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My
"To
Climb"
List


Alpine climbs and traverses I hope to do, from close to home in Washington to far and wide around the world.


Disclaimer: This list is by no means exhaustive.


NEARBY


ELSEWHERE

NORTH CASCADES, WASHINGTON
  • Mt. Baring (North Face, or traverse)
  • Bear Mtn (North Buttress Direct)
  • Big Kangaroo (Beckey-Tate)
  • Burgundy Spire (Paisano Pinnacle)
  • Chopping Block (NE Ridge)
  • Crooked Thumb
  • Cutthroat Peak (South Buttress)
  • Mt. Daniel (winter/spring)
  • Mt. Dickerman (snowshoe)
  • Dome Peak (Grand Torino)
  • Dorado Needle (SW Buttress)
  • Dragontail Peak (Triple Couloirs, Backbone Arete)
  • Early Morning Spire (SW Face)
  • Mt. Fury (NE Face)
  • Mt. Garfield (SW Route)
  • Green Giant Buttress (Dreamer)
  • Gunsights (Gunrunner Traverse)
  • Himmelgeisterhorn (Wild Hair Crack)
  • Hozomeen (NW Buttress of SW Peak)
  • Ingalls Peak (South Ridge)
  • Lexington Tower (E Face)
  • Liberty Bell (NW Face)
  • Nooksack Tower (Beckey-Schmidtke Route)
  • North Early Winter Spire (NW Corner)
  • Phantom
  • South Early Winter Spire (SW Couloir)
  • Sharkfin Tower (SE Ridge or S Face)
  • Sherpa Peak (North Ridge & Balanced Rock)
  • Sloan Peak (W Face or Corkscrew Route)
  • Mt. Stuart (NE Face, N Ridge (again))
  • Swiss Peak (NE Face, Central Pillar)
  • Vesper Peak (North Face)
  • Whitehorse Mtn (Whitehorse Glacier)
Trips with multiple summits:
  • Austera-Klawatti-Primus-Tricouni-Dorado Needle
  • Arriva-Fisher-Silent Lakes
  • Bacon-Hagen-Blum
  • Buckindy Traverse
  • Chimney-Overcoat
  • Index-Baring Traverse
  • Maude-Seven Fingered Jack-Fernow
  • Ragged Ridge Traverse (Mesahchie-Katsuk-Kimtah)
  • Ruth-Icy
  • Ptarmigan Traverse (with 20 summits along the way)
  • Luna Creek gear retrieval (from 2007 adventure in Northern Pickets)
  • Luna Basin "Geology Trip" (perhaps combine with gear retrieval trip)
  • All standing Fire Lookouts in the Cascades (with a night photo of each!)

OTHER AREAS IN WASHINGTON

  • Mt. Adams
  • Pasayten Wilderness (MMG Traverse, Cathedral Peak (SEB), Pilgrimage to Mecca on Ka'aba buttress of Amphitheatre Mtn)
  • Royal Basin, Olympics
  • Mt. Anderson, Olympics
  • Mt. Constance, Olympics
  • Mt. Queets and surrounding, Olympics
  • Gargoyles, Olympics

And many, many others....

CANADA
  • Assiniboine
  • Castle
  • Devil's Thumb
  • Edith Cavel (North Face)
  • Mt. Louis (Kain Route)
  • Mt. Logan
  • Lotus Flower Tower
  • Robson (Kain Face, South Route)
  • Waddington, Combatant (Skywalk Buttress), and surrounding area
  • Takakkaw Falls
  • Steinbok or Chamonix Peaks (Steinbok Arete)
  • Yak Peak (Yak-Check)
  • Mt. Indefatigable (Joy)

CALIFORNIA
  • Charlotte Dome (S Face) 
  • Clyde Minaret (Direct SE Face) 
  • El Capitan (The Nose)
  • Evolution Traverse
  • Mt. Goode (N Buttress)
  • Mt. Russel (Mithral Dihedral, Western Front
  • Temple Crag (Sun Ribbon Arête, Moon Goddess Arête, Venusian Blind)
  • Mt. Whitney (E Face, E Buttress)  
  • The Needles...

WYOMING

  • Grand Teton (North Face)
  • Grand Traverse
  • Mt. Moran (Direct South Buttress)
  • Warrior I (Beckey Route)
  • Warbonnet (Feather Buttress)
  • Mitchell (North Face Center)
  • Devil's Tower
  • Gannett Peak

COLORADO
  • Longs Peak (The Diamond)

UTAH
  • Castleton Tower (Kor-Ingalls Route)
  • Fisher Towers (The Titan)
  • Moonlight Buttress
  • Climbing roadtrip involving towers around Moab, and maybe even some Zion NP climbs.

OREGON

  • Mt. Hood (North Face or any route)

SOUTH DAKOTA

  • Needle's Eye (Threading the Needle)

IDAHO
  • Sawtooths (Finger of Fate, Warbonnet, etc.)

ALASKA
  • Brooks Range, Arrigetch Peaks (Pillar Arete, West Maiden Peak NB, Shot Tower W Ridge)
  • Denali
  • Foraker and Hunter

INTERNATIONAL
  • Dolomites, Italy (again)
  • Matterhorn, Switz (again)
  • Eiger, Switz (just because)
  • Aiguille Dibona, France
  • Aconcagua, Argentina
  • Nepal area
  • Alpamayo, Peruvian Andes
  • Mt. Aspiring, New Zealand

And many, many others....



Also on my "to-climb" list are any climbs from Fifty Classic Climbs of North America (by Steck and Roper) and Fred Beckey's 100 Favorite North American Climbs (by none other than Fred Beckey). These two lists are provided below for reference. I have climbed a handful of these great routes, and have linked respective trip reports (if I have climbed via a different route, the link is given for the main formation rather than the route). Lots of great routes in my climbing future!


Fifty Classic Climbs of North America

by Steve Roper & Alan Steck, first published (hardcover) in 1979 by Sierra Club Books.


Poster I made showing color-coded locations of the Fifty Classic Climbs.



Alaska and the Yukon

1 Mount Saint Elias, Abruzzi Ridge
2 Mount Fairweather, Carpe Ridge
3 Mount Hunter, West Ridge
4 Mount McKinley, Cassin Ridge
5 Moose’s Tooth, West Ridge
6 Mount Huntington, West Face
7 Mount Logan, Hummingbird Ridge
8 Middle Triple Peak, East Buttress

Western Canada

9 Mount Sir Donald, Northwest Arete
10 Bugaboo Spire, East Ridge
11 South Howser Tower, West Buttress
12 Mount Robson, Wishbone Arete
13 Mount Edith Cavell, North Face
14 Mount Alberta, Japanese Route
15 Mount Temple, East Ridge
16 Mount Waddington, South Face
17 Devil’s Thumb, East Ridge
18 Lotus Flower Tower

The Pacific Northwest

19 Mount Rainier, Liberty Ridge
20 Forbidden Peak, West Ridge
21 Mount Shuksan, Price Glacier
22 Slesse Mountain, Northeast Buttress
23 Mount Stuart, North Ridge
24 Liberty Bell Mountain, Liberty Crack

Wyoming

25 Devil’s Tower, Durrance Route
26 Grand Teton, North Ridge
27 Grand Teton, Direct Exum Ridge
28 Grand Teton, North Face
29 Mount Moran, Direct South Buttress
30 Pingora, Northeast Face
31 Wolf’s Head, East Ridge

Colorado

32 Crestone Needle, Ellingwood Ledges
33 Hallett Peak, Northcutt-Carter Route
34 Petit Grepon, South Face
35 Longs Peak, The Diamond

The Southwest

36 Shiprock
37 Castleton Tower, Kor-Ingalls Route
38 The Titan

California

39 The Royal Arches
40 Lost Arrow Spire
41 Sentinel Rock, Steck-Salathe Route
42 Middle Cathedral Rock, East Buttress
43 Half Dome, Northwest Face
44 El Capitan, Nose Route
45 El Capitan, Salathe Wall
46 Mount Whitney, East Face
47 Fairview Dome, North Face
48 Clyde Minaret, Southeast Face
49 Charlotte Dome, South Face
50 Lover’s Leap, Traveler Buttress

Note: Various sources give some variation in route grades and classes.

?
?
IV 5.8 AI3
V 5.8 AI4
V ice/cornices
VI 5.9 A2 WI3-4
?
VI 5.9 A3



III 5.2
III 5.7
V 5.8 A2 or 5.10
V 5.6
IV 5.7
IV 5.6
IV 5.6
V 5.7
IV 5.6
V 5.8 A2 or 5.10



IV
II 5.2
IV
V 5.9 A2
III 5.4
V 5.9 A3



II 5.6-5.7
IV 5.7
III 5.6
IV 5.8
IV 5.7 A3
IV 5.8
II 5.5



III 5.7
III 5.7
III 5.7
V 5.7 A4 or 5.11



III 5.7 A2 or 5.9
III 5.9
IV 5.8 A3



III 5.6 A1 or 5.9
III 5.5 A3 or 5.10 A2
V 5.9 A3
IV 5.9 A1 or 5.10
VI 5.9 A3 or 5.11
VI 5.11 A3
VI 5.10 A3
III 5.4
III-IV 5.9
IV 5.8
III 5.7
II 5.9



Fred Beckey's
100 Favorite North American Climbs

by Fred Beckey & Barry Blanchard, first published (hardcover) in 2012 by Patagonia Inc.



Pacific Northwest

1 Mt. Rainier, Kautz Glacier
2 Mt. Rainier, Ptarmigan Ridge
3 Mt. Index, North Peak
4 Mt. Stuart, West Ridge
5 Snow Creek Wall, Outer Space
6 Forbidden Peak, East Ridge
7 Mt. Goode, Northeast Buttress
8 Inspiration Peak, East Ridge
9 Mt. Fury, North Buttress
10 Mt. Baker, North Ridge
11 Mt. Shuksan, Fisher Chimneys
12 Slesse Mountain, Northeast Buttress
13 South Early Winter Spire, East Buttress
14 Mt. Hood, Yocum Ridge
15 Smith Rock, Zebra to Zion
16 Mt. Shasta, Hotlum Glacier

Alaska

17 Mt. Deborah
18 Mt. McKinley, Northwest Buttress
19 Mosses Tooth, Ham and Eggs Couloir
20 Mt. Seattle

British Columbia Coast Montains

21 Squamish, Squamish Buttress
22
Squamish, Angel's Crest
23
Squamish, Snake
24 Golden Klattasine, West Buttress
25 Mt. Waddington, Southeast Chimney
26 Mt. Monarch
27 Kates Needle

Canadian Rockies, Selkirks, & Bugaboos

28 Mt. Assiniboine
29 Mt. Louis, Kain Route
30 Eisenhower Tower, Dragon's Back Route
31 Mt. Lefroy
32 Mt. Victoria, Southeast Ridge
33 Mt. Athabasca, Silverhorn
34 Mt. Edith Cavell, North Face
35 Oubliette Mountain, East Buttress
36 Mt. Robson, Kain Face
37 Adamant Mountain, South Buttress
38 Ironman, Southwest Buttress
39 Mt. Sir Sandford, Northwest Ridge
40 Mt. Sir Donald, Northwest Ridge
41 Bugaboo Spire, South Ridge
42 Snowpatch Spire, Snowpatch Route
43 Snowpatch Spire, E Face, Beckey-Mather
44 South Howser, W Buttress, Beckey-Chouinard
45 Gimli Peak, South Ridge

High Rockies

46 Grand Teton, Lower Exum Ridge
47
Grand Teton, North Ridge
48 Mt. Owen, Crescent Arete
49 Mt. Moran, C.M.C. Route
50 Musembeah Peak, West Buttress
51 Fremont Peak, West Buttress
52 Pingora Peak, South Buttress
53 Warrior I, Northeast Face
54 Shark's Nose, Southwest Face
55 Cathedral Lakes Peak, Orion's Reflection
56 Elephant's Perch, The Beckey Direct
57 Little Cottonwood Canyon, The Thumb
58 Lone Peak, West Face, Triple Overhangs
59 The Flatirons, Third Flatiron
60 Eldorado Canyon, Ruper
61 Lumpy Ridge, J-Crack
62 Lumpy Ridge, Mainliner
63 Hallett Peak, Culp-Bossier Route
64 Spearhead, Sykes' Sickle
65 Longs Peak, The Diamond, D7
66 Crestone Needle, Ellingwood Arete

Sierra Nevada


67 Lone Pine Peak, South Face
68 Lone Pine Peak, Bastille Buttress
69 Whitney Portal Buttress
70 Day Needle (aka Hilda Crooks Peak), E Buttress
71 Mt. Whitney, E Buttress (aka The Peewee Route)
72 Mt. Russell, Fishhook Arete
73 Thunderbolt Peak
74 Cathedral Peak, Southeast Buttress
75 Daff Dome, West Crack
76 Fairview Dome, Lucky Streaks
77 Calaveras Dome, Sands of Time
78 Half Dome, Snake Dike
79 Washington Column, South Face
80 Charlotte Dome, South Face
81 Angel Wings, Wings Over Sequoia
82 Warlock Needle, South Face
83 Voodoo Dome, White Punks on Dope

Southwest Desert

84 Castleton Tower, North Chimney
85 Kingfisher Tower, Colorado Northeast Ridge
86 Zion Canyon, Touchstone Wall
87 Zion Canyon, Prodigal Sun
88 Granite Mountain, The Classic
89 Cochise Stronghold, What's My Line?
90 Cochise Stronghold, Moby Dick
91 Red Rocks, Frogland
92
Red Rocks, Dream of Wild Turkeys
93
Red Rocks, Crimson Chrysalis
94
Red Rocks, Black Orpheus
95 Tahquitz Rock, Whodunit
96 Tahquitz Rock, The Open Book

Appalachian Mountains & Mexico

97 Looking Glass Rock, The Nose
98 Mt. Washington, Pinnacle Gully
99 El Gran Trono Blanco, South Face, Baile del Sol
100 Pico de Orizaba, Ruta Norte


Note: Various sources give some variation in route grades and classes.

II+

IV class 4-5
III  5.5
II-III 5.4-5.6
III 5.9
II-III 5.8
III+ 5.5
III 5.9
III-IV class 5 & steep snow
III+
II-III class 4
V 5.9+
IV 5.9+ A1 or 5.11-
IV
III 5.10a
II-III



V

IV class 4-5
IV 5.9 A1
III



IV 5.10c

IV 5.10c
III 5.9+
IV-V 5.9 A1
IV 5.7 possible rime
IV
III+



II+ 5.4

III+ 5.6-5.7
II-III 5.5
II-III
II+ class 4
III
IV+ 5.7
IV 5.7
IV
IV 5.7+
IV 5.10b or 5.7 A2
III class 4
III 5.4
II-III 5.6+
III-IV 5.8
VI 5.8 A2/A3
V 5.10-
IV 5.10a



III 5.8

IV 5.8
III 5.7
III 5.5
IV 5.8
IV 5.10
II 5.6-5.8
IV 5.9
III 5.8
V 5.10 and A2
IV-V 5.11a-b or 5.9 A2
III-IV 5.9+
III 5.10a or 5.9 A2
II 5.4
III 5.8+
II-III 5.10a
III 5.9
III 5.8
IV 5.9+
V 5.11d or 5.7 A2
III 5.7



V 5.7 A1

IV+ 5.11 A0 or 5.10 A1
IV 5.10b A2
IV 5.8 A2 or 5.9+
III 5.7
III-IV 5.9
II class 4
II 5.6
III 5.9
IV 5.10c
IV 5.9+
III 5.7
V 5.9 A1
III+ 5.8+
V 5.9 A3
III-IV 5.9+ or 5.10c
III 5.9



II-III 5.9
IV 5.8 A2
IV-V 5.8 A2 or 5.10 A1
IV-V 5.5-5.8 A2
II-III 5.8
II 5.7 A0 or 5.10c
III 5.8+
III 5.8
IV 5.10-
IV 5.9
IV 5.10
III 5.9
III 5.9



II 5.8
III WI3
IV 5.10c
II