LIST OF CLIMBS + 1 "TRIP REPORT")
Category: Colorado
Elev: ~6,900 ft
Rock Type: Granitic
 
2020
 

MARY'S BUST Climbing


Mary's Bust is a large south-facing cliff towering above the north side of US 34 about 8 miles east of Estes Park. The rock is granitic with lots of quartz intrusions and pockets of mica. The routes range from 1 to 6 pitches, with difficulties from 5.6 to 5.13. Most of the climbing is sport but there are some trad climbs as well. The approach is quite quick.

Mary's Bust - Main Buttress

The first time I climbed at Mary's Bust was in August 2020, during a stretch of weather where early afternoon thundershowers were shutting down bigger alpine objectives. My partner and I climbed two of the longest routes at Mary's Bust: The Brown Palace followed by The Broadmoor.

Since I'll likely climb again at this area, I just keep a list of the climbs I've done there (on this page). Below the list, I've also included my original trip report from the first day I climbed here (made to establish this page on my website), and below that I have photos from subsequent random days of cragging at Mary's Bust.



ON THIS PAGE:

LINK 
List of climbs I've done at Mary's Bust
Photo trip report for The Brown Palace (5.11a, 6p, sport) (MAIN BUTTRESS) 
Photo trip report for The Broadmoor (5.10b, 4p, sport) (MAIN BUTTRESS) 
AUG
3
2020
  TR #: 439




(Quite small)List of climbs I've done at Mary's Bust

(Alphabetical order)
CLIMB DIFFICULTY

    =multi-pitch
AREA

Color-coded:
    =Main Buttress
DATE CLIMBED

Color-coded: 
Spring
Summer
Fall
Winter
The Broadmoor 5.10b, 4p, sport Main Buttress Aug 3, 2020
The Brown Palace 5.11a, 6p, sport Main Buttress Aug 3, 2020


Photos
A trip report for the longest routes at Mary's Bust


Route: The Brown Palace (5.11a, 6p, sport)   MAIN BUTTRESS

Date: August 3, 2020     Partner: Giles Eperon

The Brown Palace climbs the entire length of the 400+ foot southeast face of Mary's Bust. The route's six pitches range in difficulty from 5.9 to 5.11a and are entirely bolt protected. For the most part, the route follows a 4-foot wide dike. 

Giles and I were up and down this route in a couple of hours. It looked like the afternoon thundershowers would hold off for at least a few more hours (after all it was still mid-morning when we finished!), and we had enjoyed The Brown Palace and weren't yet ready to end the fun, so we decided to head back up via The Broadmoor.

The following gives a pitch-by-pitch breakdown for our climb of The Brown Palace. 
Route Overlay:
Photos:
Photo descriptions:
Approach 
About 5 minutes from the car, on the left side of the main buttress. You can see the route from the road. There is a climbers trail up to the base.
(no photos)  
  
  
 
  
  
 
   

Pitch 
1
5.9-, 70 feet, 6 bolts. 
1.    
2.    
1. Looking up Pitch 1, which heads right to a bolted anchor.
2.
 Looking down on Pitch 1 from the belay.

Pitch 
2
5.10c, 85 feet, 9 bolts. 
3.   3. Looking up Pitch 2.

Pitch
3
5.11a, 85 feet, 9 bolts. 
4.    
5.    
6.     
4. Looking up Pitch 3.
5. Looking up the crux section.
6. Giles nearing the top of the pitch.


Pitch
4
5.11a, 40 feet, 4 bolts. 
7.    
7. Giles starting up Pitch 4. A short pitch with a short crux.

Pitch
5
5.10, 120 feet, 12 bolts.
 8.  
8. Looking up Pitch 5.

Pitch
6
5.10d, 70 feet, 9 bolts.
9.     
9. Giles starting off the final pitch to the top. 


Descent
Rap the route with a single rope (95', 90', 40', 85', 95', 70').
10.    11   10. Looking down from the top of the route just before starting the rappels.
11. Rappelling.



Route: The Broadmoor (5.10b, 4p, sport)   MAIN BUTTRESS

Date: August 3, 2020     Partner: Giles Eperon

The Broadmoor climbs four pitches of relatively sustained 5.10a/b bolted face. It is possible to continue up to link with the final pitch of The Brown Palace for a six pitch route to the top. But Giles and I had just climbed The Brown Palace so we just did the four pitches of The Broadmoor and then rappelled.

The following gives a pitch-by-pitch breakdown for our climb of The Broadmoor. 
Route Overlay:
Photos:
Photo descriptions:
Approach 
Approach as per The Brown Palace. Route starts about 100 feet right of The Brown Palace.
(no photos)  
 
  

 
 
 

Pitch 
1
5.10b, ~90 feet, 8-9 bolts. (This is the same pitch as the first pitch of Maternal Damnation. You could also climb Dynamite to these anchors.)
1.    
2.      
1. Quartz at the start of Pitch 1.
2. Looking down Pitch 1 from the belay. We climbed Maternal 

Pitch 
2
5.10a, ~90 feet, 8-9 bolts. 
 
3.    
4.    

3. Pitch 2.
4. A nice stretch of rock on Pitch 2. This is some of the best climbign on the route. 

Pitch
3
5.10a, ~90 feet, 8-9 bolts. 
5.    
6.    
x   
5. Looking up Pitch 3.
6. Giles topping out at the nice ledge at the top of Pitch 3.


Pitch
4
5.10a, ~90 feet, 8-9 bolts + optional #0.75 or #1 cam.
7.    
8.    
   
7. Giles starting up Pitch 4.
8. Large quartz crystals near the end of Pitch 4.


Descent
Rap the route with a single rope.
9.    
10.    
9. Rapping.
10. The afternoon thundershower. Yep, not the greatest day for the alpine.