(LIST OF CLIMBS + 2 "TRIP REPORTS")
Category: Colorado
Elev: 6000-7000 ft
Rock Type: Foundation Arkosic Sandstone
 
2014, 2018-2019
  


ELDORADO CANYON Climbing


Located mere minutes south of Boulder, Eldorado Canyon ("Eldo") is a world-class climbing area. Thousands of routes ascend the beautiful sandstone cliffs, which rise up to 700 feet in height. The sandstone at Eldo is hard, more reminiscent of granite than sandstone in other areas. The climbing is predominantly trad, yet there is relatively little crack climbing; instead, the style of the climbing is delicate face moves, steep juggy roofs, and highly technical sequences on featured rock separated by decent rests. The steepness, committing nature of the climbing, and tricky pro can make climbing at Eldo pretty game on. It is an awesome place.

Eldo.

The first time I climbed at Eldo was in August 2014, for three days during a brief stop on a climbing road trip. Four years later, in Summer 2018 on a month-long climbing roadtrip to Colorado, I squeezed in a few more days at Eldo. I didn't know it at the time, but a year later I would be living in Boulder and Eldo would be 20 minutes from my doorstep. 

Since Eldo is now my local crag, I just keep a list of the climbs I've done there (on this page). Below the list, I've also included my original trip reports from my August 2014 and 2018 trips to the area.



ON THIS PAGE:

LINK
List of climbs I've done at Eldo
2014 trip report (1st trip to Eldo: 3 days: Naked Edge + cragging)
AUG
10-12
2014

TR #: 174
2018 trip report (2nd trip to Eldo: 3 days: more cragging)
JULY
6-7 & 26
2018

    TR #: 293
Other random photos from cragging in Eldorado Canyon


List of climbs I've done at Eldo

(Alphabetical order)
CLIMB DIFFICULTY
    =multi-pitch
LINKUP NOTES AREA

Color-coded:
   =The Bastille
   =Mickey Mouse Wall
   =Peanuts Area
   =Quartzite Area
   =Redgarden Wall
   =Rincon Wall
   =Shirt Tail Peak
   =The West Ridge
   =The Wind Tower
PARTNER
DATE CLIMBED

Color-coded: 
Spring
Summer
Fall
Winter
 
Alice in Bucketland 3p: 5.8, 5.8+, 5.5 part of a Rosy Crucifixion + Alice in Bucketland link-up; linked P2+P3 Redgarden Wall - Tower 1 Brad Mering Sept 17, 2019
 
Bastille Crack (Pitches 1&2)  P1: 5.7+, P2: 5.6  part of Bastille Crack P1+P2 + Outer Space link-up Bastille N Face Patrik Larsson & Eric Schweitzer; 
Michal Matyjasik
Aug 11, 2014; July 14, 2019
Blind Faith 2p: 10a, 5.9 linked P1+P2 Bastille W Face Alex Haeger July 6, 2018
Body Tremors 1p: 5.8 R  part of Vertigo + Body Tremors + Smoke and Mirrors link-up to the top of Tower One Redgarden Wall - Tower 1 Michal Matyjasik July 14, 2019
Breakfast in Bed 1p: 5.8+
Bastille W Face Tom Wright Aug 20, 2019
 
C'est La Vie 2p: 5.9+, 11b
Redgarden Wall - S Buttress Stuart Gillespie Aug 10, 2014
Captain Beyond 4p: 10a, 5.9+, 10c, 10b Mickey Mouse Wall Giles Eperon Oct 18, 2019
Cave, The 1p: 5.8  approach pitch to The Naked Edge Redgarden Wall - Tower 2 Eric Schweitzer; 
Michal Matyjasik
Aug 12, 2014;
July 14, 2019;
Aug 22, 2019
Chance of Rain 1p: 10c R
Bastille W Face Zach Durbin July 26, 2018
Chockstone + Chock Suey variation for P3  3p: 10a, 10a, 10c Tony linked P1+P2+P3 into one massive lead West Ridge Tony Bubb July 7, 2018
 
Darkness 'Til Dawn (Pitch 1) P1: 10a part of a "morning crack tour" of Grandmother's Challenge, The Grand Course, Disappearing Act, & Darkness 'Til Dawn Redgarden Wall - Lumpe to top Patrik Larsson;
Tom Wright
Aug 11, 2014;
Sept 1, 2019
Diffraction 1p: 10a part of a Diffraction + Metamorphosis link-up Wind Tower Zach Durbin July 26, 2018
Disappearing Act (aka Kryptonite) 1p: 11a part of a "morning crack tour" of Grandmother's Challenge, The Grand Course, Disappearing Act, & Darkness 'Til Dawn Redgarden Wall - Lumpe to top Tom Wright Sept 1, 2019
Diving Board, The (Pitches 2&3) P2: 10c, P3: 11b approached via traverse across face from top of Naked Edge P2 to top of Diving Board P1 Redgarden Wall - Tower 2 Michal Matyjasik Aug 22, 2019
Doub-Griffith, The 3p: 11a, 11a, 12a linked P1+P2; did 12a direct finish for P3; part of a Suparete + Doub-Griffith + Yellow Fellow + Mellow Yellow P2 + Yellow Spur P5+P6 link-up to top of Tower One Redgarden Wall - Tower 1 Michal Matyjasik Aug 6, 2019
 
Gambit 4p: 5.5, 5.8, 5.7, 5.6 linked P3+P4 Shirt Tail Peak Alex Haeger July 6, 2018
Genesis (Pitch 1) P1: 11a
Redgarden Wall - S Buttress Stuart Gillespie Aug 10, 2014 
Grand Course, The 1p: 10a part of a "morning crack tour" of Grandmother's Challenge, The Grand Course, Disappearing Act, & Darkness 'Til Dawn Redgarden Wall - Lumpe to top Tom Wright Sept 1, 2019
Grand Giraffe 6p: 5.8, 5.9, 5.5, 5.9+, 5.6R, 5.7 linked P1+P2 and P5+P6 Redgarden Wall - Tower 1 Tom Wright Nov 16, 2019
Grandmother's Challenge 2p: 5.8, 10c linked P1+P2; part of a "morning crack tour" of Grandmother's Challenge, The Grand Course, Disappearing Act, & Darkness 'Til Dawn Redgarden Wall - Lumpe to top Tom Wright Sept 1, 2019
Great Zot, The 1p: 5.8 part of a Great Zot + Rewritten P2-P4 + Rebuffat's Arete link-up Redgarden Wall - Lumpe to top Erin DeMarco Sept 8, 2019
Green Spur (Pitches 1&2) P1: 5.5, P2: 5.9  part of a Green Spur P1+P2 + Rewritten P3+P4 + Rebuffat's Arete link-up Redgarden Wall - Lumpe to top Patrik Larsson Aug 11, 2014
 
Hair City (Pitch 1) 1p:  5.9
Bastille W Face Zach Durbin July 26, 2018
Handcracker Direct 5p: 5.9-, 5.9, 5.8, 10a, 5.4
linked P2+P3 & P4+P5 West Ridge Alex Haeger July 6, 2018
Heavy Weather 4p: 5.9-, 5.9, 5.8+. 5.8 Upper Peanuts, Peanuts Area Natalie Huey Sept 17, 2019
 
Long John Wall 4p: 5.6, 5.8, 5.8+, 5.6 Ignominity Start for Pitch 1, part of a Long John Wall + Psychosis link-up; linked P1+P2 and P3+P4 to climb as two long pitches West Ridge Brad Mering Aug 9, 2019
 
March of Dimes (Pitches 1 & 3) P1: 5.9, P3: 10c P3 as part of a Werk Supp + March of Dimes P3 link-up; P1 separatly Bastille N Face Stuart Gillespie; Tom Wright Aug 10, 2014;
Aug 7, 2019
Mellow Yellow (Pitch 2) P2: 11c  linked with Yellow Fellow as one pitch; part of a Suparete + Doub-Griffith + Yellow Fellow + Mellow Yellow P2 + Yellow Spur P5+P6 link-up to top of Tower One Redgarden Wall - Tower 1 Michal Matyjasik Aug 6, 2019
Metamorphosis, The 1p: 10a R  part of a Diffraction + Metamorphosis link-up Wind Tower Zach Durbin July 26, 2018
 
Naked Edge, The  6p: 11a, 10b, 5.8+, 11b, 11b, 5.6 climbed the full Naked Edge twice, and once climbed P1+P2 as a way to get to The Diving Board Redgarden Wall - Tower 2 Eric Schweitzer;
Michal Matyjasik
Aug 12, 2014;
July 14, 2019;
Aug 22, 2019 (P1+P2)
NW Corner (Pitch 1) P1: 5.8
Bastille N Face Stuart Gillespie Aug 10, 2014
 
Outer Space 2p: 10b, 10b  part of Bastille Crack P1+P2 + Outer Space link-up Bastille N Face Patrik Larsson & Eric Schweitzer Aug 11, 2014; 
July 14, 2019
Over the Hill  2p: 10b, 5.9  Tony linked P1+P2 into one massive lead Rincon Wall Tony Bubb July 7, 2018
 
Peanuts (Pitch 1) P1: 5.9 Lower Peanuts, Peanuts Area Erin DeMarco Sept 8, 2019
Perversion 3p: 5.9, 5.7, 5.8 linked P1+P2 into a long lead to pass a party  Mickey Mouse Wall Giles Eperon Oct 18, 2019
Positively 4th Street 1p: 5.9
West Ridge Alex Haeger July 6, 2018
Psychosis / Psychosis Direct (Pitches 1 & 3) P1: 10b, P3: 11a with Pitch 2 (10d) of Three Old Farts, Young at Heart for Pitch 2 and Psychosis Direct (11a) for Pitch 3; part of a Long John Wall + Psychosis link-up Redgarden Wall - Tower 1 Brad Mering Aug 9, 2019
 
Rebuffat's Arête via Rewritten 1p: 5.7  first time as part of a Green Spur P1+P2 + Rewritten P3+P4 + Rebuffat's Arete link-up; second time as part of a Great Zot + Rewritten P2-P4 + Rebuffat's Arete link-up Redgarden Wall - Lumpe to top Patrik Larsson;
Erin DeMarco
Aug 11, 2014;
Sept 8, 2019
Rewritten (Pitches 2-4) P2: 5.6, P3: 5.6, P4: 5.7  first time as part of a Green Spur P1+P2 + Rewritten P3+P4 + Rebuffat's Arete link-up; second time as part of a Great Zot + Rewritten P2-P4 (linked P2+P3) + Rebuffat's Arete link-up Redgarden Wall - Lumpe to top Patrik Larsson;
Erin Demarco
Aug 11, 2014;
Sept 8, 2019
Rincon 3p: 5.9+, 5.9-, 11a inked P1+P2 Rincon Wall Tony Bubb July 7, 2018
Rosy Crucifixion 3p: 10a, 5.9+, 5.9- part of a Rosy Crucifixion + Alice in Bucketland link-up; linked P1+P2 Redgarden Wall - Tower 2 Brad Mering Sept 17, 2019
Rover (Pitch 2) P2: 5.9 As a variation to P2 of Ruper Redgarden Wall - Tower 1 Jenny Abegg Sept 15, 2019
Ruper 6p: 5.8, 5.8+, 5.7+, 5.7+, 5.6, 5.8 First time: linked P5+P6; started climbing at almost 6pm and did East Slabs descent in the dark, fun adventure! Second time: Did P2 of Rover as alternative to P2. Redgarden Wall - Tower 1 Erin DeMarco;
Jenny Abegg
Aug 7, 2019 ;
Sept 15, 2019
 
Smoke and Mirrors 1p: 10a  part of Vertigo + Body Tremors + Smoke and Mirrors link-up to the top of Tower One Redgarden Wall - Tower 1 Michal Matyjasik July 14, 2019
Star Wars 2p: 5.5. 5.8+ linked P1+P2 Lower Peanuts, Peanuts Area Erin DeMarco Sept 8, 2019
Sunset Boulevard 1p: 11b
Bastille W Face Tom Wright Aug 20, 2019
Suparete 1p: 11b  part of a Suparete + Doub-Griffith + Yellow Fellow + Mellow Yellow P2 + Yellow Spur P5+P6 link-up to top of Tower One Redgarden Wall - below lower ramp Michal Matyjasik Aug 6, 2019
Super Slab 4p: 10d, 5.6, 5.8, 10d Redgarden Wall - Tower 1 Kishen Mangat Aug 23, 2019
Supremacy Crack 1p: 11c Supremacy Rock, Quartzite Area Natalie Huey Sept 17, 2019
 
T2 6p: 11a, 5.7, 5.9, 5.8, 5.9-, 5.9 did Direct finish 5.9 rather than 5.4 exit pitches Redgarden Wall - Tower 2 Nate Mankovitch Aug 8, 2019
Tagger 2p: 5.9, 10c 
Wind Tower SW Face Stuart Gillespie Aug 10, 2014
Three Old Farts, Young at Heart (Pitch 2) P2: 10d climbed instead of Pitch 2 (5.9) of Psychosis  Redgarden Wall - Tower 1 Brad Mering Aug 9, 2019
Touch and Go 2p: 5.8, 5.9-  approach pitch to The Naked Edge Redgarden Wall - Tower 2 Eric Schweitzer; Michal Matyjasik Aug 12, 2014;
Aug 22, 2019
 
Vertigo /w Vertigo Roof 4p: 5.9-, 5.9+, 11b, 11a  linked P1+P2 & P3+P4; part of Vertigo + Body Tremors + Smoke and Mirrors link-up to the top of Tower One Redgarden Wall - Tower 1 Michal Matyjasik July 14, 2019
 
Werk Supp 2p: 5.8, 5.9+  part of a Werk Supp + March of Dimes P3 link-up Bastille N Face Stuart Gillespie;
Tom Wright
Aug 10, 2014;
Aug 7, 2019
West Buttress 4p: 5.9+, 5.9-, 5.7, 5.2
Bastille W Face Tom Wright Aug 7, 2019
West Buttress Direct (Super Start + Original Aid Line) (Pitch 1) P1: 5.10b
Bastille W Face Zach Durbin July 26, 2018
Wind Ridge, The 3p: 5.6, 5.5, 5.6 climbed as one long pitch with some simulclimbing Wind Tower W Face Tom Wright Nov 16, 2019
 
Yellow Fellow 1p: 11d  linked with Mellow Yellow P2 as one pitch; part of a Suparete + Doub-Griffith + Yellow Fellow + Mellow Yellow P2 + Yellow Spur P5+P6 link-up to top of Tower One Redgarden Wall - Tower 1 Michal Matyjasik Aug 6, 2019
Yellow Spur, The 6p: 5.9, 5.8, 5.8, 5.8+, 5.9+, 5.6 linked P1+P2+P3 into a 67m lead; also linked P5+P6; Robbins Traverse for P5; climbed route in 1.5 hours base to top. Redgarden Wall - Tower 1 Michael Butts Aug 19, 2019
Yellow Spur, The (Pitches 5 & 6) P5: 10b, P6: 5.6  10b Original Finish variation for P5; part of a Suparete + Doub-Griffith + Yellow Fellow + Mellow Yellow P2 + Yellow Spur P5+P6 link-up to top of Tower One Redgarden Wall - Tower 1 Michal Matyjasik Aug 6, 2019


And just so I can have a cragging gameplan whenever I go to Eldo, here is a list of some climbs I want to do....listed in order of difficulty....

 5.7
The Bulge 4p: 5.6, 5.6, 5.7, 5.5 Redgarden Wall - The Bulge Wall
 5.8+/5.9
Anthill Direct 5p: 5.8, 5.8, 5.6 R, 5.6, 5.9- Redgarden Wall - S Buttress
Horse d'Oeuvre (aka Pony Express P1 to Zipcode) 1p: 5.9 West Ridge
Green Spur 5p: 5.5, 5.9, 3rd, 5.9, 5.6 Redgarden Wall - Lumpe to top
 5.9+/10a
Deviant 1p: 10a Cadillac Crag
Hand Crack (aka White Lightning) 1p: 10a West Ridge
Xanadu 1p: 10a West Ridge
 10b-10d
Tagger 2p: 5.9, 10c 
Wind Tower SW Face

Rain 1p: 10d Bastille W Face
 11a
Land of Ra 1p: 11a Cadillac Crag
Practice Wall 1p: 11a West Ridge
Guenese 3p: 11a, 5.9, 5.7 Redgarden Wall - Roof routes
Center Route 3p: 11a, 10b, 5.8+ Rincon
Aerial Book 3p: 10d, 11a, 5.8 Rincon
 11b
Pansee Sauvage 1p: 11b Redgarden Wall - S Buttress
Climb of the Century 1p: 11b Rincon
Scorpions 1p: 11b Peanuts Area
C'est La Vie (Pitches 1&2) P1: 5.9+, P2: 11b
Redgarden Wall - S Buttress

 11c
Pony Express 2p: 5.9, 11c West Ridge
 12a
Sequential 1p: 12a Kloof Alcove

When I lived in Washington, the closest good crag was two hours away, and wet for over half of the year. So having Eldo 20 minutes from my doorstep and climbable year round, I imagine I will climb here often. So I've started a table to summarize my (few so far) days I've spent at Eldo...

YEAR NUMBER OF DAYS DATES
Wi Sp Su Fa
2014 3 Aug 10, 11, 12
2018 3 July 6, 7, 26
2019 13 2 July 14; Aug 6, 7, 8, 9, 19, 20, 22, 23; Sept 1, 8, 15, 17; Oct 19; Nov 16

Original trip reports for 1st and 2nd visits to Eldo....


August 2014 Trip Report to Eldorado Canyon
1st trip to Eldo: 3 Days: Naked Edge + cragging

Dates: Aug 10-12, 2014
Partners: Stuart Gillespie / Patrik Larsson / Eric Schweitzer

 
<-- Map of summer 2014
     climbing 
roadtrip 
     (click to enlarge)

Intro

I had spent the first week of August climbing in Rocky Mountain National Park, and was now headed back north for a second trip to the Cirque of the Towers to climb some routes I had not climbed on my first trip that summer. I had a few extra days between trips, so I decided to stop by Eldorado Canyon. Just south of Boulder, Eldorado Canyon is one of the world's finest and most famous climbing areas. It consists of steep, beautiful conglomerate sandstone walls of up to 700 feet high, in brilliant shades of gold and red. The rock quality is reminiscent of granite rather than the soft sandstone found throughout much of Utah and Arizona.

Eric (who I had climbed with for the previous couple of weeks) was interested in climbing The Naked Edge, a premier route of the Canyon (perhaps THE premier route of the Canyon) which ascends a spectacular 500' tall arête. But he was in the process of buying a Sprinter van and couldn't climb for a couple of days. So, following the partner-finding trend of the summer, I posted on MountainProject.com to see if I could find a partner (or partners) to climb for a couple of days while Eric dealt with the Sprinter. My problem quickly went from having no partner to having to choose between a dozen potential partners. Guess there are a lot of climbers in Boulder, huh.

 Jump to photos from:
THE NAKED EDGE
(5.11b, 6 pitches)
I climbed for three days in Eldorado Canyon, the first two days with climbers from Boulder (Stuart and Patrik) and the third day with Eric. I really loved the technical nature of the climbing, plus the variety of cracks, face, corners, jugs, roofs, etc. The rock is quite grippy and for the most part solid. I had told my partners to "show me the best" so many of the routes we did were 3- or 4-star Canyon classics. 

 DAY 1  : The first day, a 40% thundershower day, Stuart and I climbed several 1-2 pitch 5.8-5.11b routes. 

 DAY 2  : The second day, under a more stable forecast, Patrik and I climbed a couple of longer (4-5 pitch) routes. Eric also joined us for the morning. 

 DAY 3  : The third day, with the most stable (and hotter) forecast of the trip, Eric and I climbed the spectacular arête of The Naked Edge (5.11b, 6 pitches). Although all the routes I climbed in Eldorado Canyon were great, this was probably the prize of the trip.

Below are some photos and a list of the routes I did during my three-day introduction to Eldorado Canyon. Thanks Stuart, Patrik, and Eric for the fun days of climbing in the Canyon. I'll be back for sure.


Climbs / Photos

 DAY 1 - Aug 10 
(Partner: Stuart Gillespie)

1. C'est La Vie (Pitches 1 & 2), Redgarden S Buttress; P1: 5.9+, P2: 5.11b **** 
2. Genesis (Pitch 1), Redgarden S Buttress; P1: 5.11a **** 
3. Tagger, Wind Tower SW Face; P1: 5.9, P2: 5.10c *** 
4. NW Corner (Pitch 1), The Bastille N Face; P1: 5.8 **** (climbed first pitch before bailing due to too many parties ahead) 
5. Werk Supp, The Bastille N Face; P1: 5.8, P2: 5.9+ *** 
6. March of Dimes (Pitch 3), The Bastille N Face; P3: 5.10c ***

Photos:
a.    
b.    
c.    
d.    
e.    
f.    
g.    
Photo descriptions:
a. The entrance to Eldorado Canyon. Ahh...warm sunny rock ahead!
b. Stuart leading the second pitch of C'est La Vie, which goes up a huge dihedral. The 5.11c crux is only about 10 feet above the belay.
c. Taken at the top of the second pitch of C'est La Vie.
d. The towering Bastille. We wanted to climb the NW Corner route but had to bail when there were too many parties ahead. Eldorado Canyon is is a popular weekend destination, and The Bastille is perhaps the most popular crag in the Canyon.
e. Fun 10c climbing on the crux left-leaning crack near the top of March of Dimes. We tacked this short pitch onto the last pitch of Werk Supp.
f. Looking up the Naked Edge on Redgarden Wall, perhaps THE route of the Canyon. Eric and I climbed this route a couple of days later. 
g. Looking down at the parking lot at the entrance of Eldorado Canyon. It's a popular place, and rightly so.

 DAY 2 - Aug 11 
(Partners: Patrik Larsson (all day) and Eric Schweitzer (morning))

1. Bastille Crack - Outer Space link up, The Bastille N Face; P1: 5.7+, P2: 5.6, P3: 5.10b, P4: 5.10b ****
2. Green Spur + Rebuffat's Arête via Rewritten, Redgarden; P1: 5.5, P2: 5.9, P3: 5.9; P4: 5.7; P5: 5.6 ***
3. Darkness 'Til Dawn (Pitch 1), Redgarden; P1: 5.10a ****

Photos:
a.    
b.    
c.    
d.    
e.    
f.    
g.    
h.    
i.    
j.    
Photo descriptions:
a. Looking up Bastille Crack, perhaps the most popular climb in the Canyon. It is really fun 5.6-5.8 climbing. When we saw no other parties on it we decided it would make a great warm-up and allow us to get up to the two-pitch Outer Space route (10b), another Canyon classic I'd had my eye on.
b. The 10b corner on the first pitch of Outer Space. You know a route is popular/great when you can see the chalk marks from the ground.
c. Eric leading the second pitch of Outer Space. This starts with a wonderfully-exposed 10b traverse.
d. Looking over at the Naked Edge 
on Redgarden Wall.
e. Another photo of the Naked Edge. Eric and I were psyched to climb it the next day. It would be a challenge for sure.
f. There are some cables on top of the Bastille. These cables were actually installed in 1907, when high wire daredevil Ivy Baldwin strung a cable across the mouth of the canyon, stabilizing it with 32 ropes. It was 582 feet in height and 632 feet across. On June 7, 1907, he made his first walk across the canyon. He thrilled the crowds with his high-wire walks 88 times. He also walked the cable backwards on several occasions. His last trip across the canyon was on his 82nd birthday, July 31, 1948. (Reference)
g. When nature calls, keep nature clean!
h. Looking up the 5.9 crux pitch of Green Spur. The climbing on this pitch is sustained and technical.
i. Looking up Darkness 'Til Dawn. Despite the hot sun on the route, we ended the day by climbing this 4-star route. The climbing was sustained 10a and interesting the whole way up. Great route.
j. Another photo of the Naked Edge as we passed it on the way back to the parking lot. Tomorrow....

 DAY 3 - Aug 12 
(Partner: Eric Schweitzer)

1. Touch and Go, Redgarden Tower 2; P1: 5.8, P2: 5.9- ****  
2. Cave Pitch, Redgarden Tower 2; P1: 5.8
3. The Naked Edge, Redgarden Tower 2, 5.11b ****  

2019 Update: I climbed this route again in July 2019, with Michal Matyjasik. I have added some photos from that climb.

Color-coded:  August 2014 Photos.  July 2019 Photos. Photo descriptions:
Approach

a.    
b.    
c.     a.    
b.    
c.    
  

2014:
a. 
The usual way to get to the base of Naked Edge is to climb Touch and Go up to the Lower Ramp and then from the Lower Ramp climb the Cave Pitch, an interesting 5.8 overhang, and reach a three-bolt belay at the base of the first pitch. This photo is taken looking up Touch and Go, which I led as one long pitch instead of two (just use slings wisely to avoid rope drag).
b. Looking up at Naked Edge from the top of Touch and Go. There are climbers "cragging" on the first pitch. Soon after I took this photo, a couple of climbers ran by us on the Lower Ramp, and proceeded to run up the Naked Edge. By the time Eric got to the base of the Naked Edge via the Cave Pitch, the guys were at the top. Apparently they were on their second lap. Amazing.
c. To get to the start of the route from the Lower Ramp, climb the Cave Pitch, an interesting 5.8 overhang, and reach a three-bolt belay at the base of the first pitch.

2019:
a.
 Start of the low 5th scramble to the base of The Cave pitch (avoids having to climb Touch and Go). We soloed this unroped.
b. The Cave pitch.
c. Pulling the 5.8 move over the cave. It's like a jungle gym of jugs!
Pitch 
1
5.11a, 70'.  "Climb the finger crack, with a crux up high, to a two-bolt anchor at a stance on a slab."
d.     d.   2014:
d.
 Eric starting up Pitch 1. This is a really cool pitch as you are just right of the sharp arête.

2019:
d.
 Pitch 1 of The Naked Edge.
Pitch 
2
5.10b, 90'. "Climb the elegant slab right of the exposed arête, turn a corner to the left, then make thin moves up a short wall to a two-bolt anchor at a stance."
e.    
f.   
2014: 
e. 
Eric starting up Pitch 2. Great exposure and a cool step around the Edge.
f. Another photo of Eric higher on Pitch 2, just before stepping left around the Edge.
Pitch 
3
5.8+, 110'. "Follow the arête to a small alcove, step right, then mantel and continue to a sloping ramp at the base of a flared, overhanging chimney."
g.    
h.    
i.    e.    
2014: 
g. 
Looking up Pitch 3. The climbing on this pitch was slightly less than spectacular but still interesting and a bit spicy.
h. A loose rock on Pitch 3.
i. A piton on Pitch 3. There are a fair number of pitons on the route.

2019:
e.
 Pitch 3 of The Naked Edge. Exposure is awesome right on the arete.
Pitch 
4
5.11b, 60'. "Climb a short corner, then pull past a flake (fixed pin) and make difficult moves into the chimney. At its top, work out right along a small roof to a dramatically exposed semi-sling belay at bolts."
j.   2014:
j. 
Eric starting up Pitch 4. As Eric exited the chimney and went over the roof (the crux of the pitch we thought), the carabiner on the sling from his last piece caught in his figure-eight knot and pulled him off. Frustrating, since he had pulled the crux move at this point! 
Pitch 
5
5.11b, 90'. "Layback an awkward steep corner, then step right around the corner and jam an overhanging hand-fist crack. At the top of the crack, step left and belay."
k.   
 
f.    
g.   
2014:
k. 
Looking up the start of Pitch 5. This pith has the most crack-climbing feel of any pitch on the route. I need to get better at fist jams. Even though this was a strenuous crux pitch late in the route, Eric flew up and finished before I finished my PowerBar.

2019:
f.
 Michal starting up Pitch 5 of The Naked Edge. The bombay chimney looms above. This section was the crux of the route for me.
g. Awesome climbing at the start of Pitch 5. Then it got real...
Pitch 
6
5.6, 50'. "Follow easier rock to the top."
l.    2014:
l. 
On Pitch 6.
Descent
East Slabs descent or rappels.
m.    
n.    
o.     
h.  
2014:
m. 
The standard descent is via the East Slabs (3rd/4th). We somehow could not find the East Slabs descent, so we just made our way down and left (where we knew the descent went), making a couple of rappels along the way.
n. The second rappel. We found a path down soon after.
o. Eric enjoying some shade by his truck after the climb. It had been a tad hot on the route, but we had a nice breeze that made it tolerable. Great climb!

2019:
h.
 The East Slabs descent. In 2014, Eric and I had been unable to find this descent, but Michal had been down it numerous times, so led us right to it. It's nice to be able to scramble and downclimb rather than rappel.

PREVIOUS & NEXT ADVENTURES!

(Aug 2014 Eldo trip)

    
Longs Peak (Keyhole), The Diamond (Ariana), The Spearhead (Sykes Sickle), CO

Cirque of Towers, WY: Warrior I (NE Face), Pingora (NE Face), Warbonnet (Black Elk), Sundance Pinnacle (NE Arête)



July 2018 Trip Report to Eldorado Canyon
2nd trip to Eldo: 3 Days: more cragging

Dates: July 6-7 & 26, 2018
Partners: Alex Haeger / Tony Bubb / Zack Durbin

 
<-- Map of summer 2018
     climbing 
roadtrip 
     (click to enlarge)

Intro

In July 2018, I climbed in Colorado for just over three weeks. During this time I climbed for three days at Eldorado Canyon. The first two of these days were near the beginning of my trip. I had a few days between climbing adventures in the Black Canyon and Mt. Evans, and Tony Bubb (who I had climbed with in the Black Canyon for a couple of days) had generously offered to let me stay at his house during this time, so this was a great opportunity to crag for a day or two in Eldorado Canyon. The first day I climbed with local Alex Haeger, who had responded to my mountainproject post for a partner. The second day I climbed with Tony; this was a real treat, since Tony has climbed probably over a thousand routes at Eldo and has put up numerous first ascents in the canyon. Over the course of these two days, I was reminded of how awesome (as well as humbling) the climbing is at Eldo. Then, a few weeks later, at the very end of my climbing trip to Colorado, I managed to squeeze in one more morning at Eldo, this time with a local named Zack, who saw my last-minute mountainproject post for a partner. I had actually met Zack a few years earlier at the Elephant's Perch in Idaho and it was cool to finally get to take him up on his offer to "climb together if I was ever passing by the Boulder area."

 DAY 4  : The first day, Alex and I climbed several 4-star moderate routes, most featuring steep and juggy cracks so typical of Eldo. And so fun to climb! By the time it got too hot to climb around 2pm, our total pitch count was 12 (but 8 with linking). Thanks Alex for showing me some of the classics!

 DAY 5  : The second day, Tony introduced me to three "best of" Eldo routes: Rincon, Over the Hill, and Chockstone. After being humbled by my lead of the first pitch of Rincon, I was happy to let Tony take the sharp end for the day while I enjoyed attempting to tronsite each route. Each of the routes we climbed is 2-3 pitches long according to the guidebook, but Tony-the-king-of-long-pitches had brought his 80m rope, and essentially led each route as one epic pitch (Rincon he broke into 2 pitches, but has climbed it as one in the past). Thanks Tony for rope-gunning some awesome Eldo routes!

 DAY 6  : The third day, Zack introduced me to some steep trad yet not crack-climbing classics like The Metamorphosis and Hair City. I loved the techy movement on these routes. Great job leading The Metamorphosis, Zack, that's a super heady lead!


Climbs / Photos

 DAY 4 - July 6 
(Partner: Alex Haeger)

1. Gambit, Shirt Tail Peak; P1: 5.5, P2: 5.8, P3: 5.7, P4: 5.6 (we linked P3+P4)  **** 
2. Handcracker Direct, The West Ridge; P1: 5.9-, P2: 5.9, P3: 5.8, P4: 5.10a, P5: 5.4 (we linked P2+P3 & P4+P5)  ****  
3. Positively 4th Street, The West Ridge; P1: 5.9  ***
4. Blind Faith, The Bastille W Face; P1: 5.10a, P2: 5.9 (we linked P1+P1) **** 

Photos:
a.    
b.    
c.    
d.    
e.    
f.    
g.    
Photo descriptions:
a. Eldo is a super climbing-friendy place.
b. Entertaining climbing on Pitch 3 or 4 or Gambit.
c. The best reason to climb Gambit is that it brings you to the top of Shirt Tail Peak, the highest summit in the canyon. The view is great. 
d. Pitch 4 of Handcracker Direct. This is the crux (10a) pitch up steep and juggy crack.
e. Positively 4th Street - climb the crack or climb the face!
f. Blind Faith, a steep and long 10a hand crack with a couple of roofs. This was my favorite route of the day. Climbing it in the direct sun made it a grade harder.
g. Penny, Alex's shepherd-huskey mix, and the world's best crag dog. Penny enjoyed the day out as much as we did.


 DAY 5 - July 7 
(Partner: Tony Bubb)

1. Rincon, Rincon Wall; P1: 5.9+, P2: 5.9-, P3: 5.11a (we linked P2+P2) **** 
2. Over the Hill, Rincon Wall; P1: 5.10b, P2: 5.9 (Tony linked P1+P2 into one massive lead) **** 
3. Chockstone + Chock Suey variation for P3, The West Ridge; P1: 5.10a, P2: 5.10a, P3: 5.10c (Tony linked P1+P2+P3 into one massive lead) *** 

Photos:
a.    
b.    
c.    
d.    
e.    
f.    
g.    
h.    
i.    
j.    
Photo descriptions:
a. Looking down Pitch 2 of Rincon.
b. Tony starting up Pitch 3 of Rincon (crux pitch).
c. Cool patterns from pine beetles. Doesn't quite make up for the destruction of the poor pine tree though.
d. Looking up Pitch 1 of Over the Hill, a nice open book style corner where you really have to trust your feet as you stem up.
e. Pitch 2 of Over the Hill, an awesome fingercrack splitting the steep face.
f. Thunderheads developing....do we have time for one more route....?
g. ...we decided to climb one more route. Looking down Pitch 1 of Chockstone. Fun stuff.
h. Pitch 2 of Chockstone. Techy.
i. Chock Suey variation to Pitch 3 of Chockstone.
j. Pretty purple flowers in the route Purple Haze.


 DAY 6 - July 26 
(Partner: Zach Durbin)

1. Diffraction to The Metamorphosis, Wind Tower; P1: 5.10-, P2: 5.10- (we linked P1+P2)
2. Hair City (Pitch 1)The Bastille W FaceP1: 5.9
3. West Buttress Direct (Pitch 1)The Bastille W FaceP1: 5.10
4. Chance of Rain, The Bastille W FaceP1: 5.11a?

Photos:
a.    
b.    
c.    
d.    
e.    
f.    
  
Photo descriptions:
a.
Diffraction.
b. The Metamorphosis.  
c. Don't think I've ever come across this sort of pin/bolt before. On Diffraction.
d. Nut placement.
e. West Buttress (Direct) Pitch 1. 
f. Toproping Chance of Rain. An appropriate route to finish with, given the afternoon rain clouds that were developing above....



Some random photos from other days of cragging at Eldo....

Color coded by area:
   =The Bastille        =Mickey Mouse Wall        =Peanuts Area        =Quartzite Area        =Redgarden Wall        =Rincon Wall        =Shirt Tail Peak        =The West Ridge        =The Wind Tower

Vertigo (4p, 11b), Redgarden Wall.
Pitch 1 (5.9-) of VertigoRedgarden Wall. Pitch 2 (5.9+) of VertigoRedgarden Wall.
Pitch 3 (Crux 11b pitch) of VertigoRedgarden Wall. Pitch 4 Vertigo Roof (11a) above.

Michal hanging out at the belay at the top of Vertigo (4p, 11b)Redgarden Wall.

Body Tremors (5.8 R) Redgarden Wall.
Climber on Yellow Spur (5.9+), Redgarden Wall. Michal on Pitch 1 (10b) of Outer SpaceThe Bastille.
Michal on Pitch 2 (10b) of Outer Space, The Bastille. Leaves of three.... Suparete (11b), Redgarden Wall.
Michal leading off Pitch 3 (11c) of The Doub-Griffith, Redgarden Wall.
Awesome exposed arete on the final pitch (5.6) of The Yellow Spur, Redgarden Wall. Knife-edge start of the descent from the top of Tower One, Redgarden Wall.
Looking up Pitch 2 (5.9+) of Work Supp, The Bastille.
Approach ramp to Ruper (6p, 5.8+), Redgarden Wall.
Pitch 2 (5.8+) of Ruper, Redgarden Wall.
Pitch 3 (5.9) of T2, Redgarden Wall.
Pitch 3 (5.9) of T2, Redgarden Wall.
Pitch 4 (5.8) of T2, Redgarden Wall.
Direct finish (5.9) of T2, Redgarden Wall.
That looks like a nice handhold....
Pitch 2 (5.8) of Long John Wall, The West Ridge.
Brad cruising up Pitch 2 (10d) of Three old Farts, Young at Heart, Redgarden Wall.
Another bomber Eldo nut placement....
Pitch 4 (5.8+) on Yellow SpurRedgarden Wall.
Michael on Pitch 4 (5.8+ on Yellow SpurRedgarden Wall.
Michael leading the Robbins Traverse (5.7+ PG13) on Pitch 5 (5.9+) of Yellow SpurRedgarden Wall. You can see how the route got its name.

Fun exposed arete climbing on Pitch 6 (5.6 R) of Yellow SpurRedgarden Wall.
Topping out on Yellow Spur (6p, 5.9+), Redgarden Wall.
The fractured start of Pitch 2 (10c) of The Diving BoardRedgarden Wall.
The corner of Pitch 2 (10c) of The Diving BoardRedgarden Wall.
Birds Eye view of The Bastille from high on Redgarden Wall.
Kishen dancing up the stellar Pitch 4 (5.10d) of Super SlabRedgarden Wall.
Grandmother's Challenge (5.10c), Redgarden Wall.
The Grand Course (5.10a)Redgarden Wall.
Tom getting psyched to lead Disappearing Act (5.11a)Redgarden Wall.
Darkness Til' Dawn (5.10a)Redgarden Wall.
Fun crack on The Great Zot (5.8)Redgarden Wall.
Old eyebolt rap anchor at the top of Pitch 2 of Rewritten (5.7)Redgarden Wall.
Fun crack on Pitch 4 of Rewritten (5.7)Redgarden Wall.
A view of The West Ridge and Redgarden Wall from Peanuts Area.
Peanuts (5.9)Peanuts Area.
Fun corner climbing on Star Wars (5.8+)Peanuts Area.
Pitch 2 of Heavy Weather (5.9)Peanuts Area.
Pitch 3 of Heavy Weather (5.9)Peanuts Area.
Pitch 4 of Heavy Weather (5.9)Peanuts Area.
Natalie cruising up Supremacy Crack (5.11c)Supremacy Rock, Quartzite Area.
Brad on Pitch 1 of Rosy Crucifixion (5.10a), Redgarden Wall.
Fun features on Pitch 1 of Alice in Bucketland (5.8+), Redgarden Wall.
Brad on the Pitch 2 crux of Alice in Bucketland (5.8+), Redgarden Wall.
Morning sun on the Naked Edge (11b), Redgarden Wall.
On the approach to Mickey Mouse Wall.
On the approach to Mickey Mouse Wall.
Giles starting up Pitch 1 of Captain Beyond (5.10c), Mickey Mouse Wall.
Splitter finger crack on Pitch 2 of Captain Beyond (5.10c), Mickey Mouse Wall.
Giles starting up Pitch 1 of Perversion (5.9), Mickey Mouse Wall.
The party ahead of us on Pitch 3 corner of of Perversion (5.9), Mickey Mouse Wall.
Pitch 1 (5.8) of Grand Giraffe / RuperRedgarden Wall.
Pitch 2 (5.9) of Grand GiraffeRedgarden Wall.
The offwidth Pitch 4 (5.9+) of Grand GiraffeRedgarden Wall.
Looking down the offwidth of Pitch 4 (5.9+) of Grand GiraffeRedgarden Wall.
Climbers on Alice in Bucketland (5.8+)Redgarden Wall.
Pitch 5 of Grand GiraffeRedgarden Wall. May as well use the big cam you brought for the offwidth to protect the moderately-runnout "Upper Giraffe" pitches.
Wind Tower.
Late fall afternoon on top of Wind Tower.
Topping out on Grand Giraffe (5.9+),  Redgarden Wall. (Photo by Tom Wright.)