(LIST OF CLIMBS + 2 "TRIP REPORTS")
Category: Utah 
Elev: ~4000 ft
Rock Type: Navajo sandstone (Wall Street), Wingate sandstone (River Road crags)
 
2014, 2019, 2020
 

MOAB AREA Cragging


In the Moab area, you can find climbs ranging from single-pitch roadside to 600' desert towers. Cragging provides a nice option when the weather is iffy/chilly or to fill a gap between tower climbs or Indian Creek days. This page just summarizes the cragging I've done in the Moab area.

Wall Street.
River Road.

The first time I really spent a day cragging near Moab was in November 2019, after an unforecasted snowstorm deposited 5 inches of snow on us in the Creek. We spent the day at Wall Street. A few weeks later, over winter break, I cragged for a day at River Road as I was passing through the area on my way to Arizona. 

Since I'm sure I'll crag on occasion in the Moab area between desert tower and Indian Creek climbing, I just keep a list of the climbs I've done there (on this page). Below the list, I've also included my original trip report from my first day of cragging at Wall Street.



ON THIS PAGE:

LINK
List of climbs I've done in Moab cragging locals
2019 trip report (1 day of cragging at Wall Street)
NOV
27
2019

  TR #: 385
2020 trip report (1 day of cragging at River Road)
JAN
3
2020

  TR #: 387
Other random photos from cragging in Moab



(Pitifully small)List of climbs I've done in Moab cragging locals

(Alphabetical order)
CLIMB DIFFICULTY

    =multi-pitch
AREA

Color-coded:
    =River Road
    =Wall Street
DATE CLIMBED

Color-coded: 
Spring
Summer
Fall
Winter
El Segundo 5.9+, 2p, trad River Road  Sept 13, 2014
Spear of Destiny 5.9, 1p, sport River Road  Jan 3, 2020
Terma 5.9, 3p, sport/trad River Road  Jan 3, 2020
Another Roadside Distraction 5.10b, trad Wall Street Nov 27, 2019
Astro Lad 5.11a, trad Wall Street Nov 27, 2019
Bad Moki Roof 5.9, trad Wall Street Nov 27, 2019
Flakes of Wrath 5.9, trad Wall Street Nov 27, 2019
Flakes of Wrath Direct 5.11b, trad (toprope) Wall Street Nov 27, 2019
Potash Bong Hit 5.10, trad (toprope) Wall Street Nov 27, 2019
Static Cling 5.11a, trad Wall Street Nov 27, 2019
Walk on the Wild Side 5.10 OW, trad Wall Street Nov 27, 2019

Original trip report for 1st visits to Wall Street and River Road....


November 2019 Trip Report
1 Day: Cragging at Wall Street

Date: November 27, 2019
Partner: Mike Cichon

Intro

After climbing on Where Have All the Wild Things Gone, Mike and I drove to Indian Creek, where we planned to spend the rest of Thanksgiving week. However, an unforecasted snowstorm deposited 5 inches of snow on us after our first day. So we drove back to Moab and cragged a day at Wall Street while we waited for the snow to melt in Indian Creek. Wall Street is a popular cragging area near Moab. And for good reason. The 500-foot cliff of Navajo sandstone towers above the Colorado River and UT 279, and there are more than 100 routes, both bolted face and cracks, ranging in difficulty from 5.4 to 5.12. With its sunny aspect, Wall Street is a great place to spend a cool day.

Climbs / Photos

1. Flakes of Wrath, Wall Street (5.9, trad)
2. Flakes of Wrath Direct, Wall Street (5.11b, trad (toprope))
3. Bad Moki Roof, Wall Street (5.9, trad)
4. Another Roadside Distraction, Wall Street (5.10b, trad)
5. Astro Lad, Wall Street (5.11a, trad)
6. Static Cling, Wall Street (5.11a, trad)
7. Potash Bong Hit, Wall Street (5.10, trad (toprope))
8. Walk on the Wild Side, Wall Street (5.10 OW, trad)

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1-3. The crags tower right off the road. The definition of roadside cragging. 
4. Flakes of Wrath.
5. Flakes of Wrath Direct.
6. Bad Moki Roof. The route busting out right under the roof is a 12d called Horizontal Mambo.
7. Mike leading Bad Moki Roof.
8-9. Deep rope scars in the soft Navajo sandstone. To avoid unnecessary wear on the rock and our rope, Mike and I had gotten into the habit of what we started calling a "Utah Counterweight Rappel" where the leader pulls up rope and raps down on a single strand with the belayer acting as a counterweight.
10. The two parallel corners are Another Roadside Distraction (left) and Astro Lad (right). We climbed both. Both were excellent.
11. Another Roadside Distraction.
12. Mike cruising up Astro Lad.
13. Astro Lad.
14. Looking down Astro Lad. 
15. Parked at Static Cling, racking up.
16. Static Cling.
17. Potash Bong Hit, a fun toprope off the anchors at the top of Static Cling. The flake is somewhat hollow so hence the name of the route.
18. Mike climbing Potash Bong Hit.
19. This offwidth is called Walk on the Wild Side. Pro  to a #7 cam. Mike also placed a couple of Big Bros (not necessarily needed, but we had them so why not).
20. Mike starting up Walk on the Wild Side.
21. Looking up the offwidth of Walk on the Wild Side.
22. Looking down the offwidth of Walk on the Wild Side.
23. View down canyon. It's a really pleasant setting by the river.
24. View up canyon.


January 2020 Trip Report
1 Day: Cragging at River Road

Date: January 3, 2020
Partner: Rob Dillon

Intro

I was desperate to climb something during my winter break, and weather looked sunny (albeit chilly) in Moab. Moab local Rob Dillon responded to my mountainproject post. Our plans to climb in the Creek were a bit too optimistic for the sub-freezing temperatures and cloudy skies, and we ended up cragging just a half day at River Road. We managed two routes: (1) Terma, a 3-pitch 5.9 to the rim whose first two pitches are bolted and (2) Spear of Destiny, a unique and fun 1-pitch 5.9 route climbing the chimney behind a detached pillar, with bolts for protection. With the winter conditions, we had the entire River Road to ourselves. I drove to Arizona the next day to find climbable temperatures.

Climbs / Photos

1. Terma, River Road (5.9, 3p, sport/trad)
2. Spear of Destiny, River Road (5.9, 1p, sport)

Photos:
Photo descriptions:
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1. Approach to Terma (photo taken at end of the day when the sun actually came out to tease us for a few minutes).
2. Terma follows the ramp feature in three pitches to the rim (photo taken at end of the day when the sun actually came out to tease us for a few minutes).
3. Shoeing up at the base of Terma. It is not quite a warm day.
4. Pitch 1 of Terma. Follow the bolts.
5. Pitch 2 of Terma. Follow more bolts.
6. Nice bolted anchors on the route. Sling evidently installed at the same time as the extra bolt.
7. Rob doing jumping jacks to keep warm.
8. Pitch 3 of Terma. This is a gear-protected pitch (the previous two are sport-bolted).
9. View north from the top of Terma.
10. On top of Terma.
11. More jumping jacks. 
12. Next, we headed over to Spear of Destiny, which climbs the chimney between the main wall and the obvious detached tower a few hundred feet to the left of Terma.
13. Spear of Destiny climbs the chimney.
14. We found the summit register on the ground. Guess the wind blew it off of the top of the tower.
15. Rob starting up the chimney.
16. Another chimney photo.
17. And another.
18. And another. Chimneys are great for photography.
19. View south from top of the Spear of Destiny.
20. After the two routes, we returned to the car. We drove up to check out the conditions on Castleton and the Rectory.
21. The trailhead for Castleton is quite a peaceful spot to camp in the winter.

Some random photos from other days of cragging in Moab area...

Color coded by area:
   =Wall Street          =River Road Crags          =Xxx