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JULY
11-12
2018
Category: Colorado
Trip Report #: 291
Partner: George Foster
Rock Type: Granite
Elev: ~9000 ft
2 Days at LUMPY RIDGE
Climb 1: Loose Ends (4p, 5.9+ Cheap Date (1p, 10b) + Outlander (1p, 10c), The Book
Climb 2: George's Tree (5p, 5.9), The Book
A nice backup plan when the weather is too iffy for a bigger objective in RMNP.
INTRO

Lumpy Ridge, lying in the northeastern sector of Rocky Mountain National Park, is an area of 500-foot tall lumps of granite. Over 500 routes ascend the lumps, on excellent compact crystal-studded stone. The compact granite is ideal for face climbing with incut edges, knobs, and crystals, and cracks also split the face allowing for excellent protection. The faces are about 70°, so climbing often involves burning calves and trusting the feet on smears. Lumpy Ridge is south-facing (so a bit hot) but tends to get better weather than the central RMNP, so it can be a good option when the weather is a bit iffy for a committing climb in the central region of the Park.

The Park forecast was for "60% chance of thundershowers after 1pm" for the last two days that George and I climbed together, so we spent our last two mornings at Lumpy Ridge. Due to seasonal raptor closures, popular walls such as Sundance Buttress and Twin Owls were off-limits. So George and I decided to check out The Book, supposedly one of the finest lumps at Lumpy. Many long, striking crack and dihedral lines ascend the 500-foot tall lump. The first morning, we climbed a popular 6-pitch link-up to the top: Loose Ends (4p, 5.9) + Cheap Date (1p, 10b) + Outlander (1p, 10c)The second morning, we climbed George's Tree (5p, 5.9) (George was sad to find that his tree—once alive and located about 20 feet up Pitch 1—was now a dead snag). Both were excellent routes.

This page gives photos from the two climbs at Lumpy Ridge. I'll be back for more someday, hopefully when raptor closures are lifted off Sundance Pinnacle and Twin Owls.

PHOTOS

CLIMB 1 - JULY 11
Loose Ends (4p, 5.9) + Cheap Date (1p, 10b) + Outlander (1p, 10c) on The Book
An excellent 6-pitch link-up to the top involving lots of finger-cracks and laybacking.
Route overlay:
Photos:
Photo descriptions:
Approach
~1 hour on trail from parking lot to base of The Book.
1.    
2.    
3.   
4.    
1. Seasonal raptor closures. Too bad - there are some routes on Sundance I wanted to climb!
2. The raptors of Lumpy Ridge.
3. The turnoff to The Book. The trail is very nice and clearly marked.
4. The Book. (This photo was taken as we hiked out. The sun hit the walls around 11am. We climbed in the early morning since it can be quite hot in the sun at Lumpy.)

Pitch 
1
LOOSE ENDS 5.9. Thin layback corner.
 
5.    
6.    
7.    

5. Looking up Pitch 1, which starts with a pumpy layback corner with good finger locks and calf pump. (This photo was taken after we climbed the route, when the sun had hit the wall.)
6. Upper part of Pitch 1.
7. George following Pitch 1.

Pitch 
2
LOOSE ENDS 5.9. Thin crack up face with insecure jams at the short crux.
8.    
9.    

8. George starting off Pitch 2. He's at the crux on insecure finger locks; after the short crux, the crack is cruiser and fun.
9. Looking down the Pitch 2 crack.


Pitch 
3
LOOSE ENDS 5.9. Layback the dihedral.
10.    
11.    
 
   
  
  

10. Pitch 3, fun laybacking.
11. Looking down Pitch 3.


Pitch 
4
LOOSE ENDS 5.easy. Easy climbing to the Cave.
12.  12. Pitch 4 is 5.easy to the base of the Cave. From here you have several options: climb out of the Cave by one of a few routes or climb Cheap Date + Outlander. We chose the latter since it meant two more pitches of great climbing, at a slightly harder grade than Loose Ends.


Pitch 
5
CHEAP DATE 5.10b. Left leaning finger-crack with slabby feet.
13.    
14.  
13. Cheap Date is a left leaning fingercrack with great finger locks to hang out on as you fiddle around to try to set gear in a sideways position.
14. The upper crack on Cheap Date. Sewed it up with yellow aliens, grey C4s, and purple-grey and grey-blue offsets.


Pitch 
6
OUTLANDER 5.10c. Pumpy moves through a steep pod and crack.
15.    
16.  
15. George just below the pumpy crux of Outlander.
16. Outlander.

Top & Descent
To descend, scramble east from the summit and follow a climbers path (3rd/4th) down and around to the base.
17.    
18.    
19.    
17. The view looking towards the heart of RMNP (Longs Peak, etc.)
18. Looking west along Lumpy Ridge. Sundance Pinnacle is at the far end.
19. Horsemint on the trail.




CLIMB 2 - JULY 12
George's Tree (5p, 5.9) on The Book
An adventurous route following flared cracks all the way to the top. Gear is plentiful and climbing is sustained at 5.9.
Route overlay:
Photos:
Photo descriptions:
Approach
~1 hour on trail from parking lot to base of The Book.
1.    
 
  
   
   
  
1. View towards central RMNP from Lumpy. A nice morning. But a few more clouds than yesterday....


Pitch 
1
5.9. Flared finger and hand crack with a dead tree 20 feet up.
2.    
3.    
4.   
2. Looking up Pitch 1. You can see the snag in the crack about 20 feet up. Apparently the tree that used to be there died in 2014.
3. The upper half of the pitch. Although flared, it takes good gear.
4. George following the pitch.

Pitch 
2
5.8 or 10c. Step right to a 10c offwidth or step left and climb flakes to a 5.8 crack.
5.    
6.   
7.    
5. The 10c option for Pitch 2.
6. The 5.8 option for Pitch 2. This follows the route Osiris for 50 feet then goes right up a 5.8 crack.
7. Clouds developing above.
Pitch 
3
5.9. Hand crack over a head-wall to Fang Ledge.
8.    
9.  
8. Fun crack climbing on Pitch 3.
9. As we were climbing, a helicopter was flying back and forth across the ridge carrying loads of water to try to control/put out a small fire on the other side of the ridge.


Pitch 
4
5.9. Hand crack to a ledge. Or continue on to link with Pitch 5.
10.    
11.    
10. George starting up Pitch 4.
11. Pitch 4 climbs to the base of the final headwall. Pitch 5 is a short pitch to the top. These are easily linked.
Pitch 
5
5.7. Left-facing corner to the top.
12. 
12. The final corner to the top.

Top & Descent
To descend, scramble east from the summit and follow a climbers path (3rd/4th) down and around to the base.
13.    
14.    
15.  
13. Looking towards Longs Peak. We made it off the summit just as it began to rain. Wouldn't want to be on Longs right now....
14. Elk beside the trail.
15. Flowers beside the trail.



























If I climb more days at Lumpy before I leave....






CLIMB 3 - JULY 13
Xxx on Xxx (5.xx, x pitches, xxx')
Photos Photo descriptions
1.    
2.    
1. xxx
2. xxx


























CLIMB 4 - AUG x
Xxx on Xxx (5.xx, x pitches, xxx')
Photos Photo descriptions
1.    
2.    
1. xxx
2. xxx


CLIMB 5 - AUG x
Xxx on Xxx (5.xx, x pitches, xxx')
Photos Photo descriptions
1.    
2.    
1. xxx
2. xxx


CLIMB 6 - AUG x
Xxx on Xxx (5.xx, x pitches, xxx')
Photos Photo descriptions
1.    
2.    
1. xxx
2. xxx


CLIMB 7 - AUG x
Xxx on Xxx (5.xx, x pitches, xxx')
Photos Photo descriptions
1.    
2.    
1. xxx
2. xxx


CLIMB 8 - AUG x
Xxx on Xxx (5.xx, x pitches, xxx')
Photos Photo descriptions
1.    
2.    
1. xxx
2. xxx


CLIMB 9 - AUG x
Xxx on Xxx (5.xx, x pitches, xxx')
Photos Photo descriptions
1.    
2.    
1. xxx
2. xxx


CLIMB 10 - AUG x
Xxx on Xxx (5.xx, x pitches, xxx')
Photos Photo descriptions
1.    
2.    
1. xxx
2. xxx


CLIMB 11 - AUG x
Xxx on Xxx (5.xx, x pitches, xxx')
Photos Photo descriptions
1.    
2.    
1. xxx
2. xxx




CLIMBS ...
g.
Route overlay:
Photos:
Photo descriptions:
Route 
1
XXX 5.x. xxx




Route 
2
XXX 5.x. xxx
 



Route 
3
XXX 5.1x. xxx
 




INTRO

Lumpy Ridge, lying in the northeastern sector of Rocky Mountain National Park, is an area of 500-foot tall lumps of granite. Over 500 routes ascend the lumps, on excellent compact crystal-studded stone. The compact granite is ideal for face climbing with incut edges, knobs, and crystals, and cracks also split the face allowing for excellent protection. The faces are about 70°, so climbing often involves burning calves and trusting the feet on smears. Lumpy Ridge is south-facing (so a bit hot) but tends to get better weather than the central RMNP, so it can be a good option when the weather is a bit iffy for a committing climb in the central region of the Park.

The Park forecast was for "60% chance of thundershowers after 1pm" for the last two days that George and I climbed together, so we spent our last two mornings at Lumpy Ridge. Due to seasonal raptor closures, popular walls such as Sundance Buttress and Twin Owls were off-limits. So George and I decided to check out The Book, supposedly one of the finest lumps at Lumpy. Many long, striking crack and dihedral lines ascend the 500-foot tall lump. The first morning, we climbed a popular 6-pitch link-up to the top: Loose Ends + Cheap Date + Outlander. The second morning, we climbed George's Tree (George was sad to find that his tree—once alive and located about 20 feet up Pitch 1—was now a dead snag). Both were excellent routes.