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SALISH PEAK, Flight of the Falcon (5.10b/c, 700')

Category: Washington      Trip Report #: ??
Partner: ??
Elev: 5,680 ft

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INTRO

According to Blake Herrington's new Cascades Rock guidebook, "Flight of the Falcon" (5.10b or 5.9 A0) on the steep south face of Salish Peak is one of the range's 15 best routes and one of Darrington's steepest lines. This route was established in 2006 by Chris Greyell and Todd Karner. This route starts at the very toe of the face and follows a series of ramps, corners, and short steep crux sections up and left. The route reportedly features impeccable granite. And it has bolted belays up to the 7th pitch.

The only disadvantage of this climb is a longish approach (4-5 hours to the base from the car), but it is possible to absorb some of this approach by climbing “Center Stage” (11a, 1000') on Roan Wall on the way up to Salish Peak. We wanted to make sure we climbed Flight of the Falcon, so we did not do this link up. Next time!

There are two descent options. Option 1 is to rappel the route (double ropes) from the top of Pitch 7. Option 2 is to climb two more pitches to the top and walk off. Option 2 seems to be the clear winner—more rock climbing, avoids rappels wth a mellow walkoff, means you only have to carry one rope, plus you tag the summit. 


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Approach map (click image for 8.5x11 size for printing):

PITCH-BY-PITCH


Photos:
Photo descriptions:
Approach 
~6 miles, 3500 ft gain, 4-5 hours
a.    
a. xxx
Pitch 
1
5.10b, 45m
1a.    
1a. xxx

Pitch 
2
5.9, 50m
2a.    
2a. xxx

Pitch 
3
5.10b, 30m
3a.    
3a. xxx

Pitch 
4
5.9, 35m
4a.    
4a. xxx

Pitch 
5
5.9, 30m
5a.    
5a. xxx
Pitch 
6
5.10b/c, 30m
6a.    
6a. xxx

Pitch 
7
5.8+, 35m
7a.    
7a. xxx

Pitch 
8
5.8+, 35m
8a.    
8a. xxx

Pitch 
9
5.2
9a.    
9a. xxx

Summit 

5,680 ft
a.    
 
a. xxx
Descent 

rap from top of Pitch 7 with 2x60m ropes OR climb to top and walk off left/west.
a.    
 
a. xxx