My
"To
Climb"
List


Climbs I hope to do and climbing areas I hope to get to, from close to home to far and wide around the world. This list is by no means exhaustive and it is always growing.


Climbing Plans Looking for Partners!

I recently moved to Boulder, to start a PhD in Applied Math at CU Boulder in Fall 2019. I hope to get out as much as possible on weekends and evenings during the school year. Some of my main objectives at the moment (and always open to other ideas!):
  • Black Canyon Gunnison: The Odyssey, Southern Arete, Cloaked Interpretation, Crystal Vision, etc.
  • Eldo
  • Estes Park area
  • Vedauwoo
  • Indian Creek
  • South Platte
  • Colorado National Monument
Over the course of the summer as I have been climbing in Colorado, I have met some awesome climbing partners and had some awesome adventures. Even so, being new to the area, I am always looking for partners who are athletic, motivated, fun, and live for long days in the mountains moving efficiently over large amounts of technical terrain. Please shoot me an email (sabegg@gmail.com) if you are interested!


(States are listed in order of how close they are to my home in Boulder, Colorado.)


COLORADO
(Rocky Mtn NP, Black Canyon, ...)


I moved to Boulder in Summer 2019, and I definitely am psyched to explore more of what the state has to offer. I am sure this list will become quite large as I hear of more and more climbs I want to do in the state. Right now, I feel I have just scratched the surface of possibility.

Highest priority highlighted in red. 
Second highest highlighted in pink.

Rocky Mountain National Park:
  • Mt. Alice, Central Ramp (5.8, 7p), BLT Route (5.11, 6p)
  • Cathedral Wall, something....
  • Chasm View Wall, Babies R Us (5.12-, 5p), Sharp on Both End (5.11d, 6p)
  • Chief's Head, Birds of Fire (5.11a R, 1200'), Ten Little Indians (5.11a, 11p)
  • The Diamond, Hearts and Arrows (5.12, 9p)
  • Longs Peak, Lower East Face, Kor's Door (5.9, 6p)
  • Pagoda Mountain, South/Crescent Ridge (5.6)
  • Petit Grepon, SW Corner (5.9, 9p)  again (it was wet when I climbed it)
  • Spearhead, Spear Me the Details (5.11d, 8p) 
  • Ypsilon Mountain, Blitzen Ridge (5.4)
Lumpy Ridge:
  • The Book, Fat City Crack (5.10c, 3p)
  • The Book, Pear Buttress (5.8, 5p)
  • The Bookend, Orange Julius (5.10a R, 6p)
  • The Bookmark, Fantasy Ridge (5.9 PG13, 4p)
  • The Citadel, Heart of Norway (5.10c, 2p)
  • Crescent Wall, Finger Lickin' Good (5.11a, 2p)
  • Crescent Wall, Pressure Drop (5.11a, 1p)
  • Twin Owls, Crack of Fear (5.10d, 3p)
  • Sundance Buttress, Sidetrack (5.9, 6p)
Elsewhere in Estes Park Valley:
  • The Fin, Edge of Time (5.9, 85')
Black Canyon of the Gunnison (roughly in order of difficulty):
  • Lauren's Arete (5.8, 7p), The Aretes
  • Newberry's Delight (5.9, 4p), Newberry's Slabs area
  • Casually Off Route (5.9, 5+p), Main Gully area
  • Magical Mystery Tour (5.9, 6p), Guppy Amphitheater
  • Ground Control to Major Tom (5.9 (.7R), 10p), Chillumstone Gully, South Rim
  • Blackjack (5.9+, 8p), Chillumstone Gully, South Rim
  • Escape Artist (5.10-, 7p), Comic Relief Buttress
  • Musical Partners (5.10, 6p), North Chasm View Wall
  • Buzz Cut (5.10), Prisoner of Your Hairdo Gully
  • Cloak & Dagger (5.10+, 6p), Comic Relief Buttress
  • The Odyssey (5.10+, 10p), Guppy Gully
  • Ghost Dancer (5.10+, 7+p), The Aretes
  • Great White Wall (5.10+, 11p), Long Draw
  • The Cruise (5.10+, 10p), North Chasm View Wall
  • The Odyssey (5.10+, 10p), Guppy Buttress
  • Dark Star (5.10+, 13p), Cedar Point Gully, South RIm
  • Gimme the Loot (5.10+, 6p), Cedar Point Gully, South Rim
  • Southern Arete (5.10+, 18p), The Aretes
  • Cloaked Interpretation (5.11-, 6p), Comic Relief Buttress
  • Kachina Wings (5.11-, 6p), North Chasm View Wall
  • Crystal Vision (5.11-, 14p), South Chasm View Wall, South Rim
  • Last Payment (5.11, 4p), Alimony Wall, South Rim
  • Dark Matter (5.11 (.9R),12p), Long Draw
  • Black Snake (5.11, 8p), Dragon Point Gully, South Rim
  • Atlantis (5.11, 16p), Prisoner of Your Hairdo Gully
  • El Padre (5.11, 13p), South Chasm View Wall, South Rim
  • The Shadowlands (5.11, 7p), Cedar Point Gully, South Rim
  • Standup Comic (5.11+, 7p), Comic Relief Buttress
  • Astrodog (5.11+, 13p), South Chasm View Wall, South Rim
  • Dylan Wall (5.12-, 6+p), North Chasm View Wall
  • Tague Yer Time (5.12, 15p)South Chasm View Wall, South Rim
South Platte:
  • Turkey Rocks & Thunder Ridge (several routes...)
  • Cathedral Spires (several routes.....)
  • Big Rock Candy Mountain
  • The Castle (several routes...)
Flatirons:
  • Seal Rock, East Face Left (5.5 R)
  • The Fatiron, East Face (5.6 R)
  • The Maiden, East Face (5.6 R)
  • The Matron, East Face (5.5 R) or North Face (5.6)
Eldorado Canyon:
  • several routes...too many to even name at this point....
Boulder Canyon:
  • several routes...too many to even name at this point....
Mt. Evans:
  • The Black Wall, Cannonball Corner (5.10+, 500')
  • The Black Wall, Cary Granite (5.11c, 500')
Indian Peaks:
  • Kasparov Traverse (5.9)
Colorado National Monument:
  • Kissing Couple (Long Dong Wall)
  • several other routes...
The Crestones:
  • Kit Carson Mountain, The Prow (5.8 R)
Pine River:
  • The Pope's Nose, Central Buttress (5.10 A0+, 1200') 



WYOMING
(Wind Rivers, Tetons, Vedauwoo,  ...)


I've made a few trips into the Cirque of the Towers, Deep Lake, and Tetons, but still have some climbs I'd like to do in these areas.

Highest priority highlighted in red. 
Second highest highlighted in pink.

Cirque of the Towers:
  • Mitchell, North Face Center (5.9, 1000')
  • Warbonnet, Feather Buttress (5.10+ R, 1000')
  • Wolf's Head, South Face Right (5.10a, 4p), White Buffalo (5.12, 5p)
Deep Lake:
  • Haystack, Major Dihedral (5.9 C1 R, 1500')
  • Lost Temple Spire, Separation Anxiety (5.11a, 9p), North Prow (5.11a, 9p), Southwest Arête (5.10b, 7p)
Wind Rivers:
  • Ambush Peak (Arsenault-Bouchard)
  • Monolith (Discovery)
  • Gannett Peak
Tetons:
  • Cathedral Buttress (The Snaz)
  • Mt. Moran (South Buttress Right)
Vedauwoo:
  • I've only climbed there once, so several routes to do!



UTAH
(Moab, Indian Creek, Zion, ...)

 

With my academic schedule (i.e. summers and winter break off, teaching rest of the year), I've only been able to squeeze in a couple of late-summer climbing trips to climb desert towers in Moab or a few cragging routes in Zion, but I've never climbed anything big in Zion and I have only climbed one weekend at Indian Creek.

Highest priority highlighted in red. 
Second highest highlighted in pink.

Moab desert towers:
  • Ancient Art, Stolen Chimney (5.10 A0, 4p)
  • Dark Angel, West Face (5.11, 2p)
  • Lighthouse Tower, Lonely Vigil (5.10, 5p), Poseidon Adventure (5.10 R, 4p)
  • Moses, Primrose Dihedrals (5.11+, 7p)
  • Owl Rock, West Crack (5.8, 1p)
  • Priest, Honeymoon Chimney (5.11a, 4p)
  • Sister Superior, Jah Man (5.10c, 5p)
  • Three Gossips, West Face (5.11, 3p)
  • Washer Woman, In Search of Suds (5.10+, 6p)
Indian Creek:
  • North Six Shooter, Lightning Bolt Cracks (5.11-, 3-4p)
  • Plus literally 100's of other routes.....I've only been here for a weekend, and I have to come back....once I move to Boulder I plan to make Indian Creek a regular fall and spring weekend venue!
Zion:
  • Moonlight Buttress, Clean Aid (5.8 C1, 1200')
  • The Spearhead, Iron Messiah (5.10b, 1000')



NEW MEXICO

I've never climbed in New Mexico, but there's got to be some good rock climbing there and I'd like to check it out!

  • Questa Dome, Question of Balance (5.11- PG13, 600')
  • Any other great climbs in this state that I am not aware of...



SOUTH DAKOTA

I've never climbed in South Dakota either, but there's got to be some good rock climbing there and I'd like to check it out!

  • Custer State Park: Needle's Eye, Threading the Needle (5.8+, 1p)
  • The Needles of Rushmore
  • Black Hills
  • Any other great climbs in this state that I am not aware of...



MONTANA
(Blodgett, Gallatin, ...)

 

I've only made one climbing trip to Montana (where I climbed a bunch of classics over the course of two weeks), but I just loved the Montana vibe and will be back to check out more climbing here.

Blodgett Canyon:
  • The Prow, Timebinder (5.11, 900')
  • Nez Perce Spire, SW Buttress (5.10c R, 800')



IDAHO
(Elephant's Perch, Sawtooths, City of Rocks, ...)

 

I've only climbed a couple of times in Idaho, at City of Rocks and Elephant's Perch, and I'd go back to either location to climb some more.

Sawtooths:
  • Elephant's Perch, Splitburger-March direct (5.1b, 7p); Direct Beckey (5.11b, 12p) (again)
  • EP Arete (next to Elephant's Perch) 
  • I've only climbed Elephant's Perch so far, but Finger of Fate and Warbonnet look fun
City of Rocks:
  • numerous routes I haven't done yet



NEVADA
(Red Rocks, ...)


I just love Red Rocks. I've been there several times, but every time I leave with a few more climbs added to my list. There's a lifetime worth of climbing there.

Highest priority highlighted in red. 
Second highest highlighted in pink.

Red Rocks:

      Routes <500 feet (roughly in order of difficulty)
  • Black Magic (5.8, 500'), Lotta Balls Wall, First Creek Canyon
  • Lotta Balls (5.8+, 480'), Lotta Balls Wall, First Creek Canyon
  • The Black Pearl (5.9, 170'), Jackrabbit Buttress, Juniper Canyon
  • Risky Business (10c, 380'), Mescalito, Pine Creek Canyon
  • The Nightcrawler (again) (10c, 445'), Brownstone Wall, Juniper Canyon
  • Red Zinger (10d, 180'), Oak Creek Canyon
  • The Next Century (10d, 200'), Mescalito, Pine Creek Canyon
  • Breakaway (10d, 240'), Refrigerator Wall, Icebox Canyon
  • Fear and Loathing (10d, 400'), Gemstone Gully, Pine Creek Canyon
  • Bighorn Buttress (11a, 390'), Lost Creek Canyon, Willow Springs
  • Seppuku (11a, 450'), The Blood Wall, Oak Creek Canyon
  • Slick Willy (11b, 270'), Mt. Wilson
  • Voyager (11b, 400'), Challenger Wall, Pine Creek Canyon
  • Free Willy (11c, 220'), Mt. Wilson
      Routes >500 ft and <1000 feet (roughly in order of difficulty)
  • Black Dagger (5.8, 680'), Brownstone Wall, Juniper Canyon
  • Jubilant Song (5.8, 770'), Windy Peak
  • Community Pillar (5.8+, 790'), Magic Mountain, Pine Creek Canyon
  • Rainbow Buttress (5.8+, 800'), Eagle Wall, Oak Creek Canyon
  • Hot Fudge Thursday (5.9, 930'), Windy Peak
  • Johnny Vegas (5.7, 480') + Arch Enemy (5.9, 450'), Solar Slab, Oak Creek Canyon
  • Unimpeachable Groping (10b, 700'), Ginger Buttress, Juniper Canyon
  • X15 (11a, 540'), Challenger Wall, Pine Creek Canyon
  • Jupiter 2 (11c, 510'), Challenger Wall, Pine Creek Canyon
  • Drifting (11c, 510'), Jet Stream Wall, Pine Creek Canyon
  • Line of Addiction (11d, 800'), Pirate Wall, Oak Creek Canyon
  • Cloud Tower (11d, 800'), Juniper Canyon
      Routes >1000 feet (roughly in order of difficulty)
  • Resolution Arete (10c C1, 2500'), Mt. Wilson
  • Gift of the Wind Gods (10d, 1500'), Aeolian Wall, Mt. Wilson
  • The Warrior (11a, 1050'), Cactus Flower Tower, Oak Creek Canyon
  • Lone Star (11a, 2000'), Black Velvet Wall, Black Velvet Canyon
  • Levitation 29 (11c, 1060'), Eagle Wall, Oak Creek Canyon
  • Texas Hold 'Em (11c, 1090'), Black Velvet Wall, Black Velvet Canyon
  • Dogma (11c, 2000'), Horseshoe Wall, Mt. Wilson
  • Rainbow Wall Original Route (5.12a, 1160'), Rainbow Wall, Juniper Canyon



ARIZONA
(Cochise, Sedona, ...)


The extent of my Arizona climbing is just a few days in Cochise Stronghold and a few days at Sedona, and I saw and climbed enough to know I need to come back!

Cochise Stronghold:
  • only climbed there for a couple of days, so so many climbs left to do!
Sedona (roughly in order of difficulty):
  • Nirvana (5.9, 3p), Nirvana Buttress, Boynton Canyon
  • Maiden Voyage (5.9, 4p), Earthship Dome
  • North Face / West Crack (5.9+, 3p), Oak Creek Spire
  • Goliath (5.9+, 4p), Mormon Canyon
  • Epitaph (5.10-, 3p), Flying Buttress, Moose's Butte
  • 2 Legit 2 Quit (5.10-, 5p), Fay Buttress, Fay Canyon
  • Earth Angel (5.10-, 6p), Mormon Canyon
  • Windows Route (5.10, 3p), Super Crack Tower
  • Airborne Sage (5.10, 4p), Crown Butte, Mt. GIbralter
  • Touched By an Angel (5.10, 5p), Earth Angel Spire, Mormon Canyon
  • Blast from the Past (Issac's Route) (5.10, 5p), Christianity Spire, Church Spires
  • Skyline (5.10d, 4p), Moose's Butte
  • Watch Out Grandpa (5.10+, 3p), Enchantment Wall, Boynton Canyon
  • The Pirate (5.10+, 3p), Middle Mesa, Cathedral Rock
  • Legends Never Die (5.10+, 5p), Lost Mountain, Boynton Canyon
  • Trundler's Club (5.11-, 5p), Trundler's Buttress, East Twin Butte
  • Wild Wild West (5.11-, 5p), Teapot, Moose's Butte
  • Oski (5.11b/c, 4p), Bear Mountain, Dry Creek Road
  • Crimp on Crimp Crime (5.11, 5p), Mt. Florida, Midgley Bridge
  • various routes on Winslow Wall, East Clear Creek



CALIFORNIA
(Sierra, Yosemite, Needles, Tahquitz, Joshua Tree, ...)

 

California has some awesome granite and I've climbed a fair bit in the High Sierra and Yosemite, but still have a lot of great routes on my list. And some routes have been so good I'd happily repeat them.

Highest priority highlighted in red. 
Second highest highlighted in pink.

Yosemite:
  • El Capitan, Freeblast (5.11, 950'), West Face (5.11c, 1800'), The Nose (5.9 C2, 3000') (again! and again!)
  • The Folly, The Good Book (5.10d, 5p)
  • Half Dome, Regular NW Face (5.9 C1, 2200') (again!), Snake Dike (5.7 R, 2000')
  • Lost Arrow Spire, Lost Arrow Chimney (5.10a, 1100')
  • Middle Cathedral, Direct North Buttress (5.10b, 1700')
  • North Dome, South Face (5.8, 900')
  • Shultz's Ridge, Moratorium (5.11b, 4p)
  • The Rostrum, The North Face (5.11c, 700')
  • The Sentinel, Steck-Salathe (5.10-, 15p) (again)
  • lots of others...
Sierra:
  • Aiguelle Extra Needle, East Face (5.10-, 1300') 
  • Mt. Chamberlin, Sword in the Stone (5.11-, 2000') 
  • The Citadel, Edge of Time Arete (5.10+, 2000') 
  • Dragtooth, North Buttress (5.10, 700') 
  • Incredible Hulk, Sunspot Dihedral (5.11b, 1200'), Positive Vibrations (5.11a, 1200') (again)
  • Shuteye Ridge area (looks like my kind of place) 
  • Temple Crag, Sun Ribbon Arête (5.10a, 2000'), Moon Goddess Arête (5.8, 2000'), Venusian Blind (5.7, 1500')
  • Whitney Portal area: Whitney Portal Buttress Ghostrider (5.10c, 800'), El Segundo Beckey Route (5.9, 750'), Bastille Buttress Beckey Route (5.10d A0, 2000'), ...(only climbed there 1.5 days, got to climb more!)
  • Mt. Whitney, Hairline (5.10d C2+, 2000')
Southern CA:
  • Joshua Tree (only been there twice, and so many more routes to do) 
  • The Needles: The Sorcerer Don Juan Wall (5.11b, 5p), Voodoo Dome White Punks on Dope (5.9- PG13, 6p), ...(only been there twice, gotta go back for more!) 
  • Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks (never been there, gotta check it out) 



OREGON
(Cascades, Smith Rock, Trout Creek...)

 

There's not a huge lot of rock climbing in Oregon outside of Smith Rock and Trout Creek (both areas I'd go to if I were passing by but not make a special trip for), but someday I need to get to the top of Mt. Hood. 

  • Mt. Hood (North Face ideally, but any route to the top would do)



WASHINGTON 
(North Cascades, Pasayten, Olympics, Rainier, ...)

 

Washington was my home state from 2008-2019, so I've climbed a lot there, but still have several objectives remaining on my list....

Highest priority highlighted in red. 
Second highest highlighted in pink.

Single summits/climbs:
  • Amphitheater Mtn, Pilgrimage to Mecca (5.9, 500'), Middle Finger Buttress (5.10b, 500')
  • Bear Mtn, Direct North Buttress Direct (5.10, 2200')
  • Big Kangaroo, El Capitan (5.10+, 400')
  • Chopping Block, NE Ridge (5.5, 5p)
  • Colchuck Balanced Rock, Let it Burn (5.12a, 800')
  • Cutthroat Peak, South Buttress (5.8, 850')
  • Dome Peak, Indian Summer (5.10-, 1000')
  • Dorado Needle, SW Buttress (5.8, 900')
  • Dragontail Peak, Triple Couloirs (WI3 M3, 2500'), Backbone Ridge (5.9, 2000')
  • Early Morning Spire, SW Face (5.9, 1400')
  • Gunsights, Gunrunner Traverse (5.10-, 1300 ft), East Face of Middle Gunsight (5.10d, 500')
  • Himmelgeisterhorn, Wild Hair Crack (5.7, 4p)
  • Hozomeen, any route
  • Illusion Wall, Excalibur (5.10+, 1200')
  • Ingalls Peak, South Ridge (5.4, 300')
  • Liberty Bell, Thin Red Line (5.12c, 1300')
  • Nooksack Tower, Beckey-Schmidtke Route (5.4, 1000')
  • Prusik Peak, Der Sportsman (5.12a, 700')
  • Sharkfin Tower, SE Ridge (5.0, 200') or SE Face (5.10-, 150')
  • Sherpa Peak, North Ridge (5.8, 1400') & Balanced Rock (?)
  • Whine Spire, Gato Negro (5.10b, 1300')
Trips with multiple days/summits:
  • Austera-Klawatti-Primus-Tricouni-Dorado Needle
  • Arriva-Fisher-Silent Lakes
  • Bacon-Hagen-Blum
  • Buckindy Traverse
  • Chimney-Overcoat
  • Index-Baring Traverse
  • Maude-Seven Fingered Jack-Fernow
  • Ragged Ridge Traverse (Mesahchie-Katsuk-Kimtah)
  • Ruth-Icy
  • Pasayten trip (MMG Traverse, The Deacon, Pilgrimage to Mecca & Middle Finger Buttress on Amphitheater Mtn)
  • Pickets Traverse (again)



CANADA (mostly BC)
(Chehalis, Pasayten, Squamish, Canadian Rockies, Bugaboos, Valhallas, ...)

 

I've done several climbing trips into southern British Columbia and been to the Bugaboos a few times, but there is just so much terrain and so many things left to climb!

Highest priority highlighted in red. 
Second highest highlighted in pink.

Squamish (this list is sort of short at the moment because I have done a lot of the routes that were once on it!):
  • High Plains Drifter (5.11c, 250')
  • Life on Earth (Mt. Habrich) (5.10c, 5p)
  • Star Chek
  • lots of others...
Chehalis Range:
  • Bardean, Tuning Fork (5.9, 15p)
  • Viennese, Derektissima (5.10a, 18p)
  • other stuff I want to check out on Clarke and Grainger...
Pasayten/Cathedral Provincial Park:
  • The Deacon, Sentinel Direct (5.9, 1000')
  • Grimface, Notch Direct (5.10+, 700') or North Buttress (5.9, 800') or MMG Traverse (5.7 A0, 350')
Bugaboos:
  • Crescent Spire, McTech Arete (5.10-, 500'), Paddle Flake Direct (5.10, 500')
  • Pigeon Spire, Cooper-Kor (5.10+ R, 1000')
  • lots of others...
Canadian Rockies:
  • Assiniboine, North Ridge (5.4, 2000')
  • Mt. Indefatigable, Joy (5.6, 2000')
  • Mt. Louis, Gmoser Route (5.9, 15p)
  • Rimwall, Candle in the Wind (5.10c, 1500')
  • Robson, Wishbone Arête (5.8, 1500')
  • Valley of the Ten Peaks traverse
  • Yamnuska, Direttissima (5.8+ PG13, 1100')
Coast Range:
  • Combatant, Skywalk Buttress (5.9, 2000')
  • Waddington, Bravo Glacier
Other areas:
  • Lotus Flower Tower, SE Face (5.10+, 2000')
  • Leaning Towers area
  • Devil's Thumb, East Ridge (5.8+, 3000')
  • Grizzly Groove (5.7, 1000'), Purcell Mtns



ALASKA

I've never climbed in Alaska, but hopefully someday I'll get the opportunity.

  • Brooks Range, Arrigetch Peaks (Pillar Arete, West Maiden Peak NB, Shot Tower W Ridge)
  • Denali (because it's there)
  • Foraker and Hunter (they look cool too)



INTERNATIONAL
(Dolomites, Alps, Himalaya, Patagonia, ...)

 

Besides for a couple of hikes in the Swiss Alps and a few days in the Italian Dolomites, I've not really climbed at all outside of North America. But there are so many cool areas I'd like to check out, when/if I have more money...

Europe:
  • Matterhorn, Switzerland (Horni Ridge; failed attempt due to weather in 2005 when I was 22 years old, got to get to the summit still)
  • Eiger, Switzerland (just because)
  • Chamonix area, France
  • Aiguille Dibona, France
  • Dolomites, Italy (I've been there once but 3 climbs was just a tease, so much more to climb!)
South America:
  • Patagonia
  • Aconcagua, Argentina
  • Alpamayo, Peruvian Andes
South Asia:
  • Himalayas
New Zealand:
  • Mt. Aspiring
Mexico:
  • El Potrero Chico 
Cuba:
  • Valle de Vinales (looks awesome)

And many, many, many, many other routes I've not even heard of yet...





Also on my "to-climb" list are any climbs from Fifty Classic Climbs of North America (by Steck and Roper) and Fred Beckey's 100 Favorite North American Climbs (by none other than Fred Beckey). These two lists are provided below for reference. I have climbed a handful of these great routes, and have linked respective trip reports (if I have climbed via a different route, the link is given for the main formation rather than the route). Lots of great routes in my climbing future!


Fifty Classic Climbs of North America

(This list was originally published in 1979 in Fifty Classic Climbs of North America by Steve Roper & Alan Steck. It has become sort of a life-tick-list for several climbers.)


Poster I made showing color-coded locations of the Fifty Classic Climbs.



Alaska and the Yukon

1 Mount Saint Elias, Abruzzi Ridge
2 Mount Fairweather, Carpe Ridge
3 Mount Hunter, West Ridge
4 Mount McKinley, Cassin Ridge
5 Moose’s Tooth, West Ridge
6 Mount Huntington, West Face
7 Mount Logan, Hummingbird Ridge
8 Middle Triple Peak, East Buttress

Western Canada

9 Mount Sir Donald, Northwest Arete
10 Bugaboo Spire, East Ridge
11 South Howser Tower, West Buttress
12 Mount Robson, Wishbone Arete
13 Mount Edith Cavell, North Face
14 Mount Alberta, Japanese Route
15 Mount Temple, East Ridge
16 Mount Waddington, South Face
17 Devil’s Thumb, East Ridge
18 Lotus Flower Tower

The Pacific Northwest

19 Mount Rainier, Liberty Ridge
20 Forbidden Peak, West Ridge
21 Mount Shuksan, Price Glacier
22 Slesse Mountain, Northeast Buttress
23 Mount Stuart, North Ridge
24 Liberty Bell Mountain, Liberty Crack

Wyoming

25 Devil’s Tower, Durrance Route
26 Grand Teton, North Ridge
27 Grand Teton, Direct Exum Ridge
28 Grand Teton, North Face
29 Mount Moran, Direct South Buttress
30 Pingora, Northeast Face
31 Wolf’s Head, East Ridge

Colorado

32 Crestone Needle, Ellingwood Ledges
33 Hallett Peak, Northcutt-Carter Route
34 Petit Grepon, South Face
35 Longs Peak, The Diamond, D1

The Southwest

36 Shiprock
37 Castleton Tower, Kor-Ingalls Route
38 The Titan

California

39 The Royal Arches
40 Lost Arrow Spire
41 Sentinel Rock, Steck-Salathe Route
42 Middle Cathedral Rock, East Buttress
43 Half Dome, Northwest Face
44 El Capitan, The Nose 
45 El Capitan, Salathe Wall
46 Mount Whitney, East Face
47 Fairview Dome, North Face
48 Clyde Minaret, Southeast Face
49 Charlotte Dome, South Face
50 Lover’s Leap, Traveler Buttress

Note: Various sources give some variation in route grades and classes.

?
?
IV 5.8 AI3
V 5.8 AI4
V ice/cornices
VI 5.9 A2 WI3-4
?
VI 5.9 A3



III 5.2
III 5.7
V 5.8 A2 or 5.10
V 5.6
IV 5.7
IV 5.6
IV 5.6
V 5.7
IV 5.6
V 5.8 A2 or 5.10



IV
II 5.2
IV
V 5.9 A2
III 5.4
V 5.9 A3



II 5.6-5.7
IV 5.7
III 5.6
IV 5.8
IV 5.7 A3
IV 5.8
II 5.5



III 5.7
III 5.7
III 5.7
V 5.7 A4 or 5.12a



III 5.7 A2 or 5.9
III 5.9
IV 5.8 A3



III 5.6 A1 or 5.9
III 5.5 A3 or 5.10 A2
V 5.9 A3
IV 5.9 A1 or 5.10
VI 5.9 A3 or 5.11
VI 5.11 A3
VI 5.10 A3
III 5.4
III-IV 5.9
IV 5.8
III 5.7
II 5.9



Fred Beckey's
100 Favorite North American Climbs

by Fred Beckey & Barry Blanchard, first published (hardcover) in 2012 by Patagonia Inc.



Pacific Northwest

1 Mt. Rainier, Kautz Glacier
2 Mt. Rainier, Ptarmigan Ridge
3 Mt. Index, North Peak
4 Mt. Stuart, West Ridge
5 Snow Creek Wall, Outer Space
6 Forbidden Peak, East Ridge
7 Mt. Goode, Northeast Buttress
8 Inspiration Peak, East Ridge
9 Mt. Fury, North Buttress
10 Mt. Baker, North Ridge
11 Mt. Shuksan, Fisher Chimneys
12 Slesse Mountain, Northeast Buttress
13 South Early Winter Spire, East Buttress
14 Mt. Hood, Yocum Ridge
15 Smith Rock, Zebra to Zion
16 Mt. Shasta, Hotlum Glacier

Alaska

17 Mt. Deborah
18 Mt. McKinley, Northwest Buttress
19 Mooses Tooth, Ham and Eggs Couloir
20 Mt. Seattle

British Columbia Coast Montains

21 SquamishSquamish Buttress
22 Squamish, Angel's Crest
23 Squamish, Snake
24 Golden Klattasine, West Buttress
25 Mt. Waddington, Southeast Chimney
26 Mt. Monarch
27 Kates Needle

Canadian Rockies, Selkirks, & Bugaboos

28 Mt. Assiniboine
29 Mt. Louis, Kain Route
30 Eisenhower Tower, Dragon's Back Route
31 Mt. Lefroy
32 Mt. Victoria, Southeast Ridge
33 Mt. Athabasca, Silverhorn
34 Mt. Edith Cavell, North Face
35 Oubliette Mountain, East Buttress
36 Mt. Robson, Kain Face
37 Adamant Mountain, South Buttress
38 Ironman, Southwest Buttress
39 Mt. Sir Sandford, Northwest Ridge
40 Mt. Sir Donald, Northwest Ridge
41 Bugaboo Spire, South Ridge
42 Snowpatch Spire, Snowpatch Route
43 Snowpatch Spire, E Face, Beckey-Mather
44 South Howser, W Buttress, Beckey-Chouinard
45 Gimli Peak, South Ridge

High Rockies

46 Grand Teton, Lower Exum Ridge
47 Grand Teton, North Ridge
48 Mt. Owen, Crescent Arete
49 Mt. Moran, C.M.C. Route
50 Musembeah Peak, West Buttress
51 Fremont Peak, West Buttress
52 Pingora Peak, South Buttress
53 Warrior I, Northeast Face
54 Shark's Nose, Southwest Face
55 Cathedral Lakes Peak, Orion's Reflection
56 Elephant's Perch, The Beckey Direct
57 Little Cottonwood Canyon, The Thumb
58 Lone Peak, West Face, Triple Overhangs
59 The Flatirons, Third Flatiron
60 Eldorado Canyon, Ruper
61 Lumpy RidgeJ-Crack
62 Lumpy Ridge, Mainliner
63 Hallett Peak, Culp-Bossier Route
64 Spearhead, Sykes' Sickle
65 Longs Peak, The Diamond, D7
66 Crestone Needle, Ellingwood Arete

Sierra Nevada


67 Lone Pine Peak, South Face
68 Lone Pine Peak, Bastille Buttress
69 Whitney Portal Buttress
70 Day Needle (aka Hilda Crooks Peak), E Buttress
71 Mt. Whitney, E Buttress (aka The Peewee Route)
72 Mt. Russell, Fishhook Arete
73 Thunderbolt Peak
74 Cathedral Peak, Southeast Buttress
75 Daff Dome, West Crack
76 Fairview Dome, Lucky Streaks
77 Calaveras Dome, Sands of Time
78 Half Dome, Snake Dike
79 Washington Column, South Face
80 Charlotte Dome, South Face
81 Angel Wings, Wings Over Sequoia
82 Warlock Needle, South Face
83 Voodoo Dome, White Punks on Dope

Southwest Desert

84 Castleton Tower, North Chimney
85 Kingfisher Tower, Colorado Northeast Ridge
86 Zion Canyon, Touchstone Wall
87 Zion Canyon, Prodigal Sun
88 Granite Mountain, The Classic
89 Cochise Stronghold, What's My Line?
90 Cochise Stronghold, Moby Dick
91 Red Rocks, Frogland
92 Red Rocks, Dream of Wild Turkeys
93 Red Rocks, Crimson Chrysalis
94 Red Rocks, Black Orpheus
95 Tahquitz Rock, Whodunit
96 Tahquitz Rock, The Open Book

Appalachian Mountains & Mexico

97 Looking Glass Rock, The Nose
98 Mt. Washington, Pinnacle Gully
99 El Gran Trono Blanco, South Face, Baile del Sol
100 Pico de Orizaba, Ruta Norte

Note: Various sources give some variation in route grades and classes.

II+

IV class 4-5
III  5.5
II-III 5.4-5.6
III 5.9
II-III 5.8
III+ 5.5
III 5.9
III-IV class 5 & steep snow
III+
II-III class 4
V 5.9+
IV 5.9+ A1 or 5.11-
IV
III 5.10a
II-III



V

IV class 4-5
IV 5.9 A1
III



IV 5.10c

IV 5.10c
III 5.9+
IV-V 5.9 A1
IV 5.7 possible rime
IV
III+



II+ 5.4

III+ 5.6-5.7
II-III 5.5
II-III
II+ class 4
III
IV+ 5.7
IV 5.7
IV
IV 5.7+
IV 5.10b or 5.7 A2
III class 4
III 5.4
II-III 5.6+
III-IV 5.8
VI 5.8 A2/A3
V 5.10-
IV 5.10a



III 5.8

IV 5.8
III 5.7
III 5.5
IV 5.8
IV 5.10
II 5.6-5.8
IV 5.9
III 5.8
V 5.10 and A2
IV-V 5.11a-b or 5.9 A2
III-IV 5.9+
III 5.10a or 5.9 A2
II 5.4
III 5.8+
II-III 5.10a
III 5.9
III 5.8
IV 5.9+
V 5.11d or 5.7 A2
III 5.7



V 5.7 A1

IV+ 5.11 A0 or 5.10 A1
IV 5.10b A2
IV 5.8 A2 or 5.9+
III 5.7
III-IV 5.9
II class 4
II 5.6
III 5.9
IV 5.10c
IV 5.9+
III 5.7
V 5.9 A1
III+ 5.8+
V 5.9 A3
III-IV 5.9+ or 5.10c
III 5.9



II-III 5.9
IV 5.8 A2
IV-V 5.8 A2 or 5.10 A1
IV-V 5.5-5.8 A2
II-III 5.8
II 5.7 A0 or 5.10c
III 5.8+
III 5.8
IV 5.10-
IV 5.9
IV 5.10
III 5.9
III 5.9



II 5.8
III WI3
IV 5.10c
II