<-- Map of summer 2015
     climbing roadtrip 
     (click to enlarge)

 
<-- Map of summer 2017
     climbing roadtrip 
     (click to enlarge)

(SHORT REPORTS)
2015,
2017

Cragging at TROUT CREEK

Category: Oregon

Rock Type: Basalt
Elev: ~2000 ft
Steep basalt columns at Trout Creek. Lots of cracks!

Trout Creek is Oregon's premier destination for pure crack climbs, featuring vertical cracks in corners and stemboxes on towering basalt columns. Most routes are in the 5.10-5.12 range and the climbing is physical, routes are long, and the rock is rough.

I've only climbed at Trout Creek a couple of times times, usually linked with a day or two at Smith Rock. This page gives "short reports" for my trips to Trout Creek. 



TRIPS (Chronological order):



 Trip #1: 1 Day of Cragging


Trip Report #: 209
Date: September 14, 2015
Partner: John Plotz
Brief Trip Report: John and I were headed to Yosemite, but bailed halfway there due to wildfires near in the Valley. We detoured to Smith Rock and Trout Creek for the weekend, climbing one day at Smith Rock followed by a day at Trout Creek. This was my first time climbing at Trout Creek. I was impressed with the quality of the climbing. As a crack climber, I like this place!
Routes we climbed:
  1. Gold Rush (5.10-)
  2. Two Step Left (5.10-)
  3. Two Step Right (5.9+)
  4. JR Token (5.10)
  5. Salad Daze (5.9)
  6. Where's Noah Vibbert (5.11-)

PHOTOS

Photos Photo descriptions
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1. Approaching the Main Wall from the right.
2. First view of the Main Wall. 
3. John leading Gold Rush. One of the best 5.10 cracks on the wall, so a good place to start!
4. View from top of Two Step Left. John belaying behind broken columns.
5. Looking up the splitter crack on JR Token. Another Trout Creek classic 5.10.
6. Salad Daze.
7. Where's Noah Vibbert.



 Trip #2: 2 Days of Cragging


Trip Report #: 271
Date: September 15-16, 2017
Partner: Todd Anderson
Brief Trip Report: Todd and I had planned on a trip to the Pasayten, but a large wildfire caused us to adjust our plans (it was a fire that caused me to come to Trout Creek the first time too). So we headed to Oregon, climbing at Trout Creek for two days and then Smith Rock for one day. Todd and I climbed several of the "best 5.10"s at Trout.
Routes we climbed:
     Sept 15:
  1. Gold Rush (5.10-) / Pan Handlin' (5.10)
  2. Alchemy (5.12-)
  3. JR Token (5.10)
  4. Wally's Warm-Up (aka U3) (5.9)
  5. Mr. Squiggles (5.10b/c)
  6. Suzuki (5.10+)
  7. The Gods Must Be Angry (5.10-)
  8.  Sept 16:
  9. Sleepy Hallow (5.10-)
  10. Girls with Chim(n)ay (5.10-)
  11. Diminishing Returns (5.10+)
  12. The Long March (5.10+)
  13. Wondertwins (5.10)
  14. The Space Between (5.10+)

PHOTOS

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1. Approaching the Main Wall from the left.
2.
 Gold Rush on left, Alchemy on right. We both led Gold Rush, then toproped the first 2/3 of Alchemy from the Gold Rush anchors, and continued the upper 1/3 of Alchemy on lead. (By the way, combining the start of Gold Rush with the finish of Alchemy is called Pan Handlin' on mountainproject, and makes for a nice extension to Gold Rush.)
3. Gold Rush.
4. Starting up Alchemy.
5. The upper 1/3 of Alchemy.
6. JR Token.
7. Climbing on the Main Wall.
8. Looking down at the toppled basalt columns at the base of the Main Wall.
9. Wally's Warm-Up (aka U3).
10. Wally's Warm-Up (aka U3).
11. Mr. Squiggles
12. Suzuki. The hexagonal form of the columns is clear in this photo.
13. The Gods Must Be Angry.
14. Hiking back to the campground after our first day of climbing. The Deschutes River flows below.
15. Sleepy Hallow.
16. Todd climbing Girls With Chim(n)ay. The stembox to the right is called Diminishing Returns, which we toproped after Girls With Chim(n)ay.
17. Just after exiting the chimney.
18. Diminishing Returns.
19. At the base of the Main Wall.
20. The Long March.
21. Wondertwins takes the pair of cracks about 1 foot apart.
22. Wondertwins.
23. Wondertwins.
24. The Space Between climbs the stembox.
25. Looking up the Space Between.
26. Todd toproping the Space Between.