The Route
It was the weekend before spring quarter final exams at UW. I study better under a time crunch, so my friend Sara and I headed up to climb Serpentine Arete (5.8) on Dragontail.
We climbed the route in a day from the car. We left the Stuart Lake trailhead at 4:30am, got to Colchuck Lake by 6:30am, were climbing the rock by 8:30am, summited at 2pm, made it back to the lake at 4:45pm, were back to the car by 6:45pm, and were back to Seattle by 10pm. Time to study!
We simulclimbed most of the route, and had a blast. Here are some photos and brief descriptions for this trip report.
Photos
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Looking up the route from the base. We started just right of the orange slabs at the top of the terminal morraine above Colchuck Lake.
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The first pitch, short 5.7ish pitch to get to class 3 ramps.
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Easy scrambling for much of the route.
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Sara leading the first of the 2 "crux" pitches mid-route, a 5.8 crack. These were our 2 favorite pitches, we wished there could be more of this kind of climbing!
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Sara following the second of the 2 "crux" pitches mid-route, a 5.8 dihedral. These were our 2 favorite pitches, we wished there could be more of this kind of climbing!
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Most of the second half of the climb involved fun 3rd to mid-5th class climbing up the arete. There were several possible variations.
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We spotted a Mountaineer party heading up to Colchuck Col. I decided to make the route look more impressive by rotating the photo....
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A piton, perhaps from the original ascent of Serpentine Arete in 1973.
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The view of Colchuck Col from our climb.
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The view south from the summit.
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The view of Colchuck (and Stuart behind) from the summit.
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Early summer snow in the Upper Enchantment Lake Basin on the descent down the back of Dragontail and down Aasgard Pass (a walk-off, although Aasgard Pass never fails to be uncomfortable on the knees).
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The last of the winter ice on Colchuck Lake.
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I can never resist taking photos of chipmunks.
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