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JULY 30
 
to AUG 1
2010
BEAR MTN, North Buttress (IV, 5.10, 7p of class 5)

Category: Washington      Trip Report #: 95
Partner: Aaron Clifford
Elev: 7,931 ft        lat/long:
48.93070, -121.34080

The last of Fred Beckey's big projects in the North Cascades. What a climb!

The left side of this page provides a trip report and lots of photos from the climb.

The initial plan was to climb the NE buttress of Mt. Goode, but when the forecast didn't look Goode, Aaron and I tossed about some ideas for a worthy alternative climbing objective. Weather still looked decent further north. How about the impressive north buttress of Bear Mountain? The 2000-ft steep north face of Bear has some of the best and most intimidating alpine rock climbing in the Cascades. Better yet, getting there requires a passport and a strenuous bushwhack.

The north face of Bear has several difficult routes. The north buttress was our destination. The classic climbing on the steep upper buttress can be gained in 2 ways: via Beckey and Fielding's 1967 route up a glacier couloir or via Kearney and Knight's 1980 direct start which climbs seven difficult (5.10) pitches on the lower buttress. (An interesting tidbit of history: The North Buttress was Beckey's last big project in the North Cascades. And Mark Fielding was AWOL from the ARMY at the time of the first ascent; he turned himself in after completing this climb.)

Our initial goal was to climb the buttress via the direct route, but after some discussion at camp the night before the climb, we decided to use Beckey and Fielding's route to the upper buttress so that we could enjoy these stellar pitches without being pressed for time or tired out by the lower pitches. However, as we ascended the glacier couloir the next day, dodging falling rocks and traversing exposed pebble-strewn slabs, we looked longingly at the lower buttress, wishing we had not left our big cams back at basecamp. In retrospect, our decision to climb the quicker couloir was fortunate, as it began to rain just as we finished our climb and the rock became surprisingly slippery - we would not have wanted to climb the last few pitches of the upper buttress (particularly the slabby 5.9 pitch) in these conditions.

Aaron and I had a great time on this climb. It was the first time I had climbed with Aaron, and I hope we can get together for some more climbing in the future. The climbing was some of the best I've encountered in Cascades alpine terrain. I think both of us are inspired to return some day to climb the direct route. We joked that if I made my trip report really good, then perhaps enough people would go climb Bear and trample down a nice path through the grueling bushwhacky approach!

Below is a pitch-by-pitch description (with photos of each pitch) of the amazing North Buttress of Bear Mtn.


Approach
~9 miles, 4500' up, 9 hours

The trailhead is at the end of the Chilliwack Lake Road (accessed off HWY 1 east of Vancouver, BC). There is a gate and bridge here.

Walk the final 1.5 miles of road to the south end of Chilliwack Lake and get on the Chilliwack River Trail. The trail is pretty good and well-flagged until it crosses the US border at around 1.7 miles. Then it becomes quite overgrown (hasn't been maintained since the 70's probably), and is at times nearly impossible to find. We often found ourselves shwacking through some pretty dense thickets. It took us 5 hours to get to Bear Creek, about 6 miles from the trailhead.

Just after crossing Bear Creek, ascend steep timber eastward. At the treeline climb through huckleberry bushes before coming to the meadowland above Ruta Lake. It took us 2.5 hours to get here. Continue along the divide, then traverse the south slopes around Points 6592 and 6822, crossing a rock rib to a saddle (6480'). There is nice camping in this area. It took us 9 hours to get to here from the car. This approach definitely rivals any approach into the Picket Range.



North Buttress Pitch-by-Pitch
IV, 5.10, 2200' up, 7 roped pitches (5.7-5.10), 10.5 hours camp-to-camp

Camp to base of route: <1 mile, 1000’ loss, ~250' gain, 1.5 hours
Descend snow/talus NE from the 6840' saddle to get below the North Face buttress at about 5500'. Traverse talus/snow to the base of the glacier couloir just left of the North Buttress (~5700').



Glacier couloir: ~1100' gain, 3.5 hours
Climb snow and debris-covered 4th class slabs up the glacier couloir, eventually getting onto a 3rd class ramp that leads to the buttress crest. We found this area to be very loose and unprotectable, and had several close calls with falling rocks. We regretted our decision not to climb the cleaner (albeit harder) direct north buttress! (Although, in retrospect, given the rain that moved in just as we reached the summit, it was overall a good thing we took the quicker approach up the glacier couloir.)




Upper Buttress, Pitch 1: 5.9, 150'
Steep corner just left of crest. This was superb climbing. Perhaps it was our heavy packs, but Aaron and I felt this pitch deserves a nice little "+" tacked onto the rating.



Upper Buttress, Pitch 2: 5.6, 120'
Fun climbing on the crest.



Upper Buttress, Pitch 3:
5.8, 120'
Steep rock left of crest (5.8) to a nice  ledge below an off-width crack (1967 party bivied on this ledge).



Upper Buttress, Pitch 4:
5.10a, 120'
Off-width crack with nice positive crimpy holds. This was not as bad as we thought it would be with our packs on, and we actually found it easier than the first pitch. (An alternative to the off-width is to go right along the buttress crest on exposed 5.8.)


Upper Buttress, Pitch 5:
5.7, 120'
Blocks and cracks on the crest to below a steep step.


Upper Buttress, Pitch 6:
5.9, 150'
Airy face climbing on the crest to a set of twin cracks. The exposure on this pitch is exhilarating, but the holds are perfectly positioned. (An alternative is to down climb and tension-traverse down and right into a 4th class chimney that leads back to the crest above the step, but this looked kind of tricky.)


Upper Buttress, Pitch 7:
5.7, 150'
Blocky climbing to the top of the buttress. From here, it is a scramble to the summit.


To Summit:
4th, 200', 4.5 hours from glacier couloir
From the top of the north buttress, it is a short blocky scramble to the summit. It had started to rain, and the rock was a bit slippery, so we opted to simulclimb instead of solo. It took us 4.5 hours to climb the upper buttress to the summit. This summit doesn't see much traffic, but we discovered that 3 parties had signed the summit register since 2006.



Descent:
3rd/4th, 1 hour
The descent is direct and straightforward, and took us about 1 hour. From the summit, descend westward, keeping on the south side of the ridge. Stay left until able to down-climb a short 3rd class rock gully leading north and back to camp.





Camp

We camped in a meadowy area below the saddle on the NW Ridge, at around 6400'. It was a beautiful spot, where running water, soft heather, twinkling stars, and bloodthirsty mosquitoes abounded.

The right side of this page provides a general overview and photo overlays for the route, as well as our trip itinerary.

General Overview

Route Info

Summit: Bear Mtn
Location: North Cascades National Park
Route: North Buttress
Difficulty: IV, 5.10, 7p class 5
Summit Elevation: 7,931 ft
Elevation gain: ~2,200' of climbing
Approach: Chilliwack River "Trail" (starts in BC and goes south across the border) to Bear Creek High Route to camp near saddle on NW Ridge. (It is also possible to access the Chilliwack River Trail from the south (via Hannegan Pass) but this adds significantly to the approach distance.)
Descent: 3rd class back to camp
Time: 3 days for us (some people do it in 2!)

Elevations

Chilliwack River Trailhead: ~2,000 ft
Bear Creek Camp Turnoff: 2,300 ft
Camp near Saddle: <6,480 ft
Base of Buttress: ~5,700 ft
Summit: 7,931 ft

Gear

60m single rope, slings, rack to 3" (doubles on 0.5, 0.75, 1, 2), nuts, ice axe, crampons, camping gear

Permits

Permits are required to camp in North Cascades National Park. Kind of hard to do if you approach from Canada though....

Map



Route Overlays






Our Itinerary

Day 1 (9 hrs):
  • Leave Seattle at 4AM, drive north into Canada, and park at the Chilliwack River TH (2000') on Chilliwack Lake (BC). Start hiking at around 8:30am.
  • Shwack south across the border along the Chilliwack River "Trail" to Bear Creek Camp (2300'), 5 hours.
  • Ascend the Bear Creek High Route (no trail) to camp at saddle (6480') on the NW Ridge of Bear, 4 hours.
Day 2 (10.5 hrs):
  • Leave camp and descend gully to toe of North Buttress, 1.5 hours.
  • Climb North Buttress route to summit, 8 hours.
  • Descend to camp, 1 hour.
Day 3 (9 hours):
  • Hike back out to car
Note 1: Some climbers have been known to climb and hike out in one LONG day to make this a 2 day adventure.
Note 2: It is also possible to access the Chilliwack River Trail from the south (via Hannegan Pass) but this adds significantly to the approach distance.


Stats

TH to camp: ~9 miles, 4500’ gain, 9 hours
Camp to base of route:
<1 mile, ~1000’ loss, ~250' gain, 1.5 hours
North buttress to summit: 2200’ gain, 8 hours
Summit to camp: <1 mile, 1450’ loss, 1 hours
Camp to TH: ~9 miles, 4500’ loss, 9 hours






I think we oughta take some of these people
Put 'em on a boat, send 'em up to Bear Mountain
For a picnic.

-Bob Dylan, "Talking Bear Mountain Picnic Massacre Blues"



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