XXX
X
20XX

MAMIE Peak Route: Ellation (5.11a or 5.10 A0, 700', 8p)

Category: Washington       Trip Report #: 326
Partner: Doug Hutchinson
Rock Type: Granite
Summit Elev: 6,108 ft

xxx


TRIP REPORT TEMPLATE
for when I climb this route
















INTRO


Ellation is a 700-foot 8-pitch route up the center of Mamie Peak. Where is Mamie Peak? you might ask (since I did when I first heard about the route). I had actually passed right under Mamie Peak several times, never even looking up to notice it. The tiered walls of Mamie Peak are visible from the popular trail to a Pass, just a few minutes after leaving the trailhead. Ellation is relatively recent to the area, being put up in 2009 by Darin Berdinka and Matt Alford. Creating this route required quite a bit of cleaning, but the result was a high-quality route with a quick approach, doable in a casual day.

Ellation features stellar and sustained 5.10 face, friction, and crack climbing with a couple of 5.11 moves for added challenge: a techy three pitch slab leads to five spectacular and exposed pitches up the center of a knob- and crack-riddled buttress. Protection is generally excellent and most hard moves can be pulled through if need be. This is a great "almost alpine" rock climb. Elation is similar in nature to Darrington climbing. But the view is even better.

The following page gives a route overlay and some photos from the climb.






MAP


OVERLAY



PITCH BY PITCH PHOTOS

Photos:
Photo descriptions:
Approach
Climbers' path up to base of wall just after start of Hannegan Pass Trail, ~1 hour from car.

1. xxx
2. xxx
3. xxx
4. xxx
5. xxx
6. xxx
7. xxx
8. xxx
9. xxx
10. xxx
11. xxx

12. xxx
13. xxx
14. xxx
15. xxx
16. xxx
17. xxx
18. xxx
19. xxx
20. xxx
21. xxx

22. xxx
23. xxx
24. xxx
25. xxx
26. xxx
27. xxx
28. xxx
29. xxx
30. xxx
31. xxx

32. xxx
33. xxx
34. xxx
35. xxx
36. xxx
37. xxx
38. xxx
39. xxx


Pitch 
1
5.8. Follow bolted grooves and flakes leading to a short crack section and a spacious ledge.

2. xxx

Pitch 
2
5.10-. Climb the right side of a flake, then follow a slanting thin crack up to more face moves and a bolted belay.

3. xxx

Pitch 
3
5.10+. Power up right-leaning cracks and seams (bolted) to a shallow groove and friction moves to gain the large ledge. Scramble up and right via a short gully to reach the large wall above.

4. xxx

Pitch 
4
5.10. Start from a left-trending ledge. Climb nearly straight right with amazing knobs and face holds across well-bolted terrain.

2. xxx

Pitch 
5
5.9. Head up easier crack and face climbing in a shallow right-facing feature to a short bolted layback just prior to the belay.

2. xxx

Pitch 
6
5.10-. Climb a beautiful clean 5.7 ramp leading up to a short bolted crux section beneath the belay.

2. xxx

Pitch 
7
5.10+. Pad up sustained 5.10 friction climbing into a short corner, followed by two more bolts and easier face climbing.

2. xxx

Pitch 
8
5.11a or 5.10 A0. Climb steeper bolted face moves up into a crack and past a short overlap (crux) before gaining a left-facing corner which slabs out onto the top of the wall.

2. xxx

Top!
Yay!

2. xxx

Descent
Rap route with single 70.

2. xxx