continue to the next ledge. This is another long pitch with lots of fixed pins.
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7. Nate starting his lead up Pitch 2.
8. Midway up Pitch 2.


Pitch 
3
D7. 5.10c. Climb the thin right-facing corner that starts about 5 feet right of the left side of the ledge. Stop at a stance below two leaning cracks. (The prominent right-facing dihedral off the left end of the ledge is the D7 Variation.) 
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9. Pitch 3 ascends the shallow right-facing corner on the right side of the photo. The corner on the left is the D7 Variation.
10. Higher up on Pitch 3.
11. Looking down from the belay at the top of the pitch.



Pitch 
4
D7. 5.11c. Climb parallel cracks to another small ledge. This is the crux of the route.
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12. Looking up Pitch 4. The crux pitch.
13. One of the several old bongs on the route.


Pitch 
5
D7. 5.11a. Work up a thin crack that widens to about 10 inches, and continue more easily to Almost Table Ledge. (Nate linked the 5.11a bit at the start of this pitch with the end of Pitch 4, so instead our Pitch 5 was 5.10 terrain and we were able to extend it all the way to Table Ledge instead of stopping at Almost Table Ledge.)
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14. Pitch 5 splitter.
15. Nate topping out on Table Ledge.


Table Ledge to Summit
KIENER'S ROUTE. 3rd-4th. This involves traversing to the left side of Table Ledge and then scrambling up the blocky shoulder to the summit.
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16. Table Ledge.
17. Upper Kiener's Route, taken just after rounding the corner from Table Ledge.
18. Blocky 3rd and 4th on upper Kiener's Route.
19. Almost at the top!
20. Summit view. The flat summit expanse is always such a contrast to the vertical face of the Diamond you climbed to get there.
21. On the summit. A rare photo with me in it. 



Descent
We descended via the CABLES ROUTE  (3rd class scramble and 2 single rope rappels) to Chasm View. Then we descended CAMEL GULLY (3rd) back into Chasm Lake Cirque.
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22. Heading down the Cables Route.
23. The first rappel.
24. The second rappel.
25. A view of The Diamond from Chasm View. I spot at least 7 parties in the photo. 
26. Zoomed in on climbers on right side of Diamond. I think they are on Enos Mills Wall and Queen of Spades. Probably trying to free them.
27. Table Ledge. It's more like Table Roof on the right side of the Diamond.
28. Looking down the ridge between Chasm View and the entrance to Camel Gully.
29. The entrance to Camel Gully.
30. View of the Diamond from the entrance to Camel Gully.
31. Descending Camel Gully.

32. Nearing the end of Camel Gully.
33. Hiking out around Chasm Lake. What a beautiful summer day.