My
"To
Climb"
List


Climbs I hope to do and climbing areas I hope to get to, from close to home in Washington to far and wide around the world.


The following list is by no means exhaustive. But I'm always looking for climbing partners, and if you see a route on this page you also want to climb, contact me and maybe we can climb it together!

WASHINGTON 
(North Cascades, Pasayten, ...)
I've climbed a lot in my home state of Washington, but by no means have climbed everything I want to climb....
Highest priority highlighted in red. Second highest highlighted in pink.
Single summits/climbs:
  • Amphitheater Mtn (Pilgrimage to Mecca, Middle Finger Buttress)
  • Bear Mtn (North Buttress Direct)
  • Big Kangaroo (El Capitan)
  • Chopping Block (NE Ridge)
  • Colchuck Balanced Rock (Let it Burn)
  • Crooked Thumb
  • Cutthroat Peak (South Buttress)
  • Dome Peak (Grand Torino, Indian Summer)
  • Dorado Needle (SW Buttress)
  • Dragontail Peak (Triple Couloirs, Backbone Arete)
  • Early Morning Spire (SW Face)
  • Exfoliation Dome (Blueberry Buttress)
  • Mt. Fury (NE Face)
  • Gunsights (Gunrunner Traverse, East Face of Middle Gunsight)
  • Himmelgeisterhorn (Wild Hair Crack)
  • Hozomeen (NW Buttress of SW Peak)
  • Illusion Wall (Excalibur)
  • Ingalls Peak (South Ridge)
  • Liberty Bell (Thin Red Line)
  • Nooksack Tower (Beckey-Schmidtke Route)
  • Phantom Peak
  • Prusik Peak (Der Sportsman)
  • South Early Winter Spire (Hitchhiker (again))
  • Sharkfin Tower (SE Ridge or S Face)
  • Sherpa Peak (North Ridge & Balanced Rock)
  • Mt. Stuart (NE Face)
  • Swiss Peak (NE Face, Central Pillar)
  • Whine Spire (Gato Negro)
  • Whitehorse Mtn (Whitehorse Glacier)
Trips with multiple days/summits:
  • Austera-Klawatti-Primus-Tricouni-Dorado Needle
  • Arriva-Fisher-Silent Lakes
  • Bacon-Hagen-Blum
  • Buckindy Traverse
  • Chimney-Overcoat
  • Index-Baring Traverse
  • Maude-Seven Fingered Jack-Fernow
  • Ragged Ridge Traverse (Mesahchie-Katsuk-Kimtah)
  • Ruth-Icy
  • Pasayten trip (MMG Traverse, The Deacon, Pilgrimage to Mecca & Middle Finger Buttress on Amphitheater Mtn)
  • Pickets Traverse (again)


CANADA
(Chehalis, Pasayten, Squamish, Canadian Rockies, Bugaboos, Valhallas, ...)
I've done several climbing trips into southern British Columbia and been to the Bugaboos a few times, but there is just so much terrain and so many things left to climb!
Highest priority highlighted in red. Second highest highlighted in pink.
British Columbia nearby:

Chehalis Range:
  • Viennese (Derektissima)
  • Bardean (Tuning Fork)
  • other stuff I want to check out on Clarke and Grainger...
Pasayten/Cathedral Provincial Park:
  • The Deacon (Sentinel Direct)
  • Grimface (North Direct or North Buttress or MMG Traverse)
Squamish & nearby:
  • Right Wing
  • High Plains Drifter
  • Parallel Passages
  • Life on Earth (Mt. Habrich)
  • Grand Wall to Black Dike
  • lots of others...
  • Mouse's Tooth (Mighty Mouse)
Further away from home:

Bugaboos:
  • Crescent Spire (McTech Arete, Paddle Flake Direct)
  • Pigeon Spire (Cooper-Kor)
  • lots of others...
Roger's Pass:
  • MacDonald -> Avalanche -> Uto -> Sir Donald -> Terminal traverse
Canadian Rockies:
  • Assiniboine
  • Mt. Louis (Gmoser Route)
  • Mt. Indefatigable (Joy)
  • Rimwall (Candle in the Wind)
  • Robson (Wishbone Arête)
  • Valley of the Ten Peaks traverse
  • Yamnuska (Direttissima)
Coast Range:
  • Combatant (Skywalk Buttress)
  • Waddington (Bravo Glacier)
Other areas:
  • Lotus Flower Tower (SE Face) 
  • Leaning Towers area
  • Mt. Logan
  • Devil's Thumb
  • Grizzly Groove, Purcell Mtns


CALIFORNIA
(Sierra, Yosemite, Needles, Tahquitz, Joshua Tree, ...)
California has some awesome granite and I've climbed a fair bit in the High Sierra and Yosemite, but still have a lot of great routes on my list. And some routes have been so good I'd happily repeat them.
Highest priority highlighted in red. Second highest highlighted in pink.

Yosemite:
  • El Capitan (Freeblast, West Face, The Nose (again! and again!))
  • Half Dome (Reg NW Face (again!), Snake Dike)
  • Lost Arrow Spire (Lost Arrow Chimney)
  • Middle Cathedral (NBD)
  • North Dome (SF)
  • Schultz's Ridge (Moratorium)
  • Three Brothers Area (The Good Book)
  • The Rostrum (NF)
  • Sentinel (Steck-Salathe (again!))
  • lots of others...
Sierra:
  • Aiguille Extra Needle (E Face) 
  • Bastille Buttress (Beckey Route) 
  • Mt. Chamberlain (Sword in the Stone) 
  • The Citadel (Edge of Time Arete) 
  • Dragtooth (N Buttress) 
  • Incredible Hulk (Sun Spot Dihedral, Positive Vibrations (again))  
  • Temple Crag (Sun Ribbon Arête, Moon Goddess Arête, Venusian Blind)
  • Whitney Portal area (only climbed there one day, got to climb more! some routes that look good: Ghostrider, Bony Fingers, El Segundo Beckey Route, Bastille Buttress Beckey Route,...)
  • Mt. Whitney (Hairline) 
Southern CA:
  • Joshua Tree (only been there twice, and so many more routes to do) 
  • The Needles (only been there twice, gotta go back, climb Don Juan Wall for example,...) 
  • Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks (never been there, gotta check it out) 


WYOMING
(Wind Rivers, Tetons, ...)
I've made a few trips into the Cirque of the Towers, Deep Lake, and Tetons, but still have some climbs I'd like to do in these areas.
Highest priority highlighted in red. Second highest highlighted in pink.

Cirque of the Towers:
  • Warbonnet (Feather Buttress)
  • Mitchell (North Face Center)
  • Cirque Traverse (Pingora to Warbonnet)
Deep Lake:
  • Haystack (Major Dihedral)
  • Lost Temple Spire (Separation Anxiety, North Prow, Southwest Arête)
Wind Rivers:
  • Gannett Peak
Tetons:
  • Grand Traverse
  • Mt. Moran (Direct South Buttress)


COLORADO
(Rocky Mtn NP, Black Canyon, ...)
I've only climbed a few times in Colorado, just when passing by on the way to somewhere else, and I defintely want to explore more of what the state has to offer.
Highest priority highlighted in red. Second highest highlighted in pink.

Rocky Mountain National Park:
  • Arrowhead (Arrowplane, Airhead, Sidewinder, Glacier Gorge Traverse)
  • Chasm View Wall (Directissima, Red Wall)
  • Chief's Head (Birds of Fire, Cowboys and Indians)
  • The Diamond (I've climbed Ariana and Yellow Wall, but would like to climb the Casual Route, Pervertical Sanctuary, and D7)
  • Hallett Peak (Culp-Bossier, Hesse-Ferguson, Jackin' the Johnson, Second Buttress Tour)
  • Petit Grepon (SW Corner)
  • Rock of Ages (Days of Heaven)
  • The Saber (SW Corner)
  • Spearhead (The Barb)
  • Zowie (Magic in the Middle)

Lumpy Ridge:
  • Crack of Fear
  • Dark Star
  • Fantasy Ridge
  • Fat City Crack
  • Finger Lickin' Good
  • Heart of Norway
  • J-Crack
  • Mainliner
  • Orange Julius
  • Pear Buttress
  • Pressure Drop
  • Thindependence + J-Crack + Cheap Date + Outlander
  • Turnkorner
  • lots of others....
Elsewhere in Estes Park Valley:
  • Edge of Time
Black Canyon of the Gunnison:
  • Scenic Cruise
  • Russian Arete
  • Checkerboard Wall
  • Escape Artist
  • Journey Home
  • Leisure Summer
Elsewhere in the state:
  • The Pope's Nose
  • Mt.Evans (The Black Wall: Cary Granite, Cannonball Corner, Road Warrior)


NEVADA
(Red Rocks, ...)
I just love Red Rocks. I've been there several times, but every time I leave with a few more climbs added to my list. There's a lifetime worth of climbing there.
Highest priority highlighted in red. Second highest highlighted in pink.

Red Rocks:
  • Beulah's Book to Arch Enemy
  • Black Dagger
  • Cat Scratch Fever
  • Challenger
  • Cloud Tower
  • Community Pillar
  • Epinephrine (again)
  • Honeycomb Chimney
  • Hot Fudge Thursday
  • Jubulant Song
  • Levitation 29
  • Luna
  • Minnows on Mesacaline
  • Moondog
  • Nightcrawler (again)
  • Rainbow Buttress
  • Rainbow Wall Original Route
  • Resolution Arete
  • Sweet Thin
  • The Black Pearl
  • The Schwa
  • The Warrior
  • lots of others


UTAH
(Moab, Indian Creek, Zion, ...)
With my teaching schedule (i.e. summers and winter break off, teaching rest of the year), I've only been able to squeeze in a couple of late-summer climbing trips to climb desert towers in Moab or a few cragging routes in Zion, but I've never climbed anything big in Zion and I have never climbed at Indian Creek at all. Someday I hope to! Maybe during a particularly cool spell in September or warm spell in December. 
Highest priority highlighted in red. Second highest highlighted in pink.

Moab desert towers:
  • Ancient Art (Stolen Chimney)
  • Dark Angel (West Face)
  • Lighthouse Tower (Lonely Vigil, Poseidon Adventure)
  • Moses (Primrose Dihedrals)
  • Owl Rock (West Crack)
  • Priest (Honeymoon Chimney)
  • Sister Superior (Yah Man)
  • Three Gossips (West Face)
  • Washer Woman (In Search of Suds)
Indian Creek:
  • I've GOT to go here someday, sounds like crack-climbing paradise
Zion:
  • Moonlight Buttress (Clean Aid)
  • The Spearhead (Iron Messiah)


IDAHO
(Elephant's Perch, Sawtooths, City of Rocks, ...)
I've only climbed a couple of times in Idaho, at City of Rocks and Elephant's Perch, and I'd go back to either location to climb some more.

Elephant's Perch:
  • only climbed there once, so still some routes to do
Sawtooths:
  • never climbed there, but Finger of Fate and Warbonnet look fun
City of Rocks:
  • various routes I haven't done yet


ARIZONA
(Cochise, Sedona, ...)
The grand extent of my Arizona climbing is just a few days in Cochise Stronghold, and I saw enough to know I need to come back!

Cochise Stronghold:
  • only climbed there for a couple of days, so so many climbs left to do!
Sedona:
  • I've heard the desert towers here are fun to climb


OREGON
(Cascades, Smith Rock, Trout Creek...)
There's not a huge lot of rock climbing in Oregon outside of Smith Rock and Trout Creek (both areas I'd go to if I were passing by but not make a special trip for), but someday I need to get to the top of Mt. Hood. 
  • Mt. Hood (North Face ideally, but any route to the top would do)


MONTANA
I've never climbed in Montana, but there's got to be some good rock climbing there and I'd like to check it out!
Highest priority highlighted in red. Second highest highlighted in pink.
  • Blodgett Canyon (Flathead Buttress My Mom's Muscle Shirt aka South Face Route; Shoshone South Face; Nez Perce SW Buttress; The Prow Timebinder)
  • Lost Horse Canyon (various routes)
  • Cowen Cirque (Montana Centennial Route)
  • Any other great climbs in this state that I am not aware of....


NEW MEXICO
I've never climbed in New Mexico either, but there's got to be some good rock climbing there and I'd like to check it out!
  • Questa Dome (Question of Balance)
  • Any other great climbs in this state that I am not aware of...


SOUTH DAKOTA
I've never climbed in South Dakota, but there's got to be some good rock climbing there and I'd like to check it out!
  • Custer State Park: Needle's Eye (Threading the Needle looks pretty unique)


ALASKA
I've never climbed in Alaska, but hopefully someday I'll get the opportunity.
  • Brooks Range, Arrigetch Peaks (Pillar Arete, West Maiden Peak NB, Shot Tower W Ridge)
  • Denali (someday perhaps)
  • Foraker and Hunter (they look cool too)


INTERNATIONAL
(Dolomites, Alps, Himalaya, Patagonia, ...)
Besides for a couple of hikes in the Swiss Alps and a few days in the Italian Dolomites, I've not really climbed at all outside of North America. But there are so many cool areas I'd like to check out, when/if I have more money...

Europe:
  • Matterhorn, Switzerland (failed attempt due to weather in 2005 when I was 22 years old, got to get to the summit this time)
  • Eiger, Switz (just because)
  • Chamonix area, France
  • Aiguille Dibona, France
  • Dolomites, Italy (I've been there once but 3 climbs was just a tease, so much more to climb!)
South America:
  • Patagonia
  • Aconcagua, Argentina
  • Alpamayo, Peruvian Andes
South Asia:
  • Himalayas
New Zealand:
  • Mt. Aspiring

And many, many others I've not even heard of yet...




Also on my "to-climb" list are any climbs from Fifty Classic Climbs of North America (by Steck and Roper) and Fred Beckey's 100 Favorite North American Climbs (by none other than Fred Beckey). These two lists are provided below for reference. I have climbed a handful of these great routes, and have linked respective trip reports (if I have climbed via a different route, the link is given for the main formation rather than the route). Lots of great routes in my climbing future!


Fifty Classic Climbs of North America

by Steve Roper & Alan Steck, first published (hardcover) in 1979 by Sierra Club Books.


Poster I made showing color-coded locations of the Fifty Classic Climbs.



Alaska and the Yukon

1 Mount Saint Elias, Abruzzi Ridge
2 Mount Fairweather, Carpe Ridge
3 Mount Hunter, West Ridge
4 Mount McKinley, Cassin Ridge
5 Moose’s Tooth, West Ridge
6 Mount Huntington, West Face
7 Mount Logan, Hummingbird Ridge
8 Middle Triple Peak, East Buttress

Western Canada

9 Mount Sir Donald, Northwest Arete
10 Bugaboo Spire, East Ridge
11 South Howser Tower, West Buttress
12 Mount Robson, Wishbone Arete
13 Mount Edith Cavell, North Face
14 Mount Alberta, Japanese Route
15 Mount Temple, East Ridge
16 Mount Waddington, South Face
17 Devil’s Thumb, East Ridge
18 Lotus Flower Tower

The Pacific Northwest

19 Mount Rainier, Liberty Ridge
20 Forbidden Peak, West Ridge
21 Mount Shuksan, Price Glacier
22 Slesse Mountain, Northeast Buttress
23 Mount Stuart, North Ridge
24 Liberty Bell Mountain, Liberty Crack

Wyoming

25 Devil’s Tower, Durrance Route
26 Grand Teton, North Ridge
27 Grand Teton, Direct Exum Ridge
28 Grand Teton, North Face
29 Mount Moran, Direct South Buttress
30 Pingora, Northeast Face
31 Wolf’s Head, East Ridge

Colorado

32 Crestone Needle, Ellingwood Ledges
33 Hallett Peak, Northcutt-Carter Route
34 Petit Grepon, South Face
35 Longs Peak, The Diamond

The Southwest

36 Shiprock
37 Castleton Tower, Kor-Ingalls Route
38 The Titan

California

39 The Royal Arches
40 Lost Arrow Spire
41 Sentinel Rock, Steck-Salathe Route
42 Middle Cathedral Rock, East Buttress
43 Half Dome, Northwest Face
44 El Capitan, The Nose 
45 El Capitan, Salathe Wall
46 Mount Whitney, East Face
47 Fairview Dome, North Face
48 Clyde Minaret, Southeast Face
49 Charlotte Dome, South Face
50 Lover’s Leap, Traveler Buttress

Note: Various sources give some variation in route grades and classes.

?
?
IV 5.8 AI3
V 5.8 AI4
V ice/cornices
VI 5.9 A2 WI3-4
?
VI 5.9 A3



III 5.2
III 5.7
V 5.8 A2 or 5.10
V 5.6
IV 5.7
IV 5.6
IV 5.6
V 5.7
IV 5.6
V 5.8 A2 or 5.10



IV
II 5.2
IV
V 5.9 A2
III 5.4
V 5.9 A3



II 5.6-5.7
IV 5.7
III 5.6
IV 5.8
IV 5.7 A3
IV 5.8
II 5.5



III 5.7
III 5.7
III 5.7
V 5.7 A4 or 5.11



III 5.7 A2 or 5.9
III 5.9
IV 5.8 A3



III 5.6 A1 or 5.9
III 5.5 A3 or 5.10 A2
V 5.9 A3
IV 5.9 A1 or 5.10
VI 5.9 A3 or 5.11
VI 5.11 A3
VI 5.10 A3
III 5.4
III-IV 5.9
IV 5.8
III 5.7
II 5.9



Fred Beckey's
100 Favorite North American Climbs

by Fred Beckey & Barry Blanchard, first published (hardcover) in 2012 by Patagonia Inc.



Pacific Northwest

1 Mt. Rainier, Kautz Glacier
2 Mt. Rainier, Ptarmigan Ridge
3 Mt. Index, North Peak
4 Mt. Stuart, West Ridge
5 Snow Creek Wall, Outer Space
6 Forbidden Peak, East Ridge
7 Mt. Goode, Northeast Buttress
8 Inspiration Peak, East Ridge
9 Mt. Fury, North Buttress
10 Mt. Baker, North Ridge
11 Mt. Shuksan, Fisher Chimneys
12 Slesse Mountain, Northeast Buttress
13 South Early Winter Spire, East Buttress
14 Mt. Hood, Yocum Ridge
15 Smith Rock, Zebra to Zion
16 Mt. Shasta, Hotlum Glacier

Alaska

17 Mt. Deborah
18 Mt. McKinley, Northwest Buttress
19 Mooses Tooth, Ham and Eggs Couloir
20 Mt. Seattle

British Columbia Coast Montains

21 SquamishSquamish Buttress
22 Squamish, Angel's Crest
23 Squamish, Snake
24 Golden Klattasine, West Buttress
25 Mt. Waddington, Southeast Chimney
26 Mt. Monarch
27 Kates Needle

Canadian Rockies, Selkirks, & Bugaboos

28 Mt. Assiniboine
29 Mt. Louis, Kain Route
30 Eisenhower Tower, Dragon's Back Route
31 Mt. Lefroy
32 Mt. Victoria, Southeast Ridge
33 Mt. Athabasca, Silverhorn
34 Mt. Edith Cavell, North Face
35 Oubliette Mountain, East Buttress
36 Mt. Robson, Kain Face
37 Adamant Mountain, South Buttress
38 Ironman, Southwest Buttress
39 Mt. Sir Sandford, Northwest Ridge
40 Mt. Sir Donald, Northwest Ridge
41 Bugaboo Spire, South Ridge
42 Snowpatch Spire, Snowpatch Route
43 Snowpatch Spire, E Face, Beckey-Mather
44 South Howser, W Buttress, Beckey-Chouinard
45 Gimli Peak, South Ridge

High Rockies

46 Grand Teton, Lower Exum Ridge
47 Grand Teton, North Ridge
48 Mt. Owen, Crescent Arete
49 Mt. Moran, C.M.C. Route
50 Musembeah Peak, West Buttress
51 Fremont Peak, West Buttress
52 Pingora Peak, South Buttress
53 Warrior I, Northeast Face
54 Shark's Nose, Southwest Face
55 Cathedral Lakes Peak, Orion's Reflection
56 Elephant's Perch, The Beckey Direct
57 Little Cottonwood Canyon, The Thumb
58 Lone Peak, West Face, Triple Overhangs
59 The Flatirons, Third Flatiron
60 Eldorado Canyon, Ruper
61 Lumpy Ridge, J-Crack
62 Lumpy Ridge, Mainliner
63 Hallett Peak, Culp-Bossier Route
64 Spearhead, Sykes' Sickle
65 Longs Peak, The Diamond, D7
66 Crestone Needle, Ellingwood Arete

Sierra Nevada


67 Lone Pine Peak, South Face
68 Lone Pine Peak, Bastille Buttress
69 Whitney Portal Buttress
70 Day Needle (aka Hilda Crooks Peak), E Buttress
71 Mt. Whitney, E Buttress (aka The Peewee Route)
72 Mt. Russell, Fishhook Arete
73 Thunderbolt Peak
74 Cathedral Peak, Southeast Buttress
75 Daff Dome, West Crack
76 Fairview Dome, Lucky Streaks
77 Calaveras Dome, Sands of Time
78 Half Dome, Snake Dike
79 Washington Column, South Face
80 Charlotte Dome, South Face
81 Angel Wings, Wings Over Sequoia
82 Warlock Needle, South Face
83 Voodoo Dome, White Punks on Dope

Southwest Desert

84 Castleton Tower, North Chimney
85 Kingfisher Tower, Colorado Northeast Ridge
86 Zion Canyon, Touchstone Wall
87 Zion Canyon, Prodigal Sun
88 Granite Mountain, The Classic
89 Cochise Stronghold, What's My Line?
90 Cochise Stronghold, Moby Dick
91 Red Rocks, Frogland
92 Red Rocks, Dream of Wild Turkeys
93 Red Rocks, Crimson Chrysalis
94 Red Rocks, Black Orpheus
95 Tahquitz Rock, Whodunit
96 Tahquitz Rock, The Open Book

Appalachian Mountains & Mexico

97 Looking Glass Rock, The Nose
98 Mt. Washington, Pinnacle Gully
99 El Gran Trono Blanco, South Face, Baile del Sol
100 Pico de Orizaba, Ruta Norte

Note: Various sources give some variation in route grades and classes.

II+

IV class 4-5
III  5.5
II-III 5.4-5.6
III 5.9
II-III 5.8
III+ 5.5
III 5.9
III-IV class 5 & steep snow
III+
II-III class 4
V 5.9+
IV 5.9+ A1 or 5.11-
IV
III 5.10a
II-III



V

IV class 4-5
IV 5.9 A1
III



IV 5.10c

IV 5.10c
III 5.9+
IV-V 5.9 A1
IV 5.7 possible rime
IV
III+



II+ 5.4

III+ 5.6-5.7
II-III 5.5
II-III
II+ class 4
III
IV+ 5.7
IV 5.7
IV
IV 5.7+
IV 5.10b or 5.7 A2
III class 4
III 5.4
II-III 5.6+
III-IV 5.8
VI 5.8 A2/A3
V 5.10-
IV 5.10a



III 5.8

IV 5.8
III 5.7
III 5.5
IV 5.8
IV 5.10
II 5.6-5.8
IV 5.9
III 5.8
V 5.10 and A2
IV-V 5.11a-b or 5.9 A2
III-IV 5.9+
III 5.10a or 5.9 A2
II 5.4
III 5.8+
II-III 5.10a
III 5.9
III 5.8
IV 5.9+
V 5.11d or 5.7 A2
III 5.7



V 5.7 A1

IV+ 5.11 A0 or 5.10 A1
IV 5.10b A2
IV 5.8 A2 or 5.9+
III 5.7
III-IV 5.9
II class 4
II 5.6
III 5.9
IV 5.10c
IV 5.9+
III 5.7
V 5.9 A1
III+ 5.8+
V 5.9 A3
III-IV 5.9+ or 5.10c
III 5.9



II-III 5.9
IV 5.8 A2
IV-V 5.8 A2 or 5.10 A1
IV-V 5.5-5.8 A2
II-III 5.8
II 5.7 A0 or 5.10c
III 5.8+
III 5.8
IV 5.10-
IV 5.9
IV 5.10
III 5.9
III 5.9



II 5.8
III WI3
IV 5.10c
II