CLIMBING ROADTRIP JUNE 2007
FIRST STOP: RED ROCKS, NV
SECOND STOP: YOSEMITE, CA
THIRD STOP: ROCKY MTN NP, CO

JUNE
3-4
2007

First Stop: Red Rocks DOGMA and EPINEPHRINE
Category: Nevada      Trip Report #: 44
Partner: Ross Peritore

The following page details our 2 days of climbing at Red Rocks. It was HOT but the routes were long and spectacular.

June 3
Dogma on Mt. Wilson
2000 ft, 10 of 15 pitches, 5.11c
We arrived in Red Rocks on the night of June 2. On June 3 we climbed Dogma on Mt. Wilson. This is a steep 2000 ft 15-pitch route, with some hard climbing. After baking in the 105° heat on the crux 5.11c pitch on the upper wall, our ice cold drinks in the cooler were sounding mighty good and we decided to rap down. It was just too hot to climb in the direct sun.
Topo for Dogma, from MountainProject.com
Approaching Mt. Wilson (on the left in the photo). The approach to the base of Mt Wilson was under an hour, but getting to the base of the technical climbing requites about another hour of class 3 and 4 scrambling up a gully.
The steep upper headwall on Dogma. The first couple of pitches are slightly overhanging and the crux of the route (5.11c).

June 4
Epinephrine on Black Velvet Wall
2000 ft, 15 pitches, 5.9
The next day we decided to climb a route in the shade. Epinephrine is an 15-pitch Red Rocks classic known for its extensive chimney system and 2000 feet of fun moderate climbing (5.7-5.9).

The trailhead was located just as described in the Red Rocks guidebook (a few miles down a dirt road off HWY 160 just before mile marker 16). From here, it was a 45 minute walk through desert and then a creek bed to the base of the route clearly marked by the large chimney system above.

The first couple of pitches were fun face climbing. Then the chimneys started. Four hundred feet of chimneyliscious thrusting and grunting. Ross scored a nearly new #3 Camelot half way through. The great thing about the chimneys was the shade, although with the 100° heat, we were still dripping with sweat.

After the chimneys was about 1000 ft of steep juggy 5.7-5.8, which, although easy, was quality stuff and lots of fun. But were literally baking in the sun, and probably. (June is not the month to be climbing in Red Rocks, which we knew before we left for the trip, but had to assure ourselves of anyway.) We arrived at the top of Epinephrine 6.5 hours after we began the first pitch.

For the descent, we followed the instructions in the Red Rocks guidebook (traverse the ridge southeast over to Mt. Wilson, and descend the gully down to the creek bed at the base of Frogland). The descent was mostly hiking, with a bit of Class 3 scrambling, and one rappel from a tree. The descent back to our packs at the base of Epinephrine took 1.5 hours.

Epinephrine was a fun route, one I would definitely do again!
Route topo for Epinephrine, SuperTopo.com. The chimneys are where the red line disappears behind the rock.
Grunting up the rad chimney pitches.
The "non-epic" descent comes down the gully on the right of the photo. This is near the Frogland route.


*Also see Ross’s post on Cascade Climbers.com for more photos and commentary.



Other Photos from Red Rocks

I took a few non-climbing photos while I was in Red Rocks. Some are below.



The Climbing Adventures Continue....

We lasted 2 days in the 100+ degree heat at Red Rocks before heading for Yosemite, California. We stayed a couple of weeks climbing some stellar Valley classics. After Yosemite, we headed for some climbing in Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado.
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