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PRUSIK Peak Route: Der Sportsman (5.11d/12a, 700', 6p)

Category: Washington      Trip Report #3xx
Partner: xxx
Rock Type: Granodiorite
Summit Elev: 
8,000 ft

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TRIP REPORT TEMPLATE
for future trip report


Photo overlay for Der Sportsman on Prusik Peak.

Route overlays for the major documented routes on Prusik Peak. The photo is an aerial photo that I took in April 2013 on a flight with John Scurlock. 


This trip report marks the 7th route I've done on Prusik Peak, and 9th time to the summit (I've repeated two routes). A summary of all of the climbs I have done on Prusik is here.


INTRO

I had done all the major routes on Prusik Peak except one: Der Sportsman. This route features steep, splitter crack systems linked by airy, committing sequences on pitch after pitch of perfect, white granite. Der Sportsman was originally put up by Brook Sandahl in the 1990's, forgotten, and then unearthed in 2008 when Leavenworth local Sol Wertkin saw a picture of the route on a Metolius catalog and mined Brooke for beta (here's a link to Sol's second ascent report.). Rated 11d/12a, Der Sportsman is at the edge of my climbing abilities. But being a mostly-crack route, it is a good style for me to push the grade on.

It had been a year and one day since last year's car to car climb of Prusik (via the classic Beckey-Davis route). Since it takes a year to forget how long the approach to Prusik is, I was good to go. We decided to go with the Snow Lakes approach (about 11 miles and 6000+ feet), which is longer but more gradual than the Aasgard Pass approach (about 10 miles and 4200+ feet), reasoning that the Snow Lakes approach would be easier to put in headphones and listen to a good auiobook or podcast or music.

The following page contains a trip report for this climb.

SOME TIME STATS

   • Car to base (via ___ approach): x:xx
    Climb Der Sportsman: x:xx
    Top back to basex:xx
    Base to car: x:xx
   • Total car to car: xam to x:xxpm = x.x hours


ROUTE OVERLAY



PITCH BY PITCH PHOTOS

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Photo descriptions:
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Pitch 
1
5.11d, 45m. Begin in a left-trending hand- and finger-crack system, which is 5.8/5.9 past flakes and cracks to where the crack thins,. A 5.11- move leads to the base of a wide stem-box. Commit to a wide stemming and then layback the right side of the feature. Two bolts and a fixed wire guard the anchors at a hanging stance.

2. xxx

Pitch 
2
5.11, 30m. Work a few meters up the corner above and cut right across the face to an arete and into a crack below a piton. Continue up and then hard right through a knobby crux. Clip a bolt and pull around the arete to the right and onto the slab. Above the left is a seam with a bolt about 20' up. This is off route. Stem further right to a bolt and move right on knobs to the base of an offset tips crack with a pin at the top. Go up this and belay on a ledge with bolts.

3. xxx

Pitch 
3
5.10d, 35m. Move left into the obvious flake/crack and jam stellar 5.10 terrain up a corner to a large ledge, gear anchor required.

4. xxx

Pitch 
4
5.10c, 30m. Jam the crack above and left for several meters, then switch into the system to the right whcih is followed up, then right to the top of a small pillar, where a pin and gear provide a belay.

2. xxx

Pitch 
5
5.10b, 30m. Climb the short corner above/left to a brief crux, moving up and right to a slab. There are two belay bolts and a decent stance here, but continue past a bulge and build a gear anchor at a higher stance on a small ledge with a bolt on the left.

2. xxx

Pitch 
6
5.11c, 30m. Step left, pass a bolt, and climb the off-size splitter (low crux) which becomes perfect hands and leads into a chimney with a loose block in the back, before topping out on the left. Originally rated 12a, this pitch seems easier than Pitch 1.

2. xxx

Top!
Yay!

2. xxx

Descent
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PHOTOS

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Photo descriptions:
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Climb
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Descent
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Photos:
Photo descriptions:
Approach 
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Climb 
   
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Descent 
   
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Route X (5.x, xp)
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