(LIST OF CLIMBS + 3 "TRIP REPORTS")
Category: Utah
Elev: ~5800 ft
Rock Type: Wingate Sandstone
 
2018-2020
 

INDIAN CREEK Climbing


Indian Creek arguably has the largest concentration of splitter crack climbing in the world. Cracks of all sizes split the towering red sandstone walls everywhere you look. A crack-climber's paradise.

"The guidebook said to bring 6 #1's, so we brought 1 #6...."

What an awesome place.

The first time I climbed in Indian Creek was in September 2018, on an impulsive detour on a drive from Montana back to Washington (where I lived at the time), when I got a text from a friend looking for a partner for a weekend in the Creek. 17 extra hours of driving for 2 days of climbing? Plus climb at a time when there is no crowds? It was a no brainer.

The second time I climbed at Indian Creek was over Thanksgiving Break 2019. It was my first fall after moving to Boulder from Washington, and I snatched the first opportunity to make it to the Creek (now much closer than 17 hours drive) for a few days. Unfortunately, an unforecasted snowstorm cut our trip in half, but we still got in two great days of climbing and had the rare opportunity to see the Creek blanketed in snow. It was another Creek teaser trip... 

The trip had a surreal undercurrent to it, due to the coronavirus COVID-19 outbreak that was sweeping over the globe. When I left Boulder, there were a few thousand confirmed cases of COVID-19 in the US, school had just transitioned into online mode, and "social distancing" was quickly becoming the catch phrase. But over the course of the week while I was blissfully climbing splitters in the Creek, the number of confirmed cases in the US bloomed to over 120,000, places all over the country (including back home in Boulder) were issued a "stay-at-home" mandate to try to flatten the epidemic curve, and by the final day of my trip San Juan county (where Indian Creek is located) itself had closed its doors to "leisure activity". Everyday life had changed a lot over the course of the week, but it had been nice to escape for a bit.

I will surely return to the Creek several times over the years, so I just keep a list of the climbs I've done there (on this page). Below the list, I've also included my original trip reports from first and second trips to the Creek.



ON THIS PAGE:

LINK
List of climbs I've done at Indian Creek
2018 trip report (1st trip to the Creek: A weekend at Indian Creek — 12 routes)
SEPT
14-16
2018

TR #: 321
2019 trip report (Thanksgiving at the Creek — 2 days of climbing + snowstorm!)
NOV
25 & 28
2019

TR #: 384
2020 trip report (Spring Break at the Creek — 6 days of climbing)
MAR
22-27
2020

TR #: 400
Other random photos from cragging at Indian Creek




(Still quite small)List of climbs I've done at Indian Creek

(Alphabetical order by area)
CLIMB DIFFICULTY

(everything is 1 pitch unless noted otherwise)
    =multi-pitch
AREA

Color coded:
   =Battle of the Bulge Buttress
   =Critic's Choice
   =Donnelly Canyon
   =North Six Shooter
   =Reservoir Wall
   =Scarface Wall
   =South Six Shooter
   =Supercrack Buttress

   =The Wall
   =Way Rambo Wall
DATE CLIMBED

Color-coded:
Spring
Summer
Fall
Winter
Cave Route, The 5.10+, 80' Battle of the Bulge Buttress Mar 22, 2020
Crack Attack 5.11, 90' Battle of the Bulge Buttress Nov 28, 2019
Elbow Vices 5.10, 90' Battle of the Bulge Buttress Mar 26, 2020
Finger Lickin' Good (alt. finish to The Moon Also Rises) 5.11, 50' Battle of the Bulge Buttress Mar 22, 2020
Jagged Wedge, The 5.10, 70' Battle of the Bulge Buttress Mar 22, 2020
Jane Fonda Total Body Workout, The 5.11-, 130' Battle of the Bulge Buttress Nov 28, 2019
Moon Also Rises, The 5.11-, 110' Battle of the Bulge Buttress Mar 22, 2020
Mystery Machine 5.10, 150' Battle of the Bulge Buttress Mar 22, 2020
Our Piece of the Real Estate 5.11-, 110' Battle of the Bulge Buttress Nov 28, 2019
Pigs in Space 5.10+, 115' Battle of the Bulge Buttress Mar 26, 2020
Quarter of a Man 5.11+, 120' Battle of the Bulge Buttress Nov 28, 2019
Railroad Tracks 5.10-, 50' Battle of the Bulge Buttress Nov 28, 2019;
Mar 22, 2020
Ruins Crack 5.11, 70' Battle of the Bulge Buttress Nov 28, 2019
Sporty Spice aka New World Order 5.11a/b/c, 90' Battle of the Bulge Buttress Mar 26, 2020
Swedin-Ringle 5.12-, 50' Battle of the Bulge Buttress Mar 22, 2020
Three Strikes You're Out 5.11, 90' Battle of the Bulge Buttress Mar 22, 2020
Warm-Up, The 5.9, 40' Battle of the Bulge Buttress Nov 28, 2019
Bunny Slope 5.9+, 130' Critic's Choice Mar 27, 2020
Binou's Crack 5.9, 50' Donnelly Canyon Sept 16, 2018
Chocolate Corner 5.9, 60' Donnelly Canyon Sept 16, 2018
Elephant Man Pitch 1 5.10, 70' Donnelly Canyon Sept 16, 2018
Generic Crack 5.10-, 120' Donnelly Canyon Sept 16, 2018
Talk Dusty to Me aka South Face, Far Left 5.9+, 1p North Six Shooter Mar 26, 2020
Overlook 5.10/5.11, 110/80', 2p Reservoir Wall Sept 15, 2018
Pente 5.11-, 160' Reservoir Wall Sept 15, 2018
Warm-up Handcrack 5.10, 105' Reservoir Wall Sept 15, 2018


Scarface Wall
South Face, Trade Route 5.5-5.7, 2-3p South Six Shooter Mar 23, 2020
South Face, Angling Crack 5.10, 1p South Six Shooter Mar 23, 2020
South Face, Offwidth 5.10, 1p South Six Shooter Mar 23, 2020
3am Crack 5.10, 105' Supercrack Buttress Mar 25, 2020
Amaretto Pitch 1 5.9+, 60' Supercrack Buttress Mar 25, 2020
Bad-Rad Duality 5.10+, 110' Supercrack Buttress Sept 14, 2018
Coyne Crack 5.11+, 70' Supercrack Buttress Sept 14, 2018
Incredible Hand Crack, The 5.10, 100' Supercrack Buttress Sept 14, 2018
Keyhole Flakes 5.10, 80' Supercrack Buttress Mar 25, 2020
No Name Crack 5.10, 110' Supercrack Buttress Mar 25, 2020
Supercrack 5.10, 100' Supercrack Buttress Sept 14, 2018
Twin Cracks 5.9, 60' Supercrack Buttress Mar 25, 2020
Unnamed handcrack to left of Supercrack 5.9+, 30' Supercrack Buttress Mar 25, 2020
Unnamed offwidth to left of Supercrack 5.6, 30' Supercrack Buttress Mar 25, 2020
Wave, The 5.10+, 100' Supercrack Buttress Sept 14, 2018
Wild Works of Fire 5.10, 75' Supercrack Buttress Mar 25, 2020
Circling Sky 5.10-, 60' The Wall Nov 25, 2019
Dancing Queen 5.11+, 70' The Wall Nov 25, 2019
Dirty Girl 5.9, 35' The Wall Nov 25, 2019
Dirty Woman 5.9, 35' The Wall Nov 25, 2019
Run Like Hell 5.10, 85' The Wall Nov 25, 2019
Trial, The 5.10, 110' The Wall Nov 25, 2019
Which One's Pink? 5.11-, 100' The Wall Nov 25, 2019
Blue Sun (aka Fun in the Sun) 5.10-, 65' Way Rambo Wall Mar 24, 2020
Chest Full of Kind 5.10, 45' Way Rambo Wall Mar 24, 2020
Fuzz 5.10, 115' Way Rambo Wall Mar 24, 2020
Renegades of Funk (aka Bernoulli Effect) 5.10, 65' Way Rambo Wall Mar 24, 2020
Rochambeau 5.9, 75' Way Rambo Wall Mar 24, 2020
Way Nutter 5.9, 50' Way Rambo Wall Mar 24, 2020
Way Rambo 5.12-, 100' Way Rambo Wall Mar 24, 2020


Photos
Original trip reports for first few times at the Creek



 
<-- Map of summer 2018 
     climbing roadtrip 
     (click to enlarge)

INDIAN CREEK Sept 2018

SEPT
14-16
2018
TR #: 321

Category: Utah       Elev: ~5,800 ft       Rock Type: Wingate Sandstone

Partner: Alex Haeger, Penny

A weekend in the creek — 12 routes.

Intro

I was headed back to Washington from a 2-week climbing trip in Montana. Google maps said 12 hours drive from Bozeman to Bellingham. I was just about to start the drive when I got a text from my friend Alex from Boulder: "Headed to the Creek for the weekend, looking for a partner, any chance you are in the area?" I checked Google maps: 29 hours drive from Bozeman to Bellingham via Indian Creek. Hmm....17 additional hours of driving for 2 days of climbing in Indian Creek? It was a no brainer.

Alex and I climbed 12 routes over the course of 2.3 days (we climbed full days Friday and Saturday, and squeezed in a few hours on Sunday morning before Alex left to drive back to Boulder). All but one of the routes we climbed are listed in the "The Best Of" list at the end of the guidebook. Daily high temperatures reached the high 80's, but we woke up early and targeted shady routes, and it was actually quite pleasant. The following gives photos from the routes we climbed.

Climbs / Photos

Photos:
Photo descriptions:
 
 Supercrack Buttress
(5 routes — Sept 14)
 
Area photos
Random photos from the day...
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1. The empty parking lot below Supercrack Buttress. We had the entire Supercrack Buttress to ourselves this day! This place will be swarming in a few weeks.
2. Penny (Alex's dog) enjoying the view.
3. Looking north up 211.
4. Penny taking a nap on a sandstone pillow.

Climb 
1
Sept 14
The Incredible Hand Crack (5.10, 100'), Supercrack Buttress
Lead: Steph; Follow: Alex   
(+toprope lap)        Size: hands
1.    
2.    
3.    
4.    
  
 
  
  

   
  

  
  
 
 
1. Our first climb of the trip—looks pretty incredible!
2. Starting up the corner.
3. Looking down the corner.
4. Cam lobe scars etched into the soft sandstone. These scars occurred right before the crux roof section, so they are probably from falls jamming the cam lobes into the rock. There a couple of deep ones from some pretty big whippers (or very heavy climbers)!

Climb
2
Sept 14
The Wave (5.10+, 100'), Supercrack Buttress
Lead: Alex  Follow: Steph        Size: varied corner
1.    
2.    
3.    
1. Sign at the base of the route. Not uncommon in the Creek.
2. Alex starting up the pitch.
3. You can see how the route got its name.
Climb
3
Sept 14
Coyne Crack (5.11+, 70'), Supercrack Buttress
Lead: Steph; Follow: Alex   (+toprope lap)          Size: thin hands
1.    
2.    
3.    
1. Looking up Coyne Crack. Funny story: We thought this was Supercrack (5.10) (it looked like a pretty super crack after all). So I racked up with the recommended rack (for Supercrack)—heavy on wide hands pieces. A couple of moves into the route, it seemed kind of hard off-fingers, so I stepped back down to get an #0.5 cam ("must be a typo in the rack description"). I started back up. A couple of moves higher than I had gotten the first time, I clued in that there was a 20-foot section of super thin hands above me; I lowered back down to collect a handful of #0.75 cams ("hmmm, these Creek climbers must be hard core to climb that entire stretch with only one #0.75"). Once through the #0.75 terrain I was now looking at a long stretch of #1-sized terrain and no wide-hands in sight ("okay, now this is getting silly"); I stopped and lowered a bite of rope to get a handful of #1 cams. "Are we sure this is Supercrack?" I yelled down to Alex. "Seems kinda hard too." At that very moment, Alex spotted a rock lying at the based of the crack, etched into it the words  "oyne Crack" (the "C" had broken off). Coyne Crack is a 5.11+. Ha! (I bet we were not the first to make this mistake.) At this point I was committed and the climbing was excellent anyway, so I barreled on up, with more than a few shameless C1 moves along the way. Oh well, in the end It made for a funny story and we also seized the opportunity to do a couple of toprope laps on this 5.11+ classic, which we probably wouldn't hav attempted if we had known what route it was.
2. Looking down from the anchor. The crack becomes more featured (and easier and quite fun) near the top.
3. Sign at base of route. The "C" has broken off but this is clearly not Supercrack!
Climb
4
Sept 14
Supercrack (5.10, 100'), Supercrack Buttress
Lead: Alex;  Follow: Steph  (+toprope lap)          Size: wide hands
1.    
2.    
3.    
4.    
1. This is Supercrack.
2. The first half is an awesome hand-sized splitter.
3. The second half up the varnished face is a wide-hands spitter.
4. Shadow fun while lowering down the wide-hands splitter.


Climb
5
Sept 14
Bad-Rad Duality (5.10+, 110'), Supercrack Buttress
Lead: Steph; Follow: Alex  (+toprope lap)         Size: varied corner
1.    
2.    
3.    
4.    
1. The Bad-Rad Duality corner. 
2. Looking down the corner. Reminded me of Sierra-style corner climbing with lots of stemming moves.
3. Another view down the corner. The sun hit the route as we were toproping it.
4. The anchor at the top.
 
 Reservoir Wall
(3 routes — Sept 15)
 
Area photos
Random photos from the day...
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1. Sunrise light on North and South Six Shooters. There are a couple of good 5.11 routes on North Six Shooter I'd love to climb someday.
2. Approaching Reservoir Wall. Photo by Alex.
3. Silhouette on the hike up to the base of Reservoir Wall.
4. Hiking around the base on the way to Warm-up Handcrack at the far end of the wall.
5. Some cool rocks along the way. (My go-to geologist consult Doug McKeever says: "This is a fine-grained sandstone with the little ridges being mudcracks from desiccation of surface standing water in the original environment of deposition. As the next layer of sediment was deposited it fills the cracks. But wait, these "filled cracks"are little ridges (positive features). Mudcracks are negative features! The " inversion" is because we are looking at the bottom of  the layer. The view in the picture is "upside down."  Oh yeah...the white stuff is most likely a thin layer of salt, probably halite, deposited by evaporation of surface water. Also, there are raindrop impressions! They are the small round spots particularly noticeable on the left-side area of the surface. They are frequently found with mudcracks. Those two along with salt imply an original hot arid environment with drought interrupted by periods of rain. You could have an hour's class on this one rock sample!")
6. Some cool rocks along the way. (Doug says: "This sure appears to be volcanic breccia, which seems odd in Indian Creek, but there are extinct volcanoes in the region. It undoubtedly originated in the igneous Abajo Mountains just to the south( and upstream).")
7. Morning light on the Indian Creek area below.
8. Afternoon light and shadow. The desert is the definition of "vast".
9. Just another version of the afternoon light and shadow sequence.
10. This offwidth splitter system looks unique and fun to climb (we didn't climb it, but I will have to climb it someday).
11. Penny entertained herself by building a cairn while we were climbing.
12. Hiking out after a good day of climin'!

13. A view back of Reservoir Wall.
Climb
6
Sept 15
Warm-Up Handcrack (5.10, 105'), Reservoir Wall
Lead: Alex; Follow: Steph  (+toprope lap)          Size: hands
1.    
2.    
3.    
1. This climb is compared to The Incredible Hand Crack. Indeed, it is pretty good and worth the long hike.
2. Hand jams the whole way up.
3. Anchor at the top.


Climb
7
Sept 15
Overlook (5.10/5.11, 110/80', 2p), Reservoir Wall
Lead Pitch 1: Steph   Lead Pitch 2: Alex          Size: offwidth + thin hands
1.    
2.    
3.    
4.    
5.    
6.    
7.    
8.    
9.    
1. Looking up from the base. Pitch 1 squirrels through some offwidth to the base of the obvious vertical splitter you can see on the upper wall in the photo. Pitch 2 climbs this splitter.
2. Pitch 1 reminds me of some of the tower climbing I've done in the Moab area: giant features that require a mix of offwidth, chimney, and stemming, and are unprotected or protected by big cams. (For big cams, we had 2 #3's, 1 #4, 2 #5's, and 1 #6; I used all of them on Pitch 1 and felt pretty comfortable. Save the #6 and a #3 for the final offwidth.)
3. The offwidth at the top of the pitch. It actually widens to a #6 size just above where I have placed the #5, so bring a #6.
4. Alex following the offwidth. The cam with the green carabiner midway up the offwidth is a #6.
5. The Pitch 2 splitter. "The guidebook said to bring 6 #1's, so we brought 1 #6."
6. Alex starting up Pitch 2. Yes, it is that steep!
7. Alex starting up Pitch 2.
8. Looking down the Pitch 2 splitter. As we were climbing, several chips of rock came off the edges of the crack. The route is obviously not climbed as much as the rounded trade-route splitters. But that doesn't mean it's not great climbing! (But it will tear apart your shoes.)

9. The somewhat manky anchor ("mankor") at the top of Pitch 2.
Climb
8
Sept 15
Pente (5.11-, 160'), Reservoir Wall
Lead: Steph; Follow: Alex   (+toprope lap)         Size: tight hands
1.    
2.    
3.    
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5.    
6.    
7.    
1. Sign at the base of the route. Not uncommon in the Creek.
2. Looking up at Pente. When we arrived, there was a party just starting up Pente, but we decided it was worth the wait. And it was!
3. #1-sized splitter. My favorite size.
4. I think I brought 8 #1's and used them all.
5. The upper corner is #0.75-sized. Harder if you have bigger hands....
6. Alex, 150 feet up, 10 feet to go! It's an enduro pitch.
7. Rope scars etched into the soft sandstone.
 
 Donnelly Canyon
(4 routes — Sept 16)
 
Area photos
Random photos from the day...
1.    
2.    

1-2. The sun is coming....it's about to get pretty warm...
Climb
9
Sept 16
Generic Crack (5.10-, 120'), Donnelly Canyon
Lead: Alex; Follow: Steph   (+toprope lap)          Size: hands
1.    
2.    
3.    
4.    
1. Generic Crack climbs the obvious worn crack splitting the face.
2. The rack: 10 #2's.
3. A #2-sized handcrack the whole way up.
4. Belay shadow in the morning sun (the sun hit as Alex got halfway up leading the route).


Climb
10
Sept 16
Binou's Crack (5.9, 50'), Donnelly Canyon
Lead: Steph; Follow: Alex          Size: varied
1.    
2.      
1. A short but fun route up the corner.
2. Climb the wide crack on the left or the fingercrack on the right, or a mix of both.

Climb
11
Sept 16
Chocolate Corner (5.9, 60'), Donnelly Canyon
Lead: Steph: Follow: Alex          Size: thin hands
1.    
1. A short but fun corner with thin hand jams the whole way up.
Climb
12
Sept 16
Elephant Man Pitch1 (5.10, 70'), Donnelly Canyon
Lead: Steph: Follow: Alex          Size: varied
1.    
1. Funky but fun crack climbing.
 
 Camping and Newspaper Rock photos
 
Camping photos
Bridger Jack Campground, off Utah State Route 211 in middle of Indian Creek climbing area
Free climber camping
1.    
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1. Driving along 211, passing giant buttresses of splitter cracks....
2. Most climbers camp at the Bridger Jack Campground, which is free camping off 211. The road to the campground is a bit rough, but 2wd.
3. Our campsite. We were the only ones there on Thursday and Friday nights, and there were a few other climbers there on Saturday night. This place fills up every night in the fall and spring, so it was a rare treat to be able to have the camping area to ourselves.
4. My "office". 
5. Evening view from the campground.
6. Some toy cars I found at our campsite.
7. I think my rack would be considered "small" by Creek standards! But combined with Alex's rack, we had a full "Indian Creek rack" (~6-10 of the thin hands, hands, and wide hand sizes....).


Newspaper Rock photos
Newspaper Rock, on Utah State Route 211 on way to Indian Creek climbing area
Newspaper Rock State Historic Monument is a Utah state monument featuring a rock panel carved with one of the largest known collections of petroglyphs. From the sign at the monument: "Newspaper Rock is a petroglyph panel etched in sandstone that records approximately 2,000 years of early human activity. Prehistoric peoples, probably from the Archaic, Basketmaker, Fremont, and Pueblo cultures, etched on the rock from B.C. time to A.D. 1300. In historic times, Ute and Navajo people, as well as European Americans, made their contributions. In interpreting the figures on the rock, scholars are undecided as to their meaning or have yet to decipher them. In Navajo, the rock is called "Tse' Hane'" (Rock that tells a story). Unfortunately, we do not know if the figures represent storytelling, doodling, hunting magic, clan symbols, ancient graffiti, or something else. Without a true understanding of the petroglyphs, much is left for individual interpretation. Newspaper Rock is listed in the National Register of Historic Places. Please continue to preserve it."
1.    
2.    
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1-4. Photos of the petroglyphs.



INDIAN CREEK Thanksgiving 2019

NOV
25 & 28
2019
TR #: 384

Category: Utah       Elev: ~5,800 ft       Rock Type: Wingate Sandstone

Partner: Mike Cichon

2 days of climbing + snowstorm!

Intro

My goal was to spend my first Thanksgiving in Colorado at Indian Creek. And I did. Well, sort of. An unforecasted snowstorm sort of cut our trip in half, but we still got in two great days of climbing and had the unique experience of seeing the Creek blanketed in snow.

I climbed in the Creek with Mike Cichon. I had met Mike at a belay traffic jam on Mickey Mouse Wall at Eldo, where we exchanged contact info after discovering we had several of the same objectives, and few weeks later received an email from him: "I'm looking for a partner—are you interested in climbing in the Creek Thanksgiving week?". Of course I was interested!

Mike and I spent our first day of climbing at The Wall, one of the more popular "new" crags and one of the few areas Mike had not been to yet. The Wall faces south, so it can be a pleasant place to climb in cooler weather, when the sun is out. Also, the Wall has a somewhat longer approach and rougher drive than other areas in the Creek, which Mike and I hoped would mean less crowded. But as luck would have it, a large group of about 20 climbers had also decided to climb up at The Wall that day, so we didn't escape the experience of Thanksgiving crowds at the Creek after all. But despite the rowdy crew monopolizing most of the area's best routes, Mike and I still climbed 7 great pitches.

That night it snowed 5 inches, a pretty abrupt change to the original weather forecasts for the week. So we drove to Moab, where we could hang out for the day. After cragging for a day in Moab and seeing how quickly the snow was sublimating in the dry air, we decided to risk the iffy forecast and return to the Creek to see if we could squeeze in one more day of climbing. And what a day of climbing it was! We climbed at Battle of the Bulge Buttress, which has one of the best concentrations of stellar 5.11 routes in the Creek, along with a very short approach and sunny aspect. Given the wall's popularity along with the climbable weather and the usual crowding during Thanksgiving week, we were (very pleasantly) surprised to be the only ones on the entire wall for the entire day. I guess everyone had vacated during the snowstorm and decided to do the turkey thing after all. It was a unique and magical experience to have some of the Creek's best splitters to ourselves, enjoying the area as it was in the 1970's. It was an ironic juxtaposition with our experience at the much more obscure The Wall just a few days previous, jockeying for position and sanity amongst lycra-clad climbers and barking dogs. Mike and I climbed seven routes, with five of them in the 5.11 range, which made for an awesome day of climbing at the Creek.

The following gives photos from our Creek adventure. Another Creek teaser trip....I'll have to come back for more.

Climbs / Photos

Photos:
Photo descriptions:
 
The Wall
(7 routes — Nov 25)
 
Area photos
Random photos from the day...
1.    
 
2.    
  3   
4.    
5.    
6.    
7.    
8.    

  

 
 

1. Looking back at the parking area for The Wall. Shortly after this photo was taken, half a dozen more cars showed up, foiling our plans to escape the Thanksgiving crowds.
2. I'll call this sort of photo a "Creek cragging lifestyle" photo. North Six Shooter in distance.
3. Another Creek cragging lifestyle shot.
4. And another.
5-6. I couldn't resist stopping to take some photos of this crag dog monopolizing the belay puffy.
7. The Wall. This photo was taken near the end of the day, when we were waiting for the climbers to leave the base of Run Like Hell (a popular 5.10 that had had parties on it all day) so we could get in one more climb before hiking out.
8. North and South Six Shooters below some mammatus clouds. Snow is on the way....
Climb
1
Nov 25
The Trial (5.10, 110'), The Wall
Lead: Steph; Follow: Mike          Size: Hands
1.    
2.    
1. Looking up from the base of the corner.
2. Looking down from the top of the route.

Climb
2
Nov 25
Which One's Pink (5.11-, 100'), The Wall
Lead: Mike; Follow: Steph          Size: Hands to #6 offwidth
1.    
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6.    
1. Sign at the base of the route. These signs are super convenient because it can be difficult at times to locate which splitter system is the one you are trying to climb!
2. The route follows the obvious wide splitter.
3. Racking up at the base. Between the two of us, I think we have enough gear to climb about anything at the Creek....
4. Mike starting up the route. The starting offwidth section was one of the route's cruxes.
5. Looking up the offwidth.
6. Upper section of route.

Climb
3
Nov 25
Circling Sky (5.10-, 60'), The Wall
Lead: Steph (+ toprope lap); Follow: Mike          Size: Fists to #5 offwidth
1.    
2.     
1. Looking up the route.
2. Looking down from the top of the route. The top of the route widens to #5-sized offwidth.

Climb
4
Nov 25
Dancing Queen (5.11+, 70'), The Wall
Lead: Mike; Follow: Steph          Size: Tips to #5 offwidth
1.    
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1. From tips to offwidth. We couldn't help but stop and climb it.
2. Another view, a bit further back.
3. Mike at the lower crux section.
4. Mike now at the cruiser hands section.
5. The offwidth crux section ahead. 
6. Sign at the base of the route.

Climbs
5&6
Nov 25
Dirty Girl (5.9, 35') and Dirty Woman (5.9, 35')The Wall
Lead: Steph; Follow: Mike          Size: Fingers to Hands / Varied Corner
1.    
2.     
1. The men in black go climbing.
2. There are two fun 5.9 routes here that share the same anchor: Dirty Girl climbs the crack, while Dirty Woman climbs the corner on the right. Fun leads and a quick way to get in two more pitches.
Climb
7
Nov 25
Run Like Hell (5.10, 85'), The Wall
Lead: Mike; Follow: Steph          Size: Wide hands
1.    
2.    
3.    
1. Sign at the base.
2. Looking up the route.
3. Final section before the anchor. I thought this was the route's crux.
 
 Snowstorm!
 
Snowy Indian Creek photos

Nov 26
We awoke to 5 inches of snow. No climbing today.... 
1.    
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10.      
1. We woke up to a winter wonderland at the Creek Pasture Camping area.
2. Using the picnic table as a gauge, there was about 5 inches of snow.
3. Mike making coffee. Awesome pj's!
4. The drive out.
5. North and South Six Shooters under a winter sky.
6. Yeah, don't think we will be climbing today.....
7. ....yeah, definitely not.....
8. Supercrack  area. Look, no crowds!
9. Supercrack. (I climbed this uber-classic splitter on my first trip to the Creek)
10. We drove to Moab and I hung out in the library all day working on my trip reports and doing some schoolwork. We had hopes that the sun would come and melt the snow off the rock enough that we could climb something the next day. Plus, I-70 had been closed due to an even heavier snowfall in Colorado and some weather-induced rockslides, so we couldn't easily get back to Boulder anyway. Fortunately, the Moab library is a nice place to spend a day if you cannot be climbing.


 
Battle of the Bulge Buttress
(7 routes — Nov 28)
 
Area photos
Random photos from the day...
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1. It's not often the Supercrack parking area is completely empty at 8am in the morning!
2. We were the only cars parked in the lot.
3. Message board at the Supercrack parking area.
4. Beginning the 10 minute approach to Battle of the Bulge Buttress. There was still some snow on the valley floor, but none up on the rock. Snow melts/sublimates quickly in the desert!
5. The typical rack for the day - mostly 1's, 2's, and 3's.
6. Mike's selection of big gear. If there are crowds hogging all the classic routes, there is usually no one climbing the offwidths, so best to come prepared!
7. This striking offwidth splitter is Big Baby, 5.11. We entertained the idea of climbing it but there were simply too many routes to climb and we didn't have time. 
8. What a spot to spend the day.
9. The entire day, and we are still the only ones parked in the lot. I guess everyone had vacated during the snowstorm and decided to do the turkey thing after all. It was a unique and magical experience to have the Creek to ourselves, experiencing the area as it was in the 70's, climbing some of the Creek's best splitters without having to jockey for position and sanity amongst lycra-clad climbers and barking dogs.
10. List of climbs for the day. Seven routes, with five of them 5.11's is a darn great day at Indian Creek!
11. Some tiny paw prints in the snow.

Climb
1
Nov 28
The Warm-Up (5.9, 40'), Battle of the Bulge Buttress
Lead: Steph; Follow: Mike          Size: Hands
1.    
2.    
1. This crack is a great warm up.
2. Looking down the route.

Climb
2
Nov 28
Our Piece of the Real Estate (5.11-, 110')Battle of the Bulge Buttress
Lead: Mike; Follow: Steph          Size: Hands
1.    
2.   
1. Mike on lead.
2. Splitter!

Climb
3
Nov 28
Crack Attack (5.11-, 90')Battle of the Bulge Buttress
Lead: Steph (+ toprope lap); Follow: Mike          Size: Varied to Hands
1.    
2.   
1. This route has lots of variety and fun movement.
2. More splitter crack!

Climb
4
Nov 28
Ruins Crack (5.11, 70')Battle of the Bulge Buttress
Lead: Mike; Follow: Steph          Size: Fingers
1.    
2.    
3.    
   
1. Mike styling the opening fingers layback sequence.
2. Rope scars under the anchor. Mostly from lowering. To avoid unnecessary wear on the rock and our rope, Mike and I had gotten into the habit of what we started calling a "Utah Counterweight Rappel" where the leader pulls up rope and raps down on a single strand with the belayer acting as a counterweight.
3. The route is named after the ruins of a Fremont Culture dwelling that lie just right of the start of the route.

Climb
5
Nov 28
The Jane Fonda Total Body Workout (5.11-, 130')Battle of the Bulge Buttress
Lead: Mike; Follow: Steph          Size: OW bombay to Hands
1.    
2.    
3.        
1. Looks like fun.
2. Mike beginning Jane Fonda's full body workout in the opening bombay. After this, it's pretty cruiser hands in the corner.
3. Cruiser corner climbing.

Climb
6
Nov 28
Railroad Tracks (5.10-, 50')Battle of the Bulge Buttress
Lead: Steph; Follow: Mike          Size: Fingers and Hands
1.    
2.    
3.    
1. Railroad Tracks climbs the twin cracks in to the top of the pillar in the center of the photo.
2. Looking up the route.
3. Mike climbing in the afternoon sun.

Climb
7
Nov 28
Quarter of a Man (5.11+, 120')Battle of the Bulge Buttress
Lead: Mike; Follow: Steph          Size: Hands
1.    
2.    
3.    
4.    
5.    
6.    
1. Looking up the corner.
2. Another photo looking up the corner. It's an enduro thin hands pitch.
3. Looking down the corner while following.
4. The fun finish.
5. The anchor.
6. Rope scars under the anchor.




INDIAN CREEK Spring Break 2020

MAR
22-27
2020
TR #: 400

Category: Utah       Elev: ~5,800 ft       Rock Type: Wingate Sandstone

Partner: Mark Thomas (Days 1-5);  Alex Haeger, Autumn Priestley, and Penny (Day 6)

A week of splitters while the world changed.

Intro

The third time I climbed at Indian Creek was over Spring Break 2020. For the first five days I climbed with my friend and offwidth aficionado Mark Thomas. For the last day, I met up with my friend Alex and his friend Autumn for what was to be two more days of cragging but turned into one pitch due to a freak snowstorm and a notice that San Juan County had been closed to leisure travel. 

The trip had a surreal undercurrent to it, due to the coronavirus COVID-19 outbreak that was sweeping over the globe. When I left Boulder, there were a few thousand confirmed cases of COVID-19 in the US, school had just transitioned into online mode, and "social distancing" was quickly becoming the catch phrase. But over the course of the week while I was blissfully climbing splitters in the Creek, the number of confirmed cases in the US bloomed to over 120,000, places all over the country (including back home in Boulder) were issued a "stay-at-home" mandate to try to flatten the epidemic curve, and by the final day of my trip San Juan county (where Indian Creek is located) itself had closed its doors to "leisure activity". Everyday life had changed a lot over the course of the week, but it had been nice to escape for a bit. 
(Graph on right from www.cdc.gov.)

Below is a list of routes and photos from my 6 days in the Creek.

Climbs / Photos

Photos:
Photo descriptions:
 
Battle of the Bulge Buttress
(7.5 routes — Mar 22)
 
Area photos
Random photos from the day...
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2.    

  
 
 
  
 
  
1-2. Supercrack parking area. Kind of uncrowded for a weekend abutting Spring Break. 
Climb
1
Mar 22
Railroad Tracks (5.10-, 50'), Battle of the Bulge Buttress
Lead: Steph; Follow: Mark          Size: Fingers and hands
1.    
2.       
1. First lead of the day. (Photo by Mark.)
2. Climbing is fun!
Climb
2
Mar 22

(starts above Railroad Tracks)
Mystery Machine (5.10, 150'), Battle of the Bulge Buttress
Lead: Mark; Follow: Steph          Size: Fists
1.    
2.    
3.    
1. Mark starting off Mystery Machine, which starts back in the chimney/slot feature.
2. Looking down the route. (Photo by Mark.)
3. Looking out through the giant slot.

Climb
3+
Mar 22

(1.5 routes, sort of)
The Moon Also Rises (5.11-, 110') + again with Finger Lickin' Good finish (5.11, 50')Battle of the Bulge Buttress
Lead: Mark; Follow: Steph          Size: OW (#5) / hands
1.    
2.    
3.    
4.    
1. Mark starting up  the route. Wide fun ahead.
2. We had 5 #5's and used them all.
3. Looking up Finger Lickin' Good finish.
4. Looking down Finger Lickin' Good.
Climb
4
Mar 22
Three Strikes You're Out (5.11, 90')Battle of the Bulge Buttress
Lead: Steph; Follow: Steph          Size: Thin hands in corner
1.    
2.    
3.      
   
1. The route climbs the obvious splitter in the corner.
2. Razor-cut thin hands splitter.
3. Looking down the route.


Climb
5
Mar 22
Swedin-Ringle (5.12-, 50')Battle of the Bulge Buttress
Lead: Friendly Norwegian guy; Follow: Steph          Size: Off-fingers to thin hands
1.    
2.    
3.      
1. A friendly Norwegian party leading the route. I happily accepted their offer to toprope the pitch.
2. Looking down the splitter.
3. Another view down.

Climb
6
Mar 22
The Jagged Wedge (5.10, 70')Battle of the Bulge Buttress
Lead: Mark; Follow: Steph          Size: Offwidth (#5-Valley Giant)
1.    
2.    
3.    
4.    
5.      
1. Mark in the Jagged Wedge.
2. More fun wideness.
3. A Valley giant was nice to have here. The crack widens as it goes back, making the gear a bit untrustworthy...
4. Looking down while following.
5. The anchor at the top.

Climb
7
Mar 22
The Cave Route (5.10+, 80')Battle of the Bulge Buttress
Lead: Steph; Follow: Steph          Size: Hands
1.    
2.    
3.    
1. The Cave Route climbs the splitter inside the cave. (Photo by Mark.)
2. Steph leading up the splitter. (Photo by Mark.)
3. 
Steph leading the crack. Photo by Mark. Wait, wasn't Mark belaying me? 
 
South Six Shooter
(3 routes — Mar 23)

 
Area photos
Random photos from the day...
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overlay.    
approachbeta1.    
approachbeta2.    
approachbeta3.    
approachbeta4.    
 
 
 
1. South and North Six Shooters from the road.
2. The 3 miles drive on Davis Road to the trailhead. We had expected this road to be pretty rough and that we would have to do some walking, but we made it easily to the parking area where the approach trail starts.
3. Gate on the road.
4. The large dirt parking area. The well-cairned trail up to South SIx Shooter starts just behind the car.
5. On the approach. Well-cairned trail. About 1 hour from car to base of South Face.
6. Getting closer. 
7. Another view of South Six Shooter.
8. At the base of the South Face. The Trade Route starts just around left, and directly past Mark are the Diagonal Crack and Offwidth, both of which we toproped after climbing the Trade Route.
9. View of North Six Shooter.
10. View of North Six Shooter. I really want to climb Lightning Bolt Crack....
11. A squall moved in that late afternoon/early evening. Safely back in the car drinking hot chocolate and planning the next day's destination.
overlay. Overlay of routes on South Face of South Six Shooter.
approachbeta1-4. Approach beta by Mark Thomas. Mark and I share an obsession over route overlays.
Climb
1
Mar 23
South Face, Trade Route (5.5-5.7, 2-3p), South Six Shooter
Lead: Steph; Follow: Mark          Size: Varied
1.    
2.    
3.    
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5.    
6.    
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11.    
12.      
1. Pitch 1.
2. Petroglyphs on the wall just left of Pitch 1.
3. Petroglyphs on the wall just left of Pitch 1.
4. Petroglyphs on the wall just left of Pitch 1.
5. Looking down Pitch 1.
6. A short splitter, either on Pitch 1 or 2 depending on how you pitch it out.
7. Mark on the easy traverse to below the two summit blocks.
8. Mark topping out on the Right Summit.
9. View from the Right Summit, looking north towards North Six Shooter.
10. Anchor on the Right Summit.
11. The Left Summit. A committing mantle is required here. Notice the bolt above the mantle. Too bad you cannot clip it before executing the mantle move....
12. Rope scars in the soft rock.
Climb
2
Mar 23
South Face, Angling Crack (5.10, 90'), South Six Shooter
Toprope: Steph          Size: Varied
1.   
1. The route follows the obvious diagonal crack system.
Climb
3
Mar 23
South Face, Offwidth (5.10, 90'), South Six Shooter
Toprope: Steph          Size: Offwidth (#4-#5)
1.    
2.     
1. The start of the pitch.
2. #4-sized...my nemesis!
 
Way Rambo Wall
(7.5 routes — Mar 24)

 
Area photos
Random photos from the day...
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1. The creek crossing on Beef Basin Road. There are stories of cars getting stuck here in high water.
2. We went for it. Not too bad.
3. We stopped after the creek crossing to eat breakfast and gear up in the sun. Mark's car wouldn't start (I suspect due to the creek crossing getting some water in the engine area...). Fortunately my car was just 1.5 miles away so I just got a nice morning jog out of it. 
4. On our way again, driving Beef Basin Road towards Way Rambo Wall (on the left in the shade still).
5. Way Rambo Wall.
6. Another view photo.
7. And another.
8. We didn't climb this 5.12 splitter (Slice and Dice) but it looks awesome. I'll be back!
9. Some petroglyphs Mark spotted. (Photo by Mark.)
10. Beginning the hike down in the evening light after another great day of cragging in the Creek.
11. Way Rambo Wall in evening light.
12. Parking area for Way Rambo Wall.
Climb
1
Mar 24
Rochambeau (5.9, 75'), Way Rambo Wall
Lead: Steph; Follow: Steph          Size: Hands in corner
1.      
1. The route climbs the corner. Fun stuff. Great warmup.
Climb
2
Mar 24
Fuzz (5.10, 115'), Way Rambo Wall
Lead: Steph; Follow: Steph          Size: Wide hands in corner
1.    
2.    
1. Steph leading Fuzz. (Photo by Mark. Obviously.)
2. Looking up Fuzz while leading. Fuzz is the corner on the right.
Climb
3
Mar 24
Chest Full of Kind (5.10, 45'), Way Rambo Wall
Lead: Steph; Follow: Steph          Size: Hands  in corner
1.    
2.    
3.    
4.     
5.    
1. Chest Full of Kind climbs the crack/corner on the right side of the arch (photo taken in the late afternoon when the route is in full sun. It was in the shade when we climbed it in the late morning.)
2. Below Chest Full of Kind. (Photo by Mark.)
3. Looking up at the route.
4. Steph leading Chest Full of Kind. (Photo by Mark. Obviously.)
5. A nice plaque at the base identifying the route. These lay at the base of many of the routes at Way Rambo Wall.
Climb
4
Mar 24
Way Rambo (5.12-, 100'), Way Rambo Wall
Lead: Steph; Follow: Steph          Size: Hands
1.    
2.    
3.      
1. Way Rambo is the obvious splitter. We must climb it.
2. Starting up the crack.
3. Higher up. #1-sized awesomeness.

Climb
5
Mar 24
Blue Sun (aka Fun in the Sun) (5.10-, 65'), Way Rambo Wall
Lead: Steph; Follow: Mark          Size: Big hands
1.    
2.    
3.    
  

1. Steph having fun in the sun. (Photo by Mark. Obviously.)
2. Photo of the crack taken on lead.
3. I toproped the corner to the left. I think this route is called Fix Your Tips. It was difficult, and I did not get the crux section so I did not count it as a route I climbed....

Climb
6
Mar 24
Way Nutter (5.9, 50'), Way Rambo Wall
Lead: Mark; Follow: Steph          Size: Offwidth (#4-#6)
1.    
2.    
3.    
4.    
1. Mark the offwidth king starting up Way Nutter.
2. #5 and #6 work well here.
3. Mark and his big cams.
4. Hero shot.
Climb
7
Mar 24
Renegades of Funk (aka Bernoulli Effect) (5.10, 65'), Way Rambo Wall
Lead: Steph;          Size: Fingers
1.    
2.    
3.    
4.    
5.     
1. The route starts in the back of the chimney/slot feature.
2. Looking up the route, which climbs the right side of the flake.
3. Looking down the route while leading.
4. Looking up the route while leading.
5. Me using both flake and opposing wall. (Photo by Mark. Obviously.)

 
Supercrack Buttress
(8 routes — Mar 25)

 
Area photos
Random photos from the day...
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1. Gassing up in Montcello. Blue gloves have become the norm these days....
2. Crag dogs.
3. A snack with a view.

Climb
1
Mar 25
Twin Cracks (59, 60'), Supercrack Buttress
Lead: Steph; Follow: Mark          Size: Hands
1.    
2.    
3.    
4.     
1. Twin Cracks is a great warm-up route.
2. Fun stuff.
3. Rope grooves near the anchor.
4. The wide 5.10 extension above Twin Cracks. We did not climb this but it looked interesting.
Climb
2
Mar 25
No Name Crack (5.10, 110'), Supercrack Buttress
Lead: Mark; Follow: Steph          Size: Wide hands in corner
1.    
2.   
3.    
1. No Name Crack climbs the corner.
2. Wide hand jams for days!
3. Looking down the corner. (Photo by Mark.)
Climb
3
Mar 25
Wild Works of Fire (5.10, 75'), Supercrack Buttress
Lead: Steph; Follow: Mark          Size: Hands
1.    
2.    
3.    
1. Wild Works of Fire climbs the straight in splitter. Fun route. 3am crack is the corner on the left, which we climbed after this.
2. Steph on lead. (Photo by Mark.)
3. Looking down the splitter.
Climb
4
Mar 25
3am Crack (5.10, 105'), Supercrack Buttress
Lead: Mark; Follow: Steph          Size: Wide hands in corner
1.    
2.   
1. Mark embarking on his lead of 3am Crack.
2. Looking down the corner. (Photo by Mark.)
Climb
5
Mar 25
Keyhole Flakes (5.10, 80'), Supercrack Buttress
Lead: Steph; Follow: Mark          Size: Varied
1.    
2.    
3.    
4.   
1. Looking up the route. The route climbs a crack through a varnished panel of rock.
2. Steph at what we thought was the technical crux section. Have to gun for it without placing gear. (Photo by Mark.)
3. The last bit before the anchor.
4. Looking down the splitter fists section.

Climb
6
Mar 25
Amaretto Pitch 1 (5.9+, 60'), Supercrack Buttress
Lead: Mark; Follow: Steph          Size: Hands to Offwidth (#5)
1.    
2.    
3.    
4.    
5.      
1. Pitch 1 climbs the corner to the offwidth exit. Pitch 2 (5.11) (which we did not climb) continues up the corner above. 
2. Shadow fun.
3. Mark's shadow placing a cam.
4. Some graffiti on the rock just right of Amaretto. At what point does defacing the rock become instead a historical landmark?
5. More graffiti.

Climb
7
Mar 25
Unnamed handcrack to left of Supercrack (5.9+, 30'), Supercrack Buttress
Lead: Steph; Follow: Mark          Size: Hands
1.   1. A shameless end-of-the-day pitch count bump. Rope bag for scale.
Climb
8
Mar 25
Unnamed offwidth to left of Supercrack (5.6, 30'), Supercrack Buttress
Lead: Mark; Follow: Steph          Size: Offwidth (#6)
1.    
2.   
1. Another shameless end-of-the-day pitch count bump. And enough gear to protect every foot.
2. A one cam lead!
 
North Six Shooter
(1 route — Mar 26)

 
Area photos
Random photos from the day...
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approachbeta1.    
approachbeta2.    
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approachbeta5.    
1. Driving towards North Six Shooter. The road is fine for a Subaru.
2. A rough section that is built up with rocks to make it passable. On the drive out we discovered this section could be avoided by taking a dirt road not far to the right (left on way in).
3. Park here. It's about 3.5 miles from the main road (rather than 2.5 as our guidebook said.) Find the first cairn and follow about 100 cairns all the way to the base of the route.
4. This photo was taken on the hike out. The trail meanders up through boulders and through a weakness in the limestone band behind me in the photo. Follow the cairns. (Photo by Mark.)
5. Weakness in the limestone band.
6. North Six Shooter. (We had planned to climb Lightning Bolt Cracks, but when we got to the base we bailed before we started up due to the high winds; the route was hard enough as it was, and we decided we didn't want the added difficulty of communication and insecurity the 40mph gusts would cause. Kudos to the party who climbed the route in these conditions! Instead, we went and climbed a single pitch route to the far left and then hiked out and squeezed in a few pitches at Battle of the Bulge Buttress).
7. North Six Shooter. Notice the cryptobiotic soil in the foreground.
8. Climbers starting up Pitch 1 of Lightning Bolt Cracks. 
9. Looking up the Lightning Bolt Cracks route. Climbers on Pitch 1.
10-11. Another view further back. Climbers now on Pitch 3. 
12. Cool rock features on the approach.
13. Cryptobiotic soil. These crusts are composed primarily of very small organisms that cannot be seen with the naked eye. There is a lot of this on the North Six Shooter approach. Be careful not to step on this special stuff.
14. Erosion.
15. Cairn and South Six Shooter.
approachbeta1-5. Approach beta by Mark Thomas. Mark and I share an obsession over route overlays.
Climb
1
Mar 26
Talk Dusty to Me aka South Face, Far Left (5.9+, 1p), North Six Shooter
Lead: Steph; Follow: Mark          Size: Wide hands
1.    
2.    
3.    
4.    
5.    
6.    
7.    
  
1. The route climbs the obvious splitter that heads straight up and then diagonals to the notch.
2. Steph starting up the pitch. (Photo by Mark.)
3. Steph leading the pitch. (Photo by Mark.)
4. Looking down from the top of the pitch.
5. The anchor at the top is two pounded pitons.
6. The anchor can be reinforced with a small nut and small cam.
7. Looking towards the summit towers of North Six Shooter from the top of the pitch.
 
Battle of the Bulge Buttress
(3 routes — Mar 26)
 
Area photos
Random photos from the day...
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1. A beautiful late afternoon to squeeze in a few pitches.
2. Looking up Stella, a 5.12 offwidth just left of the routes we did.
3. Mark making a gear list for his future lead of Etointimidate, another hard offwidth just left of Stella.
4. Hiking out in the evening sun after another great day of climbing the Creek.
5. A lone Sprinter van in the Supercrack parking lot. 
Climb
1
Mar 26
Elbow Vices (5.10, 90')Battle of the Bulge Buttress
Lead: Mark; Follow: Steph          Size: Offwidth
1.    
2.    
3.    
4.    
5.    
6.    
7.    
1. Mark-the-offwidth-king cruising up the body-width section.
2. Photo of the wide section. (Photo taken by Mark on lead.)
3. Mark hanging out in the body-width section.
4. The splitter hands corner above the wide section.  (Photo taken by Mark on lead.)
5. A view of the wide section, taken while toproping.
6. Steph  in the wide section. Not looking quite as comfortable as Mark did. (Photo by Mark.)
7. The wide section looks ready to swallow another climber alive.
Climb
2
Mar 26
Pigs in Space (5.10+, 115'), Battle of the Bulge Buttress
Lead: Steph; Follow: Mark          Size: Hands
1.    
2.    
3.     
1. Looking up the route.
2. Fun poddy crack.
3. Steph leading the route. (Photo by Mark.)

Climb
3
Mar 26
Sporty Spice aka New World Order (5.11a/b/c, 90')Battle of the Bulge Buttress
Toprope: Steph         Size: Finger layback
1.    
2.     
1. Etched route name at the base of the route.
2. Steph taking advantage of a quick toprope on Sporty Spice from the anchors of Pigs in Space. This route has some great 5.11 laybacking. 
(Photo by Mark.)
 
Critic's Choice
(1 route — Mar 27)
 
Area photos
Random photos from the day...
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1. Morning drive along HWY 191 through the Creek.
2. Driving towards Critic's Choice wall. Just a short section of 2wd dirt road.
3. Penny leading the way on the hike up to Critic's Choice.
4. Some fresh rockfall on the right side of the wall.
5. Hiking underneath the base of the wall towards Bunny Slope, the only route we climbed before we called it due to the inclement weather.

Climb
1
Mar 27
Bunny Slope (5.9+, 130'), Critic's Choice
Lead: Alex; Follow: Steph, Autumn          Size: Hands
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1. Looking up the stellar corner of Bunny Slope. 5.9's are rare in Indian Creek, and this is one of the best of the few there.
2.
 Alex starting up Bunny Slope.
3. The endless handcrack in corner.
4. Looking down the route.
5. Note: You should bring 2 ropes or an 80m rope to climb this  route. Or you end up in rope shenanigans like this! (Which were actually sort of fun, but non-ideal nevertheless.)
6. More shenanigans.
7. Penny thinks Autumn's cliff bar looks pretty yummy.

 
Canyonlands afternoon + Freak snowstorm + Notice to head home
 
Canyon-lands photos

Mar 27-28
Weather moved in and we decided climbing was over for the day. I drove up to Canyonlands to check it out. The best part of the afternoon was the stormy skies driving back to Indian Creek. That night a freak snowstorm hit, and a friendly sheriff stopped by with a notice that San Juan county was closed to leisure activity and out-of-state travellers due to the COVID-19 outbreak. Time to head home to Boulder and see what this lock-down is all about....
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1. The visitor center was closed due to the COVID-19 epidemic.
2. Canyonlands. The area is cooler than shown in my photo. 
3-5. Stormy skies on the drive back to Indian Creek.
6. Notice that San Juan County was closed to leisure activity and out-of-state travellers due to the COVID-19 outbreak. Along with the overnight snowfall, all signs point to heading home to Boulder....