(SHORT REPORTS)
 
1994 - 2005
 
Categories: Washington and Wyoming

CLIMBING WITH PARENTS

OVERHANGING Tower, MARTIN Peak, SAHALE Mountain, SPIRE Point, Mount BAKER, WHATCOM Peak, PRUSIK Peak


This page features some "short reports" from some alpine climbs I did as a kid with my parents before I started climbing on my own around 2006, and started this website. These reports do not give a wide photo selection like most of my climbing trip reports, but they do provide some route beta and interesting details, and are special to me for nostalgic reasons. 



ON THIS PAGE:

ROUTE/LINK DIFFICULTY DATE CLIMBED

Color-coded:
Spring
Summer
Fall
Winter
Overhanging Tower. NE Ridge 
Cirque of the Towers, Wyoming
4th to 5.2
JULY
21
1994

Martin Peak, from Royal Basin 
Olympic Mountains, Washington
3rd
AUG
?
2001

Sahale Mountain, South Slope 
North Cascades, Washington
3rd
AUG
?
2002

Spire Point, East Face from Spire Col 
North Cascades, Washington
4th and low 5th
AUG
2
2003

Mount Baker, Coleman-Deming Glacier 
North Cascades, Washington
glacier slog
JUNE
14-15
2004

Whatcom Peak, south side 
North Cascades, Washington
3rd
JULY
24
2005

Prusik Peak, West Ridge 
Enchantments, North Cascades, Washington
5.7, 6-7 pitches
AUG
4
2005


OTHER TRIP REPORTS CONTAINING PARENTS:

My parents appear in some of my more recent trip reports too! Here are some links to adventures my parents have joined me on: 

Cirque of the Towers, Wyoming
OVERHANGING Tower 
Route: NE Ridge (4th to 5.2)       

Trip Report #: 1
This photo was taken just after my first technical alpine climb, of Overhanging Tower (behind us on the left). From left to right: Matt, my mom Sue, my dad Marty, and me (11 yrs old).
Date: July 21, 1994
Partners: Marty Abegg, Sue Abegg, Matt Teevan
Rock Type: Granite
Summit elevation: 12,164 ft
Brief trip report: Until we moved to British Columbia in 1995, my family was living in the Midwest. Every summer we came out west to enjoy the mountains my parents had backpacked and climbed in during their early married life. In 1994, my parents, my sister and I (9 and 11 years old), and two friends piled into our van and drove out to Wyoming, where we backpacked in the Wind Rivers for two weeks. This trip brought us through the amazing Cirque of the Towers area. My parents—fondly remembering the climbing days of their past—decided it would be fun to climb one of the moderate routes in the Cirque, and invited me to come along. They chose Overhanging Tower, a low class 5 peak in the heart of the Cirque peaks. This was my first alpine climb (my dad even let me lead a 15-ft pitch), and I loved it. I didn’t get the chance to climb again for several years, but this early climb set the stage for a future of mountain adventuring!

FUTURE TRIP REPORTS FOR THE CIRQUE OF THE TOWERS:


Olympic Mountains, Washington
MARTIN Peak Route: from Royal Basin (3rd)     

Trip Report #: 2
En route to summit Martin Peak.
Date: August 2001
Partners: Marty Abegg, Ryan Chase
Rock Type: Obducted oceanic crust
Summit elevation: 7,638 ft
Brief trip report: I climbed this peak with my dad and a family friend on a family backpacking trip to Royal Basin. My parents had climbed dozens of peaks in the Olympics during the first few years of their marriage (late 70's). Then they started climbing in the Cascades and left the Olympics behind. This trip was a walk down memory alley for them.

North Cascades, Washington
SAHALE Mountain Route: South Slope (3rd)     

Trip Report #: 3
On top of Sahale.
Date: August 2002
Partners: Marty Abegg, Sue Abegg
Rock Type: Gneiss
Summit elevation: 8,700 ft
Brief trip report: My I climbed this peak while on a short backpacking trip from Cascade Pass, up Sahale Arm, and over into Boston Basin. If I remember correctly, we were trying to climb Boston Peak, and ended up on top of Sahale. It's a beautiful area back there.  

North Cascades, Washington
SPIRE Point Route: East Face from Spire Col (4th to low 5th)     

Trip Report #: 5
Climbing up Spire Point from Spire Col.
Date: August 2, 2003
Partners: Marty Abegg, Jenny Abegg
Rock Type: Gneiss
Summit elevation: 8,264 ft
Brief trip report: My family (dad, mom, sister, and I) backpacked the Ptarmigan Traverse from July 29 to Aug 3, 2003 (this is one of my favorite backpacks I have done, click link for a few photos). On Day 5 of the traverse, we traversed Dana Glacier to Spire Col. My dad, sister, and I decided to scramble up Spire Point rising up to the west of the col. This was a fun Class 4/low Class 5 climb. It was the first climb that my dad, sister, and I had done together, and my third technical rock climb ever (my first was Overhanging Tower in the Wind Rivers of Wyoming in the Summer of 1994, when I was 11 years old, and my second was in the Sawtooths in Idaho in 1998, although I can’t seem to find any photos from that climb). The climb up Spire Point was blocky and took a couple of hours to get to the summit.

North Cascades, Washington
Mount BAKER 
Route: Coleman-Deming Glacier      

Trip Report #: 6
Mount Baker from Welcome Pass. The Coleman-Deming route is on the right under the Black Buttes.
Route: Coleman-Deming Glacier
Date: June 14-15, 2004
Partners: Marty Abegg, Sue Abegg, Jenny Abegg
Rock Type: Andesite
Summit elevation: 10,781 ft
Brief trip report: This was a fun family adventure, climbed by my dad, mom, sister, and myself. In the late-spring conditions, the route was straightforward, especially under the sunny skies we were fortunate to have. It was mainly a long snow-slog. The 360° view from the top of the snow-capped North Cascades was well worth the climb.

FUTURE TRIP REPORTS FOR MOUNT BAKER:


North Cascades, Washington
WHATCOM Peak 
Route: South side (3rd)       

Trip Report #: 10
Whatcom Peak (left) and Mt. Challenger (right, 8,207 ft) from Easy Ridge. Perfect Pass – which forms the saddle between – was where I ascended Whatcom from.
Date: July 24, 2005
Partners: (solo)
Rock Type: Granodiorite
Summit elevation: 7,574 ft
Brief trip report: My mom and I did a backpack trip up Easy Ridge, with tentative plans to climb Mt. Challenger. I had been high on the Challenger Glacier with my dad in July 2002, but we had not had time to climb the final rock pitch to the top. From any direction, the approach into Challenger is quite difficult. The Easy Ridge approach was no exception. The ridge itself was easy, but navigating our way over to Perfect Pass (the saddle between Whatcom Peak and Mt. Challenger from where you can get onto the Challenger Glacier) was not fun. There is a deep gully (called the "Perfect Impass") that is apparently possible to cross with some fixed protection and confident climbing skills, but my mom did not feel comfortable doing this, so we made a 1000+ ft descent to bypass the gully, and then did some horrendous bushwhacking to get up to Perfect Pass. By the time we got to the pass, it was too late to climb Challenger, so we relaxed in the meadows enjoying the view onto the vast Challenger Glacier. While my mom was napping, I decided to run up Whatcom Peak to the north of the pass. It was mainly a snow climb with a bit of rock scrambling at the top. It took 45 minutes to reach the summit from the pass. In July 2007, I successfully climbed Mt. Challenger.

FUTURE TRIP REPORTS FOR WHATCOM PEAK:

Enchantments, North Cascades, Washington 
PRUSIK Peak 
Route: West Ridge (5.7, 6-7 pitches)      

Trip Report #: 11
South face of Prusik Peak reflected in Gnome Tarn. The frequently climbed west ridge is on the left.
Date: August 4, 2005
Partners: Marty Abegg, Sue Abegg, Jenny Abegg
Rock Type: Granodiorite
Summit elevation: 8,000 ft
Brief trip report: This was another family adventure. My dad, mom, sister, and I did a 6 day backpack trip through the Enchantments, with one of our goals to climb Prusik Peak. We had only one rack of climbing gear, so I led the route, with my sister following behind me and unclipping from the gear, and my dad leading behind her, clipping his rope back into the gear. I think this is the only technical climb my whole family has done together, and we had quite the adventure: my mom climbed it in her running shoes, my dad got his wedding ring stuck in a crack and broke his finger getting it out, my sister sobbed in (but made it up!) the chimney variation I accidentally chose at the top, and I had the opportunity to prusik on Prusik when we got our rope stuck on the descent. But all in all, the route was fun and moderate, with solid rock and great views. We descended by rappelling down the north face with a single rope.

FUTURE TRIP REPORTS FOR PRUSIK PEAK:
Comments