(SHORT REPORTS)
Category:  Colorado
Elev: ~9000 ft
Rock Type: Granite
 
2018-2020
 

LUMPY RIDGE Climbing


Lumpy Ridge is a long spine of 500-foot tall lumps of granite, situated in a sublime setting in the northeastern sector of Rocky Mountain National Park on the outskirts of Estes Park. Hundreds of routes ascend the lumps, on excellent rock composed of incut edges, knobs, crystals, and cracks. The faces are about 70°, so climbing often involves trusting the feet just as much as the arms. The gear can be a bit thoughtful at times, so it is a good place to test your trad game. Lumpy Ridge is south-facing, making it a hot summer crag but perfect place to spend a sunny spring, fall, or even winter day. It is also a good option when the weather is a bit iffy for a committing climb in the central region of RMNP.

Lumpy Ridge from Estes Park.

The following page features some "short reports" from some climbs I've done at Lumpy Ridge. Most reports include a colorful route overlay and  pitch by pitch photos. I highly enjoy the overall package of the climbing at Lumpy, and now that I live just 1 hour away from the Lumpy Ridge trailhead, I plan to fill out this page over the coming years.



ON THIS PAGE:
(Features and routes listed West to East)

ROUTE/LINK DIFFICULTY DATE CLIMBED

Color-coded: 
Spring
Summer
Fall
Winter
SUNDANCE Buttress
Sundance Buttress, Sidetrack 5.9, 4-6p
FEB
2
2020

  TR #: 392
Sundance Buttress, Mainliner  5.9, 5p
JULY
21
2018

  TR #: 305
Sundance Buttress, Kor's Flake 5.7+, 5p
FEB
22
2020

  TR #: 394
Sundance Buttress, Turnkorner  5.10b, 7p
AUG
3
2019

  TR #: 358
The PEAR
The Pear, Right Dihedral
JUNE
30
2020

  TR #: 428a
The CITADEL
The Citadel, Heart of Norway 5.10c, 2p
JUNE
30
2020

  TR #: 428b
The BOOKEND
The Bookend, Hot Licks 5.9, 4p
FEB
22
2020

  TR #: 395
The Bookend, Climb of the Ancient Mariner 5.10a, 3p
MAY
27
2020

  TR #: 411
The Bookend, The Sorcerer 5.8+, 4p
JUNE
2
2020

  TR #: 416
LEFT BOOK
Left Book, White Whale 5.7, 3p
JUNE
2
2020

  TR #: 415
The BOOKMARK
The Bookmark, Sidewinder Pitches 1&2 + Joy and Tribulation Pitch 3 5.8, 3p
MAY
27
2020

  TR #: 413
The Bookmark, Fantasy Ridge 5.9, 34p
MAY
27
2020

  TR #: 412
The Bookmark, Melvin's Wheel 5.8+, 3p
MAR
15
2020

  TR #: 398
The Bookmark, Romulan Territory 5.10b, 3p
NOV
10
2019

  TR #: 380
The Bookmark, Backflip 5.9, 3p
MAR
15
2020

  TR #: 399
The BOOK
The Book, George's Tree  5.9, 5p
JULY
12
2018

  TR #: 297
The Book, Fat City 5.10c, 4p
NOV
10
2019

  TR #: 381
The Book, Loose Ends + Cheap Date + Outlander  5.9, 4p +
10b, 1p +
10c, 1p
JULY
11
2018

  TR #: 296
The Book, J-Crack  5.9 C1, 3-4p
JULY
22
2018

  TR #: 306
The Book, Femp w/ The Cavity start and Hemp finish  5.10b, 3p
JUNE
27
2020

  TR #: 426
The Book, Cragging: Endless Crack Pitch 1, Mission Impossible Pitch 1, Mission Accomplished, Fascist Drill in the West, Road Kill, Living Dead, Dead Boy Direct  5.9-11d, 8p
June 27, 2020;
July 3, 2020
TWIN OWLS
Twin Owls, Cragging: Cackle Crack, Hagakure, Rooster Tail, Tighter Squeeze, East Ridge P2, The Bowels of the Owls, Yosemite Crack, Coyote, Tiger's Tooth P1 5.8-12b, 8p
SEPT
28
2019

  TR #: 369
List of all climbs (single+multipitch) I've done at Lumpy Ridge

SEASONAL RAPTOR CLOSURES:

Seasonal raptor closures are in effect here, usually March 1 to July 31, although sometimes the closure is lifted early if no raptors are detected nesting on the walls. Not all of the formations are closed for bird nesting.


      SUNDANCE Buttress  

    Route: Sidetrack (5.9, 4-6p)  SUNDANCE Buttress

    Date: February 2, 2020       Partner: Michael Cantrell

    A springlike winter day at Lumpy. Sidetrack vies with Mainliner for the best 5.9 route on Sundance.
    Route overlay:
    Photos:
    Photo descriptions:
    Approach
    ~1 hour 20 minutes on trail from parking lot to base of Sundance Buttress. Begin about 50 feet left of Mainliner.
    1.    
      
     
     
      

     
        
     
      
     
    1. Typical Colorado forecast. Time to nab a route at Lumpy before winter sets back in!


    Pitch 
    1
    We linked Pitches 
    1&2.
    5.8+. Climb a thin left-trending crack and face climb to a stance below a slot. 
    2.     
    2. Michael starting up Pitch 1. This is a bit of a heady start to the route but its good climbing.

    Pitch 
    2
    We linked Pitches 
    1&2.

    5.9. Climb the slot on the left and then turn the roof on the left, and belay on a ledge above.
    3.     
    3. More thoughtful climbing. 

    Pitch 
    3
    5.8. Climb the wide crack to a nice ledge.
    4.    
    5.     
    4. Fun #4-sized crack climbing.
    5. Michael nearing the top of the pitch.


    Pitch 
    4
    We linked Pitches 
    4-6 
    as 2 pitches.
    5.6. Climb a crack system to a good ledge. 
    6.    
    6. Looking up at Pitch 4. We climbed the obvious crack. 

    Pitch 
    5
    We linked Pitches 
    4-6 
    as 2 pitches.
    We accidentally veered right onto Mainliner for the first half of Pitch 5.
    5.9. Climb straight up a steep thin crack into an A-shaped roof. Wild stemming and jamming surmounts the roof. Belay on a nice ledge above. Beware of continuing rightward onto Mainliner (as we did, and had to make a sketchy traverse left back to Sidetrack).
    7a.    
    8.    
    9.    
    7b.    
    7a. This is actually Mainliner. We should have traversed left a bit on the ledge and climbed a steep thin crack....
    8. We got in a little bonus adventure by traversing left back onto Sidetrack. On lead, I actually placed some gear on the ramp, and then climbed across the face below and then up, which was actually fairly fun and a safer way to go (no gear and lots of lichen on the ramp). Micheal took the ramp when he followed the pitch, which was the better option for a follower.
    9. 
    The 5.9 roof. A really fun section of climbing. Definitely worth the adventurous traverse to get back on the route.
    7b. This is a photo of the actual Pitch 5 start, which is to the left of my photo 7a. Photo found on mountainproject, taken by Errett Allen.


    Pitch 
    6
    We linked Pitches 
    4-6 
    as 2 pitches.
    5.7. Climb rightward on easy ground to join Mainliner. Climb a slot up to a belay ledge.
    10.    
    11.     
    10. Looking up at the last part of the route, which rejoins Mainliner.
    11. Climb the slot.


    Top & Descent
    From the top of Pitch 7, scramble up easy rock to The Saddle. To descend, downclimb or rappel about 300 feet of 4th class to gully below, and scramble down the gully and back around to the base.
    12.    
    13.    
    14.    
    15.    
    16.    
    17.    
    18.    
    19.     
    12. Looking towards RMNP. It was sunny and warm, but also windy, as this photo shows.
    13. A view down Lumpy Ridge. Looks more like summer than mid-winter!
    14. Traversing to the saddle.
    15. Starting the descent.
    16. We made 2 rappels off fixed anchors on trees. I have scrambled http://www.stephabegg.com/home/tripreports/colorado/lumpyridge#sidetrack this section in the summer, but with the intermittent snow and ice, rappelling seemed like a good decision.
    17. Second rappel anchor.
    18. Looking at the gully below. Surprisingly empty of snow for the beginning of February.
    19. Sundance basking in the afternoon sun as we hiked out. Looks more like summer than mid-winter! Glad we squeezed in a route before the winter conditions returned...




    Route: Mainliner (5.9, 5p)  SUNDANCE Buttress

    Date: July 21, 2018       Partner: Dow Williams

    One of Lumpy's best and most popular moderate long routes with exposure, fun climbing and short cruxes. The route ascends the tallest and most remote crag at Lumpy.
    Route overlay:
    Photos:
    Photo descriptions:
    Approach
    ~1 hour 20 minutes on trail from parking lot to base of Sundance Buttress.
    1.    
    2.    

      
      
     
      
     
    1. Sundance Buttress is the furthest west of the crags at Lumpy Ridge. It is also the largest.
    2. The turnoff to begin hiking up to Sundance is clearly marked.


    Pitch 
    1
    5.7. Climb up cracks in the dihedral, ending at a ledge.
    3.    
    4.    
    5.      
    3. Looking up from the base of the route. Pitch 1 follows the crack systems.
    4. Climbing on Pitch 1.
    5. Looking down from the belay. In this photo, Dow is about at the ledge that marks the typical end of Pitch 1. I had started to set up a belay here, but then I looked up and spotted a .2 X4 sticking out of the crack 30 feet up, so decided to climb to the X4 and see if  could clean it while Dow seconded the pitch....

    Pitch 
    2
    5.8. Climb a corner, then face climb up featured rock, and pull a roof, ending at a nice ledge.
    6.     
    6. Dow starting up the featured face section on Pitch 2. Normally this would be about 50 feet into the pitch, but I had set a high belay for Pitch 1.
    Pitch 
    3
    5.9. Climb up a groove, then stem the corners to a ledge, then climb up a pod and finger crack over a bulge, then a good crack that ends at a nice ledge.
    7.    
    8.    
    9.    
    7. The 5.9 stem section. Dow linked this with his pitch, so this was the 2nd pitch of the route for us.
    8. The 5.9 pod and crack over a bulge section. This was the start of our third pitch, but is typically the second half of Pitch 3.
    9. Looking down at the 5.9 pod and crack over bulge section.

    Pitch 
    4
    5.8. Climb up the dihedral, exiting left to a large belay ledge.
    10.     
    10. The dihedral.
    Pitch 
    5
    5.7. Climb the chimney slot, exiting right to the terrace.
    11.   11. Dow nearing the top of the chimney slot, having too much fun to set pro.

    Top & Descent
    To descend, scramble to notch between Guillotine Wall and Turnkorner Buttress, downclimb or rappel about 300 feet of 4th class to gully below, and scramble down the gully and back around to the base.
    12.    
    13.    
    14.    
    15.    
    16.    
    12. Looking up from the top of the route. The route does not end at the summit of Sundance, but you could easily continue on 5.easy terrain. Thundershowers were threatening so we opted to begin the descent.
    13. A cool tree high on Sundance.
    14. Scrambling down into the gully. This is 4th class, and there are options to rappel if you want.
    15. The Bookend. Looks like some interesting chimney routes.
    16. Twin Owls on the pastoral hike. I'd like to climb on Twin Owls someday, when raptor closures are lifted.



    Route: Kor's Flake (5.7+, 5p)  SUNDANCE Buttress

    Date: February 22, 2020       Partner: Jon Oulton

    Varied and sustained climbing and wild exposure make this one of Colorado's best 5.7 routes.

    Jon and I climbed two routes on this stellar winter day at Lumpy. Kor's Flake on Sundance was the first route of the day. On the hike out we detoured to The Bookend and climbed Hot Licks. Gotta make use of the wide gear when you have brought it. What a great day!
    Route overlay:
    Photos:
    Photo descriptions:
    Approach
    ~1 hour 20 minutes on trail from parking lot to base of Sundance Buttress. Begin below a chimney capped with a chockstone left of the deep chimney of Banana Peels.
    1.    
    2.    
     
     
      
     
      
     
      
    1. Approach.
    2. Rock looks dry and descent looks manageable!


    Pitch 
    1
    5.6. Squeeze up the chimney, and then continue up a crack system to a belay ledge below Kor's Flake.
    3.    
    4.      
    3. Looking up the first pitch.
    4. Inside the 5.6 chimney on the first pitch. Pulling over the chockstone is fun. Even more fun when your fingers have gone numb.

    Pitch 
    2
    5.7+. Work up a corner to gain Kor's Flake. Jam up a crack on the flake ramp to a belay stance with webbing. Don't run it father since no good belays are higher in the wide crack.
    5.    
    6.      
    5. Looking up the second pitch.
    6. Jon nearing the top of the second pitch. Yay sun!

    Pitch 
    3
    5.7+. Continue up the remainder of Kor's Flake. This widens and you have a choice of squeezing in behind it or climbing the face around it. It is moderately runnout. A #5 cam protects much of the wide stuff, and a #6 reduces the runnout a bit. Belay at a small edge at the end of the flake. Really fun.
    7.    
    8.    
    9.    
    10.    
    11.    
    7. Third pitch along Kor's Flake.
    8. A #5 works further back.
    9. The widest section. This is the moderately run-out section. 
    10. Another large cam is nice to have to minimize runnout.
    11. Looking down the pitch. Fun stuff.

    Pitch 
    4
    5.7. Climb up and left into a group of small dihedrals. Traverse left and jam a hand crack to a belay ledge. A surprisingly great pitch of climbing on featured rock.
    12.     
    12. Looking up the start of the pitch. Go up the hand crack on the middle-left of the photo.


    Pitch 
    5
    5.7. Climb up to a roof and pass it on its left. This is the last "real" move on the route. 5.easy leads to the saddle. 
    13.    
    14.    
    13. This roof is fun. It's the last "real" move on the route. After that....
    14. ...5,easy to the top!

    Top & Descent
    Scramble easily to The Saddle. To descend, downclimb or rappel about 300 feet of 4th class to gully below, and scramble down the gully and back around to the base. Due to the wintery conditions, we rappelled off three trees with established rap anchors. These were full rappels with a 70m rope (a 60 would have been a bit short).
    15.    
    16.    
    17.    
    18.    
    19.    
    20.     
    15. View looking east down Lumpy Ridge.
    16. View towards Longs Peak.
    17. The descent. In the summer I downclimb this. But in the winter it is definitely nice to have a 70 and rap from the anchors on the trees.
    18. Fortunately I had rappelled from Sundance just a few weeks previous (when there was less snow on the descent) so I knew exactly where this rap anchor was. I had to dig through about 2 feet of snow to get to it.
    19. The descent gully below.
    20. Jon enjoying some deep snow in the descent gully. I think dry feet was a lost cause by this point.



    Route: Turnkorner (5.10b, 7p)  SUNDANCE Buttress

    Date: August 3, 2019       Partner: Brad Mering

    This route is the quintessential 5.10 crack climbing test piece at Lumpy. The route climbs the longest section of the wall, following a long crack system up the middle of Turnkorner Buttress though the left end of a large roof band. The climbing is varied and strenuous.
    Route overlay:
    Photos:
    Photo descriptions:
    Approach
    ~1 hour 20 minutes on trail from parking lot to base of Sundance Buttress. Begin at a right-facing dihedral just left of a flake boulder 100 feet left from where the access trail meets the cliff.
    1.      
      
     
      

      
      
     
      
     
    1. Turnkorner climbs through the obvious wide crack splitting the roof (photo taken in afternoon after finishing the climb). The climb went into the sun around 11am.
    Pitch 
    1
    5.9. Stem and jam the corner.
    2.    
    2. Pitch 1.

    Pitch 
    2
    5.9. Jam a handcrack to a flared crack to a belay on blocks on a ledge. 
    3.    
    3. Pitch 2.

    Pitch 
    3
    5.9. Face climb along a thin corner to a sloping ledge with an old bolt.
    4.    
    5.    
    6.    
     

      
    4. Pitch 3.
    5. I wouldn't trust this tat to hold a fall!
    6. Old bolt caked in bird poop. Sundance Buttress is closed due to seasonal raptor closures until July 31.

    Pitch 
    4
    5.10b. Climb an overhanging hand/fist crack followed by an off-width slot to a semihanging belay below the roof band.
    7.    
      
    7. Brad starting up Pitch 4. Nice lead Brad!

    Pitch 
    5
    5.10a. Climb up the strenuous off-width crack over an imposing roof, using some face features out right to get through it. Jam the long, steep flared chimney until it ends at a good stance.
    8.    
    9.    
    10.   
    8. Looking up at the imposing roof of Pitch 5. This pitch is 10a, but it felt harder and more sutained than Pitch 4 (10b).
    9. Long flaring corner. 
    10. Stemming the corner.


    Pitch 
    6
    5.6. Traverse right and jam a flared crack to a belay on a terrace.  
    11.     11. Pitch 6.
    Pitch 
    7
    5.9. Climb a crack and corner and up left in a left facing angling corner to a belay ledge. (Easier variation: 5.6. Angle up and left to a crack that leads to low-angled slabs).
    12.    12. Pitch 7, 5.9 option. Goes straight up from belay ledge at top of Pitch 6.
    Top & Descent
    From the top of Pitch 7, scramble up easy rock to The Saddle. To descend, downclimb or rappel about 300 feet of 4th class to gully below, and scramble down the gully and back around to the base.
    13.    
    14.    
     
    13. The final bit to the top. It started with a move or two of low 5th and then got really easy. Not really significant enough to count as a real pitch of climbing.
    14. The 4th class descent.



      THE PEAR  

    Route: Right Dihedral (5.9, 2p)  THE PEAR

    Date: June 30, 2020     Partner: Nate Arganbright

    This route climbs the giant left-facing dihedral on the right side of the south face.

    Nate and I climbed this as a link up with  Heart of Norway on The Citadel. 
    Route overlay:
    Photos:
    Photo descriptions:
    Approach
    ~1 hour on trail from parking lot to base of The Pear, which is just left of The Bookend. Follow the trail signs to The Pear.
    (no photos)   
     
      
       
       
      

    Pitch 
    1
    5.9. Climb the corner. For a nice long pitch, there is a good belay stance after 60m, or you can belay sooner.
    1.    
    2.    
    3.    
    4.    
    5.    
     

      
     
    1. Looking up the dihedral.
    2. Low on Pitch 1.
    3. Midway on Pitch 1.
    4. Looking down from the belay. I belayed at a nice stance after 60m.
    5. Nate nearing the top of the pitch.

    Pitch 
    2
    5.easy. Continue up the corner to the walk-off ledge.
    6.    
    7.      
      
    6. Looking up the start of the second pitch.
    7. 5.easy to the walk-off ledge.


    To summit
    Continue up 4th and easy 5th to the top. This is the last pitch of Gina's Surprise.
    8.    
    9.    
     
    8. Soloing to the summit.
    9. There's a cool wind-formed bathtub on the summit.

    Descent
    From the summit, rappel north from the bolted rap station. This dumps you into a cool corridor. Stay in the corridor and do some more climbing, continue up to do a route on The Citadel, or walk back to the base along the east side. 
    10.    
    11.    
    12.    
    13.     
    10. The rap anchor.
    11. 
    The rap route goes right over some fun climbs. We toproped the one in the photo, called Dextrous Digits (5.9+).
    12. The corridor. 
    13. Ferns.


      THE CITADEL  

    Route: Heart of Norway (5.10c, 2p)  THE CITADEL

    Date: June 30, 2020     Partner: Nate Arganbright

    This route climbs the giant, right-facing dihedral on the south face. This is an awesome route with sustained climbing on both pitches and perhaps the most splitter (not flared at all) crack on the entire Ridge.

    Nate and I climbed this as a link up with Right Dihedral on The Pear. 
    Route overlay:
    Photos:
    Photo descriptions:
    Approach
    We approached by climbing Right Dihedral on The Pear and then scrambling up to the base of The Citadel. There is some mid-5th to get to the base of the route, which we soloed.
    1.    
    2.    
      
      
      
     
      
       
       
      
    1. Soloing to the base of the route.
    2. Looking up from the base of the route.

    Pitch 
    1
    5.10a. Begin with a bouldery roof, climb the crack above towards a roof, step right before you get to the roof, go up, and then back left via a finger crack traverse to a bolted anchor on a nice ledge. 
    3.    
    4.      
     
    3. Pitch 1 pulls into and climbs the crack starting on the right side of the photo. 
    4. Nate on Pitch 1.
    Pitch 
    2
    5.10c. Work right and up on mantles, then climb the awesome dihedral.
    5.    
    6.    
      
    5. Looking up the awesome corner.
    6. Steph climbing the corner. Photo taken by Nate at the belay at the top of the pitch.
    Descent
    Make two 100' rappels back to the base. Scramble down low-5th to the base of the Citadel, or make another rap off a tree.
    7.    
    8.    
    9.   
    7. Bolted anchor at the top of Pitch 1.
    8. Down-scrambling to the base of the Citadel.
    9. Pretty flower on the trail.



      The BOOKEND  

    Route: Hot Licks (5.9, 4p)  The BOOKEND

    Date: February 22, 2020      Partner: Jon Oulton

    A stellar route with a short and spicy face traverse and some fun wide climbing. Our large cams included 1#3, 1#4, 1#5, 1#6.

    Jon and I climbed two routes on this stellar winter day at Lumpy. Kor's Flake on Sundance was the first route of the day. On the hike out we detoured to The Bookend and climbed Hot Licks. Gotta make use of the wide gear when you have brought it. What a great day!
    Route overlay:
    Photos:
    Photo descriptions:
    Approach
    ~1 hour on trail from parking lot to base of The Bookend, which is left of the Bookmark/Left Book area. Follow the trail signs to the Bookend. The route starts just left of the Great Dihedral.
    1.    
    2.    
      
     
     
     
     
       
       
      
    1. The Bookend.
    2. The trail is well-marked.
    Pitch 
    1
    5.8. Jam up a hand and fist crack to a belay perch above. The most comfortable place to belay is below the wide crack, as continuing up further would result in a hanging belay.
    3.    
    4.    
    5.     
     
    3. Looking up Pitch 1, which climbs a wide crack to the left of the dihedral. (The dihedral is the Great Dihedral route, which looks fun too.) There were a couple of required plunge stepping in TC pro moves required to get to the rock.
    4. Looking up the crack. It was a bit wet, but still good climbing. We had decided to bring singles in #3 and #4 which was sufficient with some bumping.
    5. Looking down the pitch from the belay perch at the top. Jon and I both started on the crack on the right wall to minimize the number of TC pro plunge steps.
    Pitch 
    2
    5.9(+). Continue up the crack, which starts wide, becomes a hand crack, and eventually peters out. There are a couple of good small cam placements before a few spicy face moves rightward. (This section of Lumpy spice is just as heady for the follower due to a pendulum potential. Jon and I felt this was the crux of the route.) Gain a ledge, breath a sigh of relief, and move right to a fun hand crack. Follow that to an exposed belay shelf on the right below an obvious offwidth.
    6.    
    7.    
    8.    
    9.      
     
    6. Looking up the wide crack at the start of Pitch 2. Even though the #5 and #6 were brought for the Pitch 3 offwidth, we were glad to have them both here too. 
    7. Approaching the face traverse. The crux comes after the highest cam on the left crack. A follower fall here might result in an exciting swing.
    8. Ah, back to crack climbing.
    9. Jon at the belay perch at the base of the offwidth.
    Pitch 
    3
    5.9. Climb the offwidth. This is what you came for. A #5 and #6 are nice to have. A #6 will pretty much allow you to climb the hardest section with a cam at your nose.
    10.    
    11.    12  
      
    10. Looking up. Fun stuff ahead!
    11. Looking up the final section of offwidth.
    12. Looking down the pitch. We appreciated having a #6 for this section.
    Pitch 
    4
    5.easy. Climb easy terrain to the summit.
    13.    
        
    13. The final 5.easy to the summit.


    Top & Descent
    From summit scramble down north, then turn east into the forested slope. Even in the winter conditions we faced, it was a pretty mellow descent.
    14.    (see a photo of descent in The Sorcerer trip report) 
    14. A view towards Longs Peak.


    Route: Climb of the Ancient Mariner  (5.10a, 3p)  The BOOKEND

    Date: May 27, 2020      Partner: Nate Arganbright

    This route features some quintessential Lumpy slab journey on impeccable rock.

    It was reopening day for Rocky Mountain National Park after the closure due to the Covid-19 pandemic. The meat of the park was still a bit too snowy, so time to head to Lumpy! Nate and I climbed three routes: Climb of the Ancient Mariner on The Bookend, Fantasy Ridge on The Bookmark, and Sidewinder P1&P2 + Joy and Tribulation P3 on The Bookmark. I cannot think of a better way to celebrate the park reopening.
    Route overlay:
    Photos:
    Photo descriptions:
    Approach
    ~1 hour on trail from parking lot to base of The Bookend, which is left of the Bookmark/Left Book area. Follow the trail signs to the Bookend. The route starts in an alcove just up and right of the Great Dihedral (shares first 50 feet or so with Sorcerer).
    1.    
       
      
    1. Social distancing guidelines at Lumpy. 
    Pitch 
    1
    5.10a. Climb the open book corner, turn left and keep climbing the corner to a roof. Clip a bolt, pull a fun 5.9 move over the roof, and then take a deep breath and slab past two bolts to a bolted anchor. 
    2.    
    3.    

     
    2. Start of Pitch 1.
    3. 
    Nearing the roof on Pitch 1.

    Pitch 
    2
    5.9. Embark on a thoughtful journey up the slab. Great rock. 6 bolts in about 110 feet.
    4.    
    5.      
     
    4. Nate starting off Pitch 2.
    5. Thoughtful movement on a sea of great rock. 
    Pitch 
    3
    5.easy. Climb easy terrain to the summit.
    6.    
    6. Easy 5th to the top.
    Top & Descent
    From summit scramble down north, then turn east into the forested slope. A pretty mellow descent.
    (see photos from The Sorcerer trip report)   




    Route: The Sorcerer (5.8+, 4p)  The BOOKEND

    Date: June 2, 2020      Partner: Cassie Vendegna

    The Sorcerer climbs a dihedral system runs up the east face just right of Climb of the Ancient Mariner.

    Cassie and I climbed this just after climbing White Whale on the Left Book. I had been eying this route the previous week while climbing Climb of the Ancient Mariner and it looked like a lot of fun. Indeed it was! It was a step up from White Whale and the gear was a bit trickier, but I enjoy that part about Lumpy. Thanks Cassie for being an awesome partner!
    Route overlay:
    Photos:
    Photo descriptions:
    Approach
    ~1 hour on trail from parking lot to base of The Bookend, which is left of the Bookmark/Left Book area. Follow the trail signs to the Bookend. The route starts in an alcove just up and right of the Great Dihedral (shares first 50 feet or so with Climb of the Ancient Mariner).
    1.    
    2.    
      
      
     
      
      
      
     
     
     
     
       
       
      
    1. Some shooting stars on the approach.
    2. A tree taken down by the winter storms.

    Pitch 
    1
    5.8. Climb the open book corner and continue up a flake system to a belay level with the roof of Climb of the Ancient Mariner, which is just to the left.
    3.    
    4.    
    5.    
    6.      
     
    3. Looking up Pitch 1.
    4. Higher up on Pitch 1.
    5. Nearing the belay location at the top of Pitch 1, level with the roof of Climb of an Ancient Mariner just to the left.
    6. Cassie cruising up Pitch 1.

    Pitch 
    2
    5.8+. Delicately stem and layback up the sustained dihedral. Tricky pro.
    7.    
    8.    
    9.    
    10.  
     
    7. Looking up Pitch 2.
    8. Higher up on Pitch 2.
    9. Pretty much at the the belay on Pitch 2. Pitch 3 ahead. (Note: A 5.9+ variation to Pitch 3 goes left at the roof and climbs the outer corner for a bit before rejoining. We continued straight up the crack system.)
    10. More fun climbing in the sun.

    Pitch 
    3
    5.8. Continue up the dihedral system. At the roof, undercling left to a belay stance on the arete. This is the same belay as the top of Pitch 2 of Climb of the Ancient Mariner. 
    11.    
    12.    
    13.    
    14.     
      
    11. Looking up Pitch 3.
    12. The roof. Undercling out left to the belay stance on the arete.
    13. Cassie nearing the roof.
    14. Cassie mid-roof. This is a fun section.

    Pitch 
    4
    5.easy. Climb easy rock to the summit.
    15.   15. Cassie leading Pitch 4 to the top!


    Top & Descent
    From summit scramble down north, then turn east into the forested slope. A pretty mellow descent.
    16.    
    17.  
    16. Looking west down Lumpy Ridge towards Sundance.
    17. The mellow scramble from the summit.


      LEFT BOOK  

    Route: White Whale (5.7, 3p)  LEFT BOOK

    Date: June 2, 2020      Partner: Cassie Vendegna

    White Whale is one of the popular moderate climbs at Lumpy. It offers three pitches of fun 5.6-5.7 climbing on excellent rock, with a mellow descent. It just looked too fun to pass up.

    Cassie and I climbed this as the first of two routes. We swung leads, with Cassie leading Pitches 1 and 3. In fact, these were Cassie's first two real trad leads. I never would have guessed if she had not told me! When we finished, it looked like the forecasted afternoon thundershowers were still holding back, so we decided to head over to the nearby Bookend and climb The Sorcerer.
    Route overlay:
    Photos:
    Photo descriptions:
    Approach
    ~1 hour on trail from parking lot to base of Left Book, which is just left of The Bookmark. Follow the trail signs to the Bookmark and Left Book.
    (no photos)   
     
      
       
       
      

    Pitch 
    1
    5.6. Climb a fun flake system that leads to the left edge of the obvious Hiatus roof and belay at a tree.
    1.    
    2.    
     
     
      
     
    1. Cassie leading Pitch 1.
    2. Pitch 1 fun-ness.

    Pitch 
    2
    5.7. Step left a few feet to view a nice finger crack. Climb this until it peters out. Then follow intermittent cracks upward and eventually cross left across a short slab to a belay at a triangular roof feature. This is the shares the belay with the top of Pitch 2 of Hiatus.
    3.    
    4.    
    5.    
    6.      
      
    3. Looking up the start of Pitch 2.
    4. The intermittent cracks midway up Pitch 2.
    5. The triangular roof feature at the belay.
    6. Cassie approaching the short slab section at the end of the pitch. 

    Pitch 
    3
    5.7. Head straight up to Paperback Ledge. There are several variations. Avoid water streaks. This is the same as Pitch 3 of Hiatus. 
    7.    
    8.      
        
    7. Cassie off to the races on Pitch 3.
    8. This is the way we went. It was a tad runnout, but on good face holds and never harder than 5.7. Cassie blazed through it with hardly a hesitation.


    Descent
    Walk off west down Paperback Ledge. This is a mellow descent.
    9.   
    9. The pleasant 5 minute walk off Paperback Ledge back to our packs at the base.


      The BOOKMARK  


    Route: Sidewinder Pitches 1&2Joy and Tribulation Pitch 3 (5.8, 3p)  The BOOKMARK

    Date: May 27, 2020     Partner: Nate Arganbright

    This route combines the diagonal crack system of the first two pitches of Sidewinder with the stellar third pitch of Joy and Tribulation for a fun and quick 5.8 romp to the top of The Bookmark.

    Note: This route is referred to as just Joy and Tribulation on MountainProject.com. But the Gillett guidebook describes the first two pitches as part of Sidewinder. 

    It was reopening day for Rocky Mountain National Park after the closure due to the Covid-19 pandemic. The meat of the park was still a bit too snowy, so time to head to Lumpy! Nate and I climbed three routes: Climb of the Ancient Mariner on The Bookend, Fantasy Ridge on The Bookmark, and Sidewinder P1&P2 + Joy and Tribulation P3 on The Bookmark. I cannot think of a better way to celebrate the park reopening.
    Route overlay:
    Photos:
    Photo descriptions:
    Approach
    ~1 hour on trail from parking lot to base of The Bookmark, which is between the Bookend and the Book. Follow the trail signs to the Bookmark.
    (no photos)   
     
      
       
       
      

    Pitch 
    1
    5.7+. Follow the obvious diagonal crack system.
    1.    
    2.    
     
       
     
    1. Looking up Pitch 1.
    2. Somewhere on Pitch 1.

    Pitch 
    2
    5.8. Keep following the diagonal crack system. This part can be linked with Pitch 1. There is some vegetation, but the climbing is still quite fun.
    3.      
      
    3. Pitch 2.

    Pitch 
    3
    5.8. Climb the obvious chimney, which is steep with great jams and stems the whole way up. At the top, enter the chasm and continue up and left to the bolted rappel station up and around the corner.
    4.    
    5.       
        
    4. Looking up the chimney.
    5. Looking down from the top of the pitch. I am belaying at the rap station.



    Top & Descent
    Look for a bolted rappel station just down from the west side of the summit block at the top of a gully system. Make two rappels down the gully to the ground below.
    (no photos - see photos from Melvin's Wheel trip report) 



    Route: Fantasy Ridge (5.9, 4p)  The BOOKMARK

    Date: May 27, 2020     Partner: Nate Arganbright

    This is a classic Lumpy route with some great rock, some spicy sections of climbing, and an awesome position throughout.

    It was reopening day for Rocky Mountain National Park after the closure due to the Covid-19 pandemic. The meat of the park was still a bit too snowy, so time to head to Lumpy! Nate and I climbed three routes: Climb of the Ancient Mariner on The Bookend, Fantasy Ridge on The Bookmark, and Sidewinder P1&P2 + Joy and Tribulation P3 on The Bookmark. I cannot think of a better way to celebrate the park reopening.
    Route overlay:
    Photos:
    Photo descriptions:
    Approach
    ~1 hour on trail from parking lot to base of The Bookmark, which is between the Bookend and the Book. Follow the trail signs to the Bookmark.
    (no photos)   
     
      
       
       
      

    Pitch 
    1
    5.8. Climb up the first 10-15 feet of the diagonal crack of Sidewinder, then pull onto the ridge at a flake. Continue up a corner system close to the edge and belay somewhere below a bolt on the face above. 
    1.    
    2.    
      
     
      
      
     
    1. Gain the ridge at the flake feature just below the yellow rock.
    2. Looking down from the belay at the top of the pitch.

    Pitch 
    2
    5.9. Head up onto the slab, clip a bolt, place a cam, and then cut right to gain a crack system. Continue easily up to a belay. 
    3.     
      
    3. Nate leading Pitch 2.

    Pitch 
    3
    5.9. Climb into an alcove beneath a triangular roof on the ridge. You can either get past the roof on the right (5.9) or left (5.8). We went right. Above the roof cross a slab into a thin crack with awesome exposure on the southwest ridge. At the end of the thin crack, traverse right to a belay stance.
    4.    
    5.    
    6.      
        
    4. Looking up towards the alcove and roof.
    5. Looking down after pulling the right side of the roof.
    6. The section above the roof. I had quite a bit of rope drag at this point (less gear at the roof would have helped) and decided to stop and belay mid-pitch. The position on this pitch is hard to beat.


    Pitch 
    4
    5.9. Climb the slightly overhanging crack above the belay. Proceed easily to the top. Cross a chasm to get to the rappel anchor.
    7.     
        
    7. The start of Pitch 4. This is a short pitch, and Nate linked this with the second half of Pitch 3.


    Top & Descent
    Look for a bolted rappel station just down from the west side of the summit block at the top of a gully system. Make two rappels down the gully to the ground below.
    (no photos - see photos from Melvin's Wheel trip report) 



    Route: Melvin's Wheel (5.8+, 3p)  The BOOKMARK

    Date: March 15, 2020     Partner: Will Starks

    This is a fun 5.8 route that climbs cracks up the left side of the Bookmark. 

    Will and I climbed this as the first of two routes on the Bookmark. It was pretty cold and windy (hey, it IS winter...), but this just added to the adventure. Next on the agenda was Backflip!
    Route overlay:
    Photos:
    Photo descriptions:
    Approach
    ~1 hour on trail from parking lot to base of The Bookmark, which is between the Bookend and the Book. Follow the trail signs to the Bookmark.
    1.    
       
       
      
    1. The cows seem to really like this section of trail....
    Pitch 
    1
    5.8. Climb a left-facing dihedral system, jam through a roof, and cut right to an awesome belay spot on the left end of Library Ledge.
    2.    
    3.    
    4.    
    5.    
     
     
     
      
    2. At the base of the route. The pitch starts at the dead snag. It was a chilly start. But hey, it is winter...
    3. A photo of the base of the route a few hours later, around 1pm. Looking a bit warmer now, but still holding shade on the lower section of the pitch.
    4. Will starting up Pitch 1. 
    5. Higher on Pitch 1. Sun!

    Pitch 
    2
    5.8+. Jam a perfect crack up the clean slab. Belay at a slung horn in an alcove below a wide crack/chimney.
    6.    
    7.    
    8.      
      
    6. Looking up the Pitch 2 splitter.
    7.
     Looking down at the cushy belay spot at the top of Pitch 1.
    8. Looking down the Pitch 2 splitter.
    Pitch 
    3
    5.8. Squeeze over a bulge and continue up a low-angled chimney system (just don't slip, you'd fall inside!) to a belay.
    9.    
    10.    
    11.    
    12.      
        
    9. Looking up the start of Pitch 3. Fun burly 5.8.
    10. Looking down from the start of Pitch 3. You can see the splitter of Pitch 2 below.
    11. The chimney at the top of Pitch 3. You could probably protect this with a #4 but its a bit easier to just stay above it and stem up it.
    12. Will at the belay at the top of the pitch.


    Top & Descent
    Look for a bolted rappel station just down from the west side of the summit block at the top of a gully system. Make two rappels down the gully to the ground below.
    13.    
    14.    
    15.    
    16.    
    17.    
    18.    
    19.    
    20.    
    13. The view is hard to beat.
    14. The route gives a great view of the splitter offwidth of Hot Licks across the way. I had climbed this a month previous.
    15.
     We had stopped short of the rappel, so we did a short pitch to get there. Nice exposure and flake features.
    16. Location of the first rappel.
    17. The first rappel goes down the gully to the west. Look for the bolted station just down and west from the summit.
    18. The second rappel to 2nd class terrain.
    19. Will discovered a Swiss man in his lunch.
    20. Close up of Mr. Swiss Man.


    Route: Romulan Territory (5.10b, 3p)  The BOOKMARK

    Date: November 10, 2019      Partner: Nate Arganbright

    An excellent route that climbs the major dihedral system in the center of the upper wall. 

    Nate and I climbed this as the first of a two-route day at Lumpy. Next on the agenda was Fat City Crack!
    Route overlay:
    Photos:
    Photo descriptions:
    Approach
    ~1 hour on trail from parking lot to base of The Bookmark, which is between the Bookend and the Book. Follow the trail signs to the Bookmark.
    (no photos)   
     
      
       
       
      

    Pitch 
    1
    via Marginal Line
    5.9+. Select a pitch to Library Ledge. Several options. We chose Marginal Line, which has a bouldery crux start into a seam, and from there follows fun and moderate terrain to Library Ledge.
    1.    
     
    1. Marginal Line start. This route had only one star in the guidebook but I thought it was pretty fun.
    Pitch 
    2
    5.10b. Climb the corner. There is a steep crux bulge midway up. The gear is a bit tricky but its all there if you look for it. Excellent climbing that tests your trad game.
    2.    
    3.    
      
    2. Looking up Pitch 2.
    3. Midway up Pitch 2. The crux is at the bulge about 20 feet above me.
    Pitch 
    3
    5.9. Climb up into the dihedral proper and lieback to its top, then undercling right to a belay stance. More excellent climbing.
    4.    
    5.    
        
    4. Nate starting up Pitch 3.
    5. A view down Pitch 3. Excellent rock. 


    Top & Descent
    To descend, scramble (4th) to the right and down to a slung horn. Make 1-2 raps depending on the length of your rope and your downclimbing comfort. We made a single rap with a 70m rope, bypassing an intermediate station along the way.
    6.  
    6. The view is hard to beat. That's Longs Peak in the distance.



    Route: Backflip (5.9, 3p)  The BOOKMARK

    Date: March 15, 2020     Partner: Will Starks

    This is a fun 5.9 route that climbs flakes and corners on the right side of the Bookmark. 

    Will and I climbed this route as two long pitches, and agreed this is a great way to climb it. Will and I climbed this as the second of two routes on the Bookmark. The first route had been Melvin's Wheel.
    Route overlay:
    Photos:
    Photo descriptions:
    Approach
    ~1 hour on trail from parking lot to base of The Bookmark, which is between the Bookend and the Book. Follow the trail signs to the Bookmark.
    (no photos)   
     
      
       
       
      

    Pitch 
    1
    5.8+. Climb the flake and corner to a flat ledge with a bolted anchor. You can belay here, or continue up mid-5th to Library Ledge. We continued up to Library Ledge, which is what I would recommend since it is easily linked.
    1.    
    2.    
    3.    
     
     
     
     
    1. Looking up Pitch 1.
    2. Looking down Pitch 1.
    3. Will just about at Library Ledge.

    Pitch 
    2
    5.8+. Lieback up the arching dihedral, and then traverse right with an undercling flake. Continue right to a belay stance. We linked with Pitch 3 to climb the route in two long pitches.
    4.      
      
    4. Will dancing through the undercling section on Pitch 2.

    Pitch 
    3
    5.9. Climb a thin crack and then move through a steep headwall. At the top of the pitch, you can continue up easy 5th to about 40 feet above the first rappel anchor, or just cut directly right to the rappel anchor.
    5.    
    6.    
    7.      
        
    5. Pitch 3.
    6. The thin crack. The piton mentioned in some older route descriptions is no more.
    7. The end of the route. You can continue up for about 40 more feet on easy cracks, or cut right directly to the first rap anchor.


    Top & Descent
    To descend, scramble (4th) to the right and down to a slung horn. Make 1-2 raps depending on the length of your rope and your downclimbing comfort. We made two raps with a 70m rope, since the final part (which I had downclimbed previously) was a bit dirty from winter runoff.
    8.    
    9.    
    10.    
      
    8-9. The view is hard to beat. Photos by Will.
    10. Rapping the descent chimney.


      The BOOK  

    Route: George's Tree (5.9, 5p)  The BOOK

    Date: July 12, 2018       Partner: George Foster

    An adventurous route following flared cracks all the way to the top. Gear is plentiful and climbing is sustained at 5.9.
    Route overlay:
    Photos:
    Photo descriptions:
    Approach
    ~1 hour on trail from parking lot to base of The Book.
    1.    
     
      
       
       
      
    1. View towards central RMNP from Lumpy. A nice morning. But a few more clouds than yesterday....


    Pitch 
    1
    5.9. Flared finger and hand crack with a dead tree 20 feet up.
    2.    
    3.    
    4.   
    2. Looking up Pitch 1. You can see the snag in the crack about 20 feet up.  (George was sad to find that his tree—once alive and located about 20 feet up Pitch 1—was now a dead snag. Apparently the tree that used to be there died in 2014.)
    3. The upper half of the pitch. Although flared, it takes good gear.
    4. George following the pitch with his dead snag just below him.

    Pitch 
    2
    5.8 or 10c. Step right to a 10c offwidth or step left and climb flakes to a 5.8 crack.
    5.    
    6.   
    7.    
    5. The 10c option for Pitch 2.
    6. The 5.8 option for Pitch 2. This follows the route Osiris for 50 feet then goes right up a 5.8 crack.
    7. Clouds developing above.
    Pitch 
    3
    5.9. Hand crack over a head-wall to Fang Ledge.
    8.    
    9.  
    8. Fun crack climbing on Pitch 3.
    9. As we were climbing, a helicopter was flying back and forth across the ridge carrying loads of water to try to control/put out a small fire on the other side of the ridge.


    4
    5.9. Hand crack to a ledge. Or continue on to link with Pitch 5.
    10.    
    11.    
    10. George starting up Pitch 4.
    11. Pitch 4 climbs to the base of the final headwall. Pitch 5 is a short pitch to the top. These are easily linked.
    Pitch 
    5
    5.7. Left-facing corner to the top.
    12. 
    12. The final corner to the top.

    Top & Descent
    To descend, scramble east from the summit and follow a climbers path (3rd/4th) down and around to the base.
    13.    
    14.    
    15.  
    13. Looking towards Longs Peak. We made it off the summit just as it began to rain. Wouldn't want to be on Longs right now....
    14. Elk beside the trail.
    15. Flowers beside the trail.



    Route: Fat City (5.10c, 4p)  The BOOK

    Date: November 10, 2019     Partner: Nate Arganbright

    The classic 5.10 at the book that tackles the arching roof at its center. 

    Nate and I climbed this as the second of an awesome two-route day at Lumpy—the first route of the day had been Romulan Tarritory.
    Route overlay:
    Photos:
    Photo descriptions:
    Approach
    ~1 hour on trail from parking lot to base of The Book.
    (no photos)   

    Pitch 
    1
    (we linked P1+P2)
    5.8. Climb an obvious crack system in the center of the slab. End at a bolted anchor or easily link with Pitch 2.
    1.    
      
    1. Looking up Pitch 1.

    Pitch 
    2
    (we linked P1+P2)
    5.10c. The crux pitch that has a bit of everything. Delicate moves up a thin crack, an exciting hand traverse, a squeeze up a slot, and pulling over a roof. Awesome!
    2.    
    3.    
       
    2. The start of Pitch 2, as seen from bolted anchor at top of Pitch 1.
    3. Looking down from belay at top of Pitch 2. The belay is at a small foot stance not far above the roof. We linked Pitches 1 & 2 so Nate is still on Pitch 2 in the photo. 
    Pitch 
    3
    (we linked P3+P4)
    5.9. Lieback a leaning flake/seam, which leads to a ramp and then the Cave. 
    4.    
     
    4. Nate near the end of the fun leaning flake/seam on Pitch 3.


    4
    via Hurley Traverse

    (we linked P3+P4)
    5.7 or 5.9. There are several options for Pitch 4. We chose to do the Hurley Traverse (via 5.9 direct start) up and right, which is a fun pitch.
    5.    
    5. Hurley Traverse. Steep for 5.7!
    Top & Descent
    To descend, scramble east from the summit and follow a climbers path (3rd/4th) down and around to the base.
    (no photos) 



    Route: Loose Ends (5.9, 4p) + Cheap Date (10b, 1p) + Outlander (10c, 1p)  The BOOK

    Date: July 11, 2018       Partner: George Foster

    An excellent 6-pitch link-up to the top involving lots of fingercracks and laybacking.
    Route overlay:
    Photos:
    Photo descriptions:
    Approach
    ~1 hour on trail from parking lot to base of The Book.
    1.   
    2.    
    1. The turnoff to The Book. The trail is very nice and clearly marked.
    2. The Book. (This photo was taken as we hiked out. The sun hit the walls around 11am. We climbed in the early morning since it can be quite hot in the sun at Lumpy.)

    Pitch 
    1
    Loose Ends
    LOOSE ENDS 5.9. Thin layback corner.
     
    3.    
    4.    
    5.    
    3. Looking up Pitch 1, which starts with a pumpy layback corner with good finger locks and calf pump. (This photo was taken after we climbed the route, when the sun had hit the wall.)
    4. Upper part of Pitch 1.
    5. George following Pitch 1.

    Pitch 
    2
    Loose Ends
    LOOSE ENDS 5.9. Thin crack up face with insecure jams at the short crux.
    6.    
    7.    

    6. George starting off Pitch 2. He's at the crux on insecure finger locks; after the short crux, the crack is cruiser and fun.
    7. Looking down the Pitch 2 crack.


    Pitch 
    3
    Loose Ends
    LOOSE ENDS 5.9. Layback the dihedral.
    8.    
    9.    
     
       
      
      

    8. Pitch 3, fun laybacking.
    9. Looking down Pitch 3.


    Pitch 
    4
    Loose Ends
    LOOSE ENDS 5.easy. Easy climbing to the Cave.
    10.  10. Pitch 4 is 5.easy to the base of the Cave. From here you have several options: climb out of the Cave by one of a few routes or climb Cheap Date + Outlander. We chose the latter since it meant two more pitches of great climbing, at a slightly harder grade than Loose Ends.


    Pitch 
    5
    Cheap Date
    CHEAP DATE 5.10b. Left leaning finger-crack with slabby feet.
    11.    
    12.  
    11. Cheap Date is a left leaning fingercrack with great finger locks to hang out on as you fiddle around to try to set gear in a sideways position.
    12. The upper crack on Cheap Date. Sewed it up with yellow aliens, grey C4s, and purple-grey and grey-blue offsets.


    Pitch 
    6
    Out-lander
    OUTLANDER 5.10c. Pumpy moves through a steep pod and crack.
    13.    
    14.  
    13. George just below the pumpy crux of Outlander.
    14. Outlander.

    Top & Descent
    To descend, scramble east from the summit and follow a climbers path (3rd/4th) down and around to the base.
    15.    
    16.    
    17.    
    15. The view looking towards the heart of RMNP (Longs Peak, etc.)
    16. Looking west along Lumpy Ridge. Sundance Buttress is at the far end.
    17. Horsemint on the trail.




    Route: J-Crack (5.9 C1, 3-4p)  The BOOK

    Date: July 22, 2018       Partner: Dow Williams

    One of Lumpy's most popular climbs, whose second pitch climbs an awesome 200-foot finger and hand crack in the shape of a backwards J.
    Route overlay:
    Photos:
    Photo descriptions:
    Approach
    ~1 hour on trail from parking lot to base of The Book.
       
      
     

    Pitch 
    1
    5.7. Easy corner to a nice ledge.
    1.   
    1. Looking up Pitch 1.
    Pitch 
    2
    (guidebook lists as 2 pitches)
    5.9 C1. Traverse left into the J, and climb up the awesome finger and hand crack. For the last 20-30 feet, the crack steepens. Here there are 3 options:
    (1) Climb straight up, 11c or 5.9 C1 on good gear.
    (2) Set a piece in the crack, downclimb a bit, and face climb right (10a) into an easy groove which you can climb to the top of the crack
    (3) Face climb left (5.9) to the crack of Visual Aids.
    We went straight up (Option 1). The guidebook lists this as two pitches. Done as a single pitch, it is an amazing 215 foot lead and avoids a hanging belay.
    2.    
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    2. Dow starting off Pitch 2. The traverse over is fairly easy on a foot ledge level with the belay.
    3. Dow cruising up the crack.
    4. The crack.
    5. The crack. The guidebook calls it a "finger crack" but I would call it a "finger and hand crack" since I feel like I did just about as many hand jams as finger jams.
    6. The crack continues up the steepening headwall. Here you can choose to continue straight up (5.11c or 5.9 C1) or se a high piece and traverse right or left. 
    7. Just a minor scrape, says Dow. Doesn't even hurt.
    Pitch 
    3
    via
    Hurley Traverse
    5.7. Here you have options as well:
    (1) Climb up and right to a break in the overhang and climb through to easy ground (5.7).
    (2)
    Climb up and left to the Cave (5.easy). Exit the Cave in some way:
        (a) Hurley Traverse (5.7) which hand traverses rightward out of the cave.
        (b) The Cave Exit (5.8) which climbs straight and exits via weird stems and twists.
        (c) Continue left onto Cheap Date (10b) + Outlander (10c) for a nice linkup.
    We chose the Hurley Traverse option, which was a fun choice.
    8.    
    9.    
    10.    
    11.   
    8. Above the J Crack pitch, continue easily up to base of cave (or climb right and up).
    9. Looking up at the Cave. Cave Exit goes up the V while Hurly Traverse traverses right on a hand rail.
    10. Hurley Traverse.
    11. Dow following the Hurley Traverse.
    Top & Descent
    To descend, scramble east from the top of the Cave and follow a climbers path (3rd/4th) down and around to the base.
      



    Route: Femp w/ The Cavity start and Hemp finish (5.10b, 3p)  The BOOK

    Date: June 27, 2020     Partner: Nate Arganbright

    This route climbs the beautiful, long crack on the right side of the J-Crack slab. Starting with The Cavity and ending with Hemp adds some high-quality 5.10 climbing.

    After this climb, we did a bit of cragging at the base of the Book. Another great day at Lumpy.
    Route overlay:
    Photos:
    Photo descriptions:
    Approach
    ~1 hour on trail from parking lot to base of The Book.
    1.    
    2.   
    1. Some penstemon.
    2. Penstemon and The Book in the background.
    Pitch 
    1
    The Cavity
    5.5 or 5.10a. For the 5.5 option, follow the line of least resistance to reach a ledge at the base of the obvious crack. For the 10a option, climb The Cavity which goes out the right side of a huge crystalline pocket which contains a large tree. We climbed The Cavity which I would recommend because it was great climbing.
    3.    
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    3. The Cavity.
    4. Giant quartz crystals.


    Pitch 
    2
    5.9. Climb the crack to a thin corner and stretch the rope out to a stance. This is a long pitch.
    5.     
       
    5. Looking up Pitch 2. Fun crack climbing ahead!
    Pitch 
    3
    Hemp
    5.8 or 5.9+ or 5.10b or 5.11a. There are several variations for this pitch. The original line (5.8) goes up and left from the belay. A 10b variation called Hemp goes straight up the steep corner above the belay. Then above this, there are a few ways to climb through the roof band (Right Exit =  5.7, Pod = 5.11a, Just right of pod = 5.9+). We climbed Hemp and took the 5.7 exit.
    6.    
    7.     
     
    6. Looking up Pitch 3. The 5.8 finish goes left, and Hemp (which we climbed) goes straight up the steep corner.
    7. The Right Exit starts on the left side of the brown roof. There are some harder finish options that go through the roof.

    Top & Descent
    To descend, scramble east from the summit and follow a climbers path (3rd/4th) down and around to the base.
    (no photos) 



    Cragging:   The BOOK
    Routes (June 27): Endless Crack Pitch 1 (5.9, 1p), Mission Impossible Pitch 1 (5.10a, 1p), Mission Accomplished (5.11a, 1p), Fascist Drill in the West (5.11b, 1p)
    Routes (July 3): Road Kill (5.10b, 1p), Living Dead (5.11b, 2p), Dead Boy Direct (5.11d, 1p)

    Dates: June 27, 2020 & July 3, 2020       Partner: Nate Arganbright (June 27 & July 3) & Shawn May (July 3)

    June 27, 2020: Nate and I had just climbed Femp and decided to tack on some more pitches. I led up Endless Crack Pitch 1 and then we were able to toprope the other three routes from the anchor.

    July 3, 2020: Nate, Shawn, and I spent half a day cragging in the Book Binding area. We climbed three excellent long routes.
    Route Overlay:
    Photos:
    Photo descriptions:
    1.    
    2.    
    3.    
    4.    
    5.    
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    10.    
    1. Endless Crack Pitch 1.
    2. Nate climbing up Endless Crack Pitch 1. The traverse over to the corner is where Endless crack becomes not so endless.
    3. Nate on the final stretch of Endless Crack Pitch 1, which shares the finish with Mission Impossible Pitch 1.
    4. Looking up Mission Impossible and Mission Accomplished.
    5. Nate cruising up a toprope lap on Fascist rill in the West.
    6. Pretty purple flower.
    7. Nate climbing Road Kill to Living Dead in the corridor below Dead Boy and Living Dead. 

    8. Shawn climbing Road Kill.
    9. Shawn climbing Road Kill.
    10. Nate leading Living Dead.

      TWIN OWLS  

    Cragging:   TWIN OWLS
    Routes: Cackle Crack (5.8, 1p), Hagakure (5.12a, 1p), Rooster Tail (5.9+, 1p), Tighter Squeeze (5.8-, 1p), East Ridge Pitch 2 (5.8, 1p), The Bowels of the Owls (5.0, descent solo), Yosemite Crack (5.9-, 1p), Coyote (5.12b, 1p), Tiger's Tooth Pitch 1 (5.9+, 1p)

    Date: September 28, 2019       Partner: Nate Arganbright

    What a great place to spend an early fall day.
    Twin Owls photo
    Photos:
    Photo descriptions:
    1.    
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    1. Cackle Crack (5.8, 1p, trad). Fun stuff.
    2. Tighter Squeeze (5.8-, 1p, trad). Yeah, a bit of a tight squeeze.
    3. Tighter Squeeze (5.8-, 1p, trad). Bring a #6!
    4. Yosemite Crack (5.9-, 1p, trad). Started pretty mellow but began to feel like Yosemite 5.9 about halfway up....no reason to bring anything but a #3 and #4's on this climb. I love this kind of burly crack climbing.
    5. Tiger's Tooth (5.9+) follows the corner. Coyote (12b sport) follows the arete.
    6. Twin Owls on the hike out.
    7. Flaming aspen. 
    8. Flaming aspen.




    List of climbs I've done at Lumpy Ridge

    Since I've also done some single-pitch cragging that does not appear in the above trip reports, here is a complete list of climbs I've done at Lumpy Ridge, mainly just for my own records.

    (Features arranged West to East, Routes in Alphabetical order)
    CLIMB DIFFICULTY

        =multi-pitch
    AREA

    Color-coded:
       =Sundance Buttress
       =The Pear
       =The Citadel
       =The Bookend
       =Left Book
       =The Bookmark
       =The Book
       =Twin Owls
       =Crescent Wall
    DATE CLIMBED
    Color-coded: 
    Spring
    Summer
    Fall
    Winter
    Kor's Flake 5.7+, 5p Sundance Buttress Feb 22, 2020
    Mainliner 5.9, 5p Sundance Buttress July 21, 2018
    Sidetrack 5.9, 4-6p Sundance Buttress Feb 2, 2020
    Turnkorner 5.10b, 7p Sundance Buttress Aug 3, 2018
    Dextrous Digits 5.9+, 1p The Pear June 30, 2020
    Gina's Surprise (last pitch) 5.4, 1p The Pear June 30, 2020
    Right Dihedral 5.9, 2p The Pear June 30, 2020
    Heart of Norway 5.10c, 2p The Citadel June 30, 2020
    Climb of the Ancient Mariner 5.10a, 3p The Bookend May 27, 2020
    Hot Licks 5.9, 4p The Bookend Feb 22, 2020
    Sorcerer, The 5.8+, 4p The Bookend June 2, 2020
    White Whale 5.7, 3p Left Book June 2, 2020
    Backflip 5.9, 3p The Bookmark Mar 15, 2020
    Fantasy Ridge 5.9, 3p The Bookmark May 27, 2020
    Joy and Tribulation (Pitch 3) 5.8, 1p The Bookmark May 27, 2020
    Marginal Line 5.9+, 1p The Bookmark Nov 10, 2019
    Melvin's Wheel 5.8+, 3p The Bookmark Mar 15, 2020
    Romulan Territory 5.10b, 3p The Bookmark Nov 10, 2019
    Sidewinder (Pitches 1 & 2) 5.8, 2p The Bookmark May 27, 2020
    Cavity, The 5.10a, 1p The Book June 27, 2020
    Cheap Date 5.10b, 1p The Book July 11, 2018
    Dead Boy Direct 5.11d, 1p The Book July 3, 2020
    Endless Crack (Pitch 1) 5.9, 1p The Book June 27, 2020
    Fascist Drill in the West 5.11b, 1p The Book June 27, 2020
    Fat City 5.10c, 4p The Book Nov 10, 2019
    Femp (w/ Cavity start and Hemp finish) 5.10b, 3p The Book June 27, 2020
    George's Tree 5.9, 5p The Book July 12, 2018
    Hemp 5.10b, 1p The Book June 27, 2020
    Hurley Traverse 5.7 or 5.9, 1p The Book
    July 22, 2018;
    Nov 10, 2019
    J-Crack 5.9, 3-4p The Book July 22, 2018
    Living Dead 5.11b, 2p The Book July 3, 2020
    Loose Ends 5.9, 4p The Book July 11, 2018
    Mission Accomplished 5.11a, 1p The Book June 27, 2020
    Mission Impossible (Pitch 1) 5.10a, 1p The Book June 27, 2020
    Outlander 5.10c, 1p The Book July 11, 2018
    Road Kill 5.10b, 1p The Book July 3, 2020
    Bowels of the Owls, The 5.0, 1p, solo Twin Owls Sept 28, 2019
    Cackle Crack 5.8, 1p Twin Owls Sept 28, 2019
    Coyote 5.12b, 1p Twin Owls Sept 28, 2019
    East Ridge (Pitch 2) 5.8, 1p Twin Owls Sept 28, 2019
    Hagakure 5.12a, 1p Twin Owls Sept 28, 2019
    Rooster Tail 5.9+, 1p Twin Owls Sept 28, 2019
    Tiger's Tooth (Pitch 1) 5.9+, 1p Twin Owls Sept 28, 2019
    Tighter Squeeze 5.8-, 1p Twin Owls Sept 28, 2019
    Yosemite Crack 5.9-, 1p Twin Owls Sept 28, 2019