(LIST OF CLIMBS + 2 "TRIP REPORTS")
Category: Wyoming
Elev: ~8,200 ft
Rock Type: Granite
 
2014, 2020
 

VEDAUWOO Climbing


Vedauwoo is a climbing mecca located 10 miles from Laramie. The area is a sea of outcrops of 1.4-billion-year-old Sherman granite. The outcrops have been sculpted into rounded, fissured domes by eons of weathering and the rock has a pinkish hue, streaked with brightly colored lichen. The outcrops are full of crack climbs. Many of these cracks are wide, and Vedauwoo has earned the reputation for some of the most physically demanding offwidths in North America. Although climbers come from far and wide to climb these offwidths, a good mix of other types of climbing can be found here as well. 

The Nautilus, just one of many rock formations at the Voo.

Big cams, big bros, and kneepads. (Awesome photo taken on lead by my climbing partner MC).

The first time I climbed in Vedauwoo was in August 2014, for two afternoons during which we climbed 6 routes, on the drive between Devil's Tower in Wyoming and Rocky Mountain National Park in Colorado. I only got a flavor for the climbing on this quick trip, but I knew someday I would come back. In June 2019, I moved to Boulder, and Vedauwoo was only 2.5 hours drive away. I finally managed to get to the Voo the following spring and summer, for a couple of more short teaser trips. I will be back for more.

Since Vedauwoo is only about 2.5 hours from Boulder, I just keep a list of the climbs I've done there (on this page). Below the list, I've also included my original trip report from my first major trip to the area (made to establish this page on my website), and below that I have photos from subsequent random days of cragging at Vedauwoo.



ON THIS PAGE:

LINK
List of climbs I've done at Vedauwoo
2014 trip report (1st trip to Vedauwoo: 2 afternoons)
AUG
3-4
2014

 TR #: 172b
2020 trip report (2nd trip to Vedauwoo: 1 more day)
MAY
6
2020

   TR #: 402
Other random photos from cragging at Vedauwoo     



(Still quite short)List of climbs I've done at Vedauwoo

(Alphabetical order)
CLIMB DIFFICULTY

    =multi-pitch
AREA

Color-coded:
   =Holdout
   =Holy Saturday
   =Nautilus
   =Turtle Rock
   =Vally Massif
DATE CLIMBED

Color-coded: 
Spring
Summer
Fall
Winter
Beefeater 5.10b Holdout Aug 3, 2014
Currey's Diagonal 5.10 Holdout Aug 3, 2014
Flake 5.8 Holy Saturday July 26, 2020
Baalbek (Pitch 1) 5.9 Nautilus May 6, 2020
Deception 5.8 Nautilus Aug 4, 2014
Deep Throat 5.10a Nautilus May 6, 2020
Grand Traverse, The 5.10c Nautilus Aug 4, 2014
Left Torpedo Tube 5.10 Nautilus May 6, 2020
Lower Slot Right 5.8 Nautilus May 6, 2020
Max Factor 5.11c Nautilus Aug 4, 2014
Upper Slot Right 5.7+ Nautilus May 6, 2020
Arretez Maintenant (aka Old Easy Arete) 5.9 Turtle Rock - Old Easy - MRC Left July 25, 2020
Dollywood 5.10 Turtle Rock - Main Area - Coke Bottle July 25, 2020
Fallout 5.9 Turtle Rock - Main Area - Fall Wall Aug 3, 2014,
July 25, 2020
Horn's Mother (Pitch 1) 5.11a Turtle Rock - Main Area - Coke Bottle July 25, 2020
MRC Direct 5.9, 2p Turtle Rock - Old Easy - MRC Left July 25, 2020
Mystic Psychosis 5.8 Turtle Rock - Main Area - Fall Wall July 25, 2020
Neon Cowboy 5.9+ Turtle Rock - Main Area - Fall Wall July 25, 2020
Satterfield's Crack 5.8, 2p Turtle Rock - Main Area - Walt's Wall July 25, 2020
Straight Edge 5.9+ Turtle Rock - Old Easy - MRC Left July 25, 2020
Back Seat Driver 5.12a Vally Massif July 26, 2020
Hammer (Pitch 1) 5.8+ Vally Massif July 26, 2020
Host (Pitches 1&2) 5.7, 2p Vally Massif July 26, 2020
King of Coney Island 5.10 Vally Massif July 26, 2020
Tool or Die 5.9 Vally Massif July 26, 2020
Zipper 5.8, 2p Vally Massif July 26, 2020


Photos

Color coded by area:
    =Holdout        =Nautilus        =Turtle Rock (Coke Bottle, Fall Wall, Old Easy, Walt's Wall)

FIRST TRIP TO VEDAUWOO

AUGUST 3-4, 2014
w/ Eric Schweitzer
 I originally posted the following photos on my Devil's Tower trip report, but added them here when I created this Vedauwoo page in 2020. These photos were taken during a couple of afternoons in Vedauwoo, where we stopped briefly on the drive from Devil's Tower to Rocky Mountain National Park.
1. "Warning: Rock climbing and bouldering are extremely dangerous activities that can result in broken bones, paralysis, permanent injury, and even death...."
2. Ah...granite.
 
3. Eric "climbing" a Vedauwoo 11a classic offwidth called Horn's Mother on the Coke Bottle. He did start to lead it but backed off. 11a is stiff at Vedauwoo!
4. We climbed Currey's Diagonal, a popular 10b diagonal crack on the Holdout formation.
 

5. We also climbed Beefeater, a popular 10b hand crack on the Holdout formation.  
6. A precarious boulder on top of the Holdout formation. I would guess these formed when erosion left remnants of the upper layers as boulders.
7. A rock mushroom near the Nautilus formation.
 
8. We toproped Max Factor (11c) at Nautilus. I loved this route (stellar textured finger crack!) and did it three times.
9. A thundershower hit just after noon. Eric wanted a couple of rest days and the weather didn't look great, so we planned to meet up in Estes Park just outside of Rocky Mountain National Park a few days later.



Color coded by area:
   =Nautilus
SECOND TRIP TO VEDAUWOO

MAY 6, 2020
w/ MC
Finally, I returned to Vedauwoo! The plan was for 2 days but the second day we bailed due to high winds (NOAA was saying gusts as high as 60mph by mid-day, and it was indeed windy even by 6am). But we got in a good session on the first day. I will definitely be back as soon as I can.

10. MC had just acquired the new (as of May 2020) BD #7 and #8 cams.
11. Our first route was a nice 2-pitch warm-up called Lower Slot Right to Upper Slot Right on the Nautilus.
12. The #7 was the perfect fit for Lower Slot Right.
13. Looking down Lower Slot Right.
14. MC starting up Upper Slot Right, which starts just above Lower Slot Right.
15. We nabbed a quick toprope on Deep Throat on rappel.
16. MC higher up in Deep Throat. More of a chimney than an offwidth. Fun and fairly cruiser for 10a at the Voo.
17. Our next objective: Left Torpedo Tube on the far end of the Nautilus.
18. MC gearing up for Left Torpeo Tube, covid style.
19. Same pose, taken with MC's phone. I like the wider angle the phone allows.
20. MC starting up Left Torpedo Tube.
21. The #8 was handy in Left Torpedo Tube. These cams are getting some use already! Photo taken by MC on lead.
22. Next we climbed an enjoyable 5.9 non-offwidth around the corner called Baalbek.
23. Steph leading Baalbek. Photo taken by MC.
24. A view on the empty campground. Usually it would be open by now but it was closed due to the covid issue.
25. Sometimes it ends up just too windy to climb....
Color coded by area:
   =Holy Saturday        =Turtle Rock (Coke Bottle, Fall Wall, Old Easy, Walt's Wall)        =Vally Massif
JULY 25-26, 2020
w/ Nate Arganbright
Weather was not looking great in the RMNP, so Nate and I headed to Vedauwoo for the weekend. It was an enjoyable weekend and we climbed about 20 pitches over the course of two days.

26. A golden summer evening at the Vedauwoo campground.
27. Studying for prelims by the campfire.
28. View of Old  Easy, where we started off the day with a nice 4-pitch link-up of Arretez Maintenant + MRC Direct + Straight Edge.
29. Nate leading off Arretez Maintenant on Old Easy.
30. Pitch 1 of MRC Direct on Old Easy.
31. Looking up Pitch 2 of MRC Direct on Old Easy.
32. Nate leading off Pitch 2 of MRC Direct on Old Easy.
33. Higher on Pitch 2 of MRC Direct on Old Easy.
34.  Straight Edge on Old Easy.
35. View of campground from above.
36. Nate leading Dollywod on Coke Bottle.
37. Fallout on Coke Bottle.
38. Looking up Neon Cowboy on Coke Bottle. The crack is a bit grassy but this route climbs well.
39. At the first bolt on Mystic Psychosis on Fall Wall.
40. Fireweed.
44. Looking up Pitch 1 of Satterfield's Crack on Walt's Wall.
41. Looking up Pitch 2 of Satterfield's Crack on Walt's Wall.
42. Nate lading Pitch 2 of Satterfield's Crack  on Walt's Wall.
43. The strenuous start of Horn's Mother (Pitch 1) on Coke Bottle.
45. Another nice campfire (and dinner).
46. Passing by Holy Saturday on the way to Valley Massif. We ended the day with a route here.
47. Pitch 1 of Zipper on Valley Massif.
48. Pitch 1 of Zipper on Valley Massif.
49. Pitch 2 of Zipper on Valley Massif.
50. Traversing below a summit block to the rap anchors on Valley Massif.
51. Pitch 1 of Hammer on Valley Massif.
52. Tool or Die on Valley Massif. A nice variation to Pitch 2 of Hammer (wide crack on left).
53. Toproping the 5.12 Back Seat Driver on Valley Massif.
54. Pitch 2 of Host on Valley Massif.
55. King of Coney Island on Valley Massif.
56. Spring beauty flower.
57. Looking down from the top of Flake on Holy Saturday.
58. Climbing Flake on Holy Saturday.
59. Necessary pit stop on the drive home for corn nuts and Dr. Pepper.