RED ROCKS Spring Break 2019
Climb 1: Xxx (5.x, xp, xxx')
Climb 2: Xxx (5.x, xp, xxx')
Climb 3: Xxx (5.x, xp, xxx')
Climb 4: Xxx (5.x, xp, xxx')
Climb 5: Xxx (5.x, xp, xxx')
Climb 6: Xxx (5.x, xp, xxx')
Climb 7: Xxx (5.x, xp, xxx')

MAR
22-30
2019
TR #: xxx

Category: Nevada       Elev: 4,000-6,000 ft       Rock Type: Aztec Sandstone

Partner: xxx

xxx

Trip Report Template for next time I go to Red Rocks. Spring Break 2019!







INTRO

Spring Break 2019 was my eighth trip to Red Rocks.....never an end to the adventures to be had here....

Routes we climbed:
Climb 1 Mar 23 Xxx (5.xx, xx pitches, xxx') Xxx Wall, Xxx Canyon /w xxx
Climb 2 Mar 24 Xxx (5.xx, xx pitches, xxx') Xxx Wall, Xxx Canyon /w xxx
Climb 3 Mar 25 Xxx (5.xx, xx pitches, xxx') Xxx Wall, Xxx Canyon /w xxx
Climb 4 Mar 26 Xxx (5.xx, xx pitches, xxx') Xxx Wall, Xxx Canyon /w xxx
Climb 5 Mar 27 Xxx (5.xx, xx pitches, xxx') Xxx Wall, Xxx Canyon /w xxx
Climb 6 Mar 28 Xxx (5.xx, xx pitches, xxx') Xxx Wall, Xxx Canyon /w xxx
Climb 7 Mar 29 Xxx (5.xx, xx pitches, xxx') Xxx Wall, Xxx Canyon /w xxx
Climb 8 Mar 30 Xxx (5.xx, xx pitches, xxx') Xxx Wall, Xxx Canyon /w xxx

My favorite route from the trip? Xxx

PHOTOS AND OVERLAYS FROM CLIMBS

CLIMB 1 - MAR XX - w/ XXX

Xxx (5.xx, xx pitches, xxx')
on Xxx Wall in Xxx Canyon  
Description. 
FA: Xxx, 19xx.
Route overlay:
(Pitches as per Handren guide) Photos: Notes:

PITCH

1
(5.8, 110')
    no numbers on photos

PITCH
2
(5.8+, 140')



PITCH
3
(5.7, 110')



PITCH
4
(5.5, 500')


PITCH
5
(5.9, 160')


PITCH
6
(5.10a, 110')


PITCH
7
(5.8, 120')


PITCH
8
(5.6, 120')


DESCENT

(3 raps with a single 70)


OTHER PHOTOS FROM THE DAY
  


CLIMB - MAR XX - w/ XXX
Xxx (5.xx, xx pitches, xxx')
on Xxx Buttress on Xxx Peak in Xxx Canyon  
Description
FA: xxx, 19xx.
Route overlay:
(Pitches as per Handren guide) Photos: Notes:

PITCH

1
(5.10a, 70')



PITCH 
2
(5.10a, 90')



PITCH 
3
(5.7, 70')



PITCH
4
(5.5, 500')


PITCH
5
(5.5, 500')


DESCENT

(3 raps with a single 70)


OTHER PHOTOS FROM THE DAY



CLIMB 3 - MAR XX - w/ XXX
Xxx (5.xx, xx pitches, xxx'
on Xxx Buttress in Xxx Canyon
Description
FA: Joe Herbst, Larry Hamilton, 1976.

Route overlay:
 
(Pitches as per Handren guide) Photos: Notes:

PITCH 

1
(5.7, 180')
        

PITCH
2
(5.8, 160')


PITCH
3
(5.4, 100')


PITCH
4
(5.9, 120')



PITCH
5
(5.9, 120')
  

PITCH
6
(5.4, 110')


PITCH
7
(5.9+, 150')
 

DESCENT



OTHER PHOTOS FROM THE DAY



CLIMB 4 - MAR XX - w/ XXX
Xxx (5.xx, xx pitches, xxx'
on Xxx Wall in Xxx Canyon
Description
FA: Jorge & Joanne Urioste, 1980.

Route overlay:
(Pitches as per Handren guide) Photos: Notes:

APPROACH


PITCH 

1
(5.9, 90')
 

PITCH
2
(5.7, 120')


PITCH
3
(5.10a, 160')


PITCH
4
(5.10c, 90')


PITCH
5
(5.10a, 120')


PITCH
6
(5.10a, 50')



PITCH
7
(5.8 A0, 60')



PITCH
8
(5.10b, 40')


PITCH
9
(5.10c, 100')


PITCH
10
(5.9, 130')



DESCENT



OTHER PHOTOS FROM THE DAY



CLIMB 5 - MAR XX - w/ XXX
Xxx (5.x, x pitches, xxx')
on Xxx Wall in Xxx Canyon  
Description
FA: Joe Herbst & Randal Grandstaff, 1974

Route overlay:
(Pitches as per Handren guide) Photos: Notes:

PITCH

1
(5.7+, 110')
        

PITCH
2
(5.5, 100')


PITCH
3
(5.7+, 120')


PITCH
4
(5.5, 120')


PITCH
5
(5.6, 150')
  

PITCH
6
(5.7, 150')



DESCENT


OTHER PHOTOS FROM CLIMB




CLIMBS 6 - MAR XX - w/ XXX
Xxxx (5.xx, x pitches, xxx'
on Xxx Peak in Xxx Canyon
Description
FA: Jorge & Joanne Urioste, Dan Goodwin, 1981.

Route overlay:
Notes:
  • History of route xxx
  • Origin of route namexxx
(Pitches as per Handren guide) Photos: Notes:

PITCH

1
(5.11c, 70')




PITCH
2
(5.10a, 60')



PITCH
3
(5.10d, 60')



PITCH
4
(5.9, 80')

 

PITCH
5
(5.8, 80')



PITCH
6
(5.5, 30')



PITCH
7
(5.9+, 120')



PITCH
8
(5.10a, 165')

   

PITCH
9
(5.10a, 165')


PITCH
10
(5.10a, 165')


PITCH
11
(5.10a, 165')


PITCH
12
(5.10a, 165')


PITCH
13
(5.10a, 165')




CLIMB 7 - MAR XX - /w XXX
Xxx (5.xx, xx pitches, xxx')
on xxx
xxx
FA: xxx
Route overlay:
(Pitches as per Handren guide) Photos: Notes:

APPROACH



PITCH

1
(5.9+, 90')
(~7 bolts, no gear)
                       

PITCH
2
(5.10c, 100')
(~10 bolts, no gear but you can place a 0.5 cam if you want)



PITCH
3
(5.8, 130')
(~12 bolts, no gear)



PITCH
4
(5.9, 140')
(Gear + a few bolts)



PITCH
5
(5.7, 130')
(All gear)



PITCH
6
(5th, 130')
(Small gear + a few bolts)



PITCH
7
(5.9, 165')
(All gear)



PITCH
8
(5.9+, 130')
(Gear + a few bolts)



PITCH
9
(5.9, 50')
(~5 bolts, no gear)

(we linked with Pitch 10)



PITCH
10
(5.9, 110')
(~12 bolts, no gear)

(can be linked with Pitch 9)

P

PITCH
11
(5.9, 60')
(~5 bolts, no gear)

(we linked easily with Pitch 12)



PITCH
12
(5.10c, 70')
(~7 bolts + a few offset nuts to supplement)

(we linked easily with Pitch 11)



TOP OF ROUTE!




DESCENT

(rappel route with 2 ropes)





single pitch
10d-11c    mud spring wing   36    mud springs      very good rock, not crowded   S-E

Routes <500ft
grade  ft                   page    area             notes
10c   380  risky business   242    pine creek       10b/90, 10b/100, 10c/120, 10a/70   N
This is a tremendous route straight up the center of the Dark Shadows wall. Generally the protection is reasonable, although all the pitches have sections of pretty pushy climbing.
10c   445  the nightcrawler 194    juniper          5.7/150, 5.9/120, 10c/100, 10c/65    SE
Climbs the corner system on the right side of the Hourglass. The clean-cut corners on the 3rd and 4th pitches are the best of their grade in Red Rocks, with sustained and well-protected climbing on superb rock.
10d   180  red zinger       169    oak creek	    10c/90, 10d/90    W
A superb corner crack.
10d   200  the next century 238    pine creek	    5.9/80, 10d/120    E
A varnished pillar which marks the right edge of the East Face of the Mescalito. The second pitch (slab) is superb.
10d   240  our father        55    bvc		    5.7/70, 5.9/95, 10d/75   NE
Climbs the crack system on the right side of the pillar. Final pitch is a burly hand and finger rack with little in the way of footholds, not your typical Red Rocks corner at all.
10d   240  breakaway        277    icebox	    5.7/100, 10d/140    N
This route climbs an impressive black streak.
10d   400  fear & loathing  260    pine creek       5.7/75, 10d/110, 10b/215    S
Climbs the right hand of the two impressive lines in the dark, red cliff at the top of Gemstone Gully. Pitches 2 & 3 have some of the best crack climbing of the grade in red rocks.
11a   390  bighorn buttress 296    willow springs   10b/150, 11a/80, 10a/80, 10b/80   NE
This is a beautiful route with great rock and interesting climbing. It is a little bold in places.
11a   430  enterprise       229    pine creek       10a/165, 10b/70, 10b/110, 11a/50   N
An elegant series of left-leaning corners. Mostly good rock, but watch out for the occasional loose block.
11a   450  seppuku          136    oak creek        11a/130, 5.9/120, 5.9/200    N
Climbs the central of three cracks. It appears as a wide crack, splitting a varnished face, with a characteristic left kink about 120 feet up. Doubles to 7 inch.
11b   240  delicate/thunder 55     bvc              11b/140, 11a/100    NE
Finds an improbable line up the front of the pillar.
11b   270  slick willy      119    mt wilson        11b/160, 11a/110    N?
A short bolt ladder leads to a long, smooth corner/crack, one of the nicest in all of Red Rocks. Burly and very sustained.
11b   385  huckleberries    83     bvc              10a/120, 11b/90, 10c/85, 11a/90    NE
Climbs a long, thin rack system on the right side of the face.
11b   400  voyager          229    pine creek       10a/165, 10b/100, 11b/130    N
Climbs the left-slanting corner/flake. One of the longest, cleanest, and most aesthetic crack pitches in Red Rocks. Runout face of unknown grade??
11c   220  free willy       119    mt wilson        11a/70, 11c/70, 11a/80    N?
Excellent crack climb. Clean-cut corner crack.
Routes >500ft and <1000ft
8    770  jubilant song     25    windy peak       5.7/80, 5.7/150, 5.5/150, 5.7/60, 5.8/60, 5.7/10, 5.8/100, 5.5/70    S
A great route up a high, exposed wall, with a beautiful summit and a fast descent. This route is popular but, surprisingly, seldom crowded.
8+    790  community pillar 216    pine creek        5.8/160, 5.6/150, 5.8+/130, 5.7/100, 5.8/90, 4th/160  N    
a great line and some unique situations make this an appealing climb. There are some very runout sections, but at least the climbing feels fairly secure, as long as you are comfortable with wide cracks.
8+    880  rainbow buttress 150    oak creek        5.6/100, 5.8/60, 5.7/130, 5.7/90, 5.6/90, 5.8+/160, 5.5/100, 5.5/150  SE    
A great old-style classic. There are no fixed anchors or protection on the route, the approach and descent are long and tiring, and the climbing is a series of stout crack pitches. Overall the route feels remote, serious, and very rewarding.
9    900  honeycomb chimney 216    pine creek        ?/?, 5.7/200, 3rd/?, 5.7/?, 5.8/?, 4th/?, 5.9/?, 5.7/?  N    
This surprisingly good route goes up the left edge of the Community Pillar. Halfway up is a dark chimney. This is the Honeycomb Chimney and is the main landmark of this route.
10b    700  unimpeachable groping 176    juniper canyon        10a/105, 10b/110, 10a/40, 10b/120, 10b/80, 10b/80, 5.8/160   E  
This multi-pitch sport route climbs straight up the east face of Ginger Buttress. With exposed and exciting wall climbing and a beautiful location, this route deserves to become popular.
10d   550  adventure punks  231    pine creek	    10b/120, 10b/110, 10a/80, 10b/90, 10d/120    M
A great route up one of the bier lines in Red Rocks. The rock is excellent and the climbing interesting and sustained.
10d   560  challenger       231    pine creek       10d/90, 10d/90, 10b/75, 10b/70    N
An excellent, varied climb. Long, clean-cut cracks/corners, few face holds, very windy.
11a   540  X15              229    pine creek       10d/180, 10b/150, 10d/100, 11a/110    N
Follows the gigantic east-facing corner that orders the right edge of the Challenger amphitheater, one of the most striking lines in Red Rocks. The climbing is varied and demanding, culminating in a dramatic 11a friction traverse to escape out of the top of the corner.
11c   510  jupiter 2        231    pine creek       5.9+/130, 11c/100, 10d/100, 5.8/90, 10d/80    N
The crux of this route is a beautiful 30' high corner at the top of the second pitch. The rest of the route offers varied and enjoyable 5.10 climbing.
11c   510  drifting         225    pine creek       11c/70, 11c/140, 11b/100, 11a/100, 11c/100    N
A good introduction to the area, this is a magnificent climb up the huge, open face on the right side of Jet Steam wall. Never desperate, but sustained.
11c   655  ixtlan            51    bvc              11c/70, 10a/60, 10d/60, 5.9/80, 5.8/80, 5.5/30, 5.9+/120, 10a/165    NE
A classic varied climb. Usually only the first three pitches get done, but the climb continues up the wide crack system for another five pitches.
11d   800  line of addiction  141    oak creek      5.9+/100, 10b/100, 11a/85, 10c/120, 5.8/50, 11d/100, 5.6/85, 5.9/100   N
Follows an elegant right-facing corner system on the crest of the buttress.
11d   800  cloud tower      182    juniper          5.8/120, 5.8/120, 10a/150, 11d/100, 10c/140, 10c/60, 11c/110   N
With everything from tips to offwidth, on superb splitter rock, this is one of Red Rock's finest crack climbs. The pitches tend to be long and sustained, and are very well-protected, except for the pitch 6 offwidth (which can be avoided?)
Routes >1000ft
10c  1500  inti watana      122    mt wilson        5.9+, 10c, 5.8, 5.9, 5.7, ?, 5.9, 5.9+, 5.9, 5.9, 5.9, 10c     90, 100, 110, 120, 95, 110, 125, 105, 50, 110, 60, 70   NE
Climbs the north face of a prominent tower on Resolution Arete.
10c  2500  resolution arete 122    mt wilson        5.9, 5.8, 5.9, 5.8, 5.8, 4th, 4th, 5.9+, 5.9, 5.9+ A1, 10d, 5.8, 5.8, 5.9+, 5.7, 4th, 5.9, 3rd, 5.8, 5.7, 4th, 4th, 4th, 4th   100, 150, 100, 150, 160, 250, 140, 100, 100, 80, 150, 150, 10, 160, 80, 150, 120, 120, 80, 600    E
Climbs the long, turreted arete which forms the left edge of the Aeolian wall. Despite a few scrappy sections, this is a classic alpine endeavor requiring good route-finding skills and efficient climbing.
10d  1500  gift wind gods   124    mt wilson        5.8, 10a, 5.8, 10d, 5.8, 5.9+, 10d, 5.9, 5.7, 4th    150, 130, 160, 150, 95, 85, 160, 100, 150, 50    NE
Climbs the left edge of the impressive, smooth wall on the right side of Aeolian Wall. A sustained, airy, and enjoyable route.
11a  1050  the warrior      130    cactus flower    5.9, 10b, 10d, 10b, 11a, 5.9R, 5.8     160, 100, 120, 170, 170, 180, 150    NE
Climbs the mighty corner system on the northeast arete of Cactus Flower Tower, one of the finest natural lines in the area. It goes up a series of unusually smooth corner/cracks which provide sustained and physical climbing. The nature of the climbing, along with the arduous approach, and long descent, makes for one of the more adventurous outings in Red Rocks.
11a  2000  lone star         66    bvc              10a, 5.8, 4th, 5.8, 5.7, 11a, 10a, 10a, 5.9, 10a, 11a, 10d, 5.5, 10a, 10a, 5.5, 10b, 10a, 5.6, 5.9, 5.7    90, 85, 140, 100, 60, 60, 140, 90, 60, 80, 90, 130, 200, 80, 70, 50, 80, 100, 60, 220, 70   NE
One of the longest climbs in Red Rocks. It starts on top of Texas Tower and follows a line through the wall and the overhangs above to reach the base of a prominent right-slanting ramp. The ramp is followed to a huge left-facing corner system. Above, more cracks lead up and right, finishing at the top of the exit ramp of Epinephrine. This route is a major undertaking, The traversing pitches above the huge overhangs 1000' up the wall make retreat from high on the route a tough proposition. The pitches beyond this point are not trivial.
11c  2000  dogma            121    mt wilson        5.4, 5.9, 4th, 11a, 5.8, 5.6, 3rd, 11c, 11a, 10c, 10c, 11a, 11a, 5.8, 5.8, 5.8     70, 200, 200, 140, 100, 200, 300, 110, 100, 100, 100, 100, 100, 100, 100, 100    E
This route takes a wandering line through the walls to the right of Willy's Couloir to reach Sherwood Forest. It then blasts straight up the left side o the Horseshoe Wall above, staying just left of an obvious water streak. Although the start and finish of this route are a little undistinguished, the middle third, up the huge vertical face above Sherwood Forest, is an incredible stretch of wall climbing, a bit like a steeper Black Velvet Wall. Most of the hard climbing is bolted.
11c  1090  texas hold 'em   66    bvc               5.8, 5.9, 5.7, 5.8, 10d, 10a, 11c, 11c, 10d    120, 150, 130, 160, 180, 90, 90, 100, 70    NE
A big route with a superb finish up the wall above Texas Tower. The route shares the first two pitches with Texts Tower Direct.
11c 1060 levitation 29 148 oak creek 10b, 11a, 5.8, 10b, 11c, 10d, 11a, 5.9, 5.9, 5.5 80, 80, 120, 140, 90, 60, 85, 90, 90, 60 S
Climbs straight up the wall through the tail of the Eagle. The beautiful direct line and continuous steepness more than make up for the occasional patches of sandy and flakey rock on this well-established classic.


From my "to-climb" list....

 Routes <500 feet (roughly in order of difficulty)
  • Johnny Vegas (5.7, 480'), Solar Slab, Oak Creek Canyon
  • The Black Pearl (5.9, 170'), Jackrabbit Buttress, Juniper Canyon
  • Risky Business (10c, 380'), Mescalito, Pine Creek Canyon
  • The Nightcrawler (again) (10c, 445'), Brownstone Wall, Juniper Canyon
  • The Schwa (10d, 190') and other climbs at Mud Springs Wing, Mud Springs Canyon
  • Red Zinger (10d, 180'), Oak Creek Canyon
  • The Next Century (10d, 200'), Mescalito, Pine Creek Canyon
  • Breakaway (10d, 240'), Refrigerator Wall, Icebox Canyon
  • Fear and Loathing (10d, 400'), Gemstone Gully, Pine Creek Canyon
  • Bighorn Buttress (11a, 390'), Lost Creek Canyon, Willow Springs
  • Enterprise (11a, 430'), Challenger Wall, Pine Creek Canyon
  • Seppuku (11a, 450'), The Blood Wall, Oak Creek Canyon
  • Slick Willy (11b, 270'), Mt. Wilson
  • Voyager (11b, 400'), Challenger Wall, Pine Creek Canyon
  • Free Willy (11c, 220'), Mt. Wilson
      Routes >500 ft and <1000 feet (roughly in order of difficulty)
  • Black Dagger (5.8, 680'), Brownstone Wall, Juniper Canyon
  • Jubilant Song (5.8, 770'), Windy Peak
  • Community Pillar (5.8+, 790'), Magic Mountain, Pine Creek Canyon
  • Rainbow Buttress (5.8+, 800'), Eagle Wall, Oak Creek Canyon
  • Honeycomb Chimney (5.9, 900'), Magic Mountain, Pine Creek Canyon
  • Hot Fudge Thursday (5.9, 930'), Windy Peak
  • Beulah's Book (5.9, 550') to Arch Enemy (5.9, 450'), Solar Slab, Oak Creek Canyon
  • Unimpeachable Groping (10b, 700'), Ginger Buttress, Juniper Canyon
  • Challenger (10d, 560'), Challenger Wall, Pine Creek Canyon
  • X15 (11a, 540'), Challenger Wall, Pine Creek Canyon
  • Jupiter 2 (11c, 510'), Challenger Wall, Pine Creek Canyon
  • Drifting (11c, 510'), Jet Stream Wall, Pine Creek Canyon
  • Line of Addiction (11d, 800'), Pirate Wall, Oak Creek Canyon
  • Cloud Tower (11d, 800'), Juniper Canyon
      Routes >1000 feet (roughly in order of difficulty)
  • Epinephrine (again) (5.9, 2240'), Black Velvet Wall, Black Velvet Canyon
  • Resolution Arete (10c C1, 2500'), Mt. Wilson
  • Gift of the Wind Gods (10d, 1500'), Aeolian Wall, Mt. Wilson
  • The Warrior (11a, 1050'), Cactus Flower Tower, Oak Creek Canyon
  • Lone Star (11a, 2000'), Black Velvet Wall, Black Velvet Canyon
  • Levitation 29 (11c, 1060'), Eagle Wall, Oak Creek Canyon
  • Texas Hold 'Em (11c, 1090'), Black Velvet Wall, Black Velvet Canyon
  • Dogma (11c, 2000'), Horseshoe Wall, Mt. Wilson
  • Rainbow Wall Original Route (5.12a, 1160'), Rainbow Wall, Juniper Canyon